Sweet Nothings Crochet: AUTUMNY LEAFY TOP

AUTUMNY LEAFY TOP - a free crochet pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

This gorgeous crochet top has a repeat pattern that looks like an autumn leaf, doesn't it? And then the stunning Nako Serin yarn was just perfect in color and texture for this gorgeous pattern.

I am lucky to be blessed with lovely friends who gift me lovely yarns.

Just yesterday, I received a parcel with this stunning Nako Serin , Viloft – soft, lustrous with a light sheen, I couldn’t wait to see how it feels with the hook…. And then all of us are blessed with the wonderful world of the free wide web and its freebies.. and all the people who browse and share the patterns the find…. aaaah! How lucky are we?? Don’t look a gift horse in the mouth ?? hmmm !?

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Materials used : Nako Serin, Sport / 5 ply (12 wpi), ~ 160 gms , with a 3.25 mm crochet hook

This yarn is not specific for this project. You can use knitting cotton with a suitable hook as well.

For Non-Indians : Other yarns that I have used in this thickness include "I-love-this-cotton" cotton yarn from Hobby Lobby. This lovely top can be made using any yarn (and suitable hook), as we're working with stitch count to get width and length of our garment.

Size made : Chest : 34” : Length : 22”

Gauge : 5 dc (across) x 2 dc rows (high) = 1”

Size and gauge only given for calculation of yarn usage if needed.

You can make this project to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/

and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

sp : Space sl-st : Slip stitch

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over ch : Chain

dc : Double crochet

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet

hdc : Half double crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

This is not my original pattern and it’s just one of those wonderful free floating freebies over the net. I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.

Original pattern link probably one of these two here or here

Alright , let’s begin.. This is a straight forward, bottom-up pattern.

The designer has started it at the base and then gone straight up to the shoulders, dividing for neck and shoulders.

There are two identical halves made for front and back, which are then joined at shoulder and side seams.

Working off the repeat count, you can easily increase the width and length of this creation, I’m sure.

The designer has started with the regular chain start, which I do not personally like (well, not since I’ve discovered the chainless foundation start stitch method(s)).

You could start with the fsc (foundation single crochet), or like I have, opt to start with the fdc (Foundation Double Crochet).

Now about my yarn – I find Nako Serin is a lovely lovely yarn – soft, with a slight sheen, very easy to use and smooth. It has been qualified as a Sport weight yarn, but it feels like the Indian 3-4 ply weight yarn. Nako Serin also feels a little like the Stylecraft 4-ply Baby yarn I’ve used.

It is a little thicker than the Indian Peecock 100% cotton yarn, and slightly thinner than our Indian Laura knitting cotton, so obviously our Anchor /Red Rose and (Indian) Red heart knitting cottons are thinner.

I think that our Indian Vardhman baby soft would work well , but do check with the gauge I’ve given below.

BACK (Make two)

Our stitch count is in multiples of 27 plus 9.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start with fdc in multiples of 27 + 9.

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ;

yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.

One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

We will use a "V"-st in the following row which is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Row 1 : dc in 1^st fdc ; {“V”-st in next fdc} ;

ch 1, sk next 2 fdc , rep {to} once ;

*ch 1, sk next 2 fdc, dc in next 5 fdc ;

ch 2 , sk next 2 fdc , dc in next 3 fdc ;

ch 3, sk next 2 fdc ; dc in next 3 fdc ;

ch 2, sk next 2 fdc , dc in next 5 fdc ;

ch 1, sk next 2 fdc , “V”-st in next fdc* ;

rep *to* till last 4 fdc ;

ch 1, sk next 2 fdc , “V”-st in next fdc ;

dc in last fdc. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in 1^st dc ; {“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

*ch 1, (sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc) ;

ch 2 , sk next dc , [2 dc in next dc ;

dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next dc] ;

ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, rep [to] once ;

ch 2, rep (to) once ;

ch 1, “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in 1^st dc ;

