Sweet Nothings Crochet: PIANO TISSUE BOX COVER with VIOLIN MOTIF

free crochet pattern, free crochet motif pattern, free crochet violin motif pattern, free crochet piano shaped tissue box cover pattern, free crochet violin bow pattern, polyester purse yarn,

PIANO TISSUE BOX COVER with VIOLIN MOTIF

I just made this lovely piano inspired tissue box cover and it had a guitar on top of it. This time, it is the same pattern on a differently shaped box with a violin adorning the top.

Thank you for joining me.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram. Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog.

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.

Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation. Cheers. Enjoy

Materials used : Today I’ve used some unbranded knitting cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook

General material info : The pattern is not yarn specific, which means you can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this lovely project.

Skill level : Advanced

Abbreviations used :

sc : single crochet dc : Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together

trc : Treble / triple crochet

dtrc : Double triple crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Instructions using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

For the piano tissue box cover instructions, please check https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2018/02/piano-inspired-tissue-box-cover.html

You can basically use the same idea to make this box to suit any sized tissue box. All you need to have are the Length / Width and Height of your tissue box ready on hand. You can make this to fit any sized box.

And once you have done the tissue box base, let’s make our lovely violin.

Please note the pattern uses post stitches and needs advanced crochet skills.

There is a lot of thought that has gone into the original pattern for the violin by Chinami Horiba which is a free chart from Ravelry. As there is no write up, these are my notes as I work on my own project.

For the original chart, please check https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/violin-motif

We start with a magic circle and work a series of stitches.

We will not pull the magic circle close.

We will work side to side in rows for the whole pattern.

The first and last stitches worked will be a dc 2-tog, which is a decorative stitch to form a puff/ bobble-like stitch and is not a decrease stitch. So we will work the dc 2-tog all in one stitch.

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Start Row 1 : with a magic circle.

Work dc 2-tog ;

(ch 1, dc ; ch 1, 2 dc ; ch 1, dc) ;

dc 2-tog all in the magic circle.

Pull lightly but do not close. Turn.

From this row on, we will work post stitches all the way down the centre of the violin.

In the following row, we’ll work fpdc.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Row 2 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

fpdc over the next 2 dc ;

2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

[ch 1, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp]. Turn

In the following row we will work bpdc over the fpdc.

Back Post Double Crochet : bpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpdc at https://youtu.be/l9Nt3miOs3s

Row 3 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc each in the next 2 dc ;

[bpdc over the next fpdc ;

dc in the same bpdc ;

bpdc over the next fpdc] ;

2 dc each in the next 2 dc ;

ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp. Turn

Row 4 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 2, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ;

[ch 3, sc in the next dc] ;

rep [to] 2 times ;

ch 1, sc in the next 4 sts ;

rep [to] 3 times ;

ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Now in this row, we will work a fpdc over the fpdc of Row 3, skipping or working over the sc of Row 4.

This is only for that centre bit, as we are creating the handle / of the violin

Row 5 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 1, {fpdc over the next fpdc ;

dc in the same fpdc} ;

rep {to} once ;

fpdc over the next fpdc ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] 2 times ;

ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Row 6 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, sc in the next 5 sts ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

In the following row, we will work a ch-5 picot, which is (ch 5, sl-st in the 5^th ch from hk).

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Row 7 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog + picot in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, {fpdc over the next fpdc ; dc in the next sc} ;

rep {to} once ;

fpdc over the next fpdc ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Row 8 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 1, dc in the next sc ;

ch 1, {bpdc over the next fpdc ;

dc in the next dc} ;

rep {to} once ;

bpdc over the next fpdc ;

dc in the next sc ;

ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Row 9 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 1, sk next dc, {fpdc over the next fpdc ; sk next dc} ;

rep {to} once ;

fpdc over the next fpdc ;

ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Row 10 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

dc in the next fpdc ;

ch 1, bpdc over the next 2 fpdc ;

fpdc + dc in the next fpdc ;

ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Once again our first and last dc 2-tog will work a ch-5 picot.

Row 11 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog + picot in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 2, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ;

ch 2, fpdc over the next 3 bpdc ;

ch 2, sc in the next dc ;

ch 2, sk next dc, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Row 12 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

[ch 1, dc in the next sc ;

ch 1, dc in the same sc] ;

ch 1, bpdc in the next 3 fpdc ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Row 13 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

[ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp] ;

rep [to] once ;

sc over the next 3 bpdc ;

sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

rep [to] 2 times ;

ch 2, sk next dc, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Once again we will work our post stitch over the stitch in Row 12, skipping the sc of Row 13.

Row 14 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;

{ch 1, bpdc in the next fpdc ;

dc in the next sc ; bpdc in the next fpdc} ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Row 15 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

{ch 1, fpdc in the next fpdc ;

dc in the next dc ;

fpdc in the next fpdc} ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 2, sk next dc, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Row 16 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

{bpdc in the next fpdc ;

dc in the next dc ; bpdc in the next fpdc} ;

sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Row 17 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ;

(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

{fpdc in the next bpdc ;

dc in the next dc ; fpdc in the next bpdc} ;

sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp. Turn

Row 18 : sl-st into the 1^st fpdc ; dc in the same fpdc ;

dc in the next dc ;

dc in the next fpdc. Turn

Rows 19 - 21 : dc in all 3 dc. Turn.

In the following row, we will work our pegs on either side.

For each peg, we will work a ch 5, sl-st into the 3^rd ch from hook, and sl-st in the last 2 ch back to the main violin handle to work the next set of stitches. Got it?

Row 23 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

Work 1^st peg ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

Work 2^nd peg. Turn.

Row 24 : Rep Row 23.

Row 25 : dc in all 3 dc. Turn.

In our last row, we will work a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hook) in the 2 corner sts, and a ch-5 picot in the centre dc.

Row 26 : sc + ch-3 picot in the 1^st dc ;

sc + ch-5 picot in the next dc ;

sc + ch-3 picot in the last dc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Violin bow : This involves craft more than crochet.

I wound yarn around a toothpick and added a bead at each end. I then ran a few rows of cotton yarn between the beads to make up the bow of our violin.

Basically look at a violin bow and enhance your little creation as much as you can to mimic the original. Be creative - have fun.

I am sure you enjoyed this! I know I did.

Please remember to credit the original designer (for the piano key scarf , violin and / or the chart) when you share your work.

Obviously, I’d appreciate a thumbs up credit as well for the effort in transcribing this chart for you.

Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns

Remember to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB page. Cheers.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/

OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/

Join me on YouTube at https://youtube.com/shyamanivas

And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas

Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/

Find me on Ravelry at ravelry.com/projects/shyamanivas/

Do also visit me at http://www.craftsy.com/user/2573073/pattern-store?_ct=cx-buvjdql&_ctp=my-pattern-store,manage

Have a great day and see you soon.

Here are some of other interesting miscellaneous home-use creations.

Have fun with these free patterns too