VIOLIN
MOTIF
Thank
you for joining me as we work on this exquisite violin motif.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used some
(Indian) Red rose knitting cotton yarn with a 1.9 mm
For Indians : You could use Anchor knitting cotton as well
General material info : I’d say you can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this
lovely project. However the lighter the
yarn, the more delicate the end result.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how
you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
This
is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert
hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo,
draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc
made.
Check
out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike
the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check
out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Instructions : Using U.S terminology
In
an earlier project, I’d made a piano inspired tissue box with a guitar on
top. For that write up, please check https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2018/02/piano-inspired-tissue-box-cover.html
Today we’re just working on a motif – but you could
well add this to the top of a tissue cover box as well.
Once again, please note that this is not an
easy pattern – sorry.
I’ve been inspired by the violin pattern from
This
pattern is not in English but there are charts and w-i-p photos.
If
that works for you, please head off to the blog link now.
This
is what I have done with the charts that I found on the above blog link.
I
was a little confused with all the many parts that the lovely Ana has made –
(she’s done such a splendid job, need I add?) – so I had to check for parts of
violin to see what she has painstakingly recreated in crochet. I am going to try and use the ‘right technical’
terms for the violin parts –so please refer to the picture below for
explanation of each Part as we make it.
Cheers.
Part 1 : Lower Bout, waist and Upper bout
Or body of violin
If you are making a 3D piece, you will need
to make 2 of this, and one long strip for the side and then join along the
sides.
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start :
with 11 fsc. Turn.
Row 1 :
dc in the 1st fsc ;
ch 2, dc in the same 1st fsc ;
dc in the next fsc ;
(ch
1, sk next fsc, dc in the next 2 fsc) ;
rep
(to) 2 times till end ;
ch
2, dc in the last fsc. Turn.
Row 2 :
2 dc in the 1st dc ;
ch
1, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc
in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 3 times till end ;
ch
1, 2 dc in the same last dc. Turn.
Row 3 :
ch 2, dc in the 1st dc ;
ch
1, 2 dc in the same 1st dc ;
ch
1, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 5 times ;
ch
1, 3 dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 :
dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, dc in the same 1st dc ;
dc
in the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 8 times till end ;
ch
1, dc in the same last dc. Turn.
Row 5 :
2 dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 8 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc,
2
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 6 :
2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 9 times ;
ch
1, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 7 :
dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 9 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Row 8 :
2 dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 9 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc. Turn.
In
our next row, we will start with a decrease dc 2-tog that is worked over 1 dc
and the next ch-1 sp.
Row 9 :
dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 8 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc ; dc 2-tog over the last ch-1 sp and the last dc. Turn.
Row 10 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 8 times till end. Turn.
We
will work a decorative stitch on both ends of our violin to give it a rounded
shape. The dc 3-tog we work now is a
decorative stitch and not a decrease stitch.
We will, therefore, work the whole dc 3-tog
in the same stitch so that we get a puffed bobble-like stitch.
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Row 11 :
ch 3 + dc 3-tog all in the same 1st dc ;
ch
3, dc in the next dc ; dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 8 times ;
ch
3 + dc 3-tog in the last dc. Turn.
Once
again we start with a dc 2-tog in the 1st st, which is a decorative
and not a decrease st, so both legs of your dc in the same 1st st.
Row 12 :
dc 2-tog in the 1st dc ;
ch
3, sl-st into the next dc ; sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
dc
in the same 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 6 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp. Turn.
Row 13 :
dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in
the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 6 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
In
the next row, we use a dc 2-tog to decrease and shape our violin, so worked
over 2 sts – a dc and a ch-1 sp.
Row 14 :
dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 6 times ;
sk
next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 15 :
dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 6 times till end. Turn.
Row 16 :
dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 5 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.. Turn.
Once again we will start and end with a decorative dc
3-tog which is all worked in the same st.
This bobble stitch gives a rounded feature to our violin.
Row 17 :
dc 3-tog in the 1st dc ; ch 3, dc in the same 1st
dc ;
ch
1, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 6 times ;
ch
3, dc-3 tog in the last dc. Turn.
