Wednesday, 21 February 2018

AN EXQUISITE INDIAN DANCING DOLL

free crochet dancing doll motif pattern, free crochet Indian dancing doll pattern, free crochet motif pattern, free crochet pattern, free crochet bag pattern, kamal kadai thread, kankri thread,

free crochet dancing doll motif pattern, free crochet Indian dancing doll pattern, free crochet motif pattern, free crochet pattern, free crochet bag pattern, kamal kadai thread, kankri thread,

AN EXQUISITE INDIAN DANCING DOLL

Crinoline doll


I knew the day I saw the first of these delicate little dolls shared on Facebook, that these would need to be done someday.. Today’s that day..come along and let’s work on this exquisite dancing doll together.
This exquisite (Indian) dancing doll is intended for an exquisite Indian dancer – and I know she’s going to love this bag.

Thank you for joining me as we work on this lovely pattern together.

Materials used : Today I’ve used some locally available unbranded lace weight polyester silk (a.k.akamalkadai / kankri) yarn with a 1.75 mm crochet
In general : This particular kamalkadai / kankri thread is only available in India.  However, one can probably use any yarn with a suitable hook to make these projects.

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                             dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                                 ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                 rep : Repeat


Stitches used :
Magic circle :To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

This is not my original pattern but it is my original work. 
I found a chart on the net and as I make my project, these are my notes.
I am tweaking the pattern a bit to get it to the way I want it, so it may look a little different to the chart here.

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and this is the doll that you get when you follow this pattern..


Start Round 1 :  with a magic circle and 7 sc in the magic circle. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  

Round 2 :  2 dc in the 1st sc ; 3 dc in the next sc ; 3 dc in the next 5 sc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 :  dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
*dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

From now on, we will work in rows.
­Note : Edited to add : I felt that the neck was too long – but it was too late for me to take it all out.. well, it’s *never* too late, I was just too lazy – so I doubled the neck up (or folded over) and stitched it down and it worked for me. However, the chart shows it this way, so this is how I am writing it – it *may* work for you with your yarn and hook etc.

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Rows  4 - 5 :  dc in the 1st 3 dc.  Turn.

Row 6 :  2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 7 :  2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 2 dc in the last dc ; ch 6. 
Fasten off

At this point, we have just added ch-6 for one side of the shoulders, and we will reattach yarn for the ch-8 at the other end.

Re-attach your yarn at the dc on the other end.

Row 8 :  ch 8. Turn. dc in the 2nd ch from hk, dc in the next 5 dc (6 dc) ; dc in the next 7 dc ; dc in the next 6 ch.  Turn. 
Fasten off

Row 9 :  2 dc in the 1 st ; dc in each dc till the last dc ; 2 dc in the last dc. 
Turn. (21 dc)

In the next row, we’ll work a decrease at the start and end of our rows, using dc 2-tog. Please check the top of this blog for a ‘how to’.

Row 10 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 17 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn. (19 dc)

Row 11 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 15 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn.

Row 13 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 13 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn.

Row 14 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 11 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn.

Row 15 :  dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till end.  Turn (13 dc)

Row 16 :  dc in the 1st dc ;
2 dc in the next dc and in each dc till the last dc ;
dc in the last dc.  Turn

Row 17 :  dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) till end.  Turn (9 dc ; 8 ch-3 sps)

From the following row, we will use a “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Row 18 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp , “V”-st in the same ch-3 sp ;
“V”-st in the next 7 ch-3 sps.  Turn. (8 “V”-sts)

From now on, unless otherwise specified, we will work our “V”-st in the ch-3 sp of the earlier “V”-st.

Row 19 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st and in each “V”-st till end.
Turn.

Row 20 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 21 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 22 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 23 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 3, hdc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 24 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 4, hdc in the hdc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 25 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 5, hdc in the hdc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 26 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 8, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 27 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch 9, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) till end.
Turn.

Row 28 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 3, hdc in the next ch-9 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the same “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Row 29 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 3, hdc in the hdc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
“V”-st in the next ch-3sp ; “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Row 30 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 3, hdc in the hdc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Row 31 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 2, sk hdc, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Row 32 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Row 33 :  “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

In our final row, let’s work a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3 ; sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).  For a “how to work a picot”, please check the top of this blog.

We will work a picot both in the “V”-st as well as in the ch-sps in between.
For the “V”-st + picot, work (2 dc + picot + 2 dc)
For the ch-4 sp + picot, work (ch 2 + picot + ch 2).  In this case, you will actually work a ch-5 first, and then work a picot by doubling back on the 3rd ch from hk, and then work a ch-2 again.  Got it?

Row 34 :  “V”-st + picot in the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st + picot in the next “V”-st ;
(ch 4 + picot, “V”-st + picotin the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last “V”-st ; “V”-st+ picot in the last “V”-st. 
Turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.  We have finished the head, body and skirt of our dancing doll.  We will start on the arms for our doll.

Turn your doll, such that she’s on one side and we’ll work on the arm directly.
Remember that each vertical bar of the dc = 2 sts, so using this principle, let’s start on our arms.

We will work from our shoulder down for the arm.  Re-attach your yarn at the top corner of the shoulder.

Arm Row 1 : 6 dc from shoulder down. Turn.

Arm Row 2 : hdc in the 1st 3 dc ; dc in the last 3 dc (working towards shoulder). Turn.

Arm Row 3 :  dc in the 1st 3 dc ; hdc in the last 3 hdc. Turn.

Arm Row 4 : Rep Row 2.

Arm Row 5 :  dc in the 1st st, and the next 3 sts ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.

Arm Row 6 :  dc in the all 5 dc. Turn.

Arm Row 7 :  dc in the 1st 3 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.

Arm Row 8 :  dc in the all 4 dc. Turn.

Arm Row 9 :  dc in the 1st2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.

Arm Row 10 :  dc in the all 3 dc. Turn.

Arm Row 11 :  dc 3-tog over all 3 dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

One arm complete.

Mirror instructions for the other arm, paying attention to where you re-attach your yarn for a mirror image

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Hair : For this section, you need to work with your creativity.
I worked a plait after cutting lengths of yarn – so say you want a 3” long plait, you will cut 6” long strands of yarn, and work the plait.  Attach the plait to the back of the head and decorate with beads.

Finishing : Add in bling / jewellery as desired.
Our exquisite Indian dancing doll is ready.  

I decided to attach it on a jute  bag – so I stitched it down and tweaked the arms, stitching them in a cute dance pose to suit the person (a beautiful dancer) for whom this bag is intended.

Have fun creating something oh, so cute! ..and I know your recipient will love it too.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

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