A
LOVELY SCARF N CAP SET
Welcome
back to Sweet Nothings Crochet’s free crochet pattern blog.
Today
let’s work on a cute set of a scarf and cap for a pair of twins.
I’ve worked with this lovely multi coloured
yarn and a basic pattern to get this fantastic end result. Thank you for joining me.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used two skeins of this gorgeous Oswal multi coloured sock
acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn ; Alize bamboo yarn.
Difficulty level : Easy.
Stitches used :
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Front post single crochet : fpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch on the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the fpsc at https://youtu.be/OQa8YLpkdXs
Back post single crochet : bpsc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpsc at https://youtu.be/L1K_MMLl-D4
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at
https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Abbreviations used : Using U.S Terminology
sc
: Single crochet ch :
Chain
dc
: Double crochet sp(s) :
Space(s)
st(s)
: Stitch(es) hk : Hook
lp
: Loop(s) yo : Yarn Over
sk
: Skip
Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1 turning
chain for ease (not mentioned in pattern instructions)
Please also check the top of this blog for video tutorials of
the stitches used here today.
Please read through all my instructions before you
start.
Both projects use a really basic pattern and the beauty is all thanks to the
multi colored yarn.
Using
multi colored yarn works really well for this project as it gives you this
beautiful marbled end result.
As
we’re working this cap pattern in rounds, you may want to see how to make a
neat seam.
How to seamlessly crochet in
rounds : When working with head wear, this is a
really neat way to seamlessly end each round.
Here’s an easy video tutorial to show you how to this at https://youtu.be/ISBZK7Du7yE
Here is a sizing chart for general head sizing :
Cap :
This is an easy skill
pattern unless you are working in the last four rounds of post stitches. There are easy videos to show you how, but
post stitches require an intermediate to advanced skill level
The worry with using a
different yarn and trying the pattern on your own is sizing. Here’s
how you figure that out.
Valuable calculations :
1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 11 hdc in it.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc and in each
hdc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in the
next hdc ;
(2
hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next hdc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in the
next 2 hdc ;
(2
hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next 2 hdc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in the
next 3 hdc ;
(2
hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next 3 hdc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note
:
Now remember what I’d said about measuring circumference. Check that now. In case you have the right measure needed,
stop increases.
In
case you need to increase, work one more round, increasing 11 more stitches in
total all around. Remember to keep your
yarn stretch in mind.
Round 6 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc
all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rep
Round 6 without any further increase for the length needed for your client.
Now
just for a difference, I decided to work
a few rows of post stitches and give a brim to the beanie / cap. I worked 4 rows of fpdc.
How
do you know when to change stitches to get the last 4 rows for brim?
This
is where your gauge calculations come in.
You
need to measure your rows (length wise) to see how many rows work up to
1”. So say 4 rows work up to 1”, and you
need a total of 8” for the length of your hat, then you will change pattern
when you are 7” from completion. Easy
enough, huh?
As
mentioned before, post stitches need intermediate to advanced skill level. You could finish your full cap without this
end last few rows and still have a gorgeous project.
Front post half double crochet : fphdc : Post stitches are
stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an
easy video tutorial for the fphdc at https://youtu.be/R_dVr9FnBkk
Back post half double crochet : bphdc : Post stitches are
stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an
easy video tutorial for the bphdc at https://youtu.be/9jJHgDX2MsE
Fourth last Round :
hdc around the 1st hdc ;
fphdc
around the next 2 hdc ;
(bphdc
around the next 2 hdc ; fphdc around the next 3 hdc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Last 3 Rounds : hdc around
the 1st fphdc ;
fphdc
around the next 2 fphdc ;
(bphdc
around the next 2 bphdc ; fphdc around the next 3 fphdc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
Matching scarf :
For
the scarf, I found this really interesting link that gave us several sizes.
Just
for a difference, I started my scarf along the length. As I am working for a 3-yr old, I started
with fsc sufficient for the length of the scarf and then just worked the Linen
stitch all the way through. Work it for
the width that you like for your scarf.
Finishing :
I
have added in a row of tassels at the end.
I
just cut lengths of 8” from my yarn and held 4 together to loop through the
last row of stitches evenly. Just ensure
that you knot the ends after you have
looped it through, especially if you are making this for a child.
Block
as per yarn requirements.
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fun and do remember to share my blog post when you show off your creation.
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Here are some other unusual pieces of neckwear that I’ve made.
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