Friday, 25 March 2016

FLORAL MOTIF TOP



FLORAL MOTIF TOP

When I saw this pattern on some Pinterest board, I just loved it.. and I had a laugh as I recall, not too long ago, telling my friend that I disliked motifs and that I steered clear of them.. that said off late, I’ve done so many projects with motifs, that it’s pretty funny.

That said, just look at this top.. I mean, how can one resist it.. I rest my case ! I should also add that this I had just this one ball of yarn, and thought it would be ideal for this.. and (even if I say so myself), I am right J

This is not my original pattern. I found this photograph and a convenient chart on the internet.
As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you, and here's the inspirational photograph that got me kick-started on this project.


Materials used : Today I’ve used Hilaza Rustica Eclat (made in Mexico), which is a cotton yarn with some iridescence / shiny metallic-like addition in it, with a 3.5 mm crochet hook.

I used almost the whole ball and made a top that fits a Size 34” bust



For Indians : May I suggest that our Indian Anchor knitting cotton as well as our Red Rose knitting cotton are of the same thickness as the yarn I’m using.  I’ve found, however, that some of our Red Rose yarns are a little thinner – so the white and off-white are of this thickness, where as the black Red Rose yarn I’ve used was a little thinner. 
For a size 34" bust, I'd say you'd need about 150 gms of  this yarn.

Skill level :  Intermediate

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                                      ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                                      rep : Repeat


Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

For starting with a dc 3-tog : If starting a pattern with a dc 3-tog, just a small difference… you start with a ch 2 that denotes that 1st dc, and then work through in the same way as you would for all other dc 3-togs. 
Ch 2, [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 4 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 4-tog made.

For starting with a dc 4-tog : If starting a pattern with a dc 4-tog, just a small difference… you start with a ch 2 that denotes that 1st dc, and then work through in the same way as you would for all other dc 4-togs. 
Ch 2, [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (5 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 4-tog made.


Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  This is a lovely pattern using motifs.  So we’ll make our first motif, measure it and then figure out how many one needs to fit the person for whom this top is intended.  Simple, right.. so let’s get on with it.

Please note that these are my notes, and sometimes as I am making the motif or pattern, I tend to tweak it to suit either my yarn or pattern, and the chart may differ.. so you may see, say a ch-5 and I’ve written do a ch 4.. so do feel free to choose either.  Just thought I’d add this in specially here, as I am changing the chain spaces and distances between stitches.



Round 1 : Start with a magic circle. (4 dc, ch 4) in the magic circle ;
rep (to) 3 times ; ch 1, dc and join to the 1st st.
You are now in the corner ch-4 sp, just where we need to be for the next round.

Round 2 : (4 dc ; ch 4, 4 dc) in the 1st ch-4 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 4 dc ; rep (to) in the next ch-4 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  

Round 3 : dc in the 1st 4 dc ; ch 2, (dc ; ch 4, dc) in the next ch-4 sp ; 
*[ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc] ; rep [to] once ; ch 2, rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, we will use our dc 4-tog. 

Round 4 : dc 4-tog over the 1st 4 dc ; ch 4, (4 dc ; ch 4, 4 dc) in the next ch-4 sp ; 
*[ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc] ; rep [to] once ; ch 4, rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 2, dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

You are now in the centre of that last ch-4 sp.

Round 5 : dc ; ch 1, dc the 1st ch-4 sp ; 
*ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog , dc in the next 4 dc ; 
ch 2 , (dc ; ch 4, dc in the next ch-4 sp) ; 
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog , [dc ; ch 1, dc in the next ch-4 sp]* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 5, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in the same ch-1 sp ; 
[ch 1, dc the same ch-1 sp] ; rep [to] 2 times ; 
*(ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc) ; 
{ch 4, 4 dc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 4, 4 dc in the same ch-4 sp} ; 
sk next dc, rep (to) once ; ch 4, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; rep [to] 3 times* ; 
rep *to* till end ; ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, we will use our dc 3-tog. 

Round 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 2, dc in the same dc ; 
[dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc the same dc] ; rep [to] 2 times ; 
*ch 7, sk next dc 4-tog, dc in the next 4 dc ; 
(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 4, dc 3-tog in the same ch-4 sp) ; 
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch 7, sk next dc 4-tog and rep [to] 4 times* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 7 , sk last dc 4-tog and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; dc 3-tog in the same 1st ch-2 sp ; 
(ch 4, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; 
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ; ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ; 
[ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog ; ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 sp ; 
ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-4 sp ; ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog) ; 
ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ; rep (to) 4 times* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 2, dc and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
You are now in the centre of that last ch-7 sp.

