HALTER
BACK DRESS as a SOAP DISPENSER COVER
After
a long break, I’m back to making a few soap dispenser covers.
These
are such cute fun projects, aren’t they ?
Thank you for joining me.
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Cheers. Enjoy
Materials used : Just a
little bit of Oswal Cashmilon acrylic 4-ply yarn, with a 4 mm crochet hook.
You
can work in knitting cotton too – I just had the coolest little bits of acrylic
handy so am using up my little bits of stash.
You
can make this project with any yarn and a hook that suits it.
Skill level : Easy
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how
you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a
neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video
tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how
I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo,
draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check
out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike
the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check
out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Abbreviations used : (Using
U.S terminology)
lp(s)
: Loop(s)
sc : Single crochet
dc
: Double
crochet sp
:
Space
sl-st
: Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s)
: Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo
: Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using US terminology)
Let’s
visualize our project before we start, shall we?
We
are making our halter back dress and we start this around the ‘waist’ of the
bottle. We will then work the yoke for
our dress (in red) and end with the strap that goes around the neck (of your
soap dispenser bottle). In this section,
we will work side to side in rows.
We
then come back to the start row and work the lower skirt part of our
dress. In this section, we will work in
rounds around the bottle.
What
do you need to do before you start?
1.
Measure
your bottle(s) and figure out what approx length and width you’d like.
2. You also
need to measure the ‘neck’ of your bottle and ensure that you start with
sufficient stitches to go around the neck.
3. You need to
decide where you want the ‘waist’ for your dress – so I’d suggest you mark this
point for reference on your bottle.
I work a ch 1 as a turning chain at the start of
each row for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for loads of video
tutorials on how I work a chain-less start for all my stitches.
Start :
Using red :
with about as many fsc as needed to go around the ‘waist’ of your
bottle in multiples of 3.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
I
started with 30 fsc.
I
have worked hdc for the yoke, but you could work a dc or sc as well.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert
hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo,
draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check
out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike
the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the
video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Now
put this band around your bottle (i.e. insert your bottle into this band) and
then approximately mark where you want the back shaped.
I
marked 5 sts on either side (so total 10 sts).
Row 2 :
sk-st in the fsc till the 1st marker (so in my case in the 1st
5 sts) ;
hdc
in each fsc till the 2nd marker.
Leave
the remaining stitches unworked. Turn.
Half double crochet 2-tog : hdc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp] (3 lps on hk) ;
insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through
all 4 lps on hk. One hdc 2-tog made.
Check the video tutorial at https://youtu.be/jdaXTr7Lcig
Row 3 : hdc
2-tog over the 1st 2 sts ;
hdc
in each st till the last 2 sts ;
hdc
2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.
Rows 4 - 5 : Rep Row 3.
Note : Please
check that the curve is not too deep.
If
it is too revealing ;), rep Row 3 only once.
Row 6 : sc
in the 1st st ; hdc in the next st ;
3
dc in the next st ; hdc in the next st ; sc in the next st ;
sl-st
in all the following sts till the last 5 sts ;
sc
the next st ; hdc in the next st ;
3
dc in the next st ; hdc in the next st ; sc in the last st.
We
will now work the halter back bit – i.e. the little string that goes around the
neck. We will also work a round of sl-st all around the edges, finishing and
neatening our yoke.
Row 7 : sl-st
past the sc, hdc and dc ;
sc
in the next dc ;
work
a length of chain to go around bottle neck and back to the other side of the
yoke (I worked 10 ch) ;
sc
in the centre dc of the 3-dc set ;
Turn and sl-st
in each of the 10 ch all the way back to the 1st ch ;
then
continue sl-st all the way down the ‘armhole’ ,
around the back, and up the
next armhole till you reach the halter back part.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
We
have finished the yoke.
Flip the project over and go back to that 1st fsc round.
We
will now work the skirt portion in rounds.
Skirt Round 1 : Using white
Here
is a video tutorial for the skirt portion of this creation.
If the video does not come on, go to https://youtu.be/ui21J5_CaTc
sc
in 1st the fsc ;
(sk
next fsc , 3 dc in the next fsc ;
sk
the next fsc , sc in the next fsc) ;
rep
(to) all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off white. Attach grey.
Skirt Round 2 : Using grey
[3
dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in the 1st sc ;
*sk
next dc, sc in the next dc ;
sk
next dc , rep [to] in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* in each st all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Skirt Round 3 : [3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in the 1st sc
;
*sk
next 3 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
sk
next 3 dc , rep [to] in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* in each st all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Skirt Round 4 : sc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*sk
next 3 dc, [3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc] in the
next sc ;
sk
next 3 dc , sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep
*to* in each st all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
If
you are working for a slender bottle, you will continue rep of Rounds 3 & 4
till you are one row away from your finish.
How
do you calculate if you are one row away? You measure how many cm / inches you
get in length per row and see how far
off the end you are. Easy enough, right?
Now
if you are working with a wider bottle, then let’s work a slightly larger flare
for our dress, shall we?
Skirt Round 5 : [4 dc ; ch 1, 4 dc] in the 1st sc
;
*sk
all dc, sc in the next ch-sp ;
sk
all dc , rep [to] in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* in each st all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Skirt Round 6 : sc in the 1st ch-sp ;
*sk
all dc, [4 dc ; ch 1, 4 dc] in the next sc ;
sk
all dc , sc in the next ch-sp* ;
rep
*to* in each st all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rep
Rounds 5 & 6 till you are one row away from your finish.
The
last round is the same for everyone.
Last Round 6 : sc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(sk
all dc, 7 dc in the next sc ;
sk
all dc , sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) in each st all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten
off and weave in all ends.
I
am sure you are going to have a fun creative day and I am waiting to see all
your photographs.
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to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB
page. Cheers.
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Here
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