Wednesday, 15 February 2017

EXQUISITE FLOWER FINGERLESS GLOVES


free crochet fingerless gloves pattern

EXQUISITE FLOWER FINGERLESS GLOVES


These are the pair of gloves that I’ve made to match the flower beanie / cap (which I shared here just yesterday). If you missed that, visit https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2017/02/exquisite-flower-beanie.html

I played around with a few ideas and stitches, and mapped this off the cap pattern so she’s now got a pretty solid matching set J

As with all my patterns, I try to make it as easy as possible, with as many links to videos for stitches as well as diagrams.  This pattern has no left and right glove and they are totally inter-changeable.

I do not know if this pattern has been written up before. I only know that I got the photo tutorial for this floral pattern from the internet and have used it to make my first project - my cap.  These are my notes as I work on my project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 75 gms of our lovely 4 ply KDR Baby Love acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced

Size made : The gloves are from wrist to fingers and about 8.5” in length.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                                  sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                      ch : Chain
sp : Space                                                                          sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                              hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                        
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet       

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. 
How to work the fpdc :  yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete 

      

Pattern Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

free crochet fingerless gloves pattern


Before we head off into the slightly complicated pattern, I’d like to explain what we’re planning on doing here.

We will start our finger-less gloves from around wrist and work out way up the fingers.
We will use the floral pattern around the wrist and then work without pattern for the top of the palm etc.
So basically, starting at the wrist, we are working a longish rectangle, with a thumb opening. This is what makes it totally interchangeable – i.e no specific left or right hand glove.

The floral pattern is really soft and makes for a really lovely start, but do remember as we’re pulling a whole load of yarns up, it may be a bit of a tangle – so I’d suggest that we only work one round of the flowers.

That said, go ahead and create and be different. 

Our pattern repeat here is 8 and we are working in rounds.

Start with fdc in multiples of 8 , for your Round Wrist measure, and keeping the fdc chain carefully flat, join to the 1st stitch to make a round.
We now have a neat dc row all ready to start.

Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length

crochet fingerless gloves free pattern

In the following round, we will use our post stitch (fpdc) in every alternate stitch.
Round 1 : dc in the 1st fdc ;
*fpdc around the next fdc ; dc in the next fdc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*fpdc around the next fpdc ; dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 : Rep Round 2 once.

Round 4 : hdc in the 1st dc ; hdc in the next 6 dc ;
*ch 1, sk next dc , hdc in the next 7 dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 5 : hdc in the 1st hdc ;
(ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc) ; hdc in the next 2 hdc ;
*rep (to) once ; ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, hdc in the next hdc ;
rep (to) once ; hdc in the next 2 hdc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 6 : hdc in the 1st hdc ; (ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in the next hdc) ;
[ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc] ;
*rep (to) 3 times ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

So this is the pattern of holes you should have.  They have been coloured to show you which ones we will be using and in which order.

There are two charts here that you could follow, but I’ve done a combination of them both, so here’s what I have done.

Look at the pattern we’re going to create.  We need to work five sets of petals in a “V” formation and gather them all up together.
So first let’s see which ch-1 sps we will use.  Here are my diagrams for it. 


So 1st ch-1 sp has 3 sts ; then you work 3 sts in the ch-1 sp below it ; then 3 sts in the next ch-1 sp (to the left and one row below), and we’re then mirroring to complete the flower.

What is the stitch that we use for our flower petals?  So here’s where it gets a bit complicated.
We will use a dc 3-tog BUT we will work a dc 3-tog continuously in all 5 ch-1 sps, which means that we will have a whole load of loops to go through when we finish off (30 in total, if not more.. I haven’t counted!)
So you will work a 3 dc-tog in the 1st ch-1 sp ; continue on to the next ch-1 sp and work 3 dc-tog in that one, so on till you have got all the loops for all 5 ch-1 sps on your hook, and then you will finally yarn over, and draw through all the loops bunching it all up as one neat flower.

The second complication : We will use the 1st and last ch-1 sps twice. Once to work in the dc 3-tog and once to work in a st.

The third complication : You will need to be in the brown square for the 1st set of dc 3-tog.  So if you are not at that sp, please sl-st till you reach this ch-1 sp

The final complication : You will need to decide if you are working all your flower petals rounds in the same color as the cap or changing colours.  If you decide to change colours, you will do it starting Round 6.

