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Saturday, 29 April 2017

AN UNISEX FULL-SLEEVED BABY SWEATER

a free crochet baby jacket pattern

AN UNISEX FULL-SLEEVED BABY SWEATER

This pattern has been chosen for the lovely color gradient and I was requested to make this in shaded colors that would suit a baby girl.  The lovely ICE Batik Turkish acrylic yarn does the trick to a “T” I’d say.

Once again, this is not my pattern but just my notes when I make my own exclusive and individual project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 1.5 skeins of the Turkish ICE Batik yarn  (Lilac Orange Yellow Light Green # 29611) , and a little bit of our lovely Indian Vardhaman Millenium Acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook

Skill level : Intermediate.  

Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.


Pattern Instructions :
For this full sleeved sweater, I’ve used the free pattern from http://patternsforcrochet.co.uk/hooded-jacket-usa.html... and here's the photograph that inspired me to start on this project.



I started with my favourite and chosen foundation single crochet stitch and have worked 55 fsc for the start row.

As the designer started with a chain, the pattern is written differently and I am just going to note down what I have done with my fsc start.  If you too are going to use the fsc start, then please follow these instructions below…. Else head off to the pattern link above for this cute pattern.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next 7 dc ; 3 dc in the next fsc ; dc in the next 8 fsc ; 3 dc in the next fsc ; dc in the next 19 fsc ; 3 dc in the next fsc ; dc in the next 8 fsc ; 3 dc in the next fsc ; dc in the last 8 fsc.  Turn.

You can get back to the pattern sheet now for the rest of the pattern.


For the border, I worked three rounds with Vardhaman Millenium and then ended it with one round of ICE Batik yarn.

I have used press buttons for my project, so that the flap neatly closes one over the other.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

If you are looking for more children wear free patterns, check my Pinterest link at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/my-children-wear-made-by-me/ for some cute cocoons, diaper / cap / booties sets and an awesome sleepsack.

Do also check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/  or just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/


And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Have a great day and see you soon. J

Thursday, 27 April 2017

AN ELMO-INSPIRED STUFFED TOY

free crochet amigurumi pattern

AN ELMO-INSPIRED STUFFED TOY

Elmo from the Muppet Show has always been a cutie favourite.  This project has been specially requested for someone special who’s having a baby soon.
Once again, this is not my pattern but just my notes when I make my own exclusive and individual project.

Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon Acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook

For this full really cute Elmo inspired stuffed toy, I’ve used the free pattern from http://amioutlet.blogspot.in/2015/04/free-crochet-pattern-elmo.html based on this inspirational photograph by the designer.


One quick idea here – (once again, I do not claim this as my own, as I saw this shared sometime back on Facebook – but I just can’t find the link to credit the person who has thought this up).  
When making stuffed toys, decide how much stuffing you need, and then push that stuffing into a stocking net, tie a neat small knot and then stuff this neat stuffed stocking into the required space.  
This ensures that you do not have little bits and pieces of stuffing coming out of your work/gaps.  
This is especially important when stuffing for toys that kids will use (and stuff into their mouths) and also with animal toys.

So basically what I’ve done is use an end of a stocking net and stuffed it with the required stuffing, and then run a round of running stitch along the open end to close the opening.  
Once you have used one end of the stocking, you will end up with openings on both ends – i.e. a tube – so I just ran running stitches on both ends.  If you can manage a neat small knot, then you could knot both ends of your stocking with the stuffing inside as well.

Just remember that once you have it knotted (or stitched) up , you can’t really remove any stuffing, so do not over stuff.. and trial and error will take you the rest of the way.  Happy creating.

and now for some cool photo-bombing and showin' off..  

free crochet amigurumi pattern
Peekaboo..can you see me?

free crochet amigurumi pattern
c'mon..let's get to bed

free crochet amigurumi pattern
Snuggle tiiiime

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/  or just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/


And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Have a great day and see you soon. J
























Wednesday, 26 April 2017

A MINNIE MOUSE INSPIRED COCOON

free crochet Minnie Mouse cocoon pattern

A MINNIE MOUSE INSPIRED COCOON

I have seen Mickey Mouse inspired cocoons on the internet, but have not come across a Minnie Mouse version.  I’m not sure if there is one, but here’s what I’ve done in my creation.

