This is an exquisitely
interesting idea for a top, that caught my fancy.
This is similar to
another extra ordinary top I’ve made recently titled Spotted at Spotlight and the pattern is HERE
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Right then, let’s move
on with this “Out of the ordinary top”, shall we?
The full chart is right
at the end of this write up.
Skill Level : Advanced
While I am not trying to deter you from trying this pattern, which may I add has been tried and tested, it is not an easy pattern. Some of the pattern instruction rows are very detailed and long. There. are several parenthesis / brackets as the project progresses and you must take care to follow through.
Materials used : Peecock
knitting cotton ~ 250 gms (5 balls) , with a 3.00 mm
For Indians : Peecock
is an Indian knitting cotton from HP Industries and similar in thickness to our Anchor, Red rose or White Rose knitting cottons. Do also look at the superb
range of Alize yarns in cotton and bamboo.
For International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size made : Chest
: 34” ; Length : 25”
Gauge : measured
over one set of (3 dc in the ch-3 sp, ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp)
:
2 rows of (to) =
1” and 1 (to) across = ½”.
Gauge only given to
figure out sizing and yarn requirement.
Stitches used :
Using U.S terminology
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :
https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Abbreviations used :
sc : Single crochet.
dc : Double crochet ch : Chain
sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch
st(s) : Stitch(es)
yo : Yarn Over
lp(s) : Loop(s)
trc : Treble /
Triple crochet
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-together
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
Instructions : (Using
U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
This top (like it’s name) isn’t ordinary in any way.. and even in
construction.
I have worked this pattern as charted.
This pattern does not work with a stitch count.
I am not sure how one can make it larger, except by trying to work it with a larger hook, slightly heavier yarn and a looser tension.
I do not think this delicate pattern will look good with a bulky yarn - but one never knows till one tries.
It starts from under the armhole, so while it is worked 'top
down', it is not the traditional top-down!
The first row is in a round, and thereafter, you work in
rows.
There is a large flower first and then you get your pineapple
patterns that take you to other armhole dividing off for the neckline with the
lovely lacy pattern.
If you like out of the ordinary projects, you should check my Spotted at spotlight top - which has a lovely curved semicircular finish, where as this one has a flattish ‘regular’ (base line) finish.
This is not my original pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net. However, sadly there is no English written pattern to this superb work, so as I make my own creation, I’m writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.
This pattern has, as you have noticed, pineapples and more pineapples.. and as always, with such lovely intricate patterns, there are several combinations of stitch sequences. As the pattern grows, please pay attention to the different brackets / parenthesis that indicate different stitch sequences.
Instructions are given
for one side of your garment. You need to make two pieces, and then
attach them up together for the finished garment.
For the second side of
your garment, you will start again at the same first circle under the armhole,
and continue making the mirror image.
This top is one of my *popular* ones and has been made by several
people using this pattern. I think over time, we have sorted out all the
glitches.
As mentioned at the start, there are a lot of ch-sps and
parenthesis etc and it is confusing.
I have cut-pasted parts of the chart all
through for your convenience. Yes, some of the blown up images are slightly out of focus, but I've tried to do the best I could.
The full chart is at the bottom of this blog.
Do try and follow with the chart(s),as well
as the written instructions.
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
START with
a magic circle and work 12 sc in this circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Round 1 : dc
in 1st sc ;
*ch 1, dc in next sc* ;
rep from *to* end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Round 2 : *3
dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Note : From
the following row onward, we will not be working in rounds, but in
rows.
You will turn at the end
of every row, and we will be omitting some sts at the end, to give the side
edge and neck-edges for our project.
Row 3 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 4, sk 2 dc , dc in ch-1 sp ;
*ch 4, sk 3 dc, dc
in ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* 4 times .Turn.
Note : From
this row on we’ll only work on this set of sts.
You have left one half
of that first circle you’ve made.. and you’ll start your other half of project
from here – so you’ll re-join your yarn at this row and then do a mirror image
for the back of the vest.
Row 4 : sk
1st dc, 4 dc in the 1st ch-4 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next dc, 4 dc
in next ch-4 sp* ;
rep from *to* 4 times. Turn.
Row 5 : dc
in the 1st 4 dc ;
*ch 2, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep from *to* till end. Turn.
Row 6 : dc
in the 1st 4 dc ;
*ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
sk last dc. Turn.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.
Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo
Row 7 : 2
dc in the 1st dc , dc in next 3 dc ;
*ch 2, sc in ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, 2 dc in next dc ;
dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep from *to* 3 times
;
ch 2, sc in ch-3 sp ;
ch
2, 2 dc in next dc ;
dc in next dc, dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc
in the 1st 4 dc ;
*ch 3, sk both ch-2 sps
and sc ,
dc in the next 5 dc* ;
rep from *to* till
end. Turn.
Row 9 : dc
in the 1st 2 dc ,
2 dc in next dc , dc in next 2 dc ;
*ch 3, sc in ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc ;
dc in next 2 dc* ;
rep from *to* 3 times
;
dc in next 2 dc,
dc
2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 10 : dc
in the 1st 3 dc ;
*ch 4, sk both ch-2 sps
and sc , dc in the next 3 dc ;
2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc* ;
rep from *to* till end.
Turn.
Row 11 : dc
in the 1st 7 dc ;
*ch 3, sc in ch-4 sp ;
ch 3, dc in the next 7 dc* ;
rep from *to* 3 times
;
ch 3, sc in ch-4 sp ;
ch
3, dc in the next 3 dc . Turn.
Row 12 : dc
2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in next dc ;
*ch 5, sk both ch-sps
and sc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 1 , sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc* ;
rep from *to* till last
dc ;
ch 2, dc in same last
dc. Turn.
Row 13 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 3 , dc in next 3 dc ;
ch 2, dc in next
3 dc ;
*ch 3, sc in ch-5 sp ;
ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 2, dc in next 3 dc * ;
rep from *to* till last
3 dc ;
dc in last 2 dc.
Turn.
Row 14 : dc
in the 1st 2 dc ;
*ch 6, sk both ch-sps
and sc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 3, dc in next 3 dc* ;
rep from *to* till last
3-dc set ;
ch 3, dc in last
dc. Turn.
Row 15 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 3 , sc in 1st 3 ch-3 sp ;
ch 3 , sc in 1st 3 ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, dc in same ch-3
sp ; dc in next 3 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ; dc in next ch-6 sp ;
*ch 3 , sc in same ch-6
sp ;
ch 3, dc in same ch-6 sp
dc in next 3 dc
;
ch 3, dc in the next 3
dc ;
dc in next ch-6 sp* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-6 sp ;
dc in next ch-6 sp ;
ch 3 , sc in same
ch-6 sp ;
ch 3, sc in same ch-6 sp ;
dc in next 3dc
;
ch 3, dc in next dc, sk
last dc. Turn.
Row 16 : dc
in the 1st 2 dc ;
dc in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 4, sk both ch-sps
and sc, dc in next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next 4 dc ;
ch 3, dc in next 4 dc ;
dc in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep from *to* 4 times
;
ch 4, 2 dc in last
dc. Turn.
Row 17 : dc
in the 1st 2 dc ;
1 dc in the ch-4 sp ;
*ch 3, dc in same ch-4
sp ;
dc in the next 5 dc ;
ch 3, dc in next 5 dc ;
1 dc in the next ch-4 sp* ;
rep from *to* till last
ch-4 sp ;
ch 3, dc in same ch-4 sp
;
dc in next 2 dc, sk last dc. Turn.
Row 18 : dc
in the 1st 3 dc ;
3 dc in next ch-3 sp ;
dc in next 6 dc
;
*ch 4, dc in next 6 dc ;
3 dc in next ch-3 sp ,
dc in next 6 dc* ;
rep from *to* 3 times
;
ch 4, dc in last 6 dc ;
3 dc in ch-3 sp ;
dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in last dc. Turn.
Note : From this row on there is a decorative dc
2-tog or dc 3-tog that goes around your ‘diamond’. I am not sure which st
this is, so I am using my preferred dc 2-tog.
However,
you may use a dc 3-tog in this stitch space as well.. so as usual.. I’ve thrown
you a curve.. choices.. decisions!
In case you want to work a dc 3-tog, here's a video tutorial
Double crochet 3-tog : dc 3-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM
Row 19 : dc in the 1st dc
;
ch 3, dc 2-tog in same dc ;
ch 1, dc in the next 10 dc
;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc 2-tog in next
ch-1 sp ;
*ch 7, dc 2-tog in next ch-sp ;
ch 1
, sk next dc , dc in the next 11 dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc , dc 2-tog in the
next ch-sp* ;
rep from *to* till last 12 dc
;
dc 2-tog in next ch-sp ;
ch 1, sk
next dc ; dc in last 10 dc. Turn.
