Wednesday, 7 January 2015

LISBOA BOLERO

LISBOA BOLERO - free crochet pattern info from Sweet Nothings Crochetback view

If you've been following my blogs and my journey through Portugal, then today we have travelled from Aveiro to Lisbon (or Lisboa), and it’s a 3-4 hr train ride in (depending on which train you take in).  Oh if you have not been following my blog, do check my previous posts (right hand side of this blog) and catch up on my journey and crochet creations.
My restless fingers can’t sit still, so I decided to start on this lovely bolero that was shared a few days back by my friend Rajeshwari on Facebook.  I also have bought a lot of absolutely smashing yarn – and am itching to try it out.  So for this bolero, I am using the lovely cotton Rosarios 4 Regata. 

We had a lovely stay in Aveiro at this really charming apartment called Lovely Apartments that we booked via booking.com. This fully furnished apartment is just perfect in every way.. centrally located, within walking distance from the city centre and all places of interest.. with a lovely smiling and oh, so helpful owner Maria, who is available on phone at all hours.. not that one needs to contact her as she has kept her apartment top notch and well stocked. 

The path just outside the lovely apartments does not really have vehicular traffic, and the cobbled roads are beautiful – to think that someone has taken the trouble of designing these roads centuries back is just mind boggling!  A short walk down this path brings you to the water ways and the molicieros that are a major tourist attraction.  The molicieros will take you on a lovely journey up and down the scenic routes of Aveiro, one boatman steering and one giving you a short history of the region.  More info here

The must-try foods include Ovos moles which are a sweet concoction with sugar and eggs that just melt in the mouth (check here) ;
a tripas which is a crepe-like snack that has a huge combination of fillings (check here) ; pastel de nata (check here ) ; and of course hot chestnuts that are just a fantastic hot snack! (check here)
The wide range of breads, freshly baked at the malls too are a total treat.. just walking into the bread section of the mall (leave alone a bakery) and smelling this fresh bread baking.. aah !
Santa Joanna is the patron saint and there is a lovely museum dedicated to her and her order.  (check here) & Aveiro Cathedral (check here) which is so beautiful.
Don’t expect a hectic party life in Aveiro, (though we did hear a lot of party sounds the day we arrived) – but a lovely easy-going, even paced vacation demands a city that puts one in that mood.. and that for us was Aveiro.  I can’t describe the beauty sufficiently.. just hope I’ve picqued your curiosity sufficiently to visit this lovely city, when you visit Portugal.

Thank you for joining me.

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This is not my original pattern  and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net.  I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.  The original pattern link may be this one.

Materials used : Today I’ve used the lovely cotton Rosarios 4, Regata, which (I think) is a 4-ply, fingering weight yarn, with a 3.25 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends 
This yarn is not specific for this project.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros ; Red rose metallic or  unbranded  knitting cotton as well as Oswal acrylic yarns
International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced skill level
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :   https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :   https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
What is a slip stitch :  https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps.  One sc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M 

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                  sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet         sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch               ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)               hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
                                                                                  
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project. 

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  
For the front, we start somewhere under the armhole on one side, work a semicircular set of fronts that goes to the shoulders.  
The back seems to be a nice simple worked shell pattern.  
There then is a small lovely shelled scalloped border that encircles from the front around the neck, around the back and then back to the front that finally gives this bolero the lovely finish.  

The front of the bolero has a fixed start number of stitches.  
So to make it slightly larger, you would either need to use a larger hook / thicker yarn, or increase the last few rows after Row 15, to see that it comes together front centre.  

Note that when you are working these increases, you will also be increasing the shoulders and length of the bolero. 
However, that is what creativity and challenge are all about, so go for it!
Let’s get started. 

I start all my rows with a ch 1 as a turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for video tutorials for all the stitches used in this pattern.

PART 1 : FRONT : (Make two)
Magic circle :  https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Row 1 : Start with a magic circle and 12 dc in that magic circle. 
Turn. 
(Do not pull the magic circle closed – we’re working in a semicircle, remember)

What is a crochet chain stitch ?  https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next dc) ; 
*ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* once ; 
ch 1, rep (to) once. Turn. 