Materials used : Today I’ve used a combination of yarns – some Indian Vardhaman Millenium, some Oswal Cashmilon, Caron Simply Soft and some Baby Soft acrylic yarn , using a 4 mm crochet hook.

Skill level : Intermediate.  

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

How to front post single crochet :fpsc :


How to make thin yarn bulky :  A pretty neat video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7mug_y4BZM&feature=youtu.be



Part 1 : The cocoon

free crochet cocoon pattern

For our cocoon, we’ll start with pink yarn (which is M.Mouse’s skirt) and then change to black yarn (for her socks) and finally end with pink yarn (for a bow).  On top of the skirt, you can add on some circular motifs (for the polka dots).

You can make this pattern for any size from a baby to a full grown young lady.  All you’ll need to do is increase the number of rounds you work for each colour and you’ll have it done.

We are starting at the top of our cocoon and working our way up to the bottom.
So if you are working this for a  taller /older girl, you will just need to decide when to change colours (and obviously much after I’ve said we should) – thus adjusting the length.
For the width (if making for a taller / older child), you will, obviously, continue working increase rounds for a lot longer, till you get the width required.

Yes, I hear you.. how do you figure out how long or how wide?  
Well, that totally depends on you and the child.  
If you have the child handy, have her lie down on a newspaper, and cut a largish half oval around her, starting at her chest, going all the way around her from under her feet to the other side of her chest.  
Ensure that you keep “squiggle space”.  
Keep this handy map when you’re working and check against it every once in a while.  It will also be smart to approximately draw a marked line for where you want your socks / shoes, to save you time when you are actually working on the project, but you figured that out yourself as well, I’m sure!

For this project, you can choose your stitch of choice.. Use either sc / hdc or dc depending on how thick a yarn you’re using and how dense a finished project you desire.
Remember that using dc means that you are increasing the ‘gaps’ and ‘holes’ between stitches.

Finally, I have used a Baby Soft 3-ply baby yarn for the first part and it is way thinner than the slightly darker pink Caron Simply Soft yarn, so I used the video link I’d recently seen online on how to make thin yarn bulky instantly (Link given at the top of this blog) and I am *thrilled* to say that it not only works beautifully, but is so darn easy – one thing new learned in this project, so yaay!

I am opting to use hdc, and will write my pattern instructions that way.
Let’s hook away…

Start Row 1 (Using pink yarn) : with a fdc sufficient to go easily around the chest of the child you are making this for. Turn.

So what I am going to do is work in rows for the first few rows, keeping one side open, and then I will join up and work in rounds.  This is to ease a baby in.
However, you can opt to work in rounds from this round itself, and if you do so, please join with a sl-st to the 1st st, and then work in rounds all through, joining at the end of each round.

As you are starting with a fdc chain, it’s important to keep it flat when you join. 
Check out this video on how to keep your chain flat without twisting when working with a longer chain length

Round 2 : (Increase round ) : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : (Increase round ) : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : (Increase round ) : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ;
*hdc in the next 2 hdc ; 2 hdc in the next hdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 5 - 7 : (Increase round ) : Rep Round 4, increasing 12 sts every round.

We’ve completed the little shoes, and we’ll now change to white (or off white) yarn for the socks.  Fasten off black yarn.

Rounds 8 : (Increase round ) : Rep Round 4, increasing 12 sts every round.

Round 9 :  hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc.

Rounds 10 - 11 : Rep Rounds 8 & 9.

We will now continue without any further increase. Rep Round 9 without any further increase, but before you go ahead, please read the notes below.

And here’s where we get a chance to show off our creativity.

Once I’d reached the end of the skirt length, I’ve decided to work in a small frill all around the base of the skirt as well as along the side of the opening.  The side opening will hold the buttons, so the frill will neatly hide that bit up along with looking cute, methinks.

For the bottom bit of the skirt frill, we will work in front loops only.  We will then use the free back loops to attach the black yarn (for socks) and work the lower part of our cocoon.  For the sides of the skirt (side opening I mean), you can use either just the front loops or both loops. 
Finally, when working along the vertical bars, remember that each dc vertical bar is equal to 2 sc/sts.  There is no stitch count for our frill pattern here, so as long as you get the first round of ch-sps evenly worked out, it doesn’t matter.

