Sweet Nothings Crochet: JUPITER CROCHET RUG

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a large crochet floor rug, photo of the Jupiter crochet floor rug,

JUPITER CROCHET RUG

This is my first circular rug and yet another thing off my “to-do” list and I’m thrilled ! The planet Jupiter, has 16 moons (satellites) and is the largest planet in our solar system.

So far, this is my largest creation too – so the name works.

Now, if I end up making something larger than this, I’ll need help naming that creation – so do send me ideas for my future creations

Thank you for joining me as we work on my first floor rug.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram. All social media handles at the bottom of this blog.

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.

Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.

Cheers. Enjoy

Materials used : Today I’ve used some local Indian unbranded cotton (dori) yarn with a 6.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : I purchased this yarn from Manmohan Industries / Namaksarr yarn / Anis Sharma (Ahmedabad) and used about 2 kg. This is a thick cotton ‘dori’ yarn. Please check my Instagram or Facebook posts (and the tags) to see how you can order this yarn

General yarn info : Today’s yarn is not specific for this pattern.

For this project, use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size. As we’re working on a floor rug and size is of essence, the thicker the yarn, the larger your project.

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced

Size : 65” diameter

This is just for an idea of amount of yarn used and size achieved. You can use any yarn to make this project any size.

Stitches used : Using US terminology

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

What is a chain stitch? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0

Double crochet 4-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog over 4 sts at https://youtu.be/WjSNi7ithIU

Double crochet 4-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/_B0-ye0cClU

Double crochet 5-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog over 5 sts at https://youtu.be/Dh2viux_fBA

Double crochet 5-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 5-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 5-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/5806EIpgcV8

Abbreviations used : Using US terminology

sc : single crochet dc : Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

hk : hook lp (s) : loop(s)

yo : yarn over sl-st : slip stitch

dc 4-tog : Double crochet 4-together

dc 5-tog : Double crochet 5-together

Instruction information

Please note that I start all my rounds with a ch 1 turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for a video tutorial on all the stitches needed to make this full project.

Finally please note that I take a lot of trouble trying to make my notes as easy as possible - so do go through all my detailed notes before you pick up your yarn.

I’ve used my artistic license to change a few stitches in the chart to suit my purpose. These are my notes on my take for this project.

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a large crochet floor rug, chart of the Jupiter crochet floor rug,

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work 16 sc in it.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Here’s a neat video for a seamless finish for your work.

In case the video does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/ISBZK7Du7yE

Round 2 : dc in the 1^st sc ;

(ch 4, sk next sc, dc in the next sc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 4, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

How to work a picot stitch :

In case this video does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Round 3 : (sc ; [dc + ch 3 picot] ; rep [to] 3 times ; sc) all in the ch-4 sp ;

rep (to) all around ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In Round 4, we will work in the “space” between 2 sc.

What does this mean?
Look at Round 3. We start and end the (to) with sc, right?

So in each ch-4 sp there is an sc next to each other, but there’s no st in between, right?

We will work our sts for Round 4 in that “space” between the sc OR you can work on the dc from Round 2.

For convenience, I’m going to say ‘sp between sc’ Got it?

Round 4 : dc in the 1^st sp between sc ;

(ch 5, sk next 2 sc and 4 dc, dc in the next sp)

rep (to) all around ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Now in the following round, you can opt to work 2 dc ; 5 trc ; 2 dc in each ch-5 sp with the picot or you can do what I’ve done

Round 5 : (sc ; [dc + ch 3 picot] ; rep [to] 8 times ; sc) all in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

*ch 1, rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1, join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Here’s where you need to take a call.

We need to start our work from the 2^nd picot stitch.

So you can either sl-st all the way to that picot OR you can fasten off your yarn and re-attach in the 2^nd picot.

I will start instructions assuming you are at the 2^nd picot stitch.

Round 6 : sc in the 1^st picot st ;

(ch 5, sk next picot, sc in the next picot)

*rep (to) once ;

ch 5, sk the next 4 picot, sc in the next picot ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around till the last picot ;

sc in that last picot ;

ch 2 + dc and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

You are now in the center of that last ch-5 sp

Now once again you need to make a choice.

The chart shows a trc 2-tog, but I have worked a dc 2-tog.

Here are neat video tutorials for both stitches.

You decide on the stitch.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch, over 2 sts or sps.

Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

Triple / Treble crochet 2-tog : trc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 3 times. One trc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0y4BbgDTbs shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease as well as use as a decorative stitch, over 3 sts or sps.

Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Round 7 : (dc ; ch 2, dc) all in the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

*ch 6, dc 2-tog over the next 2 ch-5 sps ;

rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* all around till the last ch-5 sp ;

ch 2 + trc and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

You are now in the center of that last ch-6 sp

Round 8 : (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the 1^st ch-6 sp ;

*ch 8, rep (to) in the next ch-6 sp ;

rep *to* all around till the last ch-6 sp ;

ch 3 + trc and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

You are now in the center of that last ch-6 sp

Round 9 : (2 trc ; ch 5, 2 trc) all in the 1^st ch-8 sp ;

*ch 6, 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 6, rep (to) in the next ch-6 sp* ;

rep*to* all around ;

ch 6, join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 10 : sl-st in the 1^st ch-5 sp, sc in the same ch-5 sp ;

(ch 16, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 11 : 17 dc in the 1^st ch-16 sp and in each ch-16 sp all around ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In the following round we will work a dc 4-tog.

