Monday, 29 June 2015

CATHERINE WHEELS DRESS

CATHERINE WHEELS DRESS

I am not sure how many times I’ll say this .. but I am totally in awe of the number of free charts freely being shared on the internet.  I also love that I have the time and yarn to just indulge myself every time something excites me.
Black and white - classic combination.. and wow, what a lovely dress this is!


Inspired by this photo, and this link http://www.stranamam.ru/post/4841008/, these are my notes as I work on this brilliant piece.


Difficulty level : Intermediate to advanced level
Now while the actual motif is an easy difficulty level, the joining and figuring out how many are required etc, I’d say advanced level. That said, it’s a beautiful pattern, so do come along and let’s work this one together too.

Materials used : 3-ply acrylic with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
I am sure this would look just brilliant made in our local Indian knitting cottons (Anchor or Red Rose) – but I’m have the perfect combination in acrylic, so..

Size made : 34” ; Length : 37” 
Gauge : For hexagon 5.5” x 6”

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Joining motifs : Here’s a lovely way to join motifs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9b5i81Ao1U

Abbreviations used :
hk : Hook                                                                         ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                  sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)
                                                           
As we usually do, let’s look at this pattern and visualize what we’re about to create before we start.  So we are working with a lovely set of hexagonal motifs and a pretty simple 12 round design.
This creation can be made in single colour or multiple colours – so while I will indicate how many motifs I needed for my creation, please note that this is not a general rule .. as it will depend on the yarn used, gauge etc.

Start with a magic circle. 6 sc in that magic circle. Join with a sl-st into the 1st sc. 
Pull closed lightly.

Round 1 : Sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 5, sc in the next sc) ; rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 2, dc into the 1st sc.
(This ensures you’re back in the centre of that last ch-5 sp)

Round 2 : Sc in the 1st st (which is the centre of that 1st ch-5 sp) ; 
(ch 2, 2 sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : Sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 2, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next 2 sc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-2 sp , sc in the next sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : Sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next 3 sc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 sp , sc in the next 2 sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : Sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 4 sc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp , sc in the next 3 sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : Sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 5 sc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp , sc in the next 4 sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : Sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 6 sc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp , sc in the next 5 sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : Sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; sc in the next 7 sc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp , sc in the next 6 sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 : Sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; sc in the next 8 sc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp , sc in the next 7 sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 10 : Sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; sc in the next 9 sc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp , sc in the next 8 sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 : Sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 5, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; sc in the next 10 sc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 5, sc in the next ch-4 sp , sc in the next 9 sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 : Sc in the 1st sc ;  (ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next 11 sc) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; 
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp , sc in the next 10 sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.


This is one basic motif made. 

Now here’s where you need to make your decision and choices.  So we can either make all our motifs or then join, or we join as we go.

So, if you decide to join up as you work, then we repeat Rounds Start - 11 for all the other motifs as well but in Round 12 for each following motif, we will join up with the previous motif ; so I will just write out the following final rounds as Round 12 A for easy reference.

I prefer the ‘join-as-you-go’ method as it gives less ends to weave in and I feel it gives a better end product.  So here’s what I’ve done.  While joining the two motifs in the sc sts, I’ve held both my motifs with wrong sides facing one another and then done a sl-st through both motifs loosely.  The tension with which one joins is really important to the stretch and flatness of the finished product.  So do ensure that after you join each motif and before you fasten / weave in ends, check that your motifs are sitting flat.

  Calculations : So I’ve done three hexagons across for the chest portion, two above that for the neckline, and one each on either side for the shoulder(s).  As I’ve decided to use two colours, this is all I’m doing for the top portion of my dress. 


Round 12 A : Sc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in the earlier ch-4 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in this motif ch-4 sp , 
[ch 2, sc in the ch-5 sp of the earlier motif ; ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp of this motif ; sk 1st sc of earlier motif and sl-tog in the next 11 sc through both motifs]
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next 11 sc) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; 
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp , sc in the next 10 sc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.


Note : Remember and double check which motif you are working on after the [to].  It is pretty easy to add on a round to the wrong motif.

OK. Now here’s where the next complication starts.  So the first row of motifs need joining only along on one side , but as we grow our dress with each motif, we will need to work out how many sides we need to join ; and then we will do the above repeat [to] accordingly.



Now the final (?) confusion / question is .. how many motifs do we make and how do we decide how to join them up.  Well, using the rough sketch very sweetly provided by the designer, and using a well-fitting dress (of the person for whom this creation is intended for) as a guide, I have put the motifs down and checked as I go along.  Not really the ‘best’ guide, I’m sure, but it worked for me.
I've also added in a sketch that was a pretty good guide for figuring out how to attach the motifs and how many were needed.

