Saturday, 26 November 2016

DIVINE LONG LADIES SKIRT


free crochet skirt pattern

free crochet skirt pattern


crochet skirt


crochet skirt

crochet skirt



DIVINE LONG LADIES SKIRT


Like the famous ABBA song goes, I had a dream, to make a long flowing skirt.. and in that dream I thought it would be with these little pineapples that just exploded into larger and lighter ones , cascading all the way to the floor.. well, thanks to Pinterest, someone else had that dream too and wrote a convenient chart for me.. so I’m saved the trouble of scrunching my face up to make the chart.. I just enjoy the creative process of making this lovely, long, flowing skirt.. so come along with me and let’s smile while we make this super creation. J

Inspired by  one of the wonderful free floating freebies over the net, I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. 




Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Red Rose metallic knitting cotton. This pattern will work well with a lace weight to 2 ply yarn .. and maybe even some 3-ply yarns.. just for the way you’d want it to ‘fall’.. a heavier weight yarn may not fall as well.

Right off, I’m going to request you to please ensure that you do share my blog when you make this exquisite creation… and when you do share it, please share the actual URL / page link and not just my name.  Thank you.

Materials used : Red Rose metallic knitting cotton  (nearly 20 balls) ~ with a 3 mm crochet hook

Size : Waist 27" , bottom flare ~ 170"

Stitches used :
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  This makes your whole project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                             sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                            hdc : Half Double Crochet
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over                                                            ch : Chain

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Before we go ahead with the construction, let’s take a look at what we’re going to do here. 


So we start our pattern from the waist and as we move down, there is a small flare that is brought on by the lovely hanging pineapple border.  So if there is a really large difference between waist and hip measures of the recipient (for this skirt), I’d suggest one of two things :



a)    Use a tie-cord to bring the waist together.  This has two advantages – not only do you avoid the fuss and trouble of buttons and a zipper, but you also have a lot more flair for your skirt.  In case you decide you want to do it this way (rather than fitted), then you work your counts for your start line stitches to go around your (or intended) hips.  You will need a line of ‘holes’ in the first few rows to pass your tie cord.. so I’d suggest you do a (dc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next 2 dc) all around.  You can then loop your tie cord neatly on completion.

b)    Experienced crafters can work in an even increase every alternate row to give the finished skirt a slight “A”-lined effect followed then by the border.

crochet skirt

crochet skirt

crochet skirt

crochet skirt



With this pattern, I am going to use the lovely fdc to start.  I personally feel that the finish this foundation gives is worth all the work.  However if you wish to start with regular chains, go ahead.

So our pattern repeat is 37. Work a small swatch to check your gauge and see how many repeats you need to get the waist round for your project. J

We’re going to work in rows for the first few rows, and then work in rounds.  Now, as each of us will have different waist / hip sizes that we’re working with, please work the opening at the back to suit your requirements.
Now there are two ways to work the skirt calculation.  You can either calculate for the round waist, and then keep the opening large enough to cover or go around the largest part of the lower body and then you will work for these first few rows back and forth
or you could just work the top (round waist area) measure in such a way that it covers the largest part of the body, and then affix an elastic tape along the top of the waist band – such that it neatly stretches and then you can work in rounds all through.
I am also going to be giving the instructions per chart.

I am going to work in rows back and forth for the first few rows, making a small opening at the back to ease in the hips.  I will then work in rounds.  My instructions, therefore will be in rows and then rounds accordingly.
If you feel that you need several more rows to work the hips in, then please continue working in rows till you have the right measurement, and then work in rounds thereafter.

One cheat / trick to increase width of your garment faster is to increase the spacing between stitch groups.  So if , for e.g, the pattern reads ch-5 , dc in etc, you just make that a ch-6 and work the rest of the pattern. That way, you will be increasing one ch per repeat without changing the pattern, but increasing unnoticeably.  Do note though, that you will need to add this ch all through the pattern else the shape of your skirt may change – i.e you may not get the proper gradual shaping desired.

Start with fdc as per your requirement.  Turn.

We have the first of our “V”-sts from this row on.
Our “V”-st is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 1 :  “V”-st in 1st fdc ; 
*(ch 5, sk next 6 fdc,  “V”-st in next fdc) ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 fdc, sc in the next fdc ; 
[ch 5, sk next fdc, sc in the next fdc] ; 
rep [to] 7 times ; 
ch 2, sk next 2 fdc, “V”-st in the next fdc ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till end. Turn.

From now on, all “V”-sts will be done in the ch-1 sp of the earlier “V”-st.
Row 2 :  “V”-st in 1st “V”-st ; 
*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; 
rep [to] 6 times ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 3 :  “V”-st in 1st “V”-st ; 
*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; rep [to] 5 times ; 
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 4 :  “V”-st in 1st “V”-st ; 
*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; rep [to] 4 times ; 
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 5 :  “V”-st in 1st “V”-st ; 
*(ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; rep [to] 3 times ; 
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st “V”-st

Note 1 : As I am happy with the back opening, I will work in rounds here on, and join with sl-st at the end of every round. If you still need a longer back opening, please work in rows back and forth and join with a sl-st to that 1st “V”-st when you reach the opening length you need.

Note 2 : You will notice that at that point where we’re joining our two sides, we have four  “V”-sts together, whereas all around we have only three “V”-sts.  In the round after you have joined, (so for all those of you who are joining now in Row 5, this applies right now), you will work your “V”-st over the two “V”-sts.  This means that you will work 2 dc in one “V”-st and then second half of the same “V” st, (i.e. ch 2 and then the 2 dc) in the next “V”-st.  This will conveniently  reduce one “V”-st without changing the pattern at all.
Please check the round measurement at this point to ensure that you are going to be able to get the skirt around the largest part of the lower body before continuing.

