Friday, 29 January 2016

EXQUISITE FLORAL TOP



EXQUISITE FLORAL TOP

This is yet another lovely pattern off a Pinterest board that had a neat convenient chart along with it.  I loved that it looks like a set of complicated motifs, but it is a neat continuous pattern.

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.


Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Red Rose knitting cotton yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook . Same pattern, different yarn and you'll have a totally different end product.. what a difference a yarn makes!

Skill level :  Intermediate to Advanced.  
Lots and lots of photographs and instructions.. so do come along and we'll work on this together

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                    ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                   rep : Repeat
dc 2-tog : Double Crochet 2-together
dc 3-tog : Double Crochet 3-together

Stitches used :
Foundation Double crochet : A really lovely way to start a foundation row of chainless double crochet.  This unique way of starting makes your project even .. in a way that needs to be seen for you to agree with me.  If you are familiar with the foundation single crochet, you’ll wonder why you haven’t used this start before.  Do visit the self explanatory link to learn this fascinating new start.

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  I have decided to start this top from the waist and then work up towards the neck and shoulders.  I am going to start with a foundation double crochet (fdc) and then work the lovely floral yoke pattern.
When done, we will come back to this foundation row and work a little floral pattern at the base of the waist.

So when calculating the length, ensure that you keep the base floral pattern bit in mind.

Our pattern repeat is 6 + 1
Start with fdc needed for half the round waist measure.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fdc and in each fdc till the end.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the end.  Turn.

Rep Row 2 till your project is just under the armhole.

Calculations : Now here’s what I suggest.  Do a quick swatch of the pattern for the neckline to see how many inches make up one pattern repeat.  This way you can then decide where you need to start your pattern and how far under the armhole you will work.

Once you’ve worked this out, here’s what I did.  I worked out which was the centre dc of that last row.  I then skipped 2 dc on either side of that centre dc, and placed two new markers.  Take off that centre marker now.

Pattern Row 1 : dc in the 1st dc and each dc till the 1st marker ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next marked dc, and in each dc till end.  Turn.

Move markers one row up.

We are now going to start on our first flower.  Now each petal of our flower is a dc 3-tog.  We will work till that 1st marker, or the dc before that ch-3 sp. 

In this row, we will work on the first four petals of our flower, which will be in the (to).

Pattern Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc and each dc till the dc before ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog in the earlier dc ; [dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp] ; 
sk next sc, rep [to] once ; ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog onto the top of the earlier dc 3-tog); dc in the next marked dc, and in each dc till end.  Turn.

Move markers one row up.

In the following row we will start with our next set of flowers.  So we will first move our markers five dc on either side and  place the markers in the next dc.

Pattern Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc and each dc till the 1st marker ; 
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ; 
[ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ; 
{ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog} ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 
rep (to) once ; dc in each dc till end.  Turn.

Move markers one row up.

In this row, we will work on the first four petals of our flower for the next set, which will be in the (to).

Pattern Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc and each dc till the dc before ch-3 sp ; 
{ (ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog in the earlier dc ; 
[dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp] ; sk next sc, rep [to] once ; 
ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog onto the top of the earlier dc 3-tog) ; 
dc in the next marked dc} ; 
ch 5, sk next two ch-1 sps and ch-3 sp, dc in the next dc ; 
rep {to} once ; and in each dc till end.  Turn.

Move markers one row up.

In this row, we will work on the first four petals of our flower for the next set, which will be in the (to).

Pattern Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc and each dc till the 1st marker ; 
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ; 
[ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ; 
{ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog} ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; 
rep [to] once ;
rep (to) once ; dc in each dc till end.  Turn.

This completes one pattern repeat.  Now do you see how we are growing our pattern sideways, adding one flower per row, and neatly making a “V’ shaped front floral yoke every alternate row.
So continue increasing it sideways till you reach the side of the armhole.

Rep Rows 4 & 5 till your pattern reaches the armhole.



Now you need to remember that we need to decrease and shape the armhole.

So while our pattern continues in the centre, I’m just going to write out the armhole decrease as well.

Armhole decrease Row 1 : Sl-st into the 1st 5 dc ; dc in the next dc and each dc till we reach the centre pattern section ; work the pattern section as per the instructions above ; dc in each dc after pattern till the last 5 dc, sk last 5 dc.  Turn.

