Sweet Nothings Crochet: AMAIRA's SHELLED DRESS WITH A MATCHING BELT

AMAIRA's SHELLED DRESS WITH A MATCHING BELT

I love it when I get a request to make a new design and all I’m given is a colour – and then told “go ahead and make something new and beautiful”. Here’s what’s new and beautiful with this creation that I’m making for a 18 – 24m baby girl. Thank you for joining me on this new journey of creation.

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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ about 1.5 skeins each of 2 colours of our lovely Indian Oswal acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; buttons; press buttons ; satin ribbon ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette ; beads n more

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Size made : For a 18 - 24 month old

You can make this to any size. Size only given for yarn estimation.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Starting slip knot :  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :   https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ?  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch :  https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc :  https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made.
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog :   Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/
or  https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/
and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch   st(s) : Stitch(es)
hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over ch : Chain
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together

Instructions

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

And as we’re making requests, may I request you to link my blog when you make your project. I feel horrid saying this, but there are many who have used the patterns freely given here, and not given any credit to the blog that has given them this pattern. Come on guys.. it ain’t that much work to give credit and link the blog now, is it?

It’s worse when someone says “taken this from …(where ever they’ve taken the pattern from.. not just my blog I mean)” and not taking the trouble of giving the proper link(s).

You got a free pattern .. Pay It Forward ! Share away and add my blog link

I do not claim this to be my pattern , but here are my pattern notes as I make my own original project

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

Now there is a link for a set of sizing / measurement charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference. I always suggest that if you’re making this specifically for someone you know, try and get a well-fitted dress / outfit of that child.

Part I : Yoke

(Work 2 pieces)

For the yoke, we will work two pieces, one each for the front and back.
For the back the pattern is exactly the same, but you will need to divide for the button placket.

For this, all you will do is mark the centre of the back, place a marker, and then work back and forth from the armhole to this marker for the part of the yoke that you’ve decided to place buttons on. Simple enough, right – so let’s start.

Start Row 1 : with fsc in multiples of 7 + 3 for the across chest/waist of the child you are making this for. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st 3 fsc ;

*sk next fsc, 2 dc each in the next 2 dc ;

sk next fsc, dc in the next 3 fsc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

In the following row, we’ll work our post stitches.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Back Post Double Crochet : bpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpdc at https://youtu.be/l9Nt3miOs3s

In the following row, we will also work in a Shell stitch (Shell St).

Our Shell stitch is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-1 sp.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

bpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*sk next 2 dc, Shell stitch in the sp between the dc’s ;

sk next 2 dc (dc in the next dc ; bpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc)* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

In the following row onwards, we will work in a Shell stitch in the ch-1 sp of the earlier Shell St. So instructions will just read “Shell st in Shell st”, and that automatically means in that ch-1 sp.

We will be alternating with back post and front post stitches such that you get a neat continuous line in your pattern. So in each bpdc of the earlier row, you will work a fpdc ; and in each fpdc of the earlier row, you will work in a bpdc.

However, when I write the instructions, I will say work a fpdc in a dc, or a bpdc in a dc.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

fpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*Shell St in the next Shell St ;

sk next 2 dc (dc in the next dc ; fpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc)* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

bpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;

* Shell St in the next Shell St ;

sk next 2 dc (dc in the next dc ; bpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc)* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

You have, I am sure, figured out the pattern repeat.

Rep Rows 4 & 5 till your yoke / bodice is at the armhole level.

As we are all working different sizes for the dress, I will write a generalised set of instructions for armhole and neckline decreases. It does not matter whether you are working a front or a back post, as long as you remember that you need to alternate them, and keep the pattern going. So for convenience, I will just write, work a “post stitch” and you work it according to the row you’re working on.

Part 2 : Armhole decrease ideas

sl-st in the 1^st 5 dc (i.e 1^st 3 dc plus 2 dc of the 1^st Shell stitch) ;

2 dc in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*(dc in the next dc ; work a post stitch in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;

Shell St in the next Shell St* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-1 sp ;

2 dc in that last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Next row : 2 dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*(dc in the next dc ; work a post stitch in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;

Shell St in the next Shell St* ;

rep *to* till the 2 dc ;

dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

Rep this row till you reach the neckline.

Part 3 : Neckline decrease ideas

Fold your work in half and decide the two side extremes of your neckline.

Place markers at those points.

Work in pattern from one armhole to the 1^st marker and then work back to the armhole.

Continue in pattern till you reach the shoulder level. Fasten off and weave in ends.

You will then re-attach your yarn at the 2^nd marker, and work from the 2^nd marker till the armhole, back and forth, till you reach the shoulder level again.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

You have completed the front of your work.

Repeat all instructions for the back.

Remember though, that as you’re working in a button placket, you will split your work near the back neck, to accommodate the button placket.

Complete the back, and I suggest you join the shoulders and sides (under armhole) portions, so that we can work in rounds for the skirt portion of our dress.

Whipstitch to join : at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Part 4 : Skirt part of dress

For this part of the project, we will be working in rounds.

We will go back to that 1^st fsc round and work off that round

Our stitch count is in multiples of 7

so you could either calculate /add/subtract to get multiples of 7 (we started with 7 + 3 for yoke). As this is the skirt portion, I'd say add, so that you can get a better flare to the dress.

