Sweet Nothings Crochet: EXQUISITE FLOWER FINGERLESS GLOVES

EXQUISITE FLOWER FINGERLESS GLOVES

These are the pair of gloves that I’ve made to match the flower beanie / cap (which I shared here just yesterday). If you missed that, visit https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2017/02/exquisite-flower-beanie.html

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I do not know if this pattern has been written up before. I only know that I got the photo tutorial for this floral pattern from the internet and have used it to make my first project - my cap. These are my notes as I work on my project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 75 gms of our lovely 4 ply KDR Baby Love acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends

This yarn is not specific for this project.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn ; Alize bamboo yarn ; Spotlight stores 4-Seasons Marvel and Stallion yarns or Hobby Lobby I-Love-this-cotton yarn

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced

Size made : The gloves are from wrist to fingers and about 8.5” in length.

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Extended Single Crochet (e-sc) : hk into st, yo (2 lps on hk), pull through one lp, yo (2 lps on hk),pull through both lps. One e-sc made. (An e-sc is basically an sc on an sc)
Here is an easy video tutorial  https://youtu.be/ZeXQ3NLVjPU
(Extended Double Crochet) e-dc : Yo, insert hk into st, yo, pull through 1 loop (3 loops on hk), yo, pull through 2 lps ( 2 lps on hk), yo, pull through both sts. One e-dc made. (This is like an sc over a regular dc).
Here is an easy video tutorial  https://youtu.be/hf8XIciS8AE

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch hk : Hook
st(s) : Stitch(es) yo : Yarn Over
ch : Chain sc 2-tog : Single crochet 2-tog
fsc : Foundation single crochet

Instructions (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

Before we head off into the slightly complicated pattern, I’d like to explain what we’re planning on doing here.

We will start our finger-less gloves from around wrist and work out way up the fingers.

We will use the floral pattern around the wrist and then work without pattern for the top of the palm etc.

So basically, starting at the wrist, we are working a longish rectangle, with a thumb opening. This is what makes it totally interchangeable – i.e no specific left or right hand glove.

The floral pattern is really soft and makes for a really lovely start, but do remember as we’re pulling a whole load of yarns up, it may be a bit of a tangle – so I’d suggest that we only work one round of the flowers.

That said, go ahead and create and be different.

Our pattern repeat here is 8 and we are working in rounds.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start with fdc in multiples of 8 , for your Round Wrist measure, and keeping the fdc chain carefully flat, join to the 1^st stitch to make a round.

We now have a neat dc row all ready to start.

Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwoGTvFbxbg

In the following round, we will use our post stitch (fpdc) in every alternate stitch.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Round 1 : dc in the 1^st fdc ;

*fpdc around the next fdc ; dc in the next fdc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*fpdc around the next fpdc ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 3 : Rep Round 2 once.

Round 4 : hdc in the 1^st dc ; hdc in the next 6 dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc , hdc in the next 7 dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 5 : hdc in the 1^st hdc ;

(ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc) ; hdc in the next 2 hdc ;

*rep (to) once ; ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, hdc in the next hdc ;

rep (to) once ; hdc in the next 2 hdc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st hdc.

Round 6 : hdc in the 1^st hdc ; (ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in the next hdc) ;

[ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc] ;

*rep (to) 3 times ; rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st hdc.

So this is the pattern of holes you should have. They have been coloured to show you which ones we will be using and in which order.

There are two charts here that you could follow, but I’ve done a combination of them both, so here’s what I have done.

Look at the pattern we’re going to create. We need to work five sets of petals in a “V” formation and gather them all up together.

So first let’s see which ch-1 sps we will use. Here are my diagrams for it.

So 1^st ch-1 sp has 3 sts ; then you work 3 sts in the ch-1 sp below it ; then 3 sts in the next ch-1 sp (to the left and one row below), and we’re then mirroring to complete the flower.

What is the stitch that we use for our flower petals? So here’s where it gets a bit complicated.

We will use a dc 3-tog BUT we will work a dc 3-tog continuously in all 5 ch-1 sps, which means that we will have a whole load of loops to go through when we finish off (30 in total, if not more.. I haven’t counted!)

So you will work a 3 dc-tog in the 1^st ch-1 sp ; continue on to the next ch-1 sp and work 3 dc-tog in that one, so on till you have got all the loops for all 5 ch-1 sps on your hook, and then you will finally yarn over, and draw through all the loops bunching it all up as one neat flower.

The second complication : We will use the 1^st and last ch-1 sps twice. Once to work in the dc 3-tog and once to work in a st.

