Sweet Nothings Crochet: SIMPLE N' LOVELY SLEEVELESS TOP

SIMPLE N' LOVELY SLEEVELESS TOP - a free crochet pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

I was chatting with a friend and as usual, she threw (well, lovingly shared actually) two lovely top patterns at me saying ‘just up your alley’. I loved them both as did my lawful sister (well, that is how they become your sister, when they marry your brother, ...lawfully, right ? ;) )

However, we thought that the first one (blue one) was too plain (well, I thought) and the other crossed-back one was.. umm.. well, more beach-wear-like? Yes, I could be wrong.. but that’s what I thought.. so I decided to mix-n-match them up.. Howzatt ! And here’s my creation now !

Thank you for joining me.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.

Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.

All my blogs can be printed. Find the printer friendly (green) link on the right side of this blog. You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.

Remember that you only print if absolutely essential. Save paper – Save Our Earth.

Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation.

Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.

To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well.

This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 3 (100 gm) balls of a lovely soft Crochet Cotton yarn from Australia (www.yatsal.com.au), which (I think) is very similar to the Indian Anchor / Red rose or Red heart knitting cotton yarns, , with a 3.25 mm crochet hook

For Non-Indians : I have used a regular knitting cotton that technically uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook (recommended). I use a larger hook as I like the extra stretch it affords the end product. Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size made : 34” ; Length : 16”

Gauge : I small shell (across) = 1 “ ; 1 dc row (high) = ½”

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.

Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

Take a look at these videos to see which joining idea suits you best.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Inspired by two tops that were yet again those wonderful free floating freebies over the net. I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you.

Though there are two patterns that are mixed in and I’m going to show you both of them, and I’m writing out what I’ve done with this. I take a lot of trouble to ensure that I make this as easy as I can - so it does end up pretty "wordsy" - but please do read through all notes before you start so you get a (visual) idea of what we are creating today. Cheers.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

Please ensure that you have the stitch count right, and you can use any yarn, with a suitable hook, to make this to any size.

We start at the base of our top and work upwards to the shoulders, so this is a bottom up construction.

When we reach armhole level, we will decrease for neckline in a raglan fashion, and continue on to till we make the neck of the top.

The front and back of the top are similar – so make two.

Now what I’ve done is use the body pattern from one project, and the neckline of the other.

The neckline is from the knitted blue / yellow pattern, and the body shell pattern is from the lavender / light purple top.

If you decide to do the blue / yellow top simple pattern (in full), all you have to do is work in sc/ hdc or dc in each st using the stitch count below, and then following instructions for the neckline.

Note though that the blue top is a knitted one – and has been started from neck down.

The only difference starting neck down is that you get a better rounded finish for the neck – as against starting bottom up.

Pattern links for the two projects are here and here

Stitch Count :

So the top is an “A”-line from armhole down.

I would suggest you start with a stitch count that equals largest circumference needed (i.e the bust size , or waist size and choose the higher one as your basic stitch count guide).

You will then work it straight up to the armhole - working a rectangle and then we will work the neckline etc.

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

So let’s get started…

PART 1 : BACK & FRONT :

Our stitch count is in multiples of 3 + 2 sts

So start with the number of stitches you need for the width of the back of your top (so half round bust or round waist)

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Row 1 : Start with fsc in multiples of 3 + 2. Turn.

Now I worked a bit of a border , and I’m just interchanging two colours.

So I’m am going to do one sc row in the one (contrast) colour and one dc row in the other (main) colour, and this is for about 2”.

Go ahead and be creative with the border - it does not affect the body pattern.

So let’s get this border bit going before we start our pattern.

Now if you’ve done this border bit for a few rows, obviously the next row cannot be Row 2 – but that’s how I am going to number it for our convenience.

From the next row on, we’re going to use a "V"-Stitch which is (dc , picot , dc) all in the same dc ; and the picot here will be [ch 3, sl-st in the 1^st ch of this ch-3].

