Saturday, 31 March 2018

PIANO TISSUE BOX COVER with VIOLIN MOTIF


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PIANO TISSUE BOX COVER with VIOLIN MOTIF

I just made this lovely piano inspired tissue box cover and it had a guitar on top of it.  This time, it is the same pattern on a differently shaped box with a violin adorning the top.

Oh, you do know that you can access all my older blogs through the labels on the right hand side of this blog, don’t you? 

Materials used : Today I’ve used some unbranded knitting cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook
General material info : The pattern is not yarn specific, which means you can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this lovely project. 

Skill level : Advanced


Stitches used :
Starting slip knot :This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. http://stitchesnscraps.com/tutorial-starting-chain-to-knot-or-not/

Magic circle :To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. 
How to work the fpdc :  yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete 

yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from front of stitch, around st and into the back of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One bpdc complete

Picot : ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hk. 


Instructions : Using U.S terminology
For the piano tissue box cover instructions, please check https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2018/02/piano-inspired-tissue-box-cover.html

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You can basically use the same idea to make this box to suit any sized tissue box. All you need to have are the Length / Width and Height of your tissue box ready on hand.  You can make this to fit any sized box.

And once you have done the tissue box base, let’s make our lovely violin.
Please note the pattern uses post stitches and needs advanced crochet skills.

There is a lot of thought that has gone into the original pattern for the violin by Chinami Horiba which is a free chart from Ravelry.  As there is no write up, these are my notes as I work on my own project.

For the original chart, please check https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/violin-motif



We start with a magic circle and work a series of stitches. 
We will not pull the magic circle close. 
We will work side to side in rows for the whole pattern.
The first and last stitches worked will be a dc 2-tog, which is a decorative stitch to form a puff/ bobble-like stitch and is not a decrease stitch.  So we will work the dc 2-tog all in one stitch. 

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Start Row 1 : with a magic circle. 
Work dc 2-tog ; (ch 1, dc ; ch 1, 2 dc ; ch 1, dc) ; dc 2-tog all in the magic circle.  
Pull lightly but do not close.  Turn.

From this row on, we will work post stitches all the way down the centre of the violin. 
In the following row, we’ll work fpdc. Check the top of this blog for a ‘how to’.

Row 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; fpdc over the next 2 dc ;
2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
[ch 1, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp]. Turn

In the following row we will work bpdc over the fpdc. 
Once again, check the top of this blog for a ‘how to’.

Row 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sk next dc, 2 dc each in the next 2 dc ;
[bpdc over the next fpdc ; dc in the same bpdc ; bpdc over the next fpdc] ;
2 dc each in the next 2 dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp.  Turn

Row 4 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 2, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ;
[ch 3, sc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 2 times ; 
ch 1, sc in the next 4 sts ;
rep [to] 3 times ; 
ch 2, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Now in this row, we will work a fpdc over the fpdc of Row 3, skipping or working over the sc of Row 4.  This is only for that centre bit, as we are creating the handle / of the violin

Row 5 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ; rep [to] once ;
ch 1, {fpdc over the next fpdc ; dc in the same fpdc} ;
rep {to} once ; fpdc over the next fpdc ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Row 6 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, sc in the next 5 sts ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep [to] once ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

In the following row, we will work a ch-5 picot, which is (ch 5, sl-st in the 5th ch from hk).
Please check the top of this blog for a ‘how to work a picot’

Row 7 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog + picot in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, {fpdc over the next fpdc ; dc in the next sc} ;
rep {to} once ; fpdc over the next fpdc ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Row 8 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, dc in the next sc ;
ch 1, {bpdc over the next fpdc ; dc in the next dc} ;
rep {to} once ; bpdc over the next fpdc ;
dc in the next sc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Row 9 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sk next dc, {fpdc over the next fpdc ; sk next dc} ;
rep {to} once ; fpdc over the next fpdc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Row 10 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
dc in the next fpdc ;
ch 1, bpdc over the next  2 fpdc ; fpdc + dc in the next fpdc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Once again our first and last dc 2-tog will have a ch-5 picot.
Row 11 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog + picot in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 2, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch 2, fpdc over the next 3 bpdc ;
ch 2, sc in the next dc ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Row 12 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
[ch 1, dc in the next sc ; ch 1, dc in the same sc] ;
ch 1, bpdc in the next 3 fpdc ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Row 13 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
[ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp] ; rep [to] once ;
sc over the next 3 bpdc ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Once again we will work our post stitch over the stitch in Row 12, skipping the sc of Row 13.
Row 14 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; [ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
{ch 1, bpdc in the next fpdc ; dc in the next sc ; bpdc in the next fpdc} ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep [to] once ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Row 15 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
{ch 1, fpdc in the next fpdc ; dc in the next dc ; fpdc in the next fpdc} ;
ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, sk next dc, dc 2-tog + picot in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Row 16 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
{bpdc in the next fpdc ; dc in the next dc ; bpdc in the next fpdc} ;
sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Row 17 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
{fpdc in the next bpdc ; dc in the next dc ; fpdc in the next bpdc} ;
sk next dc, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same last ch-1 sp.  Turn

Row 18 : sl-st into the 1st fpdc ; dc in the same fpdc ; dc in the next dc ; dc in the next fpdc.  Turn

Rows 19 - 21 : dc in all 3 dc.  Turn.

In the following row, we will work our pegs on either side.  For each peg, we will work a ch 5, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hook, and sl-st in the last 2 ch back to the main violin handle to work the next set of stitches.  Got it?

Row 23 : dc in the 1st dc ; Work 1st peg ; dc in the next 2 dc ; Work 2nd peg.  Turn.

Row 24 : Rep Row 23.

Row 25 : dc in all 3 dc.  Turn.
In our last row, we will work a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hook) in the 2 corner sts, and a ch-5 picot in the centre dc.

Row 26 : sc + ch-3 picot in the 1st dc ; sc + ch-5 picot in the next dc ; 
sc + ch-3 picot in the last dc.  
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Violin bow :  This involves craft more than crochet.  

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I wound yarn around a toothpick and added a bead at each end.  I then ran a few rows of cotton yarn between the beads to make up the bow of our violin.  
Basically look at a violin bow and enhance your little creation as much as you can to mimic the original.  Be creative - have fun.



I am sure you enjoyed this!  I know I did.
Please remember to credit the original designer (for the piano key scarf , violin and / or the chart) when you share your work.  Obviously, I’d appreciate a thumbs up credit as well for the effort in transcribing this chart for you. J

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