Row 18 :
dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 7 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
Row 19 :
dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 8 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 20 :
dc in the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the 1st ch-1 sp
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in
the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 8 times ;
dc
in the last dc. Turn.
Row 21 :
dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 8 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 22 :
dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 8 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.
From this row on, we will be decreasing, so our start
and end sts will be decrease stitches – either dc 2-tog or dc 3-tog and you
will work them over 2 or 3 sts accordingly.
Row 23 :
dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in the
next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 7 times ;
dc
in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch
1, dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 24 :
dc 3-tog over the 1st 2 dc and the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in
the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 6 times ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc 3-tog over the last ch-1 sp and the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 25 :
dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 6 times ;
dc
2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 26 :
dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ;
dc
in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 4 times ;
dc
3-tog over the next dc ; last ch-1 sp
and last dc. Turn.
Row 27 :
dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ;
dc
in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep
(to) 3 times ;
dc
3-tog over the last 3 dc. Turn.
In our final row, we will work a dc 2-tog as a
decrease stitch, but in a slightly different or special way.
We will work it over two ch-1 sps, skipping the dc in between.
I’m calling this our Special dc 2-tog.
Row 28 :
sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; Special dc 2-tog over the 1st
2 ch-1 sps and the skipping 2 dc in between ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch
1, Special dc 2-tog over the next dc and the last dc, skipping the dc in
between. Do not fasten off
Just
to get a nice clear outline, let’s run a round of sc evenly all around the
edges of our work. Fasten off and weave
in ends.
As
you are going to be working along the vertical bars of the dc, place a sc
neatly in the space between 2 vertical dc bars (as you are working down, they
will be horizontally facing you, but they are the vertical bars of the dc, OK?
)
Part 2 : Violin neck
For the violin neck, I’ve used black yarn.
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Start Row 1 : with 11 fdc.
Turn
Row 2 : dc
in the 1st fdc and in each fdc till end. Turn (11)
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st dc and in each dc till end. Turn
In
the following row, we will work a dc 2-tog as a decrease stitch.
Row 4 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
dc
2-tog over the next 2 sts ;
dc
in the next 5 dc ;
dc
2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the last dc.
Turn (9)
Rows 5 - 9 : dc in the 1st dc and in
each dc till end. Turn
In
the following row, we will work a dc 2-tog as a decrease stitch.
Row 10 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
dc
2-tog over the next 2 sts ;
dc
in the next 3 dc ;
dc
2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the last dc.
Turn (7)
Rows 11 - 15 : dc in the 1st dc and in
each dc till end. Turn
In
the following row, we will work a dc 2-tog as a decrease stitch.
Row 16 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
dc
2-tog over the next 2 sts ;
dc
in the next dc ;
dc
2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the last dc.
Turn (5)
Rows 17 - 20 : dc in the 1st dc and in
each dc till end. (5)
Do
not fasten off
Once
again, just to get a nice clear outline, let’s run a round of sc evenly all
around the edges of our work. Fasten off
and weave in ends.
Remember
how we’d worked the sc along the horizontal bars before. J
Part 2A : Peg box & Scroll
For my peg box and scroll, I’ve used the same colour
as I’ve used for the body of the violin.
At this point I am quite confused about which chart
to use – there seem to be two that ‘may’ work.. but this is what I’ve done.
Please check chart too and work with what suits you.
Re-attach your yarn at the 1st dc (of the
last 5 dc row).
For convenience, let’s
continue numbering from Row 20.
Rows 21 - 24 : dc in the 1st dc and in
each dc till end.
Row 25 : (Increase row) : dc in the 1st dc ;
2
dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
2
dc in the next dc ; dc in the last dc. Turn (7)
Rows 26 - 27 : dc in the 1st dc and in
each dc till end. (7)
Row 28 : (Increase row) : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
2
dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
2
dc in the next dc ; dc in the last 2 dc. Turn (9)
Rows 29 : dc in the 1st
dc and in each dc till end. (9)
Check to see if you think your scroll is nice and
plump at this time.
Else continue with the last 2 rows.
