AN
EXQUISITE INDIAN DANCING DOLL
Crinoline
doll
I
knew the day I saw the first of these delicate little dolls shared on Facebook,
that these would need to be done someday.. Today’s that day..come along and
let’s work on this exquisite dancing doll together.
This
exquisite (Indian) dancing doll is intended for an exquisite Indian dancer –
and I know she’s going to love this bag.
Thank you for joining me.
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Materials used : Today I’ve used some locally available unbranded lace weight polyester silk (a.k.a kamal kadai / kankri) yarn with a 1.75 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well as Vardhaman as well as Oswal acrylic yarns
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
This particular kamal kadai / kankri thread is only available in India. However, you can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make these projects.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Abbreviations used :
ch
: chain ch-sp : chain space
sp
: space rep
: Repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
dc : Double crochet
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This
is not my original pattern but it is my original work.
I
found a chart on the net and as I make my project, these are my notes.
I
am tweaking the pattern a bit to get it to the way I want it, so it may look a
little different to the chart here.
and this is the doll that you get when you follow this pattern..
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Start Round 1 : with a
magic circle
and 7 sc in the magic circle.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Round 2 : 2 dc in the 1st sc ;
3 dc in the
next sc ;
3 dc in the next 5 sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
2 dc in the
next dc ;
*dc
in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
From
now on, we will work in rows.
Note
:
Edited to add : I felt that the neck was too long – but it was too late for me
to take it all out.. well, it’s *never* too late, I was just too lazy – so I
doubled the neck up (or folded over) and stitched it down and it worked for me.
However, the chart shows it this way, so this is how I am writing it – it *may*
work for you with your yarn and hook etc.
Rows 4 - 5 : dc in the 1st 3 dc. Turn.
Row 6 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the
next dc ;
2 dc in the last dc. Turn.
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Row 7 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the
next 3 dc ;
2 dc in the last dc ; ch 6.
Fasten
off
At
this point, we have just added ch-6 for one side of the shoulders, and we will
reattach yarn for the ch-8 at the other end.
Re-attach your yarn at the dc on the other end.
Row 8 : ch 8. Turn.
dc in the 2nd ch from
hk,
dc in the next 5 dc (6 dc) ;
dc in the next 7 dc ;
dc in the next 6
ch. Turn.
Fasten
off
Row 9 : 2 dc in the 1 st ;
dc in each dc till the
last dc ;
2 dc in the last dc.
Turn.
(21 dc)
In
the next row, we’ll work a decrease at the start and end of our rows, using dc
2-tog.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Row 10 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
dc in
the next 17 dc ;
dc
2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn.
(19 dc)
Row 11 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
dc in
the next 15 dc ;
dc
2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn.
Row 13 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
dc in
the next 13 dc ;
dc
2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn.
Row 14 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ;
dc in
the next 11 dc ;
dc
2-tog over the last 2 dc.
Turn.
Row 15 : dc in the 1st dc
and in each dc
till end. Turn (13 dc)
Row 16 : dc in the 1st dc ;
2
dc in the next dc
and in each dc till the last dc ;
dc
in the last dc. Turn
Row 17 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch
3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Turn (9 dc ; 8 ch-3 sps)
From the following row, we will use a “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 3, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
Row 18 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ,
“V”-st in the same ch-3 sp ;
“V”-st
in the next 7 ch-3 sps.
Turn. (8
“V”-sts)
From
now on, unless otherwise specified, we will work our “V”-st in the ch-3 sp of
the earlier “V”-st.
Row 19 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st
and in
each “V”-st till end.
Turn.
Row 20 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch
1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Turn.
Row 21 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch
2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Turn.
Row 22 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch
3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Turn.
Row 23 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch
3, hdc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Turn.
Row 24 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch
4, hdc in the hdc ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Turn.
Row 25 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch
5, hdc in the hdc ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Turn.
Row 26 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch
8, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Turn.
Row 27 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
(ch
9, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) till end.
Turn.
Row 28 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch
3, hdc in the next ch-9 sp ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch
3, “V”-st in the same “V”-st* ;
rep
*to* till last “V”-st ;
“V”-st in the last “V”-st.
Turn.
Row 29 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch
3, hdc in the hdc ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
“V”-st
in the next ch-3sp ;
“V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep
*to* till last “V”-st ;
“V”-st in the last “V”-st.
Turn.
Row 30 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch
3, hdc in the hdc ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch
1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep
*to* till last “V”-st ;
“V”-st in the last “V”-st.
Turn.
Row 31 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch
2, sk hdc, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch2,
“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep
*to* till last “V”-st ;
“V”-st in the last “V”-st.
Turn.
Row 32 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch
1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
(ch
3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) once* ;
rep
*to* till last “V”-st ;
“V”-st in the last “V”-st.
Turn.
Row 33 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st
in the next “V”-st ;
(ch4,
“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) once* ;
rep
*to* till last “V”-st ;
“V”-st in the last “V”-st.
Turn.
In
our final row, let’s work a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3 ; sl-st in the 3rd
ch from hk).
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
We
will work a picot both in the “V”-st as well as in the ch-sps in between.
For
the “V”-st + picot, work (2 dc + picot + 2 dc)
For
the ch-4 sp + picot, work (ch 2 + picot + ch 2).
In this case, you will actually work a ch-5
first, and then work a picot by doubling back on the 3rd ch from hk,
and then work a ch-2 again. Got it?
Row 34 : “V”-st + picot in the 1st “V”-st ;
*“V”-st
+ picot in the next “V”-st ;
(ch
4 + picot, “V”-st + picot in the next “V”-st) ;
rep
(to) once* ;
rep
*to* till last “V”-st ;
“V”-st+ picot in the last “V”-st.
Turn.
Fasten
off and weave in ends.
We have finished
the head, body and skirt of our dancing doll.
We will start on the arms for our doll.
Turn
your doll, such that she’s on one side and we’ll work on the arm directly.
Remember that each vertical bar of the dc = 2 sts, so using this
principle, let’s start on our arms.
We
will work from our shoulder down for the arm.
Re-attach your yarn at the top corner of the shoulder.
Arm Row 1 : 6 dc from shoulder down. Turn.
Arm Row 2 : hdc in the 1st 3 dc ;
dc
in the last 3 dc (working towards shoulder). Turn.
Arm Row 3 : dc in
the 1st 3 dc ;
hdc in the last 3 hdc. Turn.
Arm Row 4 : Rep Row 2.
Arm Row 5 : dc in
the 1st st,
and the next 3 sts ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.
Arm Row 6 : dc in
the all 5 dc. Turn.
Arm Row 7 : dc in
the 1st 3 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.
Arm Row 8 : dc in
the all 4 dc. Turn.
Arm Row 9 : dc in
the 1st2 dc ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts. Turn.
Arm Row 10 : dc in
the all 3 dc. Turn.
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Arm Row 11 : dc 3-tog
over all 3 dc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
One
arm complete.
Mirror instructions for the other arm, paying attention to where you re-attach your yarn for a mirror image
Hair :
For this section, you need to work with your creativity.
I
worked a plait after cutting lengths of yarn – so say you want a 3” long plait,
you will cut 6” long strands of yarn, and work the plait. Attach the plait to the back of the head and
decorate with beads.
Finishing : Add in bling / jewellery as desired.
Our
exquisite Indian dancing doll is ready.
I
decided to attach it on a jute bag – so
I stitched it down and tweaked the arms, stitching them in a cute dance pose to
suit the person (a beautiful dancer) for whom this bag is intended.
Have
fun creating something oh, so cute! ..and I know your recipient will love it
too.
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