Row 20 : dc in the 1st 9
dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc , dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp ;
*ch 4, sk dc 2-tog, sc in the
ch-7 sp ;
ch 4, sk dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in next
9 dc ;
ch 1 , dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
ch 6, dc in
last dc. Turn.
Row 21 :
(Armhole end)
dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 5, sc in 1st ch-6 sp ;
ch 5, sk 1st dc
2-tog , dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in the next 7 dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc 2-tog in
next ch-1 sp ;
*ch 5, sc in next ch-4 sp ; ch 5, sc
in next ch-4 sp ;
ch 5 , sk next dc 2-tog , dc
2-tog in the next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in the next 7 dc ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in the next ch-1 sp
* ;
rep from *to* till end. Turn.
Row 22 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, dc 2-tog in same 1st dc
;
ch 1 , sk next dc,
dc in next 5 dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp ;
*ch 5, sk dc 2-tog
and 1st ch-5 sp ,
(3 dc in the next
ch-5 sp ;
ch 3 , 3 dc in same ch-5 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc
in same ch-5 sp) ;
ch 5, sk dc 2-tog,
dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp * ;
rep from *to* till end ;
ch 5, sk next ch-5 sp ,
(3 dc in the last ch-sp ;
ch 3 , 3 dc in same ch-sp ;
ch
3, 3 dc in same ch-sp). Turn.
Row 23 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(3 dc
in the ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
ch 5, rep from
(to) once ;
ch 5, sk 1st dc
2-tog , dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc
;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc
2-tog in next dc ;
*ch 5, rep from (to)
once ;
ch 5, rep from (to) once ;
ch 5, sk next dc
2-tog , dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc , dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc,
dc 2-tog in next dc* ;
rep from *to* till
end ;
ch 3, sk next dc 2-tog ; dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 24 : dc
in the 1st dc ; ch 5 ,
[sk next dc 2-tog, dc
2-tog in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in
next dc ;
ch 1, sk next dc & dc 2-tog,
dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp] ;
*ch 5, (3 dc in
the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3 , 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
ch 2, sc in
next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, sc in same ch-5
sp ;
ch 2, rep from (to) once ;
ch 5, rep from [to] once* ;
rep from *to* till
end ;
ending with a (to) ;
sk next 2 dc , dc in
last st. Turn.
Row 25 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(3 dc
in the ch-3 sp,
ch 3, dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3, sk ch-2 sp , 7 dc
in ch-5 sp ;
ch 3, sk ch-2 sp ,
rep from (to) once ;
ch
5, sk 1st dc 2-tog , dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc
2-tog in next ch-1 sp ;
*ch 5, rep from (to)
once ;
ch 3, 7 dc in ch-7 sp ;
ch 3, rep from (to) once ;
ch 5, sk 1st dc
2-tog , dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 1, sk next dc, dc 2-tog in next ch-1 sp*
;
rep from *to* till end
;
ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 26 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 7 , sk next dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog in next ch-1
sp ;
*ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog,
(3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3 , 3
dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
ch 2, dc in next dc ;
[ch 1, dc in next dc ] ;
rep from [to] 5
times ;
ch 2, rep from (to) once ;
ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, dc 2-tog in
next ch-1 sp* ;
rep from *to* till end, ending with a (to) ;
ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 27 : dc
in 1st dc ;
ch 2, (3 dc
in the ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3, sk 1st dc, sc in
the 1st ch-1 sp ;
[ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp]
;
rep [to] 4 times ;
ch 3,
rep from (to) once ;
*ch 5, sc on next dc
2-tog ;
ch 5, rep from (to) once ;
ch 3, sk 1st dc, sc in the 1st ch-1
sp ;
rep [to] 5 times ;
ch
3, rep from (to) once* ;
rep from *to* 4
times ;
rep from *to* till last dc 2-tog ;
ch 5, sc on next dc
2-tog ;
ch 5 ; dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 28 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 3, {dc in the next sc ;
ch 3 , 3 dc in same sc}
;
ch 3, (3 dc in the ch-3 sp,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3, sk next ch-sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
rep from
[to] 3 times ;
*ch 3, rep (to) once ;
ch 3, rep {to} once ;
ch 3, rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sk next ch-sp, sc in next
ch-3 sp ;
rep from [to] 4 times* ;
rep from *to* 4 times
till end ;
ch 4, dc in last
dc. Turn.