{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

*ch 1, (sk next dc, dc in next dc) ;

ch 2 , sk next dc , [2 dc in next dc ;

dc in next 3 dc ; 2 dc in next dc] ;

ch 2, 3 dc in next dc ;

ch 2, rep [to] once ;

ch 2, rep (to) once ;

ch 1, “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in 1^st dc ;

{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, (dc in next 5 dc) ;

ch 2 , sk next dc , [3 dc in next dc ;

ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc] ;

ch 2, sk next dc , rep (to) once ;

ch 2, sk next 2 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in 1^st dc ;

{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

*ch 2, (sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc) ;

ch 2 , sk next dc , [2 dc in next dc ;

dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc] ;

ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp ;

ch 1, rep [to] once ;

ch 2, rep (to) once ;

ch 2, sk next dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 6 : dc in 1^st dc ;

{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

*ch 2, (sk next dc, dc in next dc) ;

ch 2 , sk next dc , [2 dc in next dc ; dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc] ;

ch 2, 3 dc in next dc ;

ch 2, rep [to] once ;

ch 2, rep (to) once ;

ch 2, sk next dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 7 : dc in 1^st dc ;

{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, [dc in next 5 dc ;

ch 2, sk next dc , 3 dc in next dc ;

ch 3, sk next dc ; 3 dc in next dc ;

ch 2 , sk next dc, dc in next 5 dc] ;

ch 2, sk next 2 dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

dc in last dc. Turn.

Row 8 : dc in 1^st dc ;

{“V”-st in next “V”-st} ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

*ch 2, [sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc] ;

ch 2, sk next dc , (2 dc in next dc ;

dc in next dc ; 2 dc in next dc) ;

ch 2, dc in ch-3 sp ;

ch 2, rep (to) once ;

ch 2 , sk next dc, dc in next 3 dc ;

ch 2, sk next dc , “V”-st in next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 1, rep {to} once ;

dc in last dc. Turn.

And yaay, you’ve finished one pattern repeat.

As you may have seen and guessed, our pattern repeat is Rows 6-8.

Rep Rows 6-8 till you get the height / length you need till armhole.

Now as our lengths will differ, the line we ‘end’ at may differ.

So for the armhole /neckline / shoulder straps, I will generalize how we’ll achieve this.

It doesn't matter which row you end with, and I love the scalloped edge of the top bit

So we’re going to start the first row of our armholes..

Armhole Decrease Row 1 :

sk the 1^st dc, and “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

carry on with the pattern till end, and sk the last dc. Turn.

Armhole Decrease Row 2 :

sl- st into the 1^st “V”-st ch-2 sp, dc in this same ch-2 sp ;

ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

carry on with the pattern till end,

ch 1, and dc in last ch-2 sp of last “V”-st. Turn.

Armhole Decrease Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc,

“V”-st ch-2 sp, dc in this same ch-2 sp ;

ch 1, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

carry on with the pattern till end,

and then sk ch-1 sp, and dc in last dc. Turn.

Armhole decreases complete , you now continue with the pattern till you reach the neckline.

For the neckline, you need to decide how deep and wide you'd like it.

The shoulder straps are narrow, as you can see from the photo below.

Once you’ve reached the neckline row, you will work one shoulder strap a a time.

You will continue with just the (1^st dc and “V”-st in the next “V”-st, and then a dc in the next ch-2 sp) , till you reach the shoulder level.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

You will then re-attach your yarn in the ch-2 sp just before that last “V”-st and complete the other strap in the same way – so dc in that same ch-2 sp ;

“V”-st in last “V”-st and then dc in last dc.

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

To finish : Complete your neckline and armhole edges, you could run a row of sc or hdc all around.

You’re done with one side of your Autumny leafy top – so repeat this for the back, and then join in shoulder straps and the sides. Weave in ends and block as per yarn instructions.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

And this is the photograph (designers) that inspired me

Fasten off then and weave in the ends.. and go ahead, slip on your cool top on and show off.. you deserve to

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these superb patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/06/rangeela-top.html