Sweet Nothings Crochet: EXQUISITE FLOWER BEANIE

free crochet beanie pattern, free crochet ladies beanie

EXQUISITE FLOWER BEANIE

#Blogaday 45/365

This is a cap / beanie that has been shared several times on Facebook and has been on my “To-do” list for just about ever! I am thrilled to have an opportunity to use the lovely photo tutorial and write the pattern out for it.

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As with all my patterns, I try to make it as easy as possible, with as many links to videos for stitches as well as diagrams. I'm planning on making a pair of fingerless gloves to match this beanie.. so keep an eye out for my blog.

I do not know if this pattern has been written up before. I only know that I got the photo tutorial for this floral pattern from the internet and have used it to make my cap. These are my notes as I work on my project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 75 gms of our lovely 4 ply KDR Baby Love acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook

You also need fabric glue ; embroidery needle

In general : Use any yarn with a suitable hook to make these projects.

For Indians : You can use Red Rose knitting cotton or Red Rose metallic cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used , I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Skill level : Intermediate to advanced

Size made : The cap is 21” adult

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet ch : Chain

sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Before we head off into the slightly complicated pattern, I’d like to explain what we’re planning on doing here.

The floral pattern is really soft and makes for a really lovely start, but do remember as we’re pulling a whole load of yarns up, it may be a bit of a tangle – so I’d suggest that we only work one round of the flowers.

That said, go ahead and create and be different.

For the cap, I have been inspired by this lovely pattern I saw on Facebook, which has a superb photo tutorial, but no written pattern.

Photo tutorial at https://www.facebook.com/449713775223175/photos/a.531320177062534.1073742478.449713775223175/531396620388223/?type=3&theater ; and this is the photo that inspired me to make my beanie

Our stitch count for this pattern is 8. We will start at the brim of the cap, and work our way up to the crown of the cap.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start with fdc in multiples of 8 (for round forehead measure) and keeping the fdc chain carefully flat, join to the 1^st stitch to make a round.

We now have a neat dc row all ready to start.

Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwoGTvFbxbg

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

In the following round, we will use our post stitch (fpdc) in every alternate stitch.

Round 1 : dc in the 1^st fdc ;

*fpdc around the next fdc ; dc in the next fdc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*fpdc around the next fpdc ; dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 3 : hdc in the 1^st dc ; hdc in the next 6 dc ;

*ch 1, sk next dc , hdc in the next 7 dc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Round 4 : hdc in the 1^st hdc ;

(ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc) ; hdc in the next 2 hdc ;

*rep (to) once ;

ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, hdc in the next hdc ;

rep (to) once ; hdc in the next 2 hdc* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st hdc.

Round 5 : hdc in the 1^st hdc ;

(ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in the next hdc) ;

[ch 1, sk next hdc, hdc in the next hdc] ;

*rep (to) 3 times ; rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st hdc.

So this is the pattern of holes you should have.

They have been coloured to show you which ones we will be using and in which order.

Look at the pattern we’re going to create. We need to work five sets of petals in a “V” formation and gather them all up together.

So first let’s see which ch-1 sps we will use. Here are my diagrams for it.

So 1^st ch-1 sp has 3 sts ; then you work 3 sts in the ch-1 sp below it ; then 3 sts in the next ch-1 sp (to the left and one row below), and we’re then mirroring to complete the flower.

What is the stitch that we use for our flower petals? So here’s where it gets mighty complicated.

We will use a dc 3-tog BUT we will work a dc 3-tog continuously in all 5 ch-1 sps, which means that we will have a whole load of loops to go through when we finish off (30 in total, if not more.. I haven’t counted!)

So you will work a 3 dc-tog in the 1^st ch-1 sp ; continue on to the next ch-1 sp and work 3 dc-tog in that one, so on till you have got all the loops for all 5 ch-1 sps on your hook, and then you will finally yarn over, and draw through all the loops bunching it all up as one neat flower.

The second complication : We will use the 1^st and last ch-1 sps twice. Once to work in the dc 3-tog and once to work in a st.

The third complication : You will need to be in the brown square for the 1^st set of dc 3-tog. So if you are not at that sp, please sl-st till you reach this ch-1 sp

The final complication : You will need to decide if you are working all your flower petals rounds in the same color as the cap or changing colours. If you decide to change colours, you will do it starting Round 6.

Ok.. now that I’ve given you a visual of all of this, let’s work it.

Before you work Round 6, may I request you to read the Notes just after Round 7. Thanks.

Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Round 6 : (Flower petal round) : [dc 3-tog in 1^st ch-1 sp ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just below ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp below and to the left ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp to the left and above ; dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just above ; yarn over and pull through all loops to complete one flower petal] ;

ch 1, and hdc in the last ch-1 sp used for the flower petal ; 3 hdc in the next ch-1 sp (yellow square on the diagram) ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;

{ ch 1, dc 3-tog in same ch-1 sp (as the last sc) ;

dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just below ;

dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp below and to the left ;

dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp to the left and above ;

dc 3-tog in the ch-1 sp just above ;

yarn over and pull through all loops to complete one flower petal ;

ch 1, and hdc in the last ch-1 sp used for the flower petal ;

3 hdc in the next ch-1 sp (yellow square on the diagram) ;

hdc in the next ch-1 sp } ; rep {to} all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

One petal round complete.

Yes, a lot of work, but isn’t it just fab!

Ok, back to work.

For the next 3 rounds, we will once again form the base for the next set of petals. So we will work 7 sts between two flower petals, but skip the petal tops.

Round 7 : hdc in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(hdc in the next 5 hdc ; hdc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, sk top of flower petal, hdc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

At the end of this row, you will have (once again) 7 hdc followed by one ch-1 sp all around, which is the base row for the next set of flower petals.

STOP and please read these Notes :

1. We have completed one pattern repeat. Rep Rounds 3 – 7 till your project reaches the length you need.

2. We will be working in rounds, so we will end up with a cylinder which we will join at the top to make our cap.

3. If you decide to change colours, you will change for the second set of colours after you complete the base for the 2^nd set of flower petals. Which means that you will change when you reach Round 6, the flower petal round. You will then use the contrast or second set of colours all the way through till you reach Round 6 again for the next set of petals.

4. As you can see from the pattern, the longest dc 3-tog comes right on top of the top of the earlier flower, so all you need to do is follow the pattern as you have worked the 1^st time around, and all your ch-sps will align up.

5. Finally, if you are using a thicker yarn, you could well work a dc 2-tog for each flower petal (instead of a dc 3-tog) , or use double threads and still work a dc 2-tog (which is what the designer seems to have done). I have worked a dc 3-tog with my lavender 4-ply yarn, and am going to double up a 3-ply yarn in darker purple and work a dc 2-tog for the contrast flowers, just to see if this works.

Once your project is the length needed, fasten off and leave a tail to attach.

So once again, here is an idea.

You can either work the flower pattern all the way to the top, or you could work just a few rounds for the bottom and then work plain sc /hdc / dc to the top / crown of the cap.

Even if you decide to work the pattern all the way to the top, you will still need a plain part on the top, before you join up.

So you will end on the flower round (Round 7), and on the following round, here’s what I have done

Next round : hdc in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(hdc in the next 5 hdc, hdc in the next ch-1 sp ; hdc in the next hdc) ;

rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st hdc.

From this round on, work 1 hdc in each hdc all around and join with a sl-st to the 1^st hdc.

Continue working all the way to the crown (i.e the length of your cap) and then we will finish off our beanie.

There are several ways to attach the top of your cap, and here are two ideas that I have used successfully.

Top finishing A : (Same for beret or slouchy)

1. Fold your ‘cylindrical’ project in half, mark the halfway (mid) point ; then fold again in half and mark the quarter points.

2. Pass your embroidery needle first through the halfway or mid-point ; then through the 1^st quarter point and finally through the 2^nd quarter point. You will have a ‘star’ shaped top now.

1. Pass your embroidery needle through the mid-point of the opening closest to you, then the mid-point exactly opposite that ; followed by the next mid-point of the opening closest to you, then the mid-point exactly opposite that.

2. Continue slowly reducing the opening till you’ve sealed it totally. Push your embroidery needle through to the ‘under-side’ of your work. Fasten off.

Weave in ends. Block as per yarn instructions.

Top finishing B : (same for beret or slouchy)

1. Using your embroidery needle, do a loose ‘running stitch’ through the top end of your slouchy, all the way around. (A “running stitch” is one where you go through the fabric from top to bottom, leaving a little space, pass your needle from bottom to top, continuing to go through “running through your fabric” till you reach the end)

2. Pull lightly till the top bunches up neatly.

3. Sew in the ends around the top. Push your embroidery needle through to the ‘under-side’ of your work. Fasten off.

4. Weave in ends. Block as per yarn instructions.

and a little photobombing - to show you the top (crown) ..

and more to show you a totally satisfied client... who swears this is her *most fave cap evvvah* !

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Here are some of my other headwear creations. Have fun with these patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2020/04/easy-slim-seeded-headband.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2020/04/easy-slim-crossed-headband.html