Friday, 10 February 2017

ROSÉ PINK SHELLED BABY DRESS

crochet baby dress, free crochet baby dress pattern

ROSÉ PINK SHELLED BABY DRESS


#Blogaday 41/365

This pattern has been on my “to-do” list for a while, and somewhere along the line, I think I forgot about it.. that said, my darn ‘to do’ list is unending and constantly growing longer, so I should forgive my forgetfulness too ;)
Anyway, just the other day, someone shared this inspiration on Facebook, and I remembered that I *still* needed to get this done ! No time as good as the present.. so here we go.

I’m glad that you’re back here with me as we explore this new creation together.

This is not my original pattern. I found this photograph and a convenient chart on the internet.
As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.


Materials used : Today I’ve used about one skein of our superb Oswal Cashmilon acrylic 3-ply yarn,  with a 3 mm crochet hook 

Skill level :  Intermediate

Size :  Length : 15.5” ; Chest / Breadth : 19”

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                       dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                              ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                              rep : Repeat


Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/


Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  With this stunningly simple pattern, we’re going to work a yoke from the round chest, past the armholes to the shoulders. 
We will then come back to the same foundation start row, and work the shells for the lower part of the dress.

Remember that you need to work a back placket opening for the child, and I suggest that you keep it open all the way to the start row for a younger child. That said, you will then be working one piece for the front and two halves for the back.

Part 1 : Front (Make one piece)

free crochet pattern







Start with fsc in multiples of 6 + 3 (for half round chest measure).  Turn.

In the following row, we will be working a dc 2-tog.  Check out “how to” do this under “stitches used” at the top of this blog.

Now usually, when we work a dc 2-tog, we work it over 2 sts.  In this pattern, we will be working it over 3 sts, skipping a st in the middle.
This means that we will work the first leg of the dc 2-tog in the 1st st ; sk the next st, and work the 2nd leg of the dc-2 tog in the next st, which means a total of 3 sts for one dc 2-tog. This gives us is a wider “V” pattern, which looks awesome.  Let’s call this our “Special dc 2-tog”

If you find this stitch uncomfortable, or difficult, may I suggest you work a dc 3-tog over the 3 sc.  You will get a neat diamond stitch which will also look pretty darn awesome.. trust me!

Row 1 : dc in the 1st 3 fsc ;
*ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 fsc ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 fsc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog ; sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

STOP : Before continuing, check that the two rows that you’ve started with are of the width needed for the child’s half round measure.  Sometimes, a pattern will ‘pull’ and decrease the length of the first foundation row, so check now please.

We will start a minor decrease along armhole to shape it in the following  rows.  For this we will use a regular, usual dc 2-tog to decrease.

Row 3  : (Decrease row) : dc in the 1st dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
*ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* till last 3 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog ; sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* last 2 dc ; dc in the last 2 dc.   

Row 5  : (Decrease row) : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; *ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.  Turn.

We will now divide for the neck.

Row 6 : dc in the 1st dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog ; sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog ; sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc.  Turn. (3 sets of 3-dc)

Row 7  : dc in the 1st dc ; *ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 8 : dc in the 1st dc ; 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc ; sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog* ;
rep *to* once ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the last dc.  Turn. (3 sets of 3-dc)

Row 9  : dc in the 1st dc ; *ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
dc in the next dc ; sk next dc, dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.  Turn.

Row 10 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog ; sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the last dc.  Turn. (2 sets of 3-dc)

Row 11  : dc in the 1st dc ; *ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
rep *to* once ;
dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 12 : dc in the 1st 4 dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog ; sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the last dc.  Turn. (2 sets of 3-dc)

Row 13  : (Decrease row) : dc in the 1st dc ; *ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ; ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc ; dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc.  Turn.

Row 14 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ;
*sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog ; sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
sk next ch-1 sp, 3 dc on the Special dc 2-tog ;
sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the last dc.  Turn. (2 sets of 3-dc)

Row 15  : dc in the 1st dc ; *ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ; ch 1, dc in the next 3 dc* ;
ch 1, Special dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts ; ch 1, dc in the last 3 dc.  Turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.
You have completed one side of the front yoke.

Re-attach your yarn for the second side of yoke on Row 6, and rep/ mirror instructions for Rows 6 – 14.

Once done, fasten off and weave in ends.
You have completed the front yoke.


Part 2 : Back








There are two ways to work the back.
You can either work exactly like you have the front, in one piece, but keep the back neckline a little higher. (This is what the designer has done per chart)
May I suggest that you work the neckline a little higher for the back.  As per the chart, the designer has worked till Row 9 and then divided for the neck.

The other way is to divide the back into two parts and work a button placket all the way from the chest to the top, keeping the back neck all the way to the shoulders. (This is what I have chosen to do)
If you decide to do this, then the simplest way to count off your stitches for the back is to work it off the front.  So divide your front in half, and see how many 3-dc sets you have (not the ones that form the “V” but the ones that are dc on dc).
As we start and end with 3 dc on the 1st row, it works out best, if you are able to get the same 3 dc in the middle back as well.

