Monday, 18 April 2016

JUST A YOKE



JUST A YOKE

I was gifted one ball of this really lovely Aunt Lydia bamboo yarn and I having used a part of it for a really cute little skirt, I had just this little bit left.. too little for a  large project, too much to just throw away.  I finally figured that a yoke would be best, knowing that if I ran short (sure that I was going to), then the light brown /beige would be the perfect combination for it anyway.. just like in the skirt .J
Now as I started on my yoke, I had no idea of how large (or small) it was going to be – and its ended up as the perfect size for a friend who wears 3XL.  I just gifted it to her, and she attached it onto her kurta and sent me a picture so soon. Awww, aren't I just the luckiest? 

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279834836635/

Materials used : Today I’ve used the superbly soft Aunt Lydia’s 10 crochet thread (100% viscose from bamboo) as well as Indian Red Rose knitting cotton yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook.
For Indians : This cotton is a little like our Red rose knitting cotton in thickness, but way softer.  So you could use our Indian Anchor, Red rose or Shilpa knitting cotton.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced.
The stitches used throughout are pretty easy, but the combinations and calculations take a little work. 

Abbreviations used :
fdc : Foundation double crochet                                dc : Double crochet
ch(s) : chain(s                                                                ch-sp : chain space
sp(s) : space(s)                                                                 rep : Repeat
hk : hook                                                                        yo : Yarn over
sk : Skip                                                                            lp(s) : Loop(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together


Stitches used :
Magic circle :To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

How to crochet the treble / triple 2-together (trc 2-tog) : If you’ve worked a dc 2-tog, then this is a lot like that, just that you work it with a trc.
*yo two times, insert hk into st ; yo and pull up a lp ; [yo, draw through 2 lps] ; rep [to] once ; rep *to* once more ; yo and draw through all 3 lps on hk.  One trc 2-tog complete.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8 .  We will use the ch-3 picot for our project here today – which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 1st ch)

So how are we working this yoke?
There are two sets of motifs here – one is the centre circle and then there are four side triangles.  We then have this lovely pattern that joins the two motifs and finally a small border to just bring it all together to this lovely yoke.  
For convenience, I’ve divided it into several parts, so do pay attention and mark which part you’re on when working.

Excited ? Let’s start.



Part 1 :

Start : with a magic circle and 16 sc in that circle.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 1: dc in the 1st sc ; *ch 1, dc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* all around; ch 1, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round2: sc in the 1st dc ; *2 sc in the next ch-1 sp ;sc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* all around;2 sc in the last ch-1 sp and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3: dc in the 1st sc ; *ch 3, sk next 2 sc, dc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* all around; ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4: sk in the 1st dc , sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp, 
(1 sc ; 1 hdc ; 2 dc ; 1 hdc ; 1 sc) all in the same ch-3 sp ; 
*sk next dc, rep (to) all in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around; sk last dc, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, we’ll use our dc 2-tog.  
Check under “Stitches used” for a “how-to”.
Here we will do a little different a stitch.  So we will work two dc 2-togs. 
We work one dc 2-tog in one stitch, then skip the next four stitches and work the 2nd dc 2-tog in that next st, so we will have these two dc 2-togs coming together as one, and then a ch-sp worked next.

Round 5 : sl-st in the 1stsc, hdc and dc , dc 2-tog in the same dc ; 
*ch 4, dc 2-tog in the next dc, (sk next 2 hdc’s and 2 sc’s, dc 2-tog in the next dc)* ; 
rep *to* all around, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sl-st in the 1st ch-4 sp, (1 sc ; 1 hdc ; 5 dc ; 1 hdc ; 1 sc) all in the same 1st ch-4 sp ; 
*sk next dc 2-tog, rep (to) in the next ch-4 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : sl-st in the 1st 4 sts, sc in the next dc ; 
*ch 5, (sk next 2 dc , next 2 hdcs ; 2 scs and next 2 dc), sc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 8 : sc in the 1st sc ; *7 sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 : sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ; 
*2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 5 sc* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 10 : sc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 6 sc ; 
*2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 7 sc* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 : trc 2-tog in the 1st sc ; 
*ch 5, trc 2-tog in the next sc ; sk next 6 sc, trc 2-tog in the same sc* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp ; (1 sc ; 1 hdc ; 7 dc ; 1 hdc ; 1 sc) all in the same 1st ch-5 sp ; 
*sk next trc 2-togs, rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We have 24 little shells or scallops around our motif right now.  
We will use 22 of these shells and leave the last 2 un-used. 
(i.e We will use only 22 shells).

