Sunday 30 November 2014

WICKER SCARF

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet patterns, free wicker scarf basket weave pattern, this blog has a video tutorial and photo tutorial for stitch explanation,

WICKER SCARF

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Here I am back again, this time with a really beautiful and tried and tested pattern - the basket weave stitch.  
I just love this pattern.. amazing how a mix ' n match of a few stitches gives you this delightful pattern.. and with the upcoming festive season and so many gifts to go out.. why not make one filled with love and hand made for all those special people in your life.  

I was traveling and one of my co-passengers was struggling with the usual 'what-shall-I-give' conundrum and I gave her a few ideas.. and thought I'd post this out for her and all of us who are similarly stuck in the gifting game.  

This scarf has been made in one colour, but it'll look just superb in ombre - or a range of colours that slowly build up.  

I've also added tassels at the end - so if you're combining colours through the scarf, throw a splash of colour there as well, and see the face of the person you gift this to, light up. 
Have fun and I hope you enjoy this project as well.

You could make this into a cowl too.  After you have reached the length (or circumference in the case of an infinity cowl), just join the two ends of your scarf - and Voila! Infinity scarf made!

Oh and before you go off.. yarn information.  I've used a lovely light fingering weight yarn, but this pattern is so gorgeous, and if weather allows you to work with thicker yarns, this pattern works beautifully with fingering, sport weight and DK weight yarns as well.  The gauge will not match, but that doesn't really matter, as the pattern will still look superb!

Yarn used : Oswal 3 ply acrylic (or light fingering weight yarn) with a 4 mm hook (G ; US 6) crochet hook
This yarn is not specific for this pattern.  You can use any yarn with a suitable hook for this creation, and make it to any size you want.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros ; Red rose metallic or  unbranded  knitting cotton as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Skill Level : Advanced beginner
Gauge : Not important as a different  yarn will give you a different gauge, but I have a gauge of 2 rows in pattern and 6 sts (3 fpdc + 3 bpdc) = 1”. 

Abbreviations used : (Pattern uses US terminology)
sc : Single Crochet
dc : Double Crochet              sk : skip
st : stitch                                sp : space
ch : chain                               rep : repeat
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet  
fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet                                           
bpdc : Back Post Double Crochet


Stitches used : 
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY



Instructions : Using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.  For your convenience, I've added some links just before the stitch is to be used as well.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project. 

As  mentioned before, you can use any yarn with a suitable hook and make this to any size you want.  All you need to do is figure out the stitch count and ensure you work in multiples thereof.
You can leave the ends of your project unattached and get a scarf or wrap or you join the ends and get an infinity cowl.  
If you are making this into a scarf, add a few dangling long tassels at the end and it will not only add to the length, but also make it look light and lacy.

This pattern works with a combination of post stitches. 
Stitch explanation and photo tutorial for fpdc and bpdc at the end of this blog.  

Come along then.. let's create...  

Our stitch count is in multiples of 4

As I have started with 28 sts, I will give a stitch count accordingly.  
Do note though that you do not need to stay with 28 sts - just work in the stitch count given.

In case the video does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/iHu5TP-lOuM

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA  


Start with fsc  in multiples of 4 for the width needed for your project. Turn.  
(I started with 28 fsc)

If you are unable to work fsc, start with as many chain needed for the width of your project in multiples of 4 and then add 2.  
You will then work your 1st dc in the 3rd ch from hk.  
At the end of your first row, please check that you have the stitch count needed.  
I urge you to try the fsc start though.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 1 : dc in each fsc till end.  (28 dc in my case). Turn.

We will now start our basket weave pattern.  
We use post stitches from here on.  

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. 
How to work the fpdc :  yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete 
Or view the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Back Post Double Crochet : bpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.  Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpdc at https://youtu.be/l9Nt3miOs3s

Row 2 :  dc in the 1st dc ;  fpdc into next 3 dc , 
*bpdc into next 4 dc, fpdc in next 4 dc* ; 
rep *to* till the last 4 sts ; 
fpdc in last 3 dc ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.
(4 sets of fpdc, 3 sets of bpdc - if using start of 28 sts)

Row 3 :  dc in the 1st dc ;  bpdc in next 3 dc, 
*fpdc in next 4 dc, bpdc in next 4 dc* ; 
rep *to* till the last 4 sts ;  
 bpdc in last 3 dc ; dc in the last dc. 
(4 sets of bpdc, 3 sets of fpdc - if using start of 28 sts)

Row 4 : Repeat Row 3

Row 5 : Repeat Row 2


Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet patterns, free crochet scarf pattern, free crochet wicker scarf pattern, free crochet basket weave pattern
Stitch detail

Repeat Row 2 to Row 5 till your desired length.   

