FLORAL MOTIF TOP
When I saw this pattern on some Pinterest board,
I just loved it.. and I had a laugh as I recall, not too long ago, telling my
friend that I disliked motifs and that I steered clear of them.. that said off
late, I’ve done so many projects with motifs, that it’s pretty funny.
That said, just look at this top.. I mean, how
can one resist it.. I rest my case ! I should also add that this I had just
this one ball of yarn, and thought it would be ideal for this.. and (even if I
say so myself), I am right
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This is not my original pattern. I found this
photograph and a convenient chart on the internet.
As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my
notes that I share with you, and here's the inspirational photograph that got me kick-started on this project.
Materials used : Today I’ve used Hilaza Rustica Eclat (made in Mexico), which is a
cotton yarn with some iridescence / shiny metallic-like addition in it, with a 3.5 mm crochet hook.
I used almost the whole ball and
made a top that fits a Size 34” bust
For Indians : May I suggest that our Indian Anchor knitting cotton as well as
our Red Rose knitting cotton are of the same thickness as the yarn I’m
using. I’ve found, however, that some of
our Red Rose yarns are a little thinner – so the white and off-white are of
this thickness, where as the black Red Rose yarn I’ve used was a little
thinner.
For a size 34" bust, I'd say you'd need about 150 gms of this yarn.
Skill level : Intermediate
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Quick analysis of what we’re going
to do here today. This is a
lovely pattern using motifs. So we’ll
make our first motif, measure it and then figure out how many one needs to fit
the person for whom this top is intended.
Simple, right.. so let’s get on with it.
Please note that these are my notes, and sometimes as I am making the motif
or pattern, I tend to tweak it to suit either my yarn or pattern, and the chart
may differ.. so you may see, say a ch-5 and I’ve written do a ch 4.. so
do feel free to choose either. Just
thought I’d add this in specially here, as I am changing the chain spaces and
distances between stitches.
Round 1 : Start with a magic
circle.
(4 dc, ch 4) in the magic circle ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
ch 1, dc and join
to the 1st st.
You are now in the corner ch-4
sp, just where we need to be for the next round.
Round 2 : (4 dc ; ch 4, 4 dc) in the 1st ch-4 sp ;
*ch 2,
sk next 4 dc ;
rep (to) in the next ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 2 and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st 4 dc ;
ch 2, (dc ; ch 4, dc) in
the next ch-4 sp ;
*[ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep
(to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
In the following round, we will
use our dc 4-tog.
Double crochet 4-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog over 4 sts at https://youtu.be/WjSNi7ithIU
Round 4 : dc 4-tog over the 1st 4 dc ;
ch 4, (4 dc ; ch
4, 4 dc) in the next ch-4 sp ;
*[ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc] ;
rep [to]
once ;
ch 4, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 2, dc and join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
You are now in the centre of
that last ch-4 sp.
Round 5 : dc ; ch 1, dc the 1st ch-4 sp ;
*ch 5, sk next
dc 4-tog , dc in the next 4 dc ;
ch 2 , (dc ; ch 4, dc in the next ch-4 sp) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc ;
ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog , [dc ; ch 1, dc in the next
ch-4 sp]* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 5, and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in the same
ch-1 sp ;
[ch 1, dc the same ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
*(ch 4, dc
4-tog over the next 4 dc) ;
{ch 4, 4 dc in the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, 4 dc in the
same ch-4 sp} ;
sk next dc, rep (to) once ;
ch 4, dc in the next ch-1 sp
;
rep [to] 3 times* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
In the following round, we will
use our dc 3-tog.
Round 7 : dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 2, dc in the same
dc ;
[dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc the same dc] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
*ch
7, sk next dc 4-tog, dc in the next 4 dc ;
(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 sp
;
ch 4, dc 3-tog in the same ch-4 sp) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc ;
ch 7,
sk next dc 4-tog and rep [to] 4 times* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 7, sk last
dc 4-tog and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 8 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ;
dc 3-tog in the same
1st ch-2 sp ;
(ch 4, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp) ;
rep (to)
2 times ;
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;
[ch
5, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog ;
ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 5,
dc 3-tog in the same ch-4 sp ;
ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog) ;
ch
5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;
ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
rep (to) 4
times* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 2, dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
You are now in the centre of
that last ch-7 sp.
Round 9 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;
(ch 5, sc in the next
ch-sp) ;
rep (to) 7 times till the 1st corner ;
[dc 3-tog in the
corner ch-4 sp ;
ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-4 sp] ;
*rep (to) 12
times ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
And just like that.. we’re done
with our first motif.. how beautiful is this? Wow!