Round 9 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-sp) ; rep (to) 7 times till the 1st corner ; 
[dc 3-tog in the corner ch-4 sp ; ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-4 sp] ; 
*rep (to) 12 times ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Fasten off and weave in ends.




And just like that.. we’re done with our first motif.. how beautiful is this? Wow!

So let’s get calculations for our top.
Measure this motif you’ve made, and work out how many you’d need to work the width of your top.

For the next motifs, we will add a Round 9, which is just all ch-5 sps all around and we will join-as-we-go with the ch-sps of Round 8.  So we will work ch 2, join with the earlier motif, ch 2, and work back on this motif.  We will work similarly for the corners as well.
So let me write out the instructions just for that round.


Round 9 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; (ch 2, sc in the ch-sp of the earlier motif Round 8 ; ch 2, sc in the ch-sp of this motif Round 8) ; rep (to) 7 times till the 1st corner ; [sc in the corner ch-4 sp ; sc in the ch-sp of the earlier motif Round 8 ; ch 2, sc in the ch-sp of this motif Round 8, sc in the same ch-4 sp] ; *rep (to) 12 times ; rep [to] once* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Now as we work our motifs, the only thing you need to work out is which motif attaches or joins up where.  So ensure that you lay your work down and check it every time you reach this Round 8.

The beauty of this top is that one motif will just work out for the shoulder – with one side of the motif being the neckline and the other side just making the neat edge of the  sleeve (of sorts).

Using the yarn that I have, and for the size that I am making, I only needed four motifs across, so I thought I’d work a half motif as well.
Here’s how I’ve worked my half motifs.
Yet again, when joining the motifs, I’ve used the join as you go method.

Half motif :


Start with a magic circle.  (dc ; ch 4, 4 dc ; ch 4, dc ) all in the magic circle. Turn.
You are now in the corner ch-4 sp, just where we need to be for the next round.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(4 dc ; ch 4, 4 dc) in the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 2, sk next 4 dc ; rep (to) in the next ch-4 sp ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st 5 dc ; ch 2, (dc ; ch 4, dc) in the next ch-4 sp ; 
[ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc] ; rep [to] once ; 
ch 2, rep (to) once ; rep [to] once ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

In the following round, we will use our dc 4-tog. 

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 2, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ; 
ch 4, (4 dc ; ch 4, 4 dc) in the next ch-4 sp ; 
[ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc] ; rep [to] once ; 
ch 4, rep (to) once ; rep [to] once ; ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 4 : dc ; ch 1, dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog , dc in the next 4 dc ; 
ch 2 , (dc ; ch 4, dc in the next ch-4 sp) ; ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ; 
ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog , [dc ; ch 1, dc in the next ch-4 sp] ; 
rep *to* once ; ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog , dc ; ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; [ch 1, dc the same ch-1 sp] ; 
*(ch 4, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc) ; 
{ch 4, 4 dc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 4, 4 dc in the same ch-4 sp} ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
ch 4, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; rep [to] 3 times ; 
rep *to* once ; ch 4,  dc in the last ch-1 sp ; rep [to] once ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

In the following round, we will use our dc 3-tog. 

Row 6 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; ch 2, dc in the same 2nd dc ; 
[dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc the same dc] ; 
*ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog, dc in the next 4 dc ; 
(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 4, dc 3-tog in the same ch-4 sp) ; 
ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ; ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog and rep [to] 4 times ; 
rep *to* once ;
ch 5, sk next dc 4-tog and rep [to] 2 times ; dc in the last dc. Turn

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc 3-tog in the 1st ch-2 sp ; 
(ch 4, dc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp) ; 
*ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ; ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ; 
[ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog ; ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-4 sp ; ch 5, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ; ch 5, dc 4-tog over the next 4 dc ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-7 sp ; rep (to) 4 times* ; 
rep *to* once ; ending with a dc in the last dc.  Turn

Row 8 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 5, sc in the next ch-sp) ; rep (to) 4 times till the 1st corner ; 
[dc 3-tog in the corner ch-4 sp ; ch 5, dc 3-tog in the same ch-4 sp] ; 
*rep (to) in each ch-sp till next corner ; rep [to] once in the next corner * ; 
rep (to) till the end, and sc in the last dc.  Turn

Finishing :
After all your motifs are neatly joined up, I’d suggest we do a neat edging all around the neckline and armhole.
I first ran a round of sc all around, and then followed it with a round of dc.
This gives it a neat finish and holds up the otherwise floppy edges.

Fasten off and weave in ends.  Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.


or join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Visit my Pinterest page for all my free patterns https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/

Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J