Saturday, 9 August 2014

CUTE IN PINK - DEMYSTIFIED

free crochet baby dress pattern

CUTE IN PINK .. DE-MYSTIFIED


This is just an explanation of what I’ve done with the pattern for this dress.  This original creation has been thought out in detail by some other genius, and I take absolutely no credit for it.  However, the original stunner is written in Russian(?) and after going through the chart, this is how I made the dress – so I thought I’d just explain it out here.  This dress can be made to any size.   Instructions are given for making this to the specific size that I have, and a general set of instructions for making it to any size. Please read through all my detailed notes before you head off to make your own project.  Cheers.

And this is the inspirational photograph that got me started on this journey




This dress is worked in two parts – we start with the yoke, which is from just under the armhole to the shoulders, and the neck is a squared one. 

For the frilly lower part of the dress, we reattach to the first start line, and continue downwards.

Materials used : 4-ply baby wool from Stylecraft (0.6 skein = 506.40 m / 553.8 yds / 60 gms), with a 4 mm (US 6 , G) crochet hook.  
Note : I found this yarn is almost similar to the Indian Oswal / Wendy 4-ply regular yarn, and I think the Vardhaman baby soft would work too
Gauge : Yoke : 2 dc rows x 5.5 dc stitches across = 1”  ; Skirt : 2 shells (rows) x 1 shell across (where 1 shell = 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) = 1”

Useful link  for how to measure children http://www.leenas.com/English/measure_children.html and if you want to figure out how to increase/decrease this square neckline, check this out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuZOjy1WfDM


I’ve made this dress for a 9 -12 month old Size 20 chest, and started with (14 sts x 3 sides) + (7 sts x 2 for back) = 56 fsc.  In the chart below, the ‘circles’ represent ch and the other symbol is for dc.
Now using the chart below (as a guide for a square necked yoke, as the no. of sts used differ from our start count), start with 56 fsc  if you too want this sized dress.
Please note however, that I’ve substituted the start ch line with fsc.

Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/

In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start. 

How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :



This pattern can be used to make a dress of any size.   As  I have made a dress for a particular size, I am writing the specific instructions.  However, if you go to the top of this blog, you will see a link for a chart for 'general neck sizes'.  These sizes coordinate with ages, and these are my "go-to" counts.  Using these numbers you can make the yoke for any size.  Thereafter , for the skirt portion, there is a stitch count given - and if you get that bit right too, you will make the dress for the size needed.  Fun and easy enough, right?

PART 1 : YOKE

Start with 56 fsc : ch 2 in 1st fsc (counts as 1st dc), followed by dc in the next 5 fsc, 2 dc in the next fsc ; *ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in the next 13 fsc, 2 dc in next fsc* ; rep from * to * twice till last 7 fsc ; ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in each fsc till end.  Turn. (8 sts increased)

General Start  :  Look at the chart (top of this blog - "chart for neck sizes",  and see which size suits your child.  So just to get this going, let's look at one for 18-24 months (meses) and the start there is with 66 stitches (cadenas).  The break up is 10 + 13 + 20 + 13 + 10.  So this means that there are 20 sts each for back and front, and 13 each for the shoulder/sides.  The back is broken into 10+10 to accommodate the button flap.
So if you are using these charts, you need to do the following :
a) Find which chart suits your child
b) Place a marker at the stitch as per the numbers given.  So for the above chart, you'd have one on the 10th, then 13th after that , then 20th after that.. so on till the end.
c) The four markers that you will place, will be your four corners.
d) Row 2 below tells you what stitch to use till corner, and what to do at each corner.  Follow these instructions and you're on your way to making it just right for your baby girl.
e) Remember though that Row 2 is giving instructions specifically for a start with 56 fsc.  If you are not starting with 56 fsc, then the rep (to) will differ.  So for eg, it reads rep (to) 3 or  6 times in Row 2, but you may have to work a different count.  Just remember that you work the pattern not the repeat count between corners, and you work the pattern stitches at the corners as given.

Row 2 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) ; rep from (to)  3 times ; 
dc in ch-2 sp (at corner), ch 2, dc in ch-sp ; 
*dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc ; 
rep from (to) 6 times ; dc in next dc ; ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; 
rep from (to) 3 times till end. Turn.