 Round 13 : sl-st into 6th st of the 1st shell / scallop ; sc in that same 6th st ; 
(ch 5, sk next 10 sts, sc in the next st) ; 
rep (to) 20 times till the last 2 shells, sk last 2 shells and Turn.
  
Round 14 : sc in the 1st sc ; (7 sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next sc) ; 
rep (to) 20 times till the last sc.  Fasten off.

We’ve completed the first part of our yoke – i.e Part 1 DONE !! YES!! J



Part 2 : In this part we’ll work four little triangles that are marked as “A” in the charts.  Make four of these little triangles.




Start Row 1 : with 25 fdc.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc  ; 
dc in each dc till the last 3 dc ; dc 3-tog over the last 3 dc.  Turn. (21 sts)

Row 3 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc  ; 
dc in each dc till the last 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.  Turn. (19 sts)

Row 4  : Rep Row 2. (15 sts)

Row 5 : Rep Row 3. (13 sts)

Row 6 : Rep Row 2. (9 sts)

Row 7 - 9 : Rep Row 3. (7 ; 5 ; 3 sts)

Last Row 10 : dc 3-tog over the 3 dc.

Fasten off and leave a tail. We will need this tail in two of the four triangles – to join up in Part 4, so keep a longish one… say 6”.,, but that’s just for two triangles. The other two, you could weave in ends.

Make a total of four of these triangles.



Part 3 : In this part we’ll attach our four little triangles to the main motif we made in Part 1.






So keeping the two unworked shells / scallops as our starting space, we’re going to work on the stitches to the left of them.

1.       Starting with the 1st triangle “A”, sk the 1st sc and attach your triangle over the next 25 sts
2.      Sk the next 23 sts and attach the 2nd Triangle “A”
3.      Sk the next 23 sts and attach the 3rd Triangle “A”
4.      Sk the next 23 sts and attach the last Triangle “A”


Part 4 : In this final part we’ll work all around the motifs and the triangles to bring it all together.

Just before we start, let’s do a small pre-prepartion.  So yet again, let’s keep our work facing the same way.  
So keep it such that the two unworked shells / scallops face away from you and are on the top.

Re-attach your yarn at the pointed end of the right hand side triangle “A”.  
Work 31 ch. Fasten off.

Now let’s re-attach the yarn at the pointed end of the left hand side triangle “A”.  
Work 31 ch. Turn.

We will be using all 31 chain so ensure that you do not pull that last chain too tight.

We are now on the left hand side of our work, and we will start on the flat portion to join the four triangles as well as the centre motif (those un-used 23 sts between two triangles).  Simple enough ? 

 There are multiple instructions in different set of brackets / parenthesis in the following row. Please stay alert.

Row 1 : dc in each of the 1st 31 ch ; 15 dc along the side of the first triangle ; 
*dc in the next sc ; (dc in the next 5 sc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 sc) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; dc in the next sc* ; 
[16 dc along the side of the next triangle ; 
< 3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the corner of the same triangle >
17 dc along the second side of the same triangle] ; 
rep *to* once ; 
{17 dc along the side of the next triangle ; rep < to > one ; 16 dc along the second side of the same triangle} ; 
rep *to* once ; 15 dc along the side of the last triangle ; dc in each of the last 31 ch. Turn

Phew ! We’re past the ‘worst’part ! J

Row 2 : sc in the 1st 2 dc ; *ch 4, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to * till the 1st corner ; 2 sc in the ch-1 sp at the corner ; 
then rep *to* till the next corner and 2 sc in the ch-1 sp at the next corner ; 
finally rep *to* all the way to the end.  Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp ; 
*ch 4, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp* ; 
rep *to * till the ch-4 sp in the 1st corner , 2 dc in that corner ch-4 sp ; 
[ch 4, dc in the sc ; ch 1, dc in the next sc ; ch 4, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp] ; 
rep *to* till the ch-4 sp in the next corner , 2 dc in that corner ch-4 sp ; 
rep [to] in the same 2nd corner ; 
rep *to* till the last ch-4 sp ; 2 dc in that last ch-4 sp ; ch 2, dc in the last sc.  Turn

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the 1st ch-2 sp ; *ch 3, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp* ; 
rep *to* till the ch-4 sp at the 1st corner ; 2 dc in that ch-4 sp ; 
[ch 2, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 2, dc in the same ch-1 sp ; ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-4 sp] ; 
rep *to* till the last ch-4 sp of the second corner ; 2 dc in that last ch-4 sp ; 
rep [to] in the 2nd corner ; rep *to* till the last ch-2 sp ; 
dc in that last ch-2 sp ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; *3 dc in the ch-3 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* till the ch-2 sp at the end ; 
[2 dc in the ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next (corner ) ch-2 sp ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in the same corner ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ; 
2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc] ; 
rep *to* till the ch-2 sp at the next corner ; 
rep [to] in that corner and then rep *to* all the way to the end ; 
dc in the last 2 dc.  Turn.