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st fsc ;

*ch 5, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;

ch 5, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Ensure you have an even number of ch-5 sps

Round 2 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp , sc in the same ch-5 sp ;

*8 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 3 : sl-st in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 4 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp);

rep (to) 3 times ;

sk next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 5 : sk the 1^st ch-3 sp , sl-st and sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*ch 5 ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 5, sk next two ch-3 sps, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 6 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp , 9 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;

sc in the next ch-5 sp

*9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 7 : sl-st in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 8 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp);

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 1, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 9 : sk the 1^st ch-3 sp , sl-st and sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*ch 5 ; sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 10 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp , 9 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;

*sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 5, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 11 : sl-st in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

sk next dc, [dc ; ch 1, dc] in the next ch-5 sp ;

sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 12 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp);

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 3, sk next 4 dc & ch-1 sp, sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 13 : sk the 1^st ch-3 sp , sl-st and sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*ch 5 ; sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 4 , sk next ch-3 sp, (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp * ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 14 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp , 9 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;

*sc in the next ch-4 sp ;

(hdc ; 2 dc ; hdc) all in the next ch-1 sp ;

sc in the next ch-4 sp ; 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all ;

rep (to) once and around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 15 : sl-st in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

[sk next dc & hdc, dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the next dc] ;

sk next hdc & dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 16 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

[ch 4, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-1 sp]* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 17 : sk the 1^st ch-3 sp , sl-st and sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*ch 5 ; sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

[ch 5 , sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-4 sp ;

ch 2, dc in the next ch-4 sp] ;

ch 5, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 18 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp , 9 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;

*sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(hdc ; 3 dc ; hdc) all in the next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

9 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all ;

rep (to) once and around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 19 : sl-st in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

{sk next hdc, dc in the next dc ;

[ch 2, dc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] once} ;

sk next hdc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

rep {to} once and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 20 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

[sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 sp] ;

sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 21 : sk the 1^st ch-3 sp , sl-st and sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

*ch 5 ; sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

[ch 5 , sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 sp] ;

ch 5, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp*;

rep *to* all around ;

rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 22 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp , 9 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;

*6 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 23 : sl-st in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 5 times ;

{sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 2 times}* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

This is as far as I am working as I have the length needed.

IF you need more length, then check out the chart and work your repeats. Basically, as you may have noticed, we’re working a similar pattern for the past several rounds. So you could work pattern rounds 16 – 19 or 20 – 23 if you’d like.. or see what the chart has from Round 24 on.

As the following round is my last one, I am going to work in a decorative picot. I am going to use the ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hk).

Check out “how to work a picot” in the stitches used information given above.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video. https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

In the next round, we will work our decorative picot in the ch-sps all around.

Round 24 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

sc + picot in the same ch-1 sp ;

(sc + picot in the next ch-1 sp) in the next ch-1 sp

and in each ch-1 sp all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 5 : Sleeves

For this part of the project, we will be, once again, working in rounds.

Our pattern repeat stitch count is 6 ; just so we can get it neat and even.

Attach your yarn at the armhole.

Round 1 : sc all around your armhole opening evenly, and in multiples of 7.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st fsc ;

*ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next 3 sc, sc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Ensure you have an even number of ch-5 sps

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-3 sp , 7 dc in the same ch-4 sp ;

*sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 3 : sl-st in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 4 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) 2 times ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat for the second armhole as well.

Part 6 : Neckline finish

I quite like the wavy scallop-like edge of the neckline, so I have just worked an sc in each st all around (as evenly as you can where along the vertical part of the neck) and ensured that the back placket is neat and finished as well. If you are working in button holes, here is your chance to work in the holes in a separate button placket. Fasten off and weave in ends.

And though there are quite a few elements to this creation, I am sure you will agree that this is a job really well done.

Part 7 : Belt

In keeping with the pattern of the skirt portion, I’ve designed this belt to match this dress perfectly.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 7 + 2

What I have done is only work the front portion in this pattern, and attach satin lace for the back – but you can work it all around if you so feel like it – as long as you get the stitch count right.

So what we will do here is work a fsc chain, and then work the pattern first on one side, and then swing around and work the same pattern on the other side of the same fsc chain.

Start with fsc in multiples of 7 + 2

Row 1 : sc in the 1^st fsc ;

*ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;

ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn

Ensure you have an uneven number of ch-3 sps

Row 2 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-3 sp , sc in the same ch-3 sp ;

*8 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;

rep *to* till end (ending with 8 dc in the last ch-sp). Turn

Row 3 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 2, sc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 6 times

*sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;

rep (to) 6 times* ;

rep *to* till end.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

You have finished one side of your belt. You could well stop at this point as this looks really lovely too. There is a lovely line of holes, and you can thread in a satin ribbon through that and be done with it.

If you decide to continue with the second side, then you will re-attach your yarn at the other side (or rather under side) of the fsc chain, and rep Rows 1 – 3 for this side as well.

Fasten off and weave in ends. If you’ve worked half a belt (i.e just for the front portion), then pass a satin ribbon through the ready-made holes and stitch the scallops down (for firmness) and you have a lovely belt ready to go.

Have a fun creative time.

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