Please check the top of this blog for a video tutorial.

The pattern chart reads dc 5-tog.

There is a video tutorial for that too at that top of this blog if you so desire.

Round 12 : sl-st in the 1^st 2 dc ; dc in the next 4 dc ;

(ch 3, sk the next 4 dc, dc in the next 4 dc ;

ch 2, sk the next 2 dc, dc 4-tog in the next dc ;

ch 2, sk the next 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 13 : dc in the 1^st 4 dc ;

*(ch 2, dc 4-tog in the next st ; ch 3, dc 4-tog in the same st) ;

[ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc] ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 14 : dc the 1^st 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;

*(ch 2, dc 4-tog in the next st ; ch 7, dc 4-tog in the next st) ;

[ch 2, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc] ;

{ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc}* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In the following round, the chart indicates a ch-5 picot.

Check the video tutorial above for a refresher.

Round 15 : sl-st to the 1^st dc 4-tog ; dc 4-tog in the same st ;

*ch 6, 3 dc in the next ch-7 sp ;

ch 6, dc 4-tog in the next dc 4-tog ;

(ch 3, dc 3-tog over the 1^st 3 dc ; picot + dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc) ;

ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next dc 4-tog* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 16 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st st ;

*[ch 5, 2 dc in the next dc ; (dc ; ch 3, dc) in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next st ; ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 17 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st st ;

*ch 5, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next st ; ch 2, dc 4-tog in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In the following round we use a dc 3-tog over 3 sts.

For your convenience, here is a video tutorial.

Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog :

In case this video tutorial doesn't open, go to https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

With our dc 3-tog we will work one dc in two sets of sts.

One with the dc 3-tog and one again just as a regular dc.

Round 18 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st st ;

*ch 5, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;

ch 3, dc in the same 3^rd dc (from the earlier dc 3-tog) and in the next 2 dc ;

(dc, ch 3, dc) in the next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;

dc 3-tog over the last dc and the next 2 dc ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next st ; ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 19 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st st ;

*ch 5, sk the dc 3-tog, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;

ch 3, dc in the same 3^rd dc (from the earlier dc 3-tog) and in the next dc ;

5 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

dc in the next 2 dc ;

ch 3, dc 3-tog over the last dc and the next 2 dc ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next st ;

ch 4, dc 4-tog in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 4, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 20 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st st ;

*ch 5, sk the dc 3-tog, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;

ch 3, dc in the same 3^rd dc (from the earlier dc 3-tog) ;

2 dc in the next dc ;

(dc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ;

2 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, dc 3-tog over the last dc and the next 2 dc ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next st ;

ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ;

ch 4, dc 4-tog in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 4, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 21 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st st ;

*ch 5, sk the dc 3-tog, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;

ch 3, dc in the same 3^rd dc (from the earlier dc 3-tog) ;

(dc in the next dc ; 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;

ch 3, dc 3-tog over the last dc and the next 2 dc ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next st ;

[ch 3, sc in the next ch-4 sp] ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 4, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 22 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st st ;

*ch 3, sk the dc 3-tog, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;

ch 3, dc in the same 3^rd dc (from the earlier dc 3-tog) and the next 2 dc ;

ch 3, dc 3-tog over the last dc and the next 2 dc ;

ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next st ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 6, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 4, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 23 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st st ;

*ch 5, sk the dc 3-tog, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;

ch 5, dc 4-tog in the next st ;

(ch 3, dc in the next ch-6 sp) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 24 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st st ;

*ch 6, sk the dc 3-tog, dc 4-tog in the next st ;

(ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the same dc) ;

rep (to) 4 times ;

ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 25 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st st ;

*ch 4, dc 4-tog in the next st ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, 4 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 3, dc 4-tog in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 26 : dc 4-tog in the 1^st st ;

*ch 1, dc 4-tog in the next st ;

ch 8, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ;

(ch 9, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 8, dc 4-tog in the next st* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 8, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 27 : sc in the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

*(ch 5, 5 dc in the next ch-9 sp) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 5, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Double crochet 5-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 5-tog :

In case this video tutorial doesn't come on, go to https://youtu.be/Dh2viux_fBA

Round 28 : 3 dc in the 1^st sc ;

*ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, dc 5-tog over the next 5 dc ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp)

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 3, 3 dc in the next sc* ;

rep *to* all around ;

ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 29 : sl-st and sc into the 2^nd dc ;

*ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sk dc 5-tog, sc in the next ch-5 sp)*

rep *to* all around ;

ch 2 + dc, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

You are now in the center of the last ch-5 sp

Round 30 : sc into the 1^st ch-5 sp ;

(ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ;

rep (to) all around ;

ch 2 + dc, and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Depending on how large and lacy you want your work, rep Round 30.

Do note that as your work gets larger, the ch-5 sps come closer.

Blocking is essential for smaller doilies.

And with this, we finish our fantastic Jupiter crochet rug.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Block as per your yarn requirements.

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