The third complication : You will need to be in the brown square for the 1^st set of dc 3-tog. So if you are not at that sp, please sl-st till you reach this ch-1 sp

The final complication : You will need to decide if you are working all your flower petals rounds in the same color as the cap or changing colours. If you decide to change colours, you will do it starting Round 6.

Ok.. now that I’ve given you a visual of all of this, let’s work it.

Before you work Round 6, may I request you to read the Notes just after Round 7. Thanks.

Round 7 : (Flower petal round) :

[dc 3-tog in 1^st ch-1 sp ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just below ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp below and to the left ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp to the left and above ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just above ; yarn over and pull through all loops to complete one flower petal] ;

ch 1, and hdc in the last ch-1 sp used for the flower petal ; 3 hdc in the next ch-1 sp (yellow square on the diagram) ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;

{ ch 1, dc 3-tog in same ch-1 sp (as the last sc) ;

dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just below ;

dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp below and to the left ;

dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp to the left and above ;

dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just above ;

yarn over and pull through all loops to complete one flower petal ;

ch 1, and hdc in the last ch-1 sp used for the flower petal ;

3 hdc in the next ch-1 sp (yellow square on the diagram) ;

hdc in the next ch-1 sp } ; rep {to} all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

One petal round complete.

Yes, a lot of work, but isn’t it just fab!

Ok, back to work.

For the next 3 rounds, we will once again form the base for the next set of petals. So we will work 7 sts between two flower petals, but skip the petal tops.

Round 8 : hdc in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(hdc in the next 5 hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk top of flower petal, hdc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

From the following round on, work 1 hdc in each hdc all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st hdc.

Round 9 : hdc in the 1^st hdc and in each hdc all around ; and join with a sl-st to the 1^st hdc.

Now here’s where this gets a little complicated.

We need to work a small slit for the thumb. You will need to decide where you want that slit. The opening is worked on one side, and we will work up and down in rows to get that opening. Once we have a slit wide enough for the thumb, you will join up again and work in rounds.

So I will give you an idea of how to do this, but this is a general plan, so that we can work this for any sized palm.

I’ve drawn a diagram to try and explain this, and hopefully you get it too

So here’s the plan :

1. Work hdc in each hdc all around for a few rounds, till your project reaches the thumb level.

2. You will continue to work an hdc in each hdc, but at the end of each row, you will TURN and work back in ROWS.

3. Work in rows for as many rows as is convenient for your thumb, then join with a sl-st to the 1^st st and go back to working in rounds.

4. Continue working in rounds till you reach the top of the palm, depending on how far up the fingers you want the glove to reach.

5. Fasten off and weave in ends.

6. The sides that you have left unworked, should be pretty neat, but if you wish, you could re-attach yarn, and work one round of sl-st all around to neaten that bit a little further.

7. Work all these instructions for the second glove too.

Easy way :

For this easy method, you just carry on with the pattern till you have crossed the thumb and are halfway down the palm till the base of the fingers. You could continue a little beyond, but you need to pay attention the fact that the further up the fingers you move, the narrower your hand gets. It is ‘thickest’ or widest near the thumb. So if you’re using a yarn that does not stretch too much, then that’s ok as it’s going to be snug around the thumb and just right around the palm of the hand.

So all you’re doing is extending it till the end of the fingers and making a longish tube.

Fasten off and weave in all ends. Ensure you glue all ends down, as you will be pulling these gloves on and off a lot, and the ‘just woven in ends’ will unravel and look ugly later on.

The advantage of this pattern is that you have just this long tube that you can slip on either way – i.e there is no up or down, and if your work is neat, then there is no underside or top side. However remember that the pattern does have a ‘top’ and ‘bottom’, so ensure that when you slip your gloves on, you keep the pattern facing the same way for both hands.

That’s it.. you’re good to go.

Intermediate way :

For this second method, we’ll work in a small ‘hole’ for the thumb to go through, and take the pattern up for the fingers and palm.

If you have decided to work this pattern, please end at Row 5.

Our next round, therefore is a small change on Round 2.

Next Round : “V”-st in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next sc and 3 dc , sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

*ch 3, sk next 3 dc and sc , “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 3, sk next sc and 3 dc , sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till 1^st hdc ;

hdc in that same hdc ;

ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st “V”-st.

.. and now for a small photo session of this really really exquisite flower gloves..

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Here are a few more glove patterns that I’ve worked on and made.

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2018/01/zebra-messy-bun-hat-with-pair-of.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2017/02/exquisite-flower-fingerless-gloves.html