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 1, (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc)* ; 
rep *to* 3 times ; 
ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn. 

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;  
*ch 2, (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc)* ; 
rep *to* 3 times ; 
ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn. 

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;  
*ch 2, (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 5 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc)* ; 
rep *to* 3 times ; 
ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn. 

Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ;  
*ch 2, (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc)* ; 
rep *to* 3 times ; 
ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn. 

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ;  
*ch 2, (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 9 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc)* ; 
rep *to* 3 times ; 
ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn. 

Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc ;  
*ch 3, (2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 11 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc)* ; 
rep *to* 3 times ; 
ch 3, dc in the last dc. Turn. 

Row 9 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 2, dc in ch-3 sp ; 
*ch 2, dc in the next 15 dc ; ch 2, dc in ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* 3 times ; 
ch 3, dc in the last dc. Turn. 

Row 10 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next dc ;  
ch 3, dc in the next dc ;  
ch 2, dc in the next 13 dc ; 
*(ch 2, dc in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, dc in the same dc ; 
rep (to) once ; 
ch 2, dc in the next 13 dc* ; 
rep *to* once ; 
ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the last dc.  Turn. 

In the following row we will work a dc 2-tog.  
Check this video tutorial for a how to, if needed.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog :  [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; 

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times.  One dc 2-tog made. 

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.  

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w 

Row 11 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, dc in the next ch-sp) ;  
rep (to) once ; 
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 11 dc ;  
*[ch 2, dc in next dc] ; 
rep [to] once ; 
{ch 2 , dc 2-tog in next dc} ; 
rep {to} once ; 
rep [to] 2 times ; 
ch 2, dc in the next 11 dc* ; 
rep *to* 2 times ; 
rep [to] once ; 
rep (to) once ; 
sk next dc , rep (to) once ; 
ch 3, dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 12 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, dc in the next ch-sp) ;  
rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 9 dc ;
*[ch 2, dc in next dc] ; 
rep [to] 2 times ; 
{ch 2 , dc 2-tog in next dc 2-tog } ; 
rep {to} once ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; 
ch 2, dc in the next 9 dc* ; 
rep *to* 2 times ; 
sk next dc, rep (to) 3 times ; 
ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 13 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
ch 1, dc in the next dc ; 
ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, dc in the next ch-sp) ;  
rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 7 dc ;
*[ch 2, dc in next dc] ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; 
{ch 2 , dc 2-tog in next dc 2-tog } ; 
rep {to} once ; 
rep [to] 4 times ; 
ch 2, dc in the next 7 dc* ; 
rep *to* 2 times ; 
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch 1, dc in next dc ; 
ch 1, dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 14 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
<ch 1, dc in the next dc> ; 
rep <to> once ; 
ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, dc in the next ch-sp) ;  
rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 5 dc ;
*[ch 2, dc in next dc] ; 
rep [to] 4 times ; 
{ch 2 , dc 2-tog in next dc 2-tog } ; 
rep {to} once ; 
rep [to] 5 times ; 
ch 2, dc in the next 5 dc* ; 
rep *to* 2 times ; 
sk next dc, rep (to) 4 times ; 
rep <to> 3 times till end. Turn.

Row 15 : dc in the 1st dc ; 
<ch 1, dc in the next dc> ; 
rep <to> 2 times ; 
ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, dc in the next ch-sp) ;  
rep (to) 2 times ; 
ch 3, sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc ;
*[ch 2, dc in next dc] ; 
rep [to] 5 times ;
 {ch 2 , dc 2-tog in next dc 2-tog } ; 
rep {to} once ; 
rep [to] 6 times ; 
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* 2 times ; 
sk next dc, rep (to) 4 times ; 
rep <to> 4 times till end. Turn.
Chart 1
Good job.  We’re done with one side of the front. 
Fasten off and weave in ends. 
Repeat this for the other front side as well. 
as well.