The above pattern will slowly emerge. 
End with Row 5.  
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Tassels : Optional, but tassels will look lovely with this particular scarf.  

In case the video does not come on, please go to https://youtu.be/Ct84H8iBa9s

.... and in case you want o make a small pattern with the tassels, go to   https://youtu.be/Pt5BMW_OlAg

Block per your yarn instructions and wear with pride


Photo tutorial for Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
Instructions : Yarn over hook, insert hook into the front of your stitch (from front to behind the stitch and then come  to the front of your work again, such that  the ‘post’ is over your hook, aRow the front of your hook) - Pic 1, yarn over, pull through (3 loops on hook), bringing stitch up (to the height of stitch on the Row you are working on),  yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops remaining on hook) – Pic 2, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops to complete stitch.  
One fpdc complete. Pic 3



Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, photo tutorial for front post stitch,

Photo tutorial for Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)

Instructions : Yarn over hook, insert hook into the back of your stitch (from back to front of the stitch in the lower row, and the ‘post’ is over your hook, a row the back), yarn over, pull through (3 loops on hook), bringing stitch up (to the height of stitch on the row you are working on),  yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops remaining on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops to complete stitch.  One bpdc complete. 


Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, photo tutorial for back post stitch,

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Friday 21 November 2014

DIAGONAL SHELLED VEST

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet vest pattern,

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet vest pattern, photos of the shelled vest

DIAGONAL SHELLED VEST

Diagonals.. and shells.. what a superb combination! How can one resist this, right?  So I didn’t even bother resisting!  When this pattern dropped onto my lap last week, I just knew it was a ‘to-be-done’ pattern!! So here we are…  

Thank you for joining me.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”.  Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.

Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.


All my blogs can be printed.  Find the printer friendly (green) link at the bottom of this blog.  You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.

Remember that you only print if absolutely essential.  Save paper – Save Our Earth. 


Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation. 

Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.


To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon.  While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well. 

This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me.  Cheers.


Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation. 
Cheers.  Enjoy 

Materials used : Stylecraft Baby 4-ply yarn  ~ 200 gms , with a 4 mm crochet hook
For Indian yarn users : Stylecraft Baby 4-ply yarn is somewhat similar to our Vardhaman Baby soft or Vardhaman Millenium.  

This yarn is not specific for this pattern.  You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make it to any size.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros ; Red rose metallic or   unbranded  knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

Size made : 32-34”
Gauge : One shell (across) = 0.7” x (high) = 0.5”
The size and gauge are only given for yarn estimation.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced
The stitches used are easy enough but there are calculations and mirroring that need skill.

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY 


Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                         sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                sp : Space                                    
sl-st : Slip stitch                      ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                      hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                        trc : Treble Crochet                                     
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
fpsc : Front Post Single Crochet                    
trc 3-tog : Treble Crochet 3-together              
trc 2-tog : Treble Crochet 2-together

                                   
Instruction information Using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all rows with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.
Please also check the top of this blog for neat video tutorials of all stitches used in today’s pattern sheet.  For your convenience, video tutorials are also added right where we will use them.
Please go through the full instruction sheet before you start, so you get an idea of what we’re doing.  Cheers.

This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. 

This pattern starts at the waist and calculating the width (around waist / chest) measurements, you work all the way up to the armholes.  
There you decrease for the armholes and neckline and voila! You’re done!  

The back portion is simpler as the pattern is only on the front!  

Now while all this sound pretty simple, there are a few complications thrown into the mix.. just to jazz it up and the project .. so be ready for a bit of a roller coaster ride. It’ll totally be worth it!

PART 1 : FRONT  (Make two)
We start with the left front.  
To make the right front, you will work the mirror image of this pattern.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA  

The stitch count is in multiples of 15 + 4

Start with 34 fsc  in multiples of 15 + 4 for half the front measurement.

Note : The round measurement is divided by 4 to get the half front measure, and this is a cm or inch measurement.  You will then ensure that you get this measurement by working the stitch count given.

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps.  One sc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; 
*ch 3, sk 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Turn.

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Front post single crochet : fpsc :  Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch on the row below.  Here is an easy video tutorial for the fpsc at https://youtu.be/OQa8YLpkdXs

Row 3 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) twice* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

So we’ve finished our first row of shells.  
Our next row of shells will move one ch-3 sp.  
So let’s see how we get that done.