Row 29 : dc
in 1st dc ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same dc ;
ch 3, (3 dc
in the ch-3 sp,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp);
ch 4, sk next ch-sp, sc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 2
times ;
ch 4, rep from (to) once ;
ch 3, {3 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3
dc in same ch-3
sp} ;
*ch 4, rep from (to)
once ;
ch 4, sk next ch-sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3
sp] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 4, rep from (to) once ;
ch 3, rep from {to} once* ;
rep from *to* till last
end ;
ch 3, dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 30 : (3 dc
in the ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
{ch 3, rep from (to)}
;
*rep {to} once ;
ch 5,
sk next ch-sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3
sp] ;
rep from [to] once ;
ch 5, rep from (to) once
;
rep {to} 2 times* ;
rep from *to* till end ;
ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 31 : dc
in 1st dc ;
ch 3, (3 dc
in the ch-3 sp,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3, rep (to) once ;
*ch 4, sk next ch-sp, sc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in the next
ch-3 sp] ;
ch 4, rep from (to) once ;
ch 3, rep (to) once ;
{ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 5, sc in the same ch-3
sp} ;
ch 3, rep (to) once* ;
rep from *to* till end, ending with a (to) ;
ch 2, dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 32 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 3, 7 dc in the
1st ch-5 sp ;
ch 3 , (3 dc in
the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
{ch 5, rep from
(to) once} ;
ch 5, [ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep from {to} twice*
;
rep from *to* till one
rep of {to} in the last pineapple ;
ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in the
next ch-3 sp. Turn.
Note : We
will now shape off one shoulder in the following row.
Row 33 : dc
in 1st dc ; ch 5, sk next 2 dc ;
(3 dc in the next ch-3
sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
sk both ch-sps and sc, rep from (to) once ;
{ch 5, rep from (to) once} ;
ch 3, dc in next dc , [ch 1, dc in next dc] ;
rep [to] 5 times.
Place marker. Turn.
We will now go back
along this row and complete the corner of this shoulder.
Once done, we will
return to this [to] point where you’ve placed your marker, re-attach our yarn
and continue back down with our pattern.
Sl-st into the ch-sps
till the 2nd last ch-1 sp ;
sc in that ch sp ;
ch 3, sc in next
ch-1 sp ;
ch 3, rep (to) once ;
ch
5, rep (to) once ;
dc into the next ch-3 sp. Turn.
We’re going to head back
down and up once more till we’ve completed the shoulder.. so ..
Ch 2, sc in the ch-3 sp
;
ch 5, rep (to) once ;
ch 2, sc in ch-3 sp ; Turn.
Ch 2, rep (to) once ;
ch
3, dc in next sc ; Turn.
ch 3, sc in next ch-3
sp.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
We’ve now completed one shoulder.
Re-attach your yarn in
the last ch-1 sp of that 7 dc set.
((Ch 5, sk 1st 3
dc, sc in ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp)) ;
rep ((to)) once
more ;
ch 3, sk both ch-5 sps and sc, sk 3
dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp of next pineapple ;
ch 6, sk next 3 dc, sc in next ch-3
sp ; ch 4, sc in next 5 dc ;
ch 3, sc in next dc ; ch 3, sc in
next dc ;
{ch 3, rep (to) once} ;
rep {to}
once ;
sk both ch-5 sps and sc , rep (to)
once ;
rep {to} once ;
ch 3, dc in next dc
, [ch 1, dc in next dc] ;
rep[to] 5 times ;
*ch 3 , rep (to) once ;
rep {to}
once ; sk both ch-5 sps and sc ,
rep (to) once ;
rep {to} once ;
ch
3, dc in next dc , [ch 1, dc in next dc] ;
rep[to] 5 times* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 5, hdc in last st. Turn.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Row 34 : dc in the 1st st
;
*ch 4, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
[ch 3, sk next dc, sc
in the next ch-1 sp] ;
rep [to] 4 times ;
{ch 3, (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp)} ;
rep (to) once ;
rep {to} once ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ending with a
rep (to) ;
ch 4, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-1
sp ;
rep [to] 2 times. Turn.