So let’s get calculations for our
top.
Measure this motif you’ve made,
and work out how many you’d need to work the width of your top.
For the next motifs, we will
add a Round 9, which is just all ch-5 sps all around and we will join-as-we-go with
the ch-sps of Round 8. So we will work
ch 2, join with the earlier motif, ch 2, and work back on this motif. We will work similarly for the corners as
well.
So let me write out the
instructions just for that round.
Round 9 : sc in the 1st
ch-5 sp ;
(ch 2, sc in the ch-sp of the earlier motif Round 8 ;
ch 2, sc in the
ch-sp of this motif Round 8) ;
rep (to) 7 times till the 1st corner
;
[sc in the corner ch-4 sp ; sc in the ch-sp of the earlier motif Round 8 ;
ch
2, sc in the ch-sp of this motif Round 8, sc in the same ch-4 sp] ;
*rep
(to) 12 times ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* all around
and join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Now as we work our motifs, the
only thing you need to work out is which motif attaches or joins up where. So ensure that you lay your work down and
check it every time you reach this Round 8.
The beauty of this top is that
one motif will just work out for the shoulder – with one side of the motif
being the neckline and the other side just making the neat edge of the sleeve (of sorts).
Using the yarn that I have, and
for the size that I am making, I only needed four motifs across, so I thought
I’d work a half motif as well.
Here’s how I’ve worked my half
motifs.
Yet again, when joining the
motifs, I’ve used the join as you go method.
Half motif :
Start with a magic circl ;
(dc ; ch 4, 4 dc ; ch 4, dc ) all in the magic
circle. Turn.
You are now in the corner ch-4
sp, just where we need to be for the next round.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(4 dc ; ch 4, 4 dc) in the next
ch-4 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc ;
rep (to)
in the next ch-4 sp ;
dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st 5 dc ;
ch 2, (dc ; ch 4, dc) in
the next ch-4 sp ;
[ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 2, rep (to)
once ;
rep [to] once ;
dc in the last dc.
Turn.
In the following round, we will
use our dc 4-tog.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 2, dc 4-tog over the next
4 dc ;
ch 4, (4 dc ; ch 4, 4 dc) in the next ch-4 sp ;
[ch 4, dc 4-tog over the
next 4 dc] ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 4, rep (to) once ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 2, dc in
the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc ; ch 1, dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog , dc in
the next 4 dc ;
ch 2 , (dc ; ch 4, dc in the next ch-4 sp) ;
ch 2, dc in the
next 4 dc* ;
ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog , [dc ; ch 1, dc in the next ch-4
sp] ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog ,
dc ; ch 1, dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
[ch
1, dc the same ch-1 sp] ;
*(ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc) ;
{ch 4,
4 dc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 4, 4 dc in the same ch-4 sp} ;
rep (to)
once* ;
ch 4, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 4,
dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
rep [to] once ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.
In the following round, we will
use our dc 3-tog.
Row 6 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; ch 2, dc in the same
2nd dc ;
[dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc the same dc] ;
*ch 5,
sk next dc 4-tog, dc in the next 4 dc ;
(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, dc 3-tog in the same ch-4 sp) ;
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
ch 5,
sk next dc 4-tog and rep [to] 4 times ;
rep *to* once ;
ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog and rep
[to] 2 times ;
dc in the last dc. Turn
Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc 3-tog in the 1st
ch-2 sp ;
(ch 4, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp) ;
*ch 5, sc in the next
ch-7 sp ;
ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ;
[ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next dc
3-tog ;
ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same
ch-4 sp ;
ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ;
ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4
dc ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
rep (to) 4 times* ;
rep *to* once ;
ending
with a dc in the last dc. Turn
Row 8 : sc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-sp)
;
rep (to) 4 times till the 1st corner ;
[dc 3-tog in the corner
ch-4 sp ;
ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-4 sp] ;
*rep (to) in each ch-sp
till next corner ;
rep [to] once in the next corner * ;
rep (to) till the end,
and sc in the last dc. Turn
Finishing :
After all your motifs are
neatly joined up, I’d suggest we do a neat edging all around the neckline and
armhole.
I first ran a round of sc all
around, and then followed it with a round of dc.
This gives it a neat finish and
holds up the otherwise floppy edges.
Fasten off and weave in
ends. Give yourself a big pat on the
back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m
sure you’ll agree.
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed !
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come
back right here for more freebie patterns
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns
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I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those
free patterns … here you go
and here are some more tops..
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
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