Tuesday 3 December 2019

VIOLIN MOTIF


Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a violin motif, photo of the violin motif,
VIOLIN MOTIF

Thank you for joining me as we work on this exquisite violin motif.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used some (Indian) Red rose knitting cotton yarn with a 1.9 mm crochet hook
For Indians : You could use Anchor knitting cotton as well

General material info : I’d say you can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this lovely project.  However the lighter the yarn, the more delicate the end result.

International yarns :  Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced

Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0


Instructions : Using U.S terminology
In an earlier project, I’d made a piano inspired tissue box with a guitar on top.  For that write up, please check https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2018/02/piano-inspired-tissue-box-cover.html

Today we’re just working on a motif – but you could well add this to the top of a tissue cover box as well.

Once again, please note that this is not an easy pattern – sorry.

I’ve been inspired by the violin pattern from

This pattern is not in English but there are charts and w-i-p photos. 
If that works for you, please head off to the blog link now. 

This is what I have done with the charts that I found on the above blog link.
I was a little confused with all the many parts that the lovely Ana has made – (she’s done such a splendid job, need I add?) – so I had to check for parts of violin to see what she has painstakingly recreated in crochet.  I am going to try and use the ‘right technical’ terms for the violin parts –so please refer to the picture below for explanation of each Part as we make it.  Cheers.


Part 1 : Lower Bout, waist and Upper bout
Or body of violin


Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a violin motif, photo of the violin motif,

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a violin motif, photo of the violin motif,

If you are making a 3D piece, you will need to make 2 of this, and one long strip for the side and then join along the sides.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA  

Start : with 11 fsc.  Turn.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; 
ch 2, dc in the same 1st fsc ; dc in the next fsc ;
(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in the next 2 fsc) ;
rep (to) 2 times till end ;
ch 2, dc in the last fsc.  Turn.

Row 2 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp  ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times till end ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same last dc.  Turn.

Row 3 : ch 2, dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the same 1st dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 1, 3 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, dc in the same 1st dc ;
dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp  ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 8 times till end ;
ch 1, dc in the same last dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 8 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc,
2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 6 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp  ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 9 times ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp  ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 9 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog :  [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; 
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times.  One dc 2-tog made. 
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.  
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w 

Row 8 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 9 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc. Turn.

In our next row, we will start with a decrease dc 2-tog that is worked over 1 dc and the next ch-1 sp. 

Row 9 : dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp  ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 8 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc ; dc 2-tog over the last ch-1 sp and the last dc.  Turn.

Row 10 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp  ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 8 times till end. Turn.

We will work a decorative stitch on both ends of our violin to give it a rounded shape.  The dc 3-tog we work now is a decorative stitch and not a decrease stitch.  
We will, therefore, work the whole dc 3-tog in the same stitch so that we get a puffed bobble-like stitch. 

Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog :   Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM 

Row 11 : ch 3 + dc 3-tog all in the same 1st dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ; dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 8 times ;
ch 3 + dc 3-tog in the last dc.  Turn.

Once again we start with a dc 2-tog in the 1st st, which is a decorative and not a decrease st, so both legs of your dc in the same 1st st.
Row 12 : dc 2-tog in the 1st dc ;
ch 3, sl-st into the next dc ; sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
dc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp  ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Row 13 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
 (ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

In the next row, we use a dc 2-tog to decrease and shape our violin, so worked over 2 sts – a dc and a ch-1 sp.

Row 14 : dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 15 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times till end. Turn.

Row 16 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.. Turn.

Once again we will start and end with a decorative dc 3-tog which is all worked in the same st.  This bobble stitch gives a rounded feature to our violin.

Row 17 : dc 3-tog in the 1st dc ; ch 3, dc in the same 1st dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch 3, dc-3 tog in the last dc. Turn.

Row 18 : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 7 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.

Row 19 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 8 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 20 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the 1st ch-1 sp
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc  ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 8 times ;
dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 21 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 8 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 22 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 8 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.

From this row on, we will be decreasing, so our start and end sts will be decrease stitches – either dc 2-tog or dc 3-tog and you will work them over 2 or 3 sts accordingly.

Row 23 : dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 7 times ;
dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 24 : dc 3-tog over the 1st 2 dc and the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc 3-tog over the last ch-1 sp and the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 25 : dc 2-tog over the 1st dc and the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 26 : dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
dc 3-tog over the next dc ; last  ch-1 sp and last dc. Turn.

Row 27 : dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ;
dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
dc 3-tog over the last 3 dc. Turn.

In our final row, we will work a dc 2-tog as a decrease stitch, but in a slightly different or special way. 
We will work it over two ch-1 sps, skipping the dc in between.
I’m calling this our Special dc 2-tog.

Row 28 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; Special dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 ch-1 sps and the skipping 2 dc in between ; ch 1, dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next dc and the last dc, skipping the dc in between. Do not fasten off

Just to get a nice clear outline, let’s run a round of sc evenly all around the edges of our work.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

As you are going to be working along the vertical bars of the dc, place a sc neatly in the space between 2 vertical dc bars (as you are working down, they will be horizontally facing you, but they are the vertical bars of the dc, OK? )


Part 2 : Violin neck


Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a violin motif, photo of the violin motif,

For the violin neck, I’ve used black yarn.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k 

Start Row 1 : with 11 fdc.  Turn

Row 2 : dc in the 1st fdc and in each fdc till end.  Turn (11)

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  Turn

In the following row, we will work a dc 2-tog as a decrease stitch.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 sts ;
dc in the next 5 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the last dc.  Turn (9)