Row 35 :
Neckline edge : dc in 1st st ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
{ch 5, (3 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp)} ;
rep [to} 2 times ;
*rep {to} once ;
ch 3,
sk next ch-sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3
sp] ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
rep {to} 3 times*
;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Row 36 : dc
in 1st dc ,
*ch 3, sk next ch-sp, sc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
ch 3, (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
{ch 5 , rep (to) once} ;
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep
{to} 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end, ending with a rep (to) ;
sc in the
last ch-sp. Turn.
Row 37: dc in 1st sc ; ch 2,
*(3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
{ch 5, rep (to) once} ;
<ch
5, sc in the next ch-5 sp> ;
rep <to> once ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 3, sk next ch-sp, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
[ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] once ; ch 3* ;
rep *to* till end ;
dc in the last st. Turn.
Row 38 : dc
in 1st dc ;
ch 3, sk next ch-sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp
;
ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
{ch 5, rep (to) once} ;
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
[ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-5
sp] ;
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 3, sk next ch-sp, sc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sc
in next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till the end, ending with a rep (to),
but in that last
(to) work a 3 dc in the last ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc. Turn.
As you can see, we're
reaching the top of the last pineapple, and we've just started a row for our
new (to) shell pattern - in that last dc ; ch 3, dc that we've created. Got it?
Row 39 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
sk next 3 dc, {ch 5, (3 dc
in the ch-3 sp; ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) } ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
sk next dc, rep
{to} once ;
rep [to] once ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 3, sk next ch-sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 2, dc in the last st. Turn.
Row 40 : dc in 1st dc ; ch 3,
*(3 dc in the ch-3 sp;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in the ch-3 sp;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) } ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
rep (to) in the next ch-5 sp
;
rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 2, rep (to) once ; ch 5,* ;
rep *to* till end , ending with a rep (to) ;
ch 4, dc in the last st. Turn.
Row 41 : dc in 1st dc ;
ch
3, *(3 dc in the ch-3 sp; ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
{ch 5, rep (to) once}
;
< rep [to]
once ;
rep {to} once > ;
rep <to> once
;
rep {to} once ;
ch 5, sk next ch-sp & 3 dc , sc in the ch-3 sp
;
ch 5, sk next 6 dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 5* ;
rep *to* till end,
dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 42 : dc
in 1st st ; ch 5, sk next ch-sp, sc in the next ch-5 sp
;
ch 5, *(3 dc in the ch-3 sp; ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
{ch
5, rep (to) once} ;
< rep [to] once ;
rep {to} once > ;
rep < to > 2 times* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 3, dc in the last st. Turn.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn
twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2
lps] three times. One trc made.
Check
out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Row 43 : trc
in 1st dc ;
ch 3, (3 dc in next ch-3
sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep [to] once ;
{ch 5, rep
(to) once} ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
rep [to] 2 times ;
rep {to} once ;
ch 5, sk both ch-sps and sc , rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till end ending with a dc in the last dc. Turn.
Now this is the last row
for this end of your top.
We will only have a border after this for this
end.
Fasten off and we will re-attach yarn.
Note : With this row we’re flattening off our edge.. so keep this in mind and your reps will accordingly be reduced.
After a few rows we’re also going to start shaping the armhole.
So we will re-attach yarn on the 1st (to) ch-sp, which is the edge of your last pineapple.
Got it? Great!
Row 44 :
Bottom edge : sc in 1st ch-sp ;
*{ch 5, sk next ch-sp,
(3 dc in next ch-sp , ch 3, 3 dc
in same ch-sp) } ;
rep {to} once ;
<
ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, rep (to) once > ;
rep <to> once ;
rep {to} 2 times ;
rep < to > once* ;
rep *to* till end, ending with a (to) ;
ch 2, dc in the last dc. Turn.
Now as I just mentioned, we're slowly flattening our lower edge.
May I suggest
you place a marker for the bottom edge now, for convenience.
So see the right edge of your 2nd pineapple -
So we have one (to)
that marks the edge of the pineapple, and then five (to) in between followed by
the other edge of the next pineapple and the (to).
So basically seven (to),
right?
So keeping the right hand edge (to) as #1, place your marker
on the #3 (to).
This (to) is also one (to) away from the
centre of the earlier pineapple.
So just put your work down, and you'll see it makes sense.
Row 45 : trc
in 1st dc ;
ch 5, (3 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
{ch 5, rep (to) once} ;
rep {to} all the way to the marker ; sc in that ch-sp. Turn.
We're now working away from the side of top, and towards the
armhole / neckline, so when I give instructions of moving to the next (to), I
mean towards the side we're working.