I guess one could also go the regular way, and measure each motif, then calculate how many are needed to work an across chest or around bust, and then attach motifs as one goes along.


So whatever method works for you…. If you do have another way to get this done, do share – so someone else can benefit as well.

I love the way these hexagons give us the pointy edge that gives the base line of our dress this pizzazz!

Finishing  All wearables (especially) need a good finish - and for my edging, I've just one round of sc in each stitch all round the neckline, armhole and base line of our dress.  Once again, you *could* leave it as is, as each motif does have that lovely pointy edge, so enjoy this final decision and choice for your beautiful creation.

Right then.. as usual, once done, fasten off.. weave in all ends…

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.


Have a great day and see you soon.  

This is the first 'big girl dress' that I've written about, but I have a few little girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a quick dekho at some of those free patterns … here you go  J










Friday, 26 June 2015

HAADAASHA’s SHELLED DRESS

HAADAASHA’s SHELLED DRESS


A really beautiful dress that has yet again made it from my “to-do” list to the “yaay done it” list .. well, almost done it!  This dress has been specially chosen for
the lovely little Haadaasha.  Along with this cute dress, we’ll also learn how to make a lovely little rose. 

Inspired by this photo, and the link http://club.osinka.ru/



Materials used : 100% cotton (from Australia) with a 3.5 mm crochet hook

Size made : Chest : 20” ; Length 18.5”
Difficulty level : Intermediate to advanced level

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, do view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

Abbreviations used :
 fsc : Foundation single crochet                                   ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                          sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, and work from the waist up to the shoulder, and then we come back down to this start row and work down for the skirt.
Now the yoke is worked in one piece, and we work back and forth so that we work a 4 dc placket at the back for closure.
We then come back to the start fsc row and work the skirt from this row, in rounds.
The top of our yoke is a straight line (so no decreases and worries) and there’s a neat scalloped strap for the shoulders.
For the final bit, we will make a cute rose to embellish this already cute dress.. so let’s get started.

Now the oft-asked question.. howdo you calculate how many stitches to start ?  Well, for this pattern, we’ve got it super easy – we just work the measure for the round waist – and working with the pattern repeat for the waist, you work that many fsc stitches for your start row.  For the button placket, do remember to add 4 sts to the start row count.

Part I : Yoke

Start with fsc in multiples of 5 + 4 (for placket). Turn

Row 1 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; *ch 2, sk next 2 fsc, dc in next 3 fsc* ; 
rep from *to* till last 2 fsc ; dc in last 2 fsc.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the ch-2 sp *ch 2, sk next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the ch-2 sp*; rep from *to* till last 2 dc ; dc in last 2 dc.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; *ch 2, sk next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till last 2 dc ; dc in last 2 dc.  Turn.


Rep Rows 2 and 3 , ending with a Row 3 till you reach just under the armhole, and then we’ll do a quick decrease.

So the perennial question .. how does one calculate how high to go with the yoke.  Well, I usually take the easy way out and use a well-fitting dress of the person for whom this is intended as a marker, but the thumb rule is also that the yoke is just about 1/3rd of the whole dress length, for younger kids (i.e till Age 1).  For older kids, the yoke should come just under the armhole, so that the skirt portion of the dress starts just under the armhole.
And though this chart is not in English, with the above hint(s), you will get a better handle on all of this.. else, trial and error.. always the best teacher, I'd say.



So our decrease row will divide the front and back(s).  For this, we first need to decide where our armholes come in – so fold your strip / work in half, in such a way that the 2 dc ends meet (which will make that the back - See photo below) and you have an even continuous front portion, and two back halves.  
Now you can mark the two sides for the armhole and work the decrease row for that section (with marker) only.
From this row on, we will be working the front and back sections separately.


Decrease Row : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the ch-2 sp 
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the ch-2 sp*; 
rep from *to* till the corner marker ; sk the last 3 dc before the marker.  Turn.

Rep Rows 3 and 2 till your project reaches the level you wish for the neckline.  The neckline in this dress will be a straight one – so pretty simple, right?
Remember that there is a small strap that we need to make.  Instructions for this after the skirt / body of dress.

Part 2 : Body of dress
So for this portion of the dress, we go back down to the first fsc row we’ve started with, and keeping the yoke of the dress facing you, we will work the skirt portion of the dress.