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st3 dc ;

*ch 1, sk next 2 dc, "V"-Stitch in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till last 3 dc, dc in the last 3 dc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

*"V"-Stitch in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, sk next "V"-stitch* ;

rep *to* till last 3 dc dc , dc in the last 3 dc. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp and "V"-st, "V"-Stitch in the next ch-1 sp ;

*ch 1, sk next "V"-st, "V"-Stitch in the next ch-1 sp* ;

rep *to* till last 3 dc ; dc in the last 3 dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 3 & 4 till you reach the armhole point where we will start a decrease to get the raglan shape for the armhole and neckline.

Decrease Row 1 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ; sk the 1^st "V"-st, "V"-Stitch in the next ch-1 sp ;

*ch 1, "V"-Stitch in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, sk next "V"-stitch* ;

rep *to* till last 3 dc and "V"-st ;

sk last "V"-st, dc in the last 3 dc. Turn.

Decrease Row 2 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

sk the 1^st ch-sp and 1^st "V"-st, ch 1, "V"-Stitch in the next ch-1 sp ;

*ch 1, "V"-Stitch in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, sk next "V"-stitch* ;

rep *to* till last 3 dc and "V"-st ;

ch 1, sk last "V"-st, dc in the last 3 dc. Turn.

Rep Decrease Row 2 till your project reaches the neck length (or depth from shoulder) and or the armhole round you need.

So to determine the armhole length from neck, I do one of 2 things –

The simple one is to just put my project against a well fitting top and figure out if we have the sizing we need (easy, huh?) ;

The other way is to actually get an armhole round measure , divide that in half and this is the length from shoulder for armhole.

Right, so now there are a few more calculations.

We’ve got our armhole length covered… and you need to decide when you are stopping for the neckline.

We are going to have a small neckline there, so depending on how wide you want this neckline band, stop your decrease rows to coincide.

Once there, fasten off.

Great job.. one side done.. and now you can repeat all of this for the other side as well. Once again, stop decreases at the same row as you have for the first side you’ve made.. and then we’ll make the lovely neckline.

PART 2 : NECK BAND :

So we’re at one end of the row, and what I’ve done is hold the sides of the top together (pin them up) and then work the neckline in one move.

For this, you need to have the Round Neck measurements for the person this top is intended for. We’re going to work upwards towards neck, so remember this while calculating this measurement.

I’ve also kept a small back opening on this neck band.. but if your yarn stretches and goes neatly over the head, then you can avoid this opening.

Note : Once again we see the small difference in the two neckline patterns I’ve been inspired by.

So here, if you prefer to finish with the purple simpler neckline, then you do as below but you just do maybe 2 – 3 rounds / rows of stitches (because as you’ve noticed, the purple neckline is a lot thinner) ; depending on how narrow or wide you wish this neckband to be.

Round 1 :

Place your back and front down, and then make chains (for the side of neck) till you reach the back of your work ; you will then sl-st through the top (back) of your work till you reach the other end, and then make chains again (to equal those you’ve made on the other side) till you join back again at the front opposite end (i.e from the other end of the front from where you have started, thus completing a circular neck). Turn.

Right then.. from here on, it’s a little difficult to write out a pattern, as we’re all going to have different st counts – so here’s what we’re going to do.

This first round determines the bottom border – so we’ve got to reduce till we reach the top.

The reduction stitches will be the dc 2-tog (or sc 2-tog if you decide to work all scs on this neck band), and the reduction stitches should be only in the centre section (ie that part which is attached to the front or back of work) and not the sections that go around the shoulder parts.

So with a little trial and error, (and of course mirroring it on both sides), you should get a neat rounded neck band.

Sorry, this isn’t as perfect a pattern write up for this section as I’d like.. but you do understand the problem I’m facing here

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns

Remember to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook. I’d love to feature your photos on my FB page. Cheers.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/

OR just my free patterns at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/free-patterns-made-by-me/

Join me on YouTube at http://youtube.com/shyamanivas

And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas

Do follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/sweetnothingscrochet/

Find me on Ravelry at ravelry.com/projects/shyamanivas/

Have a great day and see you soon.

Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html