Move your marker to # 1 (to) or the right hand side corner (to) of your 2nd last pineapple
Row 46 : Sl-st into the ch-sp of the next (to) ; sc in that ch-sp ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
{ch
5, (3 dc in next ch-sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) }* ;
rep *to* till last dc ;
rep (to) in that last dc ;
ch 2, dc in
the same last dc. Turn.
Row 47 : Neckline edge : trc in the 1st dc ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp ,
ch 3,
3 dc in same ch-sp) } ;
rep {to} all the way to the marker
;
[3 dc, ch 1, sc] in that marked ch-sp.
Turn.
This is our last ‘full row’ - after this row we’ll be shaping the armhole.
Row 48 : Sl-st into the ch-sp just before the next (to) of earlier row ;
sc in the ch-sp ;
ch 2, (3 dc in
next ch-sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
{ch
5, (3 dc in next ch-sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) }* ;
rep *to* till the last (to) of this row
;
rep [to] once ;
ch 5, dc in the last
trc. Turn.
This is a short row – you’ve shaped the base, and now you’ll shape off your armhole.
When working the armhole bit, please
check to see that both your armholes are properly aligned.
Right so .. onward..
Let's place a marker for the lowest part of the armhole.
Counting off from the neckline edge, place
your marker on the #5 (to).
So you should have a total of 5 (to)
and ten ch-5 sps.
ch 2, (3 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
*sk both ch-5 sps and sc
, {ch 5 , (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3
sp)}* ;
rep *to* 4 times till
marker. Turn.
Row 50 :
sl-st into the ch-sp ; dc in the same 1st ch-sp ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) }* ;
rep *to* 4 times ;
ch 5, sc in the last st. Turn.
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
ch 5, sk next ch-sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) } ;
rep {to} 3 times. Turn.
Row 52 : sl-st
into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same 1st ch-3
sp ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in
next ch-sp , ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) }* ;
rep *to* 2 times ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 5, sc in the last st. Turn.
Row 53 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp ; trc in the same 1st ch-5 sp ;
sk next ch-sp and sc ,
(3 dc in next ch-sp , ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp , ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) } ;
rep {to} once ;
ch 3, dc in the last st. Turn.
Row 54 : dc
in the 1st dc ;
(3 dc
in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in
next ch-sp , ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) } ;
rep [to] once ;
ch 5, sc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
Note : Place a marker here. You may need
it for the finish.
Row 55 : trc in the 1st sc ;
ch 3, (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
ch 5, sk both ch-5 sps and sc, sc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
Row 56 : dc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in the ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
ch 3, sc in the last st. Turn.
Row 57 : dc in the 1st st ; (3 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp) ;
trc in the last st. Turn.
We've completed the shoulder edge.
Now let’s re-attach our
yarn for the lower part of our top, from armhole to edge of top .
First we go back to the point where we'd marked off for the armhole.
Secondly, we have just
two easy rows to work.
Now that you've got the gist of the pattern, ensure that you work only till the bottom edge keeping it flat and straight and the armhole side should also neatly curve.
I'm going to continue numbering, though its not technically an increase in numbers - we're basically continuing from under the armhole, if you know what I mean. So let's go back to the armhole marker, and re-attach yarn in the ch-sp of the marker (to).
Row 57 : sc in the 1st ch-sp ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp , ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) } ;
rep {to} 13 times ;
ch 5, dc in the last ch-3 sp. Turn.
Row 58 : sl-st till the next ch-3 sp of the next (to) ;
3 dc in the same 1st ch-sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next
ch-sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) }* ;
rep *to* 12 times ;
ch 5, sc in the last ch-5 sp ;
ch 2, dc in the last sc.
Turn.
Row
59 : trc in the 1st st ;
(3 dc in next ch-sp , ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) } ;
rep {to} 11 times ;
ch 3, dc in the last ch-3 sp.
Turn.
Row 60 : sl-st
till the next ch-3 sp of the next (to) ;
dc in the same ch-sp
;
ch 2, 3 dc in the same 1st
ch-sp , ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
{ch
5, (3 dc in next ch-sp , ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) }* ;
rep *to* 10 times ;
ch 5, sc in the last ch-5 sp ;
ch 5, 2
dc in the last st. Turn.
The armhole has been shaped completely, and we will now need to move our markers down for shaping the sides of our top. So you can either fasten off here and re-attach yarn, OR you can sl-st all the way to the point needed. I'm going to indicate the point using a marker.
