CHEMO
CAP 3
This
set of caps has been made for yet another special donation. I made a few caps
in time for Christmas, and used a few different patterns for them.
These
caps are headed to Tata Memorial Centre pediatric cancer ward in Mumbai.
Thanks
for joining me. Come along, let’s create
something beautiful and spread smiles
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Materials used : Today I’ve used some (Indian) Laura knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
Laura knitting cotton is a really soft yarn, perfect for Chemo caps.
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn ; Alize bamboo yarn.
Lily Sugar n cream and Flinders 4-Seasons 100% cotton 8-ply knitting cotton.
Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced.
The basic cap pattern is easy, but for the pattern of the hair
that frames the cap, the pattern is a little bit more advanced.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Front post single crochet : fpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch on the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fpsc at https://youtu.be/OQa8YLpkdXs
Back post single crochet : bpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpsc at https://youtu.be/L1K_MMLl-D4
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
sc
: single crochet dc : Double crochet
ch
: chain ch-sp
: chain space
sp
: space rep
: Repeat
hk
: hook lp (s) :
loop(s)
yo
: yarn over sl-st : slip
stitch
hdc
: Half double crochet
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please
note that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.
Please
check the top of this blog for video tutorials of all the stitches used in this
pattern sheet.
I
have made two sets of caps before this.
See these at
My
second cap was inspired by Mary Chemo cap and in this third set, I’ve tweaked
this cap even further.
Rather
than have you go back and forth between pattern sheets, I’m going to write out
the full pattern all over again.
You
can make a flower appliqué and the pattern for that is on the bottom of this
blog.
At the top of this blog
are charts for regular head sizes.
So you need to measure
circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer
circumference of your work.
Valuable calculations :
1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.
Remember when
calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat
portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing)
of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just
the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the
pattern sheet.
Oh as we’re working in
rounds, you may like to see this video as well.
How to seamlessly crochet in
rounds : When working with head wear, this is a
really neat way to seamlessly end each round.
In case this video tutorial does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/ISBZK7Du7yE
The basic cap pattern
that I’ve used is as follows.
I’ve then tweaked it a
bit to add a small contrast along the brim.
Start Round 1 :
with a magic circle and work 11 dc in
it.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (11 sts)
Round 2 :
2 dc in the 1st dc and each dc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (22 sts)
Round 3 :
dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
(dc in the next dc ; 2
dc in the next dc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (33 sts)
Round 4 :
dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
(dc in the next 2 dc ; 2
hdc in the next dc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (44 sts)
Round 5 :
dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
(dc in the next 3 dc ; 2
hdc in the next dc ) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (55 sts)
Stop and check the
diameter of your circle.
Here’s where
you work that pi calculation given above.
If the sizing works,
stop increases and continue with the 55 sts to work on the length.
Round 6 :
dc in the 1st st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (55 sts)
Round 7 :
hdc in the 1st st and in each st all around.
Join with a sl-st to the
1st st. (55 sts)
Rounds 8 - 15 :
Rep Rounds 6 & 7.
Round 16 :
Rep Round 6.
Check the length for your hat and work according to your requirement.
Tweak for brim pattern :
Chemo
Cap 1 has 55 sts and is worked one round dc and one round sc.
I
worked the pattern till Round 10 using one colour.
I
then worked Round 11 in the same 1st color but working in sc all
around.
I
worked Round 12 in a contrast colour working sc all around
I
finally worked Round 13 in the 1st main color, working sc all around.
I
then went back to the pattern and finished Rounds 14 – 16 per pattern.
Tweak for hair tendrils :
The
Mary Chemo cap has tendrils just around the sides.
I
have worked tendrils all around.
How to make a hair tendril or a
curly wurly : Check out this neat video tutorial to
see how to work this cute tendril at https://youtu.be/SQMMFQPhcoE
Depending
on the thickness of your yarn you can choose to work either a sl-st ; sc or hdc
in each st of the chain.
So
for the cap here’s what I did.
I placed the cap flat and placed markers for the front fringe portion, then for the sides and finally for the back.
I placed the cap flat and placed markers for the front fringe portion, then for the sides and finally for the back.
So
depending on which portion I was working on, I just adjusted the chain length.
You
start by attaching your black (or whatever color yarn you want for hair) to the
brim of cap. It does not matter where
you start. I suggest you start at one of
the markers and work according to the length needed for the hair tendril at
that point.
For the fringe : Start with ch 5 ; Turn ;
(sl-st
in the 2nd ch from hk ;
sl-st
all the way down the last 3 sts to the brim of cap ;
sl-st
into the next st on brim) ;
rep
(to) down the brim till the next marker for the fringe.
For the sides : Start with ch 7 ; Turn ;
(sl-st
in the 2nd ch from hk ;
sl-st
all the way down the last 5 sts to the brim of cap ;
sl-st
into the next st on brim) ;
rep
(to) down the brim till the next marker for the sides.
For the back : Start with ch 9 ; Turn ;
(sl-st
in the 2nd ch from hk ;
sl-st
all the way down the last 7 sts to the brim of cap ;
sl-st
into the next st on brim) ;
rep
(to) down the brim till the next marker for the back.
Flower appliqué :
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 6 sc in it.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 :
sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch
2 + dc + ch 2 + sl-st) all in the same 1st sc ;
*sc
in the next sc ;
rep
(to) all in the next sc* ;
rep*to*
all round.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
This
completes one round of petals.
If
you want to work a second round, we need to work under the first round of
petals. Once again, this requires Intermediate to advanced skills.
In
this round we will just work a round of chains but from under Round 2, using
the stitches of Round 2, to make a base for the second floral of petals.
Round 3 :
sc around the 1st st ;
(ch
3, sk next 3 sts and work a sc from around the back into the next sc) ;
rep
(to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 :
sl-st in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(sc
+ ch 2 + 2 dc + ch 2 + sc) all in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
rep
(to) in each ch-3 sp all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten
off and leave a long tail for attachment.
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