Our last row is a little complicated.  Take a quick look at the chart.  
We are going to work a row of dc 2-tog and ch-4 sps all around (well, almost all around) the yoke.  I say ‘almost’ as we will work on the outer edge, and then along the inner edge.

So choice time again –
1.       We start from one outer edge, go all along to the opposite edge (as we’ve been working all along) and then we sl-st along that top edge of the yoke till we reach the inner edge of our yoke, which will run along the top of the two inner triangles as well as those two unworked shells.  So this is Option 1
2.      OR Option 2 , we will work the outer edge, and then at the opposite edge, you fasten off and then re-attach your yarn for the inner edge.

I am not sure which Option you will choose, so I will just write the instructions for outer edge and then along the inner edge, and hope that you and I are on the same page till the end.

Just fyi, I am choosing Option 1, to avoid yet another fasten off and weave in – lazy me. J

Finally, along the inner edge , you will need to work your dc 2-tog sets along the edge, carefully spacing them out as you do not have the dc’s in between to skip and this is the portion that comes in the {to} instructions.

Row 6 : For the outer edge : dc 2-tog in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 3, dc 2-tog in the next dc ; sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till the last dc at the 1st corner ; dc 2-tog in that last dc ; 
[dc 2-tog in the next ch-2 sp ; dc tog in the next dc] ; 
rep *to* till the last dc at the 2nd corner ; 2 dc 2-tog in that last dc ; 
rep [to] once ; rep *to* till the end ; HERE YOU CHOOSE YOUR OPTION ;

For the inner edge : dc 2-tog in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, dc 2-tog in the next dc ; sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) till you are 4 dc from the 1st corner ; 
{dc 2-tog in that 4th dc , sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in the next dc} ; 
rep {to} till you’re at the edge of the triangle and just off the two un-worked shells ; 
ch 4, sl-st in the sc of the 1st unworked shell ;

Note : You could fasten off here and re-attach at the sc at the other end of the next shell OR you could sl-st in the next 19 sts ; sc in the next sc ;

ch 4, rep {to} till the next corner, dc 2-tog in that next corner ; 
sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in the next dc ; then rep (to) till the end.  

Now here we’ve ended at the inner edge of the yoke. So to ease the top edges, I’ve opted to sl-st all the way across the top and go back to where we started this row at.


Option 2 would be to fasten off at the end of this row, and then re-attach your yarn for the last and final row.

Yet again, as I do not know which option you’re using, I’m going to go with the inner edge and outer edge instructions.

Whichever start you choose, ensure that you are at the start st, where we started Row 6, 
(i.e top left hand side of the yoke)

In our final row, we will be working a shell st of (1 sc ; 2 hdc ; 3 dc ; 2 hdc ; 1 sc) all in the ch-4 sps between our dc 2-togs. 

Finally let’s add another Option of using a picot.  Check the top of this blog under Stitches used for a “how to”.
If you decide to use the picot, may I suggest you use it bang centre of the Shell st, which will be the 2nd dc of that 3-dc set.

Row 6 : For the outer edge : sl-st into the 1st ch-4 sp ; Shell st in the same ch-4 sp ; shell st in each ch-4 sp till end ; CHOOSE OPTION HERE
For the inner edge : sl-st into the 1st ch-4 sp ; Shell st in the same ch-4 sp ; shell st in each ch-4 sp till the ch-4 sp at the first corner , Shell st in that 1st corner ; sk the next dc 2-tog at the corner, and continue Shell st in the next ch-4 sp ; work Shell st in each ch-4 sp, ignoring the dc 2-tog at the next corner as well, and continue till the end.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

And can you believe how beautiful this yoke is !




Finishing :
Our finishing here is just weaving in and tidying up of all those loose ends. Ensure you glue it all down, as the worst thing is to have a little bit of thread peeping through where its not supposed to be and ruining all your hard work!

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

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 Have a great day and see you soon. J
  
I have a few yokes already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J








I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J