Sweet Nothings Crochet: CRISS-CROSS LADIES TOP

CRISS-CROSS LADIES TOP

I was recently gifted this really lovely cotton yarn in one of my favourite colours.. rich purple.. and I was sure that I needed something really niiice for it! Thanks to the lovely +Clara Isabel and her wonderful shares, I found something unique that I think will do this yarn justice.

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As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

Materials used : Today I’ve used a really lovely Sullivans International knitting cotton yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook.

I’ve made a Size 34” top and used about 120 gms of yarn.

For Indians : Sullivans International Knitting cotton yarn is like our Indian Red Rose or Anchor knitting cotton in thickness, or the superb Indian H.P Peecock knitting cotton

Skill level : Intermediate.

This pattern involves going back and forth on the same line to make a “Cross” stitch which is a little complicated. That said, once you get going, it’s a dream pattern.. so come along and let’s work on this together

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today. The pattern for the front and the back are the same - so we make two pieces and then attach the sides, working the sleeves in separately.

Our pattern starts pretty easily and regularly from the base of the top and we then work our way to the shoulders of the top. We could do a small decrease halfway up the top to give it a neat shape, and then we work straight to the armhole. The sleeve is a simple lacy open one that has a straight edge, and seems pretty easy up front. But let’s get started, and see how this one turns out.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 3 + 2

Our pattern also uses what I’m going to call a “Cross Stitch” or “X”-st. So in this stitch, we will make a crossed dc st.

Visualise this. You will first work the one leg of the cross (our 1^st dc) which will sk two stitches and be worked in the next stitch, and then we will work on the second leg of the cross (our 2^nd dc), for which we will go back to the 1^st skipped st, with one stitch in between both the 1^st & 2^nd dc’s that make our crossed stitch.

Does this make sense?

BACK or FRONT : (Make two)

Start with fdc needed for half the round waist measure.

Our “X”-st here is (sk 2 sts , dc in the next st ; ch 1, and working back over the skipped stitches, leave one st and work in the next dc) worked over 3 sts.

To clarify, lets number our stitches from the end.

So we start all our patterned “X”-st rows with a dc. And now our numbers are being counted right to left.. where St # 1 is the right edge we’re starting with.

So dc in St # 1, Skip sts #2 & #3, dc in St # 4 ; now working back for the “X”-st, sk St # 3, and dc in St # 2. First “X”-st done.

For next “X”-st ; sk Sts # 5 & # 6, dc in st# 7 ; the working back for the “X”-st , sk St # 6 and dc in St # 5.

I’m sure this makes sense now J

You will continue working this “X”-st all the way to the end, and end with a dc in that last st.

The pattern instructions will only read ‘work “X”-st’ henceforth.. and this will mean that you will sk the st and work the crossed stitch according to the instructions above.

Right then. Just so I can get a bit of a flat border, I’ve decided to do a set of post stitches for a few rows. You need not do this, and can work the “X”-st pattern straight off.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fdc ; fpdc in each fdc till the 2^nd last fdc ;

dc in the last fdc. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ; bpdc in each st till the 2^nd last st ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ; fpdc in each st till the 2^nd last st ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 4 : Rep Row 2.

If you are happy with the little base we’ve created, go ahead with the pattern, else rep Rows 3 and 2 once more and then work the pattern.

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st dc, (sk the next 2 dc and dc in the next dc ;

ch 1, and working back towards the previous st,

sk the next dc and dc in the previous dc) ;

rep (to) all the way till the last dc ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 6 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

(sc in the next dc ; sc in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) all the way till the last dc ;

sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 7 : dc in the 1^st sc,

(sk the next 2 sc and dc in the next sc ;

ch 1, and working back towards the previous st,

sk the next sc and dc in the previous sc) ;

rep (to) all the way till the last sc ;

dc in the last sc. Turn.

.. and just like that we’ve completed one repeat of our lovely “X” –st pattern.
Rep Rows 6 & 7 till your top reaches the shoulder level, as this is a straight armhole, without shaping.