Frill Round 1 : sc in the 1st st ; *ch 2, sk next st, sc in the next st* ; rep *to* all the way till the corner st ; (ch 2, sc in the same st) in the corner st ; rep *to* all the way till the end.
Remember that when working along the vertical bar of the dc, you will work ch 2, and then sc in the space between 2 dc.

Frill Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-sp ; (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sl-st in the same ch-sp ; sl in the next ch-sp) all in the 1st ch sp and in each ch-sps all around. 
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Now here’s a quick tweak.  I’m using a pretty thick yarn and this border works for me, but if you are using a thinner one and want a frillier frill, then work 3 dc in that sp OR (ch 3, 1 dc, 1 trc, 1 dc, ch 3, sc) all in the same ch-sp and see how your frill goes nice a frillier.  Have fun creating.

Right then.. we’ve completed the skirt portion, and we’re now going to work in rounds for the lower part of our cocoon.
So first put your two skirt portions together and we will join them up when we are working the first round with the black yarn.

Attach your black yarn at one end of the skirt and work in rounds from here on.

So there are two ways in which we can start this portion.  I tried both, and they both work.  It’s just that each way shows the black yarn (at the end of the pink) in a different way – so check which works for you.

Socks Round 1 : Turn your work around such that you have the wrong side facing you.  Sc in the 1st st and in each st all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  You will be working in the free loops of this last round of the skirt , having used the other loop for the frill.

I have done a second way to attach as well.

Socks Round 1 Alternate : Turn your work around such that you have the wrong side facing you.  Front Post Single Crochet in the 1st st and in each st all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

For a “how to do a fpsc” please check the top of this blog.

For the next round on , you will work one st in each st all around using the black yarn till you have the length needed for the cocoon.

Here is a second tweak idea.  If you want the bottom portion a little rounded and tighter, then you could work your decrease stitches in the form of a sc 2-tog / hdc 2-tog or a dc 2-tog (depending on which stitch you have used to work thus far).  This will just give the bottom portion a small curve, and if you decide to do this, I’d suggest that you work in a gradual decrease every alternate round.

When you reach the length needed for your cocoon, fasten off and leave a tail.

Finishing : To close the bottom of your cocoon, work a running stitch (which is just passing your yarn with the embroidery needle in and out of your work in regular distance loosely) all around the last round.  Pull lightly to close.  Work a few more rounds of stitches through this last pulled round to get it tighter and neatly closed.  I usually like to work a round of stitches on both the inside and the outside of my last round, for a neat finish.



Part 2 : The pink bow


free crochet pattern

Start : (using pink yarn) : with 25 fsc.  Turn.
Note : The start number of fsc does not matter.  Just ensure that the length you start with goes from one side to the other of the base of your cocoon OR as long as you want your bow to be (side to side / lengthwise)

Row 1 : hdc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till end.  Turn.

Once again, this is just a rough estimate for you and you can decide how wide you want your bow, and work accordingly.
Rows 2 - 9 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end.  Turn.

When you are happy with the width of your bow, fasten off and leave a long tail.

Finishing : Sl-st in the 1st 12 sts (or work with an embroidery needle and work a running stitch all the way to the centre of the bow).  Now holding the right side facing you, wrap the yarn several times around the centre of the bow, cinching it neatly.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Attach this bow to the centre bottom of your cocoon and you’re almost done with this superb creation.


Part 3 : The polka dots

The final embellishment I’ve added to my cocoon are white polka dots.  Now you can well finish off without this too, but having worked so far, heck, let’s get this done too.

Start : with a magic circle and 12 dc in that circle.  
Fasten off and leave a long tail to attach.

Finishing : Using an embroidery needle, attach the polka dots all over the pink “dress” portion of your cocoon. 

The final thing that you will need to do is attach buttons on either side of your openings and ta da, we’re done with this awesome creation!


Part 4 : The cute lil cap

free crochet cap pattern


For the cute lil cap , do visit me at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2017/03/more-mouse-madness-pair-of-minne-mouse.html

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/  or just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/


And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.  

Have a great day and see you soon. J

Check out some of my earlier patterns for blankets and cocoons.