However, this may not always work out.  You may have a “V”-st at the centre, so all you will need to do is work the 3 dc after that, and allow the two sides of your back to overlap on these 3 sts to get the width right.  Make sense?

So go ahead and divide your front, work out the number of stitches needed for back and work the start row, and then Rows 1 -14 for the back as well.

May I suggest that you work the neckline a little higher for the back.  As per the chart, the designer has worked till Row 9 and then divided for the neck.
Note though, you will be working the decreases for the armhole side, no matter which row you are dividing for the neckline.

When you finish off, you  can decide which method you are using to join the shoulders, and join them before you leave your work.

Good. Choose your method and work the back. We’ll meet in just a bit to work on the skirt portion of our beautiful dress.


Part 3 : Yoke finishing

Before we start off on the skirt portion, let’s finish off the yoke completely.

I hope you have attached the shoulders for the yoke.  If you have made two back pieces (as I have), then join them at the bottom so that you will not be confused when working on the skirt portion of the dress.

Let us now work a quick border around the neck and armhole, and then join the sides up as well (not necessarily in this order) ;)

So keeping the two sides together, mark out the armhole requirement and join the sides.

For the border, let us first run a round of sc all around the neck and armhole areas in preparation for a small pattern.

Border pattern :






Row 1 : Run a round of sc all around the neckline and armhole.
For an estimate of how many sts to work all around, may I suggest you work 2 sc in each vertical bar of a dc , and then when you come around to the flat sections, you just work a sc in each st and ch-1 sp all around till the end. 

Our stitch count is 3, so try to see that you can get a multiple of 3

Row 2 : sc in the 1st sc ; *ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

I’d say that 3 rounds should suffice for a cute border. So I’m going to make the next row the final one, and add a picot in the centre of the ch-3 sp.

We’ll work a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).
Check the top of this blog for a “how to work a picot” under “stitches used”.

Row 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc + picot in the same ch-3 sp ; *ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-3 sp* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat all these instructions for both the armholes as well.

Great job!  We’re now all set to work our skirt.



Part 4 : Skirt portion of the dress




free crochet dress pattern, free crochet baby dress pattern

free crochet baby dress pattern, free crochet dress pattern


Our stitch count for the skirt portion is 12.

So here are a few ideas for the skirt portion.  We need to get the stitch count right, but you could also decide on how frilly you want the skirt, and add stitches to the foundation row of the yoke in preparation.

The skirt portion is worked in rounds off the bottom of the first foundation row of the yoke.  So in case you have worked two back portions, please ensure that you have attached that bit up first.

To start, let us run a round of sc all aound the foundation row, and work it such that you get the stitch count in multiples of 12.


Round 1 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;
*ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, 6 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st to the 1st dc ; sc in the same dc ;
*[(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 2 times ; ch 1, dc in the same dc ; rep (to) 3 times] ; ch 1, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next dc* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In our following round, we will once again be using a dc 2-tog. However, this time we will be using it as a decorative stitch and so we will work both the legs of the dc 2-tog in the same dc.  This will make it a thicker puffier stitch and give it the pattern we are looking for.

Feel free to use a dc 3-tog if you think you want more accent or a thicker stitch (especially if you are using a thinner yarn)

Round 4 : sl-st to the 1st dc ; dc 2-tog in the same dc ;
*(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next dc) ; 
rep (to) 5 times ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sc on the 1st dc 2-tog ;
*[ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next dc 2-tog] ; 
rep [to] 2 times ; 
ch 3, sk next sc and ch-2 sps, sc in the next dc 2-tog* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sl-st to the 1st ch-5 sp ;
*(dc ; ch 1, dc all in the same ch-5 sp) ; 
ch 1, 8 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; 
ch 1, rep (to) once in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : sl-st past the 1st dc and ch-1 sp into the next dc ; sc in the same dc ; 
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 7 times ; 
ch 4, sk next 4 dc and two ch-1 sps, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : dc 2-tog on the 1st dc ;
*(ch 2, dc 2-tog on the next dc) ; rep (to) 6 times ; 
ch 2, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 9 : sc on the 1st dc 2-tog ;
*[ch 5, sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next dc 2-tog] ; 
(ch 5, sk next two dc 2-togs, sc in the next dc 2-tog) ;  
rep [to] once ; ch 3, sk next sc and ch-2 sps, sc in the next dc 2-tog* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We’ve completed one pattern repeat.  
Put your work down and measure how many inches you get lengthwise from Round 6 to 9. 

Rep Rounds 6 to 9 according to the length you need, ending with a Round 8.

Last Round : sl-st into the ch-2 sp ; sc in the same ch-2 sp ; 
*ch 3, sc in the next ch-sp* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.


Fasten off and weave in ends.
Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

Edited to add : You may notice that I have finished with Round 7, and that’s because I was a teensy bit short on yarn, but as you can see, it makes no difference to the pattern at all.  So go for it!


free crochet rose motif

free crochet rose motif

Final touch : I’ve added one small rose and a satin ribbon.  The satin ribbon is ofcourse, store bought.. and for the small rose, check out this link and you’ll get not only the rose but also some fun stuff for hair.. and which little girl doesn’t like stuff for hair.. so have fun.


And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

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