Armhole decrease Row 2 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc and each dc till the centre pattern section ; work the pattern section as per the instructions above ; dc in each dc after pattern till the last 2 dc, dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.  Turn.

Armhole Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc and each dc till the centre pattern section ; work the pattern section as per the instructions above ; dc in each dc after pattern till the last dc.  Turn.

We will now continue without further armhole decrease and with just the centre pattern growing with each alternate row.

Rep the pattern row and with a straight armhole side, till you reach the neckline level.  For the neck, what I’ve done is mark the centre of the top for the neckline and then worked the pattern only till that point, and then turn.
We will then work only one side of our top to the shoulder, and then come back to work the other side of the front.

There is one pattern here for the back, and another pattern for the base of the top. The two patterns are similar, but they give a different result.  Look through both to decide which one you wish to use where. J




BACK
The back for this top starts in the same way as the front.  You will work the plain dc’s all the way past the armhole section and then we will only work the pattern just off the shaping for the armhole.

So once the plain dc bit is done, let’s work the pattern.

Pattern Row 1 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc 3-tog in the next dc ; ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same dc ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ; 
[ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc] ; 
*rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end, ending with a (to).   Turn.

In this row, we will work on the first four petals of our flower for the next set, which will be in the (to).

Pattern Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; *(ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next dc) ; {ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog in the earlier dc ; [dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp] ; sk next sc, rep [to] once ; ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog onto the top of the earlier dc 3-tog ; dc in the next dc}* ; rep *to* till end ; ending with a rep (to).   Turn.

Pattern Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ; 
{[ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ; ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same dc 3-tog ; ch 1, dc in the next dc}* ; 
rep *to* till end ; ending with a rep (to).   Turn.

Pattern Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*{ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog in the earlier dc ; [dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp] ; 
sk next sc, rep [to] once ; 
ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog onto the top of the earlier dc 3-tog ; dc in the next dc} ; 
(ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc)* ; rep *to* till end ; ending with a rep (to).   Turn.

Pattern Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*{[ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ; ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same dc 3-tog ; ch 1, dc in the next dc} ; (ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc)* ; 
rep *to* till end ; ending with a rep (to).   Turn.








LOWER BORDER OF TOP :
For this lower part of top, we’re working in a round, so join the sides first and then follow pattern instructions.
Our pattern repeat is at 6.

Pattern Round 1 : dc in the 1st 5 dc ; 
(ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc 3-tog in the next dc ; ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ; 
[dc in the next 4 dc] ; 
*rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* till end, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  

Pattern Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st dc ; dc in the same 1st dc ;  dc in the next 2 dc ; 
*sk next dc, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* till end, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

In this row, we will work on the first four petals of our flower for the next set, which will be in the (to).

Pattern Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc 3-tog ; 
*(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next dc 3-tog) ; 
{ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog in the earlier dc ; [dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp] ; 
sk next sc, rep [to] once ; 
ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog onto the top of the earlier dc 3-tog ; dc in the next dc 3-tog}*; rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Pattern Round 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*(ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ; 
{[ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ; ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same dc 3-tog ; ch 1, dc in the next dc}* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

I’ve decided to work a beaded row. 
Optional last round : sc in the 1st st ; 
*ch 3, sl-st into the next sc ; ADD BEAD ; sl-st into the same sc* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ADD BEAD, sl-st into the 1st st.

Note : You could decide to do the border round that we’ve done around the neckline and armhole instead of the Optional last round above as well.

So let your creativity flow and have fun.

Fasten off and weave in ends.




Finishing :
For a neat border around the neckline and armhole, here’s what I’ve done.  I’ve run a round of chain first, and then a little shelled border all around.

Attach your yarn at the shoulder on either side, and we’re working a round of ch-3 sps all around.  Now around certain parts of the neckline and armhole, it may be difficult to see how you get the ch-3 sps, so just wing it and ensure that you get an even sized set of spaces.  The number of spaces do not matter, so go ahead and have fun.

Round 1 : sc in the 1st st ; (ch 3, sc in the horizontal bar end of the next st) ; rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : ch 3 + 2 dc all in the same 1st sc ; sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; (ch 3 + 2 dc all in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; * sl-st into the next sc ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* all the way around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Note : I’ve decided to use a pearl bead in this round.  So, I’ve done the ch 3 + 3 dc in the sc, and then added the bead, and then sc in the ch-3 sp.  See if this works for you too.

