Tuesday, 26 June 2018

STRAPPY BEACH LADIES TOP - 1

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STRAPPY BEACH LADIES TOP - 1


This is an lovely strappy beach top that looks fantastic.  I’m itching to see how this turns out, so come along and let’s see how we make this lovely creation.  J

I have been inspired by this photo and a chart to create my own combination original pattern. Here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.

Materials used :  Today I’ve used ~ 4 skeins/balls of the superb Sullivan’s (Australia) knitting cotton yarn with a 2.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians : This pattern will work with  Milford Satin knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton & Aunt Lydia Bamboo Viscose 10 knitting cottons as well. 

Size : M/L : 34” – 36”

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level. 

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology
 sc : Single crochet                               ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                          sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                    hk : Hook
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                         yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                               
trc : Treble / Triple crochet

Instructions :  Using U.S Terminology

This lovely beach top starts from the centre front and is worked in rounds till about the armhole.  We then work side to side for the length of the top.  
This is a top down construction.

As we start centre front and work in circular rows, you must put your work down each row and ensure that it stays flat and does not buckle. 

The pattern I am working on is a combination of the chart, the yellow inspirational top and some other tweaks.  Come along, and let’s start.

Start Round 1 :  with a magic circle and 15 sc in that circle. Pull lightly to close, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

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From now on, we will work in rows.  We will not be using all the sc that we’ve just worked into the magic circle.
Row 2 :  dc in the 1st sc ;
(ch 1, 2 dc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) in the next 7 sc ;
dc in the next sc. Turn.  Leave rest of sc unworked.

Row 3 :  dc in the 1stdc ;
(ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) in the next 16dc ;
ch 1, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 2, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) in the next 16 sc ;
ch 2, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) till end ;
dc in the last dc.  Turn.

We will be working a “V”-st from here on, which will be (dc ; ch 3, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ; sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the last 3 dc ;
sk the next 2 dc, dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st ;
*sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the last “V”-st ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc ; “V”-st in the same dc ;
sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the last 3 dc ;
sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the last dc + dc in the last dc. Turn.

Small tweak : In case you feel that you want a slightly wider and quicker sideways growth, add a few dc in Row 7 (so 6 instead of 5) in Row 9. 
.. and if you add 1 dc, you will need to add a ch 1, between the “V”-sts when working Row 10
If you think the shaping is proceeding well, continue with rep of Rows 7 & 8.

Row 9 : Rep Row 7.

Row 10 : Rep Row 8.

Row 11 : Rep Row 7.

Row 12 :  dc in the 1st dc ; “V”-st in the same dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*ch 1, sk next 4 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the last “V”-st ;
ch 1, sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in the last dc + dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 13 : dc in the 1st dc ; 6 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st ;
*sk next 2 dc, 6 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the last “V”-st ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 14 : dc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, “V”-st in the same dc ;
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*ch 1, sk next 5 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the last 4 dc ;
ch 1, sk next 3 dc, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 15 : Rep Row 13.

Row 16 : sl-st past the 1st4 dc , sc in the next dc ;
ch 4, sk next 5 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
*ch 2, sk next 5 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till the last 9 dc ;
ch 4, sk next 5 dc, sc in the next dc. Turn.

Place your work on top of a well-fitting top and see if the yoke bit is sufficient. At this point, if the yoke portion fits, then continue with pattern – else rep Rows 15 and 16 till you have the yoke needed. 

The other thing that we need to figure out is just where you need to start on the next row. 
In my case, I will be starting on the 4th “V”-st from end, and working through till the 4th “V-st from the other end.   This will give me the shape for the armhole and the rest will become the yoke and top of shoulders.  Got it?

So after placing your work on top of your well-fitting top, see which “V”-st works for you.  Re-attach your yarn at that “V”-st and let’s work on.


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Row 17 : dc in the 1st dc ; 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st ;
*sk next 2 dc, 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp of the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the last “V”-st ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 18 : Rep Row 14.

Rep Rows 17 & 18 , increasing 1 dc in Row 17 every alternate row, till you get the length needed for your top.

What do I mean by “increasing 1 dc in Row 17 every alternate row”?
Row 17 has 7 dc in the ch-3 sp, but with each row, you may need to increase it to ensure that it sits flat and stretches across the body of the top.
So for Row 19 for eg, (which is rep of Row 17), I have worked 8 dc in the ch-3 sp.
This will mean that in Row 20 (which is rep of Row 18), you will need to work a ch-3 sp between “V”-sts.
All you need to ensure is that the rows stay flat each time.

So how do you carry on for the length?
What I’ve done is keep mapping my crochet top off the well-fitted top and check the shaping for the armhole.  Once the armhole has been shaped and I have the width of the top, basically continue working Rep of Rows 17 & 18, without any increases, till you reach the length needed for your top.  Got it?

Fasten off and weave in ends. 
Rep all instructions for the 2nd side of the top as well.

Once we have done front and back, we will work on the border for both the front and back continuously.

So let’s go off and complete the two halves and meet here shortly.
  
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