Ok.. now that I’ve given you a visual of all of this, let’s work it.
Before you work Round 6, may I request you to read the Notes just after Round 7. Thanks.











Round 7 : (Flower petal round) :
[dc 3-tog in 1st ch-1 sp ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just below ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp below and to the left ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp to the left and above ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just above ; yarn over and pull through all loops to complete one flower petal] ;

ch 1, and hdc in the last ch-1 sp used for the flower petal ; 3 hdc in the next ch-1 sp (yellow square on the diagram) ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;
{ ch 1, dc 3-tog in same ch-1 sp (as the last sc) ;
dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just below ;
dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp below and to the left ;
dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp to the left and above ;
 dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just above ;
yarn over and pull through all loops to complete one flower petal ;
ch 1, and hdc in the last ch-1 sp used for the flower petal ;
3 hdc in the next ch-1 sp (yellow square on the diagram) ;
hdc in the next ch-1 sp } ; rep  {to} all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
One petal round complete.

Yes, a lot of work, but isn’t it just fab!

Ok, back to work.

For the next 3 rounds, we will once again form the base for the next set of petals.  So we will work 7 sts between two flower petals, but skip the petal tops.

Round 8 : hdc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(hdc in the next 5 hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; sk top of flower petal, hdc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

From the following round on, work 1 hdc in each hdc all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Round 9 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around ; and join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Now here’s where this gets a little complicated.

free crochet fingerless gloves pattern

 We need to work a small slit for the thumb.  You will need to decide where you want that slit.  The opening is worked on one side, and we will work up and down in rows to get that opening.  Once we have a slit wide enough for the thumb, you will join up again and work in rounds.

So I will give you an idea of how to do this, but this is a general plan, so that we can work this for any sized palm.

I’ve drawn a diagram to try and explain this, and hopefully you get it too J

So here’s the plan :
1.       Work hdc in each hdc all around for a few rounds, till your project reaches the thumb level.
2.     You will continue to work an hdc in each hdc, but at the end of each row, you will TURN and work back in ROWS.
3.     Work in rows for as many rows as is convenient for your thumb, then join with a sl-st to the 1st st and go back to working in rounds.
4.     Continue working in rounds till you reach the top of the palm, depending on how far up the fingers you want the glove to reach.
5.     Fasten off and weave in ends.
6.     The sides that you have left unworked, should be pretty neat, but if you wish, you could re-attach yarn, and work one round of sl-st all around to neaten that bit a little further.
7.     Work all these instructions for the second glove too.


Easy way :
For this easy method, you just carry on with the pattern till you have crossed the thumb and are halfway down the palm till the base of the fingers.  You could continue a little beyond, but you need to pay attention the fact that the further up the fingers you move, the narrower your hand gets.  It is ‘thickest’ or widest near the thumb.  So if you’re using a yarn that does not stretch too much, then that’s ok as it’s going to be snug around the thumb and just right around the palm of the hand.
So all you’re doing is extending it till the end of the fingers and making a longish tube.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.  Ensure you glue all ends down, as you will be pulling these gloves on and off a lot, and the ‘just woven in ends’ will unravel and look ugly later on.

The advantage of this pattern is that you have just this long tube that you can slip on either way – i.e there is no up or down, and if your work is neat, then there is no underside or top side.  However remember that the pattern does have a ‘top’ and ‘bottom’, so ensure that when you slip your gloves on, you keep the pattern facing the same way for both hands.
That’s it.. you’re good to go.

Intermediate way :
For this second method, we’ll work in a small ‘hole’ for the thumb to go through, and take the pattern up for the fingers and palm.

If you have decided to work this pattern, please end at Row 5.
Our next round, therefore is a small change on Round 2.

Next Round : “V”-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next sc and 3 dc , sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
*ch 3, sk next 3 dc and sc , “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next sc and 3 dc , sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till 1st hdc ; hdc in that same hdc ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st “V”-st. 

.. and now for a small photo session of this really really exquisite flower gloves..

free crochet fingerless gloves pattern

free crochet fingerless gloves pattern

free crochet fingerless gloves pattern

free crochet fingerless gloves pattern

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I have a few gloves that I’ve made before, so here are those pattern links for you.