Row 30 : (Increase row) : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
2
dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
2
dc in the next dc ; dc in the last 3 dc. Turn (11)
Rows 31 : dc in the 1st
dc and in each dc till end. (11)
Do
not fasten off
Once
again, just to get a nice clear outline, let’s run a round of sc evenly all
around the edges of our work.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
The
last few (increase) rows that you have worked will be rolled over to form the
scroll of the violin. After blocking /
fixing, I suggest that you use a few invisible stitches to hold the scroll in
place.
Part 3 : Tuning pegs
For the tuning pegs, I’ve used the same yarn as I’ve
used for the body colour. The pegs are
attached (2 each) on either side ; somewhere between Rows 21 - 24.
There are two ways to do this
1. Make four pegs and attach after
completion
2.
Make the pegs directly on the peg
box.
If you decide to make four pegs, start and make each
one individually and then attach them with an embroidery / sewing needle.
If you are going to make them directly onto the peg
box, you will mark the four points, and then re-attach your yarn at each spot,
and work each peg in place individually.
Either way the pattern for each little peg stays the
same.
Start : with 4 fsc ; ch 2,
5 dc in the last fsc ;
ch 2 and sl-st in the same last fsc ;
sl-st in each st back to the 1st fsc.
One peg made.
Fasten off (and leave a tail to attach if joining
separately).
Part 4 : Tail piece
This is that tiny piece that comes from the top of
the violin down into which we will “attach” our strings.
Start Row 1 : (using black yarn): with
3 fdc. Turn.
Row 2 : (Increase row) : dc in the 1st dc ;
2
dc in the next dc ;
dc
in the last dc. (4)
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st dc and in each dc till end. (4)
Row 4 : (Increase row) : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc
in the next 2 dc ;
2
dc in the last dc. (6)
Row 5 : dc
in the 1st dc and in each dc till end. (6)
Row 6 : (Increase row) : dc in the 1st dc ;
2
dc in the each of the next 4 dc ;
dc
in the last dc. (10)
Rows 7 - 8 : dc in the 1st dc and in
each dc till end. (10)
Let’s work our final row and create holes.
These are the holes that will hold the violin
strings.
Row 10 : dc
in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) 3 times ;
dc
in the same last dc. (7 dc ; 4 ch-1 sps)
Do
not fasten off
Once
again, just to get a nice clear outline, let’s run a round of sc evenly all
around the edges of our work. Fasten off
and weave in ends.
Part 5 : Bridge
This is that flat piece, just under the tail, through
which our strings will come through.
We will work this fully in sc, using a light brown or
yellow yarn.
Start : with 6 fsc. Turn.
Row 1 : sc in the 1st all 6 fsc. Turn.
Rows 2 - 4 :
sc in the 1st all 6 sc. Turn.
Row 5 : sc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 1, sk next sc, sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) once ; sc in the next sc ;
rep (to) till end. Turn. (4 ch-1 sps ; 6 sc)
Once again we’ll use our Special dc 2-tog,
which will be worked over 2 ch-sps skipping a sc in between.
Row 6 : sc in the 1st sc ; (ch 1, dc in the next sc) ;
ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 2
ch-sps, skipping the 2 sc in between ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 1, sc in the last sc.
Do
not fasten off
Once
again, just to get a nice clear outline, let’s run a round of sc evenly all
around the edges of our work.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
Part 6 : “F” holes
These are the two lovely “S”- shaped pieces on either
side of the bridge.
For this, I just
worked a small length of chain and fashioned it to the shape needed.
I first drew the shape and checked that it
fitted my violin – and then made the chain length according to this little
draft I’ve drawn.
The designer seems to have made 17 chain.
Part 7 : Finishing
Here’s the most fun part.
1. Keeping the photograph of the violin
by your side, start fitting the pieces together.
2.
Try to keep the holes of the bridge
as well as the tail piece aligned.
3.
String the violin string through the
tail, through the bridge and down the neck.
For authenticity, try to wrap
around one of the pegs.
4.
The two right hand side strings will
get wrapped around the right hand side pegs, and last 2 strings around the left
hand side pegs.
5.
I blocked and stiffened my pieces first before
stringing my violin – if that helps.
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