 Row 4 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) twice* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 5 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 7 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 8 : dc in the 1st sc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ending with the 5 dc ; dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 9 : sc in the 1st dc ; fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc  ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 10 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 11 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

So you’ve probably now figured how our shells are moving diagonally.  
The shells are separated by three ch-3 sps, and every fourth row there’ll be one added from the end.  
I’ll take you through a few more rows and then we can go off and work it till our armholes.

Row 12 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 13 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) 3 times* ; 
rep from *to* till end ; 
ch 1, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 14 : dc in the 1st sc ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Row 15 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*rep (to) once ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) 2 times* ; 
rep from *to* till end ;  
ending with one rep of (to) and then the last ch 3 and sc in the last dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 6 – 15 till your project reaches length needed till armhole ; ending with a Row 6.

I started my armhole decreases after two repeats, with length of ~ 14.5”.  

As you’ll see from pattern, it is really simple now.. you just continue with the shelled patterns till completion, but do not start any new shells .. cool, right? 
What a smart designer .. hat’s off!!


PART 2 : ARMHOLES
Armhole decrease row 1 : 
[sc in 1st sc ; sk ch-1 sp, sc in next sc ; 
2 sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp] ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
rep (to) 3 times ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the last dc. Turn.
(This is part of Row 7)

Armhole decrease row 2 : 
dc in the 1st sc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ;  
2 sc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
(This is part of Row 8)

Armhole decrease row 3 :
 sl st in 1st 2 sc ; sc in next ch-3 sp ; sc in next sc ; 
ch 1, fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc  ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
sc in the last dc. Turn.
(This is part of Row 9)

Armhole decrease row 4 : 
dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Armhole row 4 : 
sc in the 1st dc ; ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Armhole row 5 : 
dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Armhole row 6 : 
sc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) 3 times.  Turn.

Armhole row 7 : 
dc in the 1st sc ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, sk next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 3, sk next sc , dc in the last sc. Turn.

Armhole row 8 : 
sc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;  
rep (to) once ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc, fpsc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 3 , sc in the last dc. Turn.

Armhole row 9 : (Neckline decrease row) : 
sc in the 1st sc ; 2 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc ; 
ch 1, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 3, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Armhole row 10 : 
sc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 3 , sk next sc,  fpsc in the next dc ; 
sc in the last dc. Turn.

Armhole row 11 : dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) twice ; 
ch 3, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Great so we’re done with our shelled patterns and diagonals.. from  now on till the shoulder line, we’re just going to do our ch-3 patterns.. and we’re almost done with one part of your vest !! 
Yaay.. that was quick, was it not? 

Next row : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 1, sc in last dc. Turn.

Next row : dc in the 1st  sc ; ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next ch-3 sp) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 3, sc in last dc.

Rep the last 2 rows till your project is of the right length – your armholes are the right size and the neckline fits too.

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet vest pattern, chart for the body pattern of shelled vest,

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.

Work a mirror image of this front for the the right hand side of your work.

The back is really easy. 
It’s all ch-3 sps all through. 

Tip : If you are planning on using a border (as I have) along the front plackets, then do this border first, and recalculate the width of the front before starting on the back. 
I say this, as the placket adds to the width of your project.   


PART 3 : BACK
(Make one)

Start with double the number of fsc for the front using the same multiples count.  
I say "double the number" as we had two front pieces and only one back - so basically  you are working with half waist measure here.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; 
*ch 3, sk 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 1, sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 1, dc in last sc.  Turn.

Row 3 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, sc in last dc.  Turn

Rep Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the armhole point for the front.  

Follow the decrease for the armhole as for front.  
The designer has not reduced anything along the neckline, but if you so decide, around the last 2 rows from end, you could divide your work in half, count off the a few ch-3 sps evenly from centre and not work on them – so you get a little bit of a neckline along the back. 

Fasten off.  Weave in ends.


BORDER 
There are two borders in this pattern.  

The simple one that goes around the armholes and neckline and down the front placket is a hdc or dc evenly spread all around.  
You would, of course, first join your sides and shoulder blades and then work the hdc or dc around the armhole and neckline.
The 2nd border is a little floral border across the bottom and I give you instructions for the same – go ahead and have fun with that 


PART 4 : FLORAL BORDER :
For this border we use the double treble stitch.