Fasten off and weave in ends.  Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.


Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J







































Wednesday, 27 January 2016

TRIAD COWL



TRIAD COWL

This is yet another lovely pattern from my must-make Pinterest list, made for my good friend Kay.  This is a quick two line repeat, which does require an Intermediate crochet skill level, mainly as we work back and forth.  However, I am also hoping that the instructions and chart make this easy enough for a determined crocheter to try.. so do come along, and let's work on this together.



Materials used : Oswal Cashmilon Acrylic yarn with a 4.5 mm hook.
This is a nice chunky pattern, so if you're using a chunky yarn, I'd suggest you do a quick swatch. 

Skill level : Intermediate to advanced

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                                  sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                      ch : Chain
sp : Space                                                                           sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                               hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                        
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet          

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.
                                                           
Our pattern repeat here is 4 + 1.

Start with fsc in multiples of 4 + 1 for the width that you want for your scarf / cowl.

Now let’s quickly talk about this pattern.  
So we work two pairs of dc 2-tog first, and then we work 2 dc along the horizontal which means that we will turn our work 90˚ counter clockwise (or in the direction that we’re working), and then work a ch 3, followed by a dc in the dc 2-tog, which will make this our horizontal dc 2-tog.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same 1st fsc ; sk next 3 fsc, dc 2-tog in the next dc ;  
(dc 2-tog in the next fsc ; sk next 3 fsc, dc 2-tog in the next dc) ;  
ch 3, and turn 90˚, 
dc in the top of the dc 2-tog just made ; 
*(dc 2-tog in the same last fsc ; sk next 3 fsc, dc 2-tog in the next fsc) ; 
ch 3, and turn 90˚, 
dc in the top of the dc 2-tog just made* ; 
rep *to* till the end, dc 2-tog in the last fsc ; ch 1, dc in the same last fsc.  Turn.

So in this row, we will be working the tops of the little dc 2-tog flowers.  So imagine this as you work this row, and you’ll see what I mean.

So we have two vertical dc 2-tog and one horizontal dc 2-tog. 
This pattern creates a flower with two sets of these dc 2-tog, so we will get a six petaled flower.  
Now keep this image in mind while working this next row.

Finally, we have two dc 2-togs one after the other, so choose any one of them for the centre of our ‘flower’.

Row 2 : dc in the 1stdc ; dc 2-tog in the nextdc 2-tog ; 
ch 3, and turn 90˚, dc in the top of the dc 2-tog just made ; dc 2-tog in the same 1st dc 2-tog ;
*sk the horizontal dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog in the next dc 2-tog ; 
ch 3, and turn 90˚, dc in the top of the dc 2-tog just made ; 
dc 2-tog in the same last dc 2-tog* ; 
rep *to* till end ; sk the last dc 2-tog, dc in the same last dc.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1stdc ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same 1stdc ; 
*sk the horizontal dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog in the next dc 2-tog ; 
ch 3, and turn 90˚, dc in the top of the dc 2-tog just made ; 
dc 2-tog in the same last dc 2-tog* ; 
rep *to* till the last horizontal dc 2-tog, sk the horizontal dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog in the last dc 2-tog ; ch 1, dc in the same last dc.  Turn.




Complicated as it seems, we’ve finished one pattern repeat.. and now that you know what you’re doing, it’s going to get simpler.

Rep Rows 2 & 3 till you get the length you need for your scarf.  At the end of both ends of the scarf, you could add a length of tassels to .. well, jazz it up.

If you’re making a cowl (as I have), well, then all I’ve done is join the two ends, and that’s it.. we’ve got a superb cowl made.

For a wrap, well, I’d just increase the first fsc row till I had it wide enough for a wrap, and to add to the lovely lacy effect, I’d ensure I worked with a lighter yarn and a larger hook (than specified), so that it looked nice and lacy.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more patterns. J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  
I’d also appreciate if you could credit this blog when you complete your project.


If you’ve liked this pattern, I appreciate if you could share my blog when you make your creation. 
Have a great day and see you soon. J


Here are links for earlier neckwear I've made
































































 

 http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/crocheting/accessory/diagonal-shells-cowl/79371