Counting the 2 dc as our first (to) ;
place your marker on the fourth (to)
from the armhole edge.
If you have fastened off yarn, this is
where you will re-attach it.
Row 61 : 3 dc in the same 1st ch-sp , ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp , ch 3,
3 dc in same ch-sp) }
;
rep {to} 7 times ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the last ch-3 sp.
Turn.
Row 62 : dc in the 1st st ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp , ch 3,
3 dc in same ch-sp) }
;
* [ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep {to } once* ;
rep *to* 6 times ; Turn.
Row 63 : sl-st till the next ch-3 sp of the next (to) , sc in the same ch-3 sp ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp , ch 3,
3 dc in same ch-sp) } ;
rep {to} 5 times ;
ch 3, dc in the last st.
Turn.
Row 64 : sl-st
till the next ch-3 sp of the next (to) , sc in the same ch-3 sp ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp , ch 3,
3 dc in same ch-sp) }
;
* [ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep {to } once* ;
rep *to* 4 times ; Turn.
Row 65 : trc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, (3 dc in next ch-sp , ch 3,
3 dc in same ch-sp) ;
{ch 5, rep (to) once}
;
rep {to} 2 times ;
ch 5, dc in the last st.
Turn.
Row 66 : dc in the 1st st ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp ,
ch 3,
3 dc in same ch-sp) }
;
* [ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
rep {to } once* ;
rep *to* 2 times ; Turn.
Row
67 : trc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 2, (3 dc
in next ch-sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) ;
{ch 5, rep (to) once} ;
rep
{to} once ;
ch 2, dc in the last st. Turn.
Row
68 : sl-st till the next ch-3 sp of the next (to) ,
sc in the
same ch-3 sp ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;
{ch
5, (3 dc in next ch-sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) } *
;
rep *to* once ending with an sc in the
last ch-3 sp ; Turn.
Row 69 : trc in the 1st sc ;
ch 2, (3 dc in
next ch-sp ,
ch 3, 3 dc in same ch-sp)
;
ch 5, dc in the last st.
Turn.
Row 70 : dc in the 1st dc ;
ch 2, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;
*{ch 5, (3 dc in next ch-sp ,
ch
3, 3 dc in same ch-sp) } . Turn.
Row
71 : dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, trc in the last st.
Turn.
We've completed the sides of our top.
EDGING / BORDER :
You could either
complete this bottom border here and then proceed to the top to complete the
armhole and shoulder bit OR you could fasten off after Row 54, complete the
shoulder, then the back of your top, and after joining sides do the
edging/border as one piece.
But I’m going to write out the border here
once.
You could also work this
cute border along the neckline and armholes.
OK, now put your work down, and see the slightly odd edges where the (to) sticks out.
You can also clearly see the edge of the armhole as well as the
bottom edge of your vest - so you will need to straighten this edge with a row
sc and ch-3 sps.
We will work a picot
which is (ch 3, sl-st into the 3rd ch from hk).
So, start with a sc in the 1st st ;
*ch 2 + picot + ch 2, sc in next st* ;
rep *to* till end.
And we’re DONE ... phew!! (well.. with one side.. you have to make a
mirror image for the back too) !!!
This one has taken a lot
out of you .. but just look at this beauty !!
Total respect for the
brain who thought this one through !!
Right then.. go ahead
and complete the back part for this top, and it’s going to go a lot faster as
you’ve got the pattern going.
Remember do not assume
that the information between brackets / parenthesis is the same as from
previous row(s) and keep checking against this half when you’re working on the
other half – for synchronization.
Once you have both the front and back done, attach the shoulders, attach the sides.
Here are some joining methods
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
To finish the edges, I'd suggest you run a row of sc or reverse sc / crab stitch.
Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : Here’s an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk
and the full chart for quick reference
Fasten off and weave in ends.
And you are DONE with
this awesome creation.
Block your beautiful
work before showing it off on social media.
Remember to send me your finished photos on Facebook and I'd love to feature your photos on my page .. let's all enjoy this crazy gorgeousness ;)
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Have
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Here are some of my
older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Thank you for the written
ReplyDeletedirections, but I have a very hard time following. Is there a different way of getting this beautiful pattern
Sorry for the delayed response. Besides the detailed written explanation with a set of charts given, sorry, but there is not other way ... welllll unless you give me an order and I'll create this for you ;)
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