Note 3 : As all of us may be working different back opening lengths, I am not going to specify where you need to do this “reduction start V-st” , so instructions below will not indicate it. Ensure though that you have only three “V”-sts between the filigree lacy work all around.

Note 4 : Our following row is an increase row.  We will be working 9 dc in the centre “V”-st.  Now at the point where we start, we have those 4 “V’-sts that we need to make into 3, and we are also supposed to be working 9 dcs in that centre “V”-st.  So what I’ve done is work 9 dc over the existing two “V’-sts, thus killing both these birds at one stone.

Round 6 :  Increase row : *{ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc , 
5 dc in the ch-1 sp , dc in the next 2 dc} ; 
(ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; 
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; [ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; 
rep [to] 2 times ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : If you’ve joined at the back of this row (making this a round), may I suggest, for your own convenience and for a neat finish, that you sl-st all the way back to the first of the 9 dc on this first set. 
Instructions will be given assuming that that is where you are.

Round 7 :  dc in the 1st dc ; 
*{ch 1, dc in the next dc} ; 
rep {to} 7 times ; (ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ; 
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; [ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; 
rep [to] once ; rep (to) once ; ch 3, dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 :  sc in the 1st dc ; 
{ch 5, sc in the next dc} ; rep {to} 7 times ; 
(ch 5, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ; [ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ; 
rep [to] once ; rep (to) once ;
*rep {to} 8 times ; rep (to) once ; rep [to] 2 times ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 :  sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
*{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; rep {to} 6 times ; 
ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; (“V”-st in the next ch-5 sp) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 10 :  sc in the ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; 
rep {to} 5 times ; ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; rep (to) 3 times ; 
ch 3, sc  in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 6 times ;  ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3, sc  in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 :  sc in the ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; 
rep {to} 4 times ; (ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 5 times ;  rep (to) 5 times ; ch 3, sc  in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 :  sc in the ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; 
rep {to} 3 times ; (ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 4 times ;  rep (to) 5 times ; ch 3, sc  in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 13 :  sc in the ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; 
rep {to} 2 times ; (ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st)* ; 
rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep {to} 3 times ;  rep (to) 5 times ; ch 4, sc  in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Our following row / round is a rep of Round 6 , in a way.  So let’s break this down to make it a little simpler.

In Round 13, you see that we have five sets of “V”-sts.  Now in the following round, our increases will be in the 2nd and 4th “V”-sts , and this is where we will be starting off our two new pineapples.  So “V”-st nos 1, 3 and 5 stay as “V”-sts. 
Simple enough , right ?

Round 14 :  Increase round : sc in the ch-5 sp ; 
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; rep {to} once ; 
(ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ;
*{ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc , 5 dc in the ch-1 sp , dc in the next 2 dc} ; 
rep (to) once ; rep {to} once ; rep (to) once ; 
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; rep [to] 2 times ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

The next round is also an increase round.  In this round, we will increase in between the two pineapples that we’re starting out.  This is a preparation for the next set of pineapples which will come in between these two pineapples we’re just creating.

So you see how we’re growing our pattern, and adding pineapples..

Round 15 :  Increase round : sc in the ch-5 sp ;
*{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; 
(ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; ch 3, dc in the 1st dc ;
{ch 1, dc in the next dc} ; 
rep {to} 7 times ;
[rep (to) once ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same “V”-st] ; 
ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
rep {to} 7 times ; rep (to) once ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* till end.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 16 :  “V”-st in the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
(ch 5, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; ch 2, sc in the 1st dc ; {ch 5, sc in the next dc} ; 
rep {to} 7 times ; [rep (to) once ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp] ;
* ch 2, sc in the next dc ; rep {to} 8 times ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 5, “V”-st in next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 2, sc in the next dc ; rep {to} 8 times ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 17 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; *[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ; 
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; 
rep {to} 6 times ; ch 3, (“V”-st in next “V”-st) ; “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
rep {to} 7 times ; rep [to] 2 times* ; 
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 18 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; *[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ; 
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; {ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; 
rep {to} 5 times ; rep [to] once ; 
(ch 1, “V”-st in next “V”-st) ; 
rep (to) once ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
rep {to} 6 times ; rep [to] 2 times* ; 
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 19 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; 
*[ch 3, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; rep {to} 4 times ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
rep {to} 5 times ; rep [to] 2 times* ; 
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 20 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ; 
*[ch 4, “V”-st in next “V”-st] ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
{ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp} ; rep {to} 3 times ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
rep {to} 4 times ; rep [to] 2 times* ; 
rep *to* till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

And we’ve successfully completed one repeat. 

Our repeat is from Round 6 – 20.

So if you look at this pattern you’ll see that we are starting the new increase round here, in between the earlier pineapple, and our next pineapple will start in between these pineapples. I am sure you know what I mean.
Remember that as we’re increasing pineapples with each pattern repeat, we will need to increase repeats within each round as we go around.. but I’m sure you knew that too.

Right then, continue these repeats till you have a skirt of the length you need.  The beauty of this pineapple pattern is that you can end it at any time… well, that’s what I’ve done.  Once my skirt reached the full length needed, I ended, without worrying about the pattern at that point. 

The only finishing that I’ve ended with is a picot on that last round.  I used the ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st ch)… and in case you need it, there’s a video link on how to do a picot at the top of this blog write up.


Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your divine skirt on and show off.. you deserve to J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/  OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/


And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Have a great day and see you soon. J

People who like this skirt also looked at these free skirt patterns J