Monday, 21 November 2016

AMAIRA's SHELLED DRESS WITH A MATCHING BELT

crochet girl's dresscrochet girls dress
  

AMAIRA's SHELLED DRESS WITH A MATCHING BELT 



I love it when I get a request to make a new design and all I’m given is a colour – and then told “go ahead and make something new and beautiful”.  Here’s what’s new and beautiful with this creation that I’m making for a 18 – 24m baby girl.  Thank you for joining me on this new journey of creation.

Please remember that as usual, I have lots of ideas and tweaks thrown in, so do read through all my wordsy explanations.  After all, I am taking the trouble of thinking all this through :)

And as we’re making requests, may I request you to link my blog when you make your project.  I feel horrid saying this, but there are many who have used the patterns freely given here, and not given any credit to the blog that has given them this pattern.  Come on guys.. it ain’t that much work to give credit and link the blog now, is it?
It’s worse when someone says “taken this from …(where ever they’ve taken the pattern from.. not just my blog I mean)” and not taking the trouble of giving the proper link(s).

You got a free pattern .. Pay It Forward ! Share away and add my blog link J

Do check my long Pinterest “to-do” list for little girl’s dresses at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/girls-dresses-to-make/
Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Inspired by this photo with its attached graph / chart , here are my pattern notes.



Materials usedToday I have used ~ about 1.5 skeins each of 2 colours - of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ;
Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : For a 18 - 24 month old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. 
How to work the fpdc :  yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete 

yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from front of stitch, around st and into the back of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One bpdc complete

How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                              sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                       hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                               yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                     sc : Single crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

There was this lovely photograph that inspired me to start on this creation, and I was lucky to find a set of charts.

Now there is a link for a set of sizing / measurement charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.  I always suggest that if you’re making this specifically for someone you know, try and get a well-fitted dress / outfit of that child.



Part I : Yoke







(Work 2 pieces)
For the yoke, we will work two pieces, one each for the front and back.
For the back the pattern is exactly the same, but you will need to divide for the button placket.
For this, all you will do is mark the centre of the back, place a marker, and then work back and forth from the armhole to this marker for the part of the yoke that you’ve decided to place buttons on.  Simple enough, right – so let’s start.


Start Row 1 :  with fsc in multiples of 7 + 3 for the across chest/waist of the child you are making this for.  Turn.

Row 2 :  dc in the 1st 3 fsc ;
*sk next fsc, 2 dc each in the next 2 dc ; sk next fsc, dc in the next 3 fsc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In the following row, we’ll work our post stitches.  
Check the “how to” in the links above.

In the following row, we will also work in a Shell stitch (Shell St).  
Our Shell stitch is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-1 sp.

Row 3 :  dc in the 1st dc ; bpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*sk next 2 dc, Shell stitch in the sp between the dc’s ; 
sk next 2 dc (dc in the next dc ; bpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

In the following row onwards, we will work in a Shell stitch in the ch-1 sp of the earlier Shell St. So instructions will just read “Shell st in Shell st”, and that automatically means in that ch-1 sp.

We will be alternating with back post and front post stitches such that you get a neat continuous line in your pattern.  So in each bpdc of the earlier row, you will work a fpdc ; and in each fpdc of the earlier row, you will work in a bpdc.

However, when I write the instructions, I will say work a fpdc in a dc, or a bpdc in a dc.

Row 4 :  dc in the 1st dc ; fpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*Shell St in the next Shell St ; 
sk next 2 dc (dc in the next dc ; fpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 5 :  dc in the 1st dc ; bpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
* Shell St in the next Shell St ; 
sk next 2 dc (dc in the next dc ; bpdc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

You have, I am sure, figured out the pattern repeat.
Rep Rows 4 & 5 till your yoke / bodice is at the armhole level.

As we are all working different sizes for the dress, I will write a generalised set of instructions for armhole and neckline decreases.  It does not matter whether you are working a front or a back post, as long as you remember that you need to alternate them, and keep the pattern going.  So for convenience, I will just write, work a “post stitch” and you work it according to the row you’re working on.




Part 2 : Armhole decrease ideas

sl-st in the 1st 5 dc (i.e 1st 3 dc plus 2 dc of the 1st Shell stitch) ; 2 dc in the 1st ch-1 sp ; *(dc in the next dc ; work a post stitch in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ; Shell St in the next Shell St* ; rep *to* till the last ch-1 sp ; 2 dc in that last ch-1 sp.  Turn.

Next row :  2 dc in the 1st 2 dc ; *(dc in the next dc ; work a post stitch in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ; Shell St in the next Shell St* ; rep *to* till the 2 dc ; dc in the last 2 dc.  Turn.

Rep this row till you reach the neckline.




Part 3 : Neckline decrease ideas


 Fold your work in half and decide the two side extremes of your neckline.  Place markers at those points. 
Work in pattern from one armhole to the 1st marker and then work back to the armhole.  Continue in pattern till you reach the shoulder level.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

You will then re-attach your yarn at the 2nd marker, and work from the 2nd marker till the armhole, back and forth, till you reach the shoulder level again. Fasten off and weave in ends.

You have completed the front of your work.

Repeat all instructions for the back.  Remember though, that as you’re working in a button placket, you will split your work near the back neck, to accommodate the button placket.

Complete the back, and I suggest you join the shoulders and sides (under armhole) portions, so that we can work in rounds for the skirt portion of our dress.