We work the body or skirt portion of the dress in rounds.  So remember to join with a sl-st at the end of the round.
When working with the lower skirt portion, you could either overlap the 4 dc border / placket (for older children) or you work in a loop along one edge and add the button on the other placket edge.  If overlapping, do remember that you need to do that before you work the bottom skirt bit (i.e overlap it and then work the stitches over both plackets.  

The designer has used three colours for her skirt portion – each shell (two rounds of pattern) making one colour strip.  So while I will indicate where you need to change, you could do this beauty in one colour as well.

Our pattern repeat is 6.
So for this portion, we’re going to run a line of ch-6’s all around going through all the ch-2 sps of that first fsc row.
To start, let’s re-attach the yarn at the centre back of the dress.

Round 1 : *ch 6, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep from *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-6 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-6 sp ; (ch 1, dc) in the same ch-6 sp , rep (to) 3 times ; 
*dc in the next ch-6 sp ; rep (to) 4 times* ; 
rep from *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next 1st ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; *sc in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 3 times* ; rep from *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : If changing colours, change now.

Round 4 : sk the 1st ch-3 sp and sl-st into the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the same ch-3 sp ; (ch 1, dc) in the same ch-3 sp , rep (to) 3 times ; 
*sk next two ch-3 sps , dc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) 4 times* ; 
rep from *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ; (ch 3, sc in the next 1st ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; *sc in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 3 times* ; rep from *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 4 and 5 form one pattern repeat.  If changing colours, change after Round 5 for each colour repeat.
Rep Rounds 4 and 5 till length needed.


Notes :  So here are a few ideas .. If using multiple colours, instead of changing every pattern repeat, you could change every second pattern repeat – so you have two pattern rounds in each colour.

Secondly,  I am pretty happy with the ‘flared’ shape as I’m also making this dress for a younger child, but if you want more of a flared shape, you could add a few (ch 1, dc) repeats in Round 4 (and then you will have to similarly increase the repeats in Round 5) and add to the flare in the lower part of the dress.  Note that if you do decide to increase the (ch 1, dc) pattern repeat, it must be in ODD numbers.  In this pattern we have a total of 5 dcs and 4 ch-1 sps, so you will need to increase that to 7 dcs with 6 ch-1 sps etc.

Great .. so off we go and complete our lovely dress.  Once done, fasten off.. weave in all ends… and then let’s go and show off this new creation on all the social networking pages J



Part I : Strap : Make two
There is no chart or pattern for this.. so following the general shell-like pattern, I’ve worked this strap myself.  



Basically, I’m going to work a fsc row and then work scallops on both sides – so we work scallops on one side of fsc, then go around and work scallops around the other side and as we’re doing the scallops, we’ll do it all around the neckline and armhole. 

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; *ch 5, sk next 4 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1st sc , 7 dc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
*sc in the next sc , 7 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* till end.  
Turn.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Re-attach yarn onto the other side of this same fsc chain and Rep Rows 1 and 2 for the scalloped finish on the other side.

Make two such straps and attach them onto the top of the yoke (front to back). 

Fasten off and weave in ends, attach your button and a lovely satin ribbon .. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your young lady.

Back view

For the final “ta da ” moment, let’s make a cute rose embellishment.

Rose :


Start with a fsc in multiples of 3 + 1.   I started with 52 fsc.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc , *sk next 2 fsc, [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in the next fsc* ; 
rep *to* till last fsc ; dc in the last fsc.  Turn.

Now for the next row, we’re going to make the frilly petal bits.  For this we will use the space between 2 sets of the “V” stitches.  Now this is not an actual space – but it is the ends of the 2 sts, and will hold the 8 dcs up like a fan. Hopefully you’ve understood what I mean.. and will follow with the chart and photo below.



Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; *8 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk next 2 dc, sc in the next space* ; rep *to* till last dc ; 8 dc in the last dc. 

Fasten off, leaving about a 10-12” long tail to stitch up.


Now comes the best part. Holding your rose lace strip with the wrong side facing you, start rolling your strip and sewing in the lower edges to hold the rose together.  Slowly but steadily you’ll see the beautiful flower emerge.




What I did was to check that I was able to figure out how to roll it neatly before I took out my needle and threaded in that long tail to sew it in.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ?? And of course, I needn’t add that the more delicate your yarn, the cuter, smaller and more delicate your rose.  So go ahead and make more roses.. not just for this lovely dress but a lovely bouquet for your home too.. I know you’re longing to do it too 

In the photo below, the tops of each flower are in a contrast colour.. and what a difference that makes!


Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own baby dress.  Thanks.


Have a great day and see you soon. J
  
I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J