Row 3 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep from (to) 3 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2 ; 
*2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 10 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch-2* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; 
2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 4 times, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 and 3 five times = yoke of length ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of 9.5-10”.
After completion of yoke and before starting on the skirt portion, I did 2 rows of sc for placket along the back edge, ensuring I made the button holes for my buttons on the left hand side, and then joined the placket at the bottom edge, so it is now easier to calculate stitches for start of skirt portion.  

free crochet baby dress pattern


In another dress, I’ve used a similar yoke, for a finished chest width of 23-24”, so here are those calculations.  Adapt skirt calculations to fit for this yoke as well, and you can make a larger sized dress too J.  The yoke chart above works well for the counts given below (i.e for a 24” chest)

For start with 75 fsc : ch 2 in 1st fsc (counts as 1st dc), followed by dc in the next 7 fsc, 2 dc in the next fsc ; *ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in the next 17 fsc, 2 dc in next fsc* ; rep from * to * twice till last 9 fsc ; ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in each fsc till end.  Turn. (8 sts increased)

Row 2 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) ; rep from (to)  4 times ; dc in ch-2 sp (at corner), ch 2, dc in ch-sp ; *dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc ; rep from (to) 9 times, dc in next dc, ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ; rep from *to* twice ; rep from (to) 5 times till end. Turn.

Row 3 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) ; rep from (to) 4 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2 ; *2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 12 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch-2* ; rep from *to* twice ; 2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 5 times, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 and 3 three times, and then Row 2 once more = yoke of ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of 11 – 11.5”.

PART 2 : SKIRT

For the skirt portion, we will work in rounds.  Please join your yoke up on the last round (with a sl-st in the 1st st).
The stitch count  for the skirt part is 15 st , so ensure you are in multiples thereof all around
A quick idea : If you want to make your dress more flared (as against the "A"-line I have made), you need to increase the number of stitches you start with, keeping it still in multiples of 15
So figure out how flared you want it, add in the stitiches and let's start on the skirt.

The chart is in blue for every alternate row, and the joining chains are shown in red
Each large shell in this pattern is made up of 4 rows of shells, as explained below
Round 1 : Shell is 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc
Round 2 : Shell is dc in 1st 3 dc, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, ch 5, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, dc in last 3 dc
Round 3 : Shell is dc in 1st 5 dc, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, ch 5, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, dc in last 5 dc
Round 4 : Shell is dc in 1st 7 dc, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, ch 5, 2 dc in ch-5 sp, dc in last 7 dc.

The joining chain between two sets of shells is a ch-5.  In the last join, instead of sl-st into the ch (as we usually do to join a round), sometimes the join is with a dc / trc or dbl trc as below

Joining for Round 1 : 3 ch, 1 dc (so you are where you need to be to start with ch-5 for Round 2)
Joining for Round 2 : Join with a regular ch-5
Joining for Round 3 :  Join with a double treble – (which means you loop your yarn around hook 5 times)

How to do a double treble crochet (dtr) : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Byc31njfIHc
Joining for Round 4 : Join to the top of the ch 2 or ch 3 (which is the 1st dc for the start of your rounds – depending on whether you’ve used a ch 2 or a ch 3 as your start dc.  I prefer a ch-2, as the length of my dc is then perfect).    
For those of you who can somewhat follow a chart, please use these steps above, so you can try to improve your chart reading skills.  You can take a sneak peek to see that you are doing it right, as I am giving the detailed instructions below.  Please do not get confused with the duplicate set of instructions. 

So for a more detailed instruction, let's get down to the nitty gritty.  Please look at joining instructions here and try to follow chart as well.
 Round 1 : sc in the 1st st ; *ch 5, sk next 3 sts, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in the next st ; 
[ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in the next st] ; rep [to] 2 times* ;  
rep *to* all around ; ch 3, and dc to join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
As we used a dc to join, you are now in the center of the last ch-5 sp.

 Round 2 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;  *[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;  
ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc ; (2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ; 
dc in the next 3 dc ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 5, and dc to join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;  *[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;  
ch 5, dc in the next 5 dc ; (2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ; 
dc in the next 5 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ; and join with a dtr (double treble) to the 1st st.

dtr : Double treble – (which means you loop your yarn around hook 5 times)

How to do a double treble crochet (dtr) : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Byc31njfIHc

Round 4 : sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ;  *ch 5, dc in the next 7 dc ; (2 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-3 sp) ;  dc in the next 7 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ; and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rep Rounds 1 - 4 to get the length needed.  

Remember that with each round, you are working only in the ch-2 sp of the shell from the earlier round, and that's how your pattern grows in length.



PART 3 : FINISHING IDEAS

And now to return to the finishing for our lovely dress – I did a quick Shell (similar to that used in Round 1) all around the armhole , so here my repeat was *shell in dc, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk 2 dc* all the way around.

To complete, buttons in the back placket and a lovely pink satin ribbon threaded through the last row of ‘holes’ in the yoke to complete the top portion of your dress.

For the base of the skirt, I just thought I’d throw in a few picot (ch 3, sl-st into the top of dc).  So sc in each dc till the top (or bottom) of the “V” end points of the chevron as shown below, with an sc in all the other dc.
Check the top of this blog for a "how to picot".




And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J Enjoy making this really cute pattern for a baby  J

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