Part 4 : Skirt part of dress





For this part of the project, we will be working in rounds. We will go back to that 1st fsc round and work off that round

Our pattern repeat stitch count is 7 ; so you could either calculate /add/subtract to get multiples of 7 (we started with 7 + 3 for yoke)

Round 1 :  sc in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 5, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ; ch 5, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Ensure you have an even number of ch-5 sps

Round 2 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp , sc in the same ch-5 sp ;
*8 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 3 :  sl-st in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 4 times ; sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp); rep (to) 3 times ; sk next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 5 :  sk the 1st ch-3 sp , sl-st and sc in the next ch-3 sp ; *ch 5 ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 5, sk next two ch-3 sps, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 6 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp , 9 dc in the same ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp
*9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 7 :  sl-st in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 5 times ; sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 8 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp); rep (to) 4 times ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* all around ;
ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 9 :  sk the 1st ch-3 sp , sl-st and sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 5 ; sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 3, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 10 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp , 9 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
*sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 5, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 11 :  sl-st in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 5 times ; sk next dc, [dc ; ch 1, dc] in the next ch-5 sp ; sk next dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around ; rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 12 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp); rep (to) 4 times ; ch 3, sk next 4 dc & ch-1 sp, sc in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* all around ;
ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 13 :  sk the 1st ch-3 sp , sl-st and sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 5 ; sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4 , sk next ch-3 sp, (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp * ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 3, dc in the last ch-1 sp ; ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 14 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp , 9 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
*sc in the next ch-4 sp ; (hdc ; 2 dc ; hdc) all in the next ch-1 sp ; sc in the next ch-4 sp ; 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all ; rep (to) once and around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 15 :  sl-st in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 5 times ; [sk next dc & hdc, dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the next dc] ; sk next hdc & dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around ; rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 16 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times ; [ch 4, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-1 sp]* ; rep *to* all around ;
ch 3, rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 17 :  sk the 1st ch-3 sp , sl-st and sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 5 ; sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; [ch 5 , sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next ch-4 sp] ; ch 5, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around ;
rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 18 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp , 9 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
*sc in the next ch-5 sp ; (hdc ; 3 dc ; hdc) all in the next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all ; rep (to) once and around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 19 :  sl-st in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 5 times ; {sk next hdc, dc in the next dc ; [ch 2, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] once} ; sk next hdc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around ; rep {to} once and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 20 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times ; [sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 sp] ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* all around ;
ch 3, rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 21 :  sk the 1st ch-3 sp , sl-st and sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*ch 5 ; sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; [ch 5 , sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 sp] ;
ch 5, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp*;
rep *to* all around ;
rep [to] once and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 22 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-5 sp , 9 dc in the same ch-5 sp ;
*6 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 23 :  sl-st in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 5 times ; {sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ; rep (to) 2 times}* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

This is as far as I am working as I have the length needed.  
IF you need more length, then check out the chart and work your repeats.  Basically, as you may have noticed, we’re working a similar pattern for the past several rounds. So you could work pattern rounds 16 – 19 or 20 – 23 if you’d like.. or see what the chart has from Round 24 on.

As the following round is my last one, I am going to work in a decorative picot.  I am going to use the ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).  Check out “how to work a picot” in the stitches used information given above.

In the next round, we will work our decorative picot in the ch-sps all around.
Round 24 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc + picot in the same ch-1 sp ;
(sc + picot in the next ch-1 sp) in the next ch-1 sp and in each ch-1 sp all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part 5 : Sleeves


For this part of the project, we will be, once again, working in rounds.
Our pattern repeat stitch count is 6 ; just so we can get it neat and even.

Attach your yarn at the armhole.
Round 1 :  sc all around your armhole opening evenly, and in multiples of 7.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 1 :  sc in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next 3 sc, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.
Ensure you have an even number of ch-5 sps

Round 2 :  sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp , 7 dc in the same ch-4 sp ;
*sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 :  sl-st in the 1st dc ; dc in the next dc ;
*(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 3 times ; sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same ch-1 sp ;
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) 2 times ; sc in the next ch-1 sp* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Repeat for the second armhole as well.



Part 6 : Neckline finish


I quite like the wavy scallop-like edge of the neckline, so I have just worked an sc in each st all around (as evenly as you can where along the vertical part of the neck) and ensured that the back placket is neat and finished as well.  If you are working in button holes, here is your chance to work in the holes in a separate button placket.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

And though there are quite a few elements to this creation, I am sure you will agree that this is a job really well done.



Part 7 : Belt

crochet belt


crochet belt


In keeping with the pattern of the skirt portion, I’ve designed this belt to match this dress perfectly.

Our pattern repeat stitch count is 7
What I have done is only work the front portion in this pattern, and attach satin lace for the back – but you can work it all around if you so feel like it – as long as you get the stitch count right.

So what we will do here is work a fsc chain, and then work the pattern first on one side, and then swing around and work the same pattern on the other side of the same fsc chain.

Start with fsc in multiples of 7 + 2

Row 1 :  sc in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ; ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn
Ensure you have an uneven number of ch-3 sps

Row 2 :  sl-st in the 1st ch-3 sp , sc in the same ch-3 sp ;
*8 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till end (ending with 8 dc in the last ch-sp).  Turn

Row 3 :  sc in the 1st dc ; (ch 2, sc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 6 times
*sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ; rep (to) 6 times* ;
rep *to* till end. 
Fasten off and weave in ends.


You have finished one side of your belt.  You could well stop at this point as this looks really lovely too.  There is a lovely line of holes, and you can thread in a satin ribbon through that and be done with it.

If you decide to continue with the second side, then you will re-attach your yarn at the other side (or rather under side) of the fsc chain, and rep Rows 1 – 3 for this side as well.

Fasten off and weave in ends.  If you’ve worked half a belt (i.e just for the front portion), then pass a satin ribbon through the ready-made holes and stitch the scallops down (for firmness) and you have a lovely belt ready to go.

Have a fun creative time.
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Have a great day and see you soon. J


I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J