Important note : The “X”-st pattern itself as you see is simple.. so here’s a twist to make it different. If you work the 2^nd leg of that “X”-st under the 1^st leg of the stitch, you get one type of “X”-st and if you work it over the 1^st leg, you get a totally different variation of the same stitch.

So have fun trying both out and lets see what you like .. when you share and remember to tag both me as well as my blog. Thanks

Work till shoulder level and fasten off leaving a tail for attachment.

Once you’ve finished one side, repeat all instructions for the other side as well.

Attach the sides and shoulders for your top and we’ll then work on the cute little sleeves, which are also a new and innovative type of sleeve, methinks.

Sleeve : (Make two)

This really unusual sleeve is worked in rows up and down to ‘create’ the length of the sleeve. We will then join up the little rows that we’re working to ‘make’ a round sleeve. Yes, this sounds weird, but this seems to be the way that this sleeve has been created.

Start : For this round, I’ve just run a round of sc all around the edge of the sleeve, ensuring that you have an even number of stitches all around.

Join with a sl-st.

Round 1 : dc in the 1^st sc and in each sc all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

Now our next row/round is different from sleeves you’ve probably made in the past. We will work in a continuous round, BUT we will work it one ROW at a time.

So we will start at the 1^st dc and work a chain from the dc, and then we will work back down this chain in hdc till we reach the dc of the 1^st round.

So this is Part 1.

For the Part 2, we will work along the dc of Round 1, to the next dc, and then once again work a chain and work down the chain.

That said, both the round and rows are worked in one continuous movement, so there’s no two “parts” to it per-se.

Got it, I hope.

I’ve worked 20 ch which works for me, but you work as many ch as you need for the sleeve length you need.

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Round 2 : ch 20 from the 1^st dc ; Turn ;

hdc in the 2^nd ch from hk ;

hdc in the next 18 ch, sl-st in the next dc (of Round 1) ;

sl-st in the next dc ;

*sc in the next dc ;

ch 20 from the next dc ; Turn ;

hdc in the 2^nd ch from hk ;

hdc in the next 19 ch, sl-st in the next dc (of Round 1)* ;

rep *to* till end ;

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

So basically we repeat instructions of round 2, and work a row of hdc as we work around the armhole.

Now here we can do this two ways :

a) At the end of the strips we made after Round 2, you can fasten off and re-attach your yarn at the end of your first ch-20 hdc strip ; or

b) You work sl-st all the way along the side of the 1^st ch-20 hdc strip to the top and work your next round from here.

So work whatever option you decide, and we’ll meet up at the top of the 1^st ch-20 hdc strip.

Now for our following round, we’re going to work in the horizontal bar of the hdc’s all around.

One tip : Each hdc ‘strip’ is done over 2 sc, so if , for eg, you have 70 sc in that first Round, then you will have 35 hdc strips after Round 2, and that means that in Round 3, when we make this into a round, this should fit your upper round arm.

So if this does not fit, no panic.

Figure out how much larger you need the armhole, and how many ‘hdc strips’ you’d need for that (by measuring width of the hdc strip etc.. but you got that, I’m sure)

Then just rip / frog upto Round 1, and add a few more sc, ensuring you add 2 sc per hdc strip, and then re-work your sleeve.

Yes *just frog* is an irritation – but at least its only three small rounds – not a whole project

Round 3 : sc in the top of the 1^st hdc strip ;

sc in the next hdc and in each hdc till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

For the last round, there are two options. You can work either a dc, or a fpdc to match the first row of stitches at the base

of your dress.

Round 4 : dc or fpdc in the 1^st sc ;

dc or fpdc in the each sc all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

One final suggestion : Just before Round 4, do ensure that the armhole / round arm fit.

You could also opt to do two rounds of dc or fpdc – but I’ve ended with just one finishing round.

Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns

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I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go