PART 2 : BACK 
The stitch repeat count here is in multiples of 11 + 4.   
Calculate this for half the round waist / chest measurement.

We work the back in one piece, working side to side.

Row 1 : Start with a row of fsc that will be sufficient for the back width of your bolero.

In the following row, we’ll start with our shells.  
Our shell stitch is (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st 4 fsc ; 
*ch 2, sk next 3 fsc, shell st in the next fsc ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 fsc, dc in the next 4 fsc* ; 
rep *to* till last 4 fsc ; 
dc in the last 4 fsc. Turn.

From this row on our pattern is a lot simpler.  
Our shells will come in the ch-2 sp in the middle of each earlier shell.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st 4 dc ; 
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, shell st in the next ch-2 sp (of shell) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ; 
rep *to* till last 4 dc ; 
dc in the last 4 dc. Turn.

Rep Row 3 till you have the length you desire.

The designer has not given any instructions for the shoulder bit – but I’m writing out what I’ve done.

Next row : dc in the 1st 4 dc ; 
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, shell st in the next ch-2 sp (of shell) ; 
ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 4 dc* ; 
rep *to* once.  Turn.

Rep above row once more and then fasten off and weave in ends.

Re-attach yarn in the 3rd dc set from the other end and rep the two rows above to finish off the other back shoulder.
 Chart 2

PART 3 : JOINING
Place the two fronts down with the flat part of the semicircle that will be the sides of your bolero and the rounded semicircular parts being the front openings of the bolero.  
Place the fronts against the backs and attach the shoulders and sides.

Take a look at these videos to see which joining idea suits you best.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
front and back done

PART 4 : SLEEVES 
The designer has done a separate rectangle for the sleeves with the same pattern as we have done with the back.  She has then probably made this into a round (cylinder like) and attached it to the armhole opening.
I however, have tried something else – so yet again.. choices.. choices.. and decisions .. decisions..
Chart 3
So what I’ve done is run a row of sc all around the armhole opening (after attaching sides and shoulders, of course) in a multiple of 11 sc.  I’ve then done the pattern as for back from Row 2 and repeated Row 3 till the length of sleeve desired.
Remember as we’re working in a round here, so join with a sl-st at the end of every round.


PART 5 : BORDER
This is the final bit of our lovely bolero.  This border goes all around the bolero – so we start at one corner and then go across the front, up behind the neck/shoulder , down the other side of the front and then across the back to join back where we started.
Chart 4
Once again, I suggest that we start with a row of sc all around.  

The pattern repeat is in multiples of 10 sc. 

So I’d suggest we do a round of sc’s all around our bolero to multiples of 10.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st sc ;
 [ch 1, sk next 2 sc, dc in the next sc] ; 
ch 1, sk next 2 sc , 
(3 dc in the next sc ; dc in the next 3 sc, 3 dc in the next sc) ; 
*rep [to] 2 times ; 
ch 1, sk next 2 sc , rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

In this final border round, we will add the decorative picot.  Check the video below for how to work a picot stitch neatly.

So here our picot is 3 ch, and then sl-st into the 1st ch. 
We will do all our picots in the 2nd dc of the set. 

We will also be working only on the 9 dc sets and skipping the 2 dc’s and ch-sps in between.
Round 2 : [2 dc in the 1st dc and a picot ; 
(dc in the 2 dc and then a picot) ; 
rep (to) once ; 
dc in the same last dc and the next dc followed by a picot ; 
rep (to) once ; 
2 dc in the next dc followed by a picot ; 
*ch 1, sk dc’s and ch-sps , rep [to] once ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; 
dc in the same last dc and the next dc followed by a picot ; 
rep (to) once ; 
2 dc in the next dc followed by a picot* ; 
rep *to* all around till end.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Great job.. we’re done.  
Fasten off.  
Weave in ends.  
Block as per yarn instructions.. and go ahead.. show off… you deserve to 
Chart 5
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Have a great day and see you soon. 

Here are some of my other creations.  









































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and a doll’s top..


I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  


























































For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.







 























































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https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kaju-katli-scarf




 




























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