Rows 5 - 9 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  Turn

In the following row, we will work a dc 2-tog as a decrease stitch.
Row 10 : dc in the 1st dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 sts ;
dc in the next 3 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the last dc.  Turn (7)

Rows 11 - 15 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  Turn

In the following row, we will work a dc 2-tog as a decrease stitch.
Row 16 : dc in the 1st dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 sts ;
dc in the next dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the last dc.  Turn (5)

Rows 17 - 20 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  (5)
Do not fasten off

Once again, just to get a nice clear outline, let’s run a round of sc evenly all around the edges of our work.  Fasten off and weave in ends.
Remember how we’d worked the sc along the horizontal bars before. J


Part 2A : Peg box & Scroll

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a violin motif, photo of the violin motif,

For my peg box and scroll, I’ve used the same colour as I’ve used for the body of the violin.
At this point I am quite confused about which chart to use – there seem to be two that ‘may’ work.. but this is what I’ve done.
Please check chart too and work with what suits you.

Re-attach your yarn at the 1st dc (of the last 5 dc row).  
For convenience, let’s continue numbering from Row 20.

Rows 21 - 24 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end. 

Row 25 : (Increase row) : dc in the 1st dc ;
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the last dc. Turn (7) 

Rows 26 - 27 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  (7)

Row 28 : (Increase row) : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the last 2 dc. Turn (9) 

Rows 29  : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  (9)

Check to see if you think your scroll is nice and plump at this time. 
Else continue with the last 2 rows.

Row 30 : (Increase row) : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the last 3 dc. Turn (11) 

Rows 31  : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  (11)
Do not fasten off

Once again, just to get a nice clear outline, let’s run a round of sc evenly all around the edges of our work. 
Fasten off and weave in ends.

The last few (increase) rows that you have worked will be rolled over to form the scroll of the violin.  After blocking / fixing, I suggest that you use a few invisible stitches to hold the scroll in place.


Part 3 : Tuning pegs

For the tuning pegs, I’ve used the same yarn as I’ve used for the body colour.  The pegs are attached (2 each) on either side ; somewhere between Rows 21 -  24.

There are two ways to do this
1.      Make four pegs and attach after completion
2.      Make the pegs directly on the peg box.
If you decide to make four pegs, start and make each one individually and then attach them with an embroidery / sewing needle.

If you are going to make them directly onto the peg box, you will mark the four points, and then re-attach your yarn at each spot, and work each peg in place individually.
Either way the pattern for each little peg stays the same.

Start : with 4 fsc ; ch 2, 5 dc in the last fsc ;
ch 2 and sl-st in the same last fsc ;
sl-st in each st back to the 1st fsc. 
One peg made.
Fasten off (and leave a tail to attach if joining separately).


Part 4 : Tail piece

Sweet Nothings Crochet free crochet pattern blog, free crochet pattern for a violin motif, photo of the violin motif,


This is that tiny piece that comes from the top of the violin down into which we will “attach” our strings.
Start Row 1 : (using black yarn):  with 3 fdc.  Turn.

Row 2 : (Increase row) : dc in the 1st dc ;
2 dc in the next dc ;
dc in the last dc.  (4)

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  (4)

Row 4 : (Increase row) : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next 2 dc ;
2 dc in the last dc.  (6)

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  (6)

Row 6 : (Increase row) : dc in the 1st dc ;
2 dc in the each of the next 4 dc ;
dc in the last dc.  (10)

Rows 7 - 8 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  (10)

Let’s work our final row and create holes. 
These are the holes that will hold the violin strings.
Row 10 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
dc in the same last dc.  (7 dc ; 4 ch-1 sps)

Do not fasten off

Once again, just to get a nice clear outline, let’s run a round of sc evenly all around the edges of our work.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part 5 : Bridge

This is that flat piece, just under the tail, through which our strings will come through.
We will work this fully in sc, using a light brown or yellow yarn.

Start :  with 6 fsc.  Turn.

Row 1 :  sc in the 1st all 6 fsc.  Turn.

Rows 2 - 4 :  sc in the 1st all 6 sc.  Turn.

Row 5 :  sc in the 1st sc ; 
(ch 1, sk next sc, sc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) once ; sc in the next sc ;
rep (to) till end.  Turn. (4 ch-1 sps ; 6 sc)

Once again we’ll use our Special dc 2-tog, which will be worked over 2 ch-sps skipping a sc in between.

Row 6 :  sc in the 1st sc ;  (ch 1, dc in the next sc) ;
ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 2 ch-sps, skipping the 2 sc in between ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 1, sc in the last sc. 

Do not fasten off

Once again, just to get a nice clear outline, let’s run a round of sc evenly all around the edges of our work. 
Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part 6 : “F” holes

These are the two lovely “S”- shaped pieces on either side of the bridge.  
For this, I just worked a small length of chain and fashioned it to the shape needed.  
I first drew the shape and checked that it fitted my violin – and then made the chain length according to this little draft I’ve drawn. 
The designer seems to have made 17 chain.


Part 7 : Finishing

Here’s the most fun part. 
1.      Keeping the photograph of the violin by your side, start fitting the pieces together. 
2.      Try to keep the holes of the bridge as well as the tail piece aligned.
3.      String the violin string through the tail, through the bridge and down the neck.  For authenticity, try to  wrap around one of the pegs. 
4.     The two right hand side strings will get wrapped around the right hand side pegs, and last 2 strings around the left hand side pegs.
5.      I blocked and stiffened my pieces first before stringing my violin – if that helps.

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