Double Triple Crochet : dtrc :  wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times.  One trc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U

So we make our floral border and then we attach it onto our vest.  
If you decide (as I have) to attach it along the placket of your vest, may I suggest that you first make a row of sc all along the front placket(s) of your vest, in multiples of 10 (which is our motif pattern repeat).  

If you are working this along the base of the vest, we already have our fsc row there – so we can figure out how to get that to work for us later. 

Remember the counts there were not 10’s.. so there may be a small re-calculation required.

For the motif, the designer has used a double treble as well as the double treble together.
We have three double trebles worked together to form one double treble-tog. 
Just for the record, I think a treble stitch here would work just as well. 
My border with the treble stitch is about 2.5" wide (measured across diameter of motif)

The designer has made this floral motif in a one piece – 
so no joints and attachments ! Yaay!  
But the explanation is a bit complicated. 
The chart below should help. 
It’s not in English.. but you can see 1st, 2nd and 3rd.. so those are our row counts.

Our stitch repeat here is in multiples of 10.  

So let’s start making a long chain in multiples of 10 (to fit the length/width you wish to use your border along).

So before we head off.. quick explanation of how we’re achieving the first half of our flower. 

In Row 1, we’re going to make four petals of our flower all in one chain ; 
then move onto the next four petals of the next flower (which will once again all be in the same ch). Photos below.

Row 2 completes the last 2 petals of our flower.

So please visualize this before you start – it’ll make it that much simpler to understand.  You can try the chainless start for the trc or work chs to start.
In case you're trying the chainless start, you will start with trc 3-tog in the 5th ch for Row 1.

Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0  

Triple / Treble crochet 2-tog : trc 2-tog :  [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; 
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 3 times.  One trc 2-tog made. 
This video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0y4BbgDTbs shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease 
And this video shows you how to use it a decorative stitch. 

Triple / Treble crochet 3-tog : trc 3-tog :   Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/O8HM5j8ZXHw 

Row 1 : sk the 1st 4 ch, trc 2-tog tog in the 5th ch 
{so the ch 4 + trc 2-tog = 1 trc 3-tog} ; 
(ch 5, trc 3-tog in same 5th ch) ;  
rep (to) once ;   
[ch 5, trc 2-tog  in the same 5th ch and then sk 4 ch and sl-st in the next ch] ;
*sk next 4 ch, trc 2-tog in the next ch ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; 
rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Turn. 

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, photo 1 for how to work the border pattern,

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, photo 2 for how to work the border pattern,

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, photo 3 for how to work the border pattern,

Now in this row, we’re going to complete the last 2 petals of our flower.  
You will notice that there is a really clear ‘centre’ to our flower.  
It is the ch where all your trc-togs have come in.  
So that is the centre that we will use for the last 2 petals.  
The ‘corner’ referred to will be the end of the flower, or the sc that joins 2 flowers together.  
Right, so moving on..

Row 2 : *ch 3, trc 3-tog in the centre of the flower ; 
ch 5, trc 3-tog in the centre of same flower ; 
ch 3, sc in the next sc* 
(which is the corner of this flower and the next) ; 
rep from *to* all the way to the end.  Turn.

Our last row is tricky as we’re going to join the long row of flowers onto the main work.   
First off, check that the right side of the flowers face the right side of your work.  
Now we’re going to attach the flower with sc’s along the front plackets of your work. 

There is no way to explain how to get this done.. just work your sc’s evenly along the edge of your vest.  
Once again, please look at the chart below as you follow the written instructions.


Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, chart for the border pattern,

Row 3 :   trc in the 1st st ; 
5 sc along the border of your vest ; 
sk 1st ch-3 sp and trc 3-tog, sc in the next ch-5 sp (of floral border) ; 
5 sc along the border your vest ; 
sk next trc 3-tog and ch-3 sp, trc in the next sc ;
*5 sc along the border of your vest ; 
sk next ch-3 sp and trc 3-tog, sc in the next ch-5 sp (of floral border) ; 
5 sc along the border your vest ; 
sk next trc 3-tog and ch-3 sp, trc in the next sc* ; 
rep from *to* till end. 

One side border done. 
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Rep this border along the other front placket and/or the bottom of the vest as well.

If want to do it along the bottom of the vest though, you will need to do the back first, join the sides and then do one continuous border along the bottom.  

Once you’re all done, block as per yarn instructions and wear your creation.

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Have a great day and see you soon. 

Here are some of my other creations.  









































and here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..



















































































and a doll’s top..


I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  


























































For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.







 























































..and some belts..







and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..







.. and some neckwear
















































































https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf