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Sunday, 2 August 2015

ICE CRYSTAL BOLERO



ICE CRYSTAL BOLERO

Yet another pattern shared on Facebook that looked like a set of ice crystals – light, lacy, care free .. and by now, you know me.. I can’t resist such temptations !

So without further ado, let’s get down to this lovely creation.  Thank you Rajeshwari for sharing this lovely pattern and exciting me to create this beautiful vest.

Inspired by this link https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10204117573650607&set=a.10200232427764388.1073741826.1563394979&type=1&theater , I am, as usual, writing down my notes, and am sharing them with you. So see how this ice crystal has six spokes as does our pattern.. now the name makes sense, I hope :)



Materials used : Today I’ve used our Indian Red Rose knitting cotton , ~ 200 gms, with a 3  mm crochet hook.

Skill level :  Advanced skill level.
While each little motif is not a difficult pattern, the joining of motifs could be an Advanced skill level.

Gauge :  8” x *8” (from one pointed spoke end to the other spoke end fully extended)
Remember to pull the ch-sp and/or block it first before measuring – something I didn’t do at first.. 

Stitches used :

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.


Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                                                       sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                                                        sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch                                                                                    ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                                                    hk : Hook
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2 together                        dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3 together    
yo : Yarn Over

                       
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  This is a superbly crafted set of motifs.  So we’ll work our motifs and then join them on as we go along.  You could also make all the motifs and then join them up at the end – but I always prefer the join-as-you-go method, so here’s how I am going to do this.

One quick note for joining and a neat finish for motifs : When starting with the magic circle, try and weave in that end as you work in your first round.  We can usually get the whole tail bit in while working that first round, and then you could trim off that edge (if there’s any left) so that that’s one work less to do.

The other thing that I always do is to weave in the edge(s) when I join up my motifs – so once again at every joint, there’s a clean, woven-in edge, that looks so neat and finished.

So let’s get started…

Start  : with a magic circle and 18 sc in that magic circle.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. Pull lightly to close the circle. 

Round 1 :  dc in the 1st 3 sc ; *ch 2, dc in the next 3 sc* ; 
rep *to* 4 times ; ch 2, join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 2 : sc in the 1st dc ; 
*ch 4, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ; 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp ; sc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-4 sp ; 5 dc in the same ch-4 sp ; 
*ch 2, sk next 4 sc, 5 dc in the next ch-4 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end ; ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 4 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; 
*ch 2, sk next dc, 2 dc each in the next 2 dcs ; ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till end ; ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 5 : sc in the 1st 4 dc ; 
*ch 15, sc in the next 4 dc ; 3 sc in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next 4 dc* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-3 sp ; 3 sc in that same last ch-sp and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 6 : sc in the 1st sc ; 
*sk next 3 sc , 9 dc in the next ch-15 sp ; Picot,  9 dc in the same ch-15 sp ; 
sk next 3 sc ; sc in the next sc ; 
sk next sc, dc in the next sc ; [Picot , dc in the same sc] ; 
rep [to] 2 times ; 
sk next sc, sc in the next sc* ; 
rep *to* till end and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.  




Great job ! One motif done !

You will continue making motifs this way, but for each of the next motifs, we will use the “Join-as-you-go” method which will apply on Round 6 when you join 2 motifs.
Please read notes below before doing the next motif.

So here’s where you need to check a few things :
1.       Check to see the size / gauge of this motif and then calculate how many motifs you would need for the front and back of your own creation.  For this, (as I have said before, use my cheat method ..) I always like to keep a well-fitting garment of the person for whom this is intended as a gauge.  Of course, one could also just calculate based on the width of this motif and the size of the person for whom this is intended and work accordingly. 
2.      We will be working from the waist up for our bolero, and then work continuously for the sleeves.  We will then come back to the waist line and work a small frilly decorative bit – but that’s later.
3.      All attachments between motifs will be via Picot. So when joining, you will work [ch 2, join with next motif , ch 2] in all spaces where there is a join needed between motifs. For all other picots, you will work as per pattern. 
Read explanation below for motif joining
4.      For each motif join, you will use the picot between the two 15-dcs sets and all the four picots in between these two sets.
5.      Motif : I found that while joining the motifs , increasing the chain length of one set of motifs worked out better for me. The explanation here may be a little complicated, so bear with me. We have motifs in two sets of this crystal pattern.  One is at the centre of the ch-15 sp, and here I have kept the regular ch-5 picot.  The second is a set of four picots that is part of a 4-dc set between the ch-15 sps.  Hopefully, you’re with me till here.
So, in this four picot set, I’ve made the chs 6 each (as against a ch 5) ; and then the joining for this set of motifs will be [ch 3, join with next motif , ch 3]. I found just this addition of one extra chain each end allowed my motifs to sit flatter.  This is just an opinion.  IF you find that you are OK with the ch-5 picots, please go ahead. 


Motif joining :
As mentioned before, all motifs will be joined via the picots.  The joining procedure is the same but I’ll share what (finally) worked for me.
So the first row of motifs is pretty easy.  You join the motifs with the picots between two 15-dc sets and the 4 dc set that comes between them.  This will give you that first row of motifs.
For the next row, I started joining my motif with the 1st picot (in the 15-dc set) and the centre join of the first row of motifs also in that 15-dc set point.  Oh gosh.. is this making any sense?
Well, I’m sure you’ll get it with the pictures below.
Once again, these are just my experience(s) and opinion(s).










Remember that you can only have three motifs that are joined at the 15-dc points.  This will become important when you have to fold your sleeve bits over and join that.
For that what worked for me was to mark the points (15-dc centre points) from the sleeves down to the body / chest of your bolero.

Motif calculation : Now there is no note given on how to calculate how many motifs one needs.  I used my age old method of keeping a fitting top (of the person intended) and working around that.  What I worked was the calculation of the number of motifs that make up the bottom of my bolero.  So I have four motifs at this point (waist) and I needed just over two motifs for the back.  There is going to be a largish border all around, so I worked that that should suffice for me.  I then increased one motif each side for the next row (pic attached).
So basically I think if you get the waist bit right, you can work the top of the bolero as well.
Yes, not exactly a science here, but then that’s creativity for you J

Border :  There is no pattern or chart for the border, so I’m going to share what I’ve done.  We will be working the border as one continuous round starting from one side corner, up the front, around the back of the neck, down the other side, and then around the bottom back of your bolero.
So we have three features that we will be working between – we have the ch-sp in the 15-dc set ; the sps that will join two 15-dc sets and finally the four ch-6 sps that are between two 15-dc sets.  



Attach your yarn in one of the 15-dc join spaces (i.e the ch-sp where you have joined two 15-dc sets).

Round 1 : ch 5, sc in the 1st ch-6 sp (which is that set of four ch-6 sps between two 15-dc sets) ;
*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-6 sp] ; rep [to] 2 times ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-sp that joins two 15-dc sets* ; rep *to* all around. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Note : There will be some parts along this round where the instructions “may” not work because you will be looking for the sp that joins two 15-dc sets, and its just that one ch-6 sp in the middle of the 15 dc, but that’s not a problem – because that is the ch-sp you need to use.
Basically we’re going to have one round of ch-5 sps.  

Round 2 : ch 5, sc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; * ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 - 4 : Rep Round 2.
Ensure that you have a multiple of three ch-5 sps all around. (which means you should have 15, 18, 21 ch-5 sps.. of course we need a lot more than 15 ch-5 sps , but you get what I mean J )

Round 5 : 5 dc in the 1st ch-5 sp ; *5 dc in the next ch-5 sp* ; rep *to* all around.  Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, we will be doing our dcs in the space between dc’s, and not in the dcs.

Round 6 : sc in the 1st dc ; *ch 15, sk next 1 5 dc, sc in the sp between dcs* ; rep *to* all around.  Join with a sl-st.

Ensure that you have an odd number of ch-15 sps .

Round 7 : 11 dc in the next ch-15 sp ; (dc ; ch 2, dc) in the next ch-15 sp ; *ch 5, 11 dc in the next ch-15 sp ; ch 5, rep (to) in the next ch-15 sp* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 5 and ioin with a sl-st.

Round 8 :  2 dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next 9 dc ; dc in the next dc ; ch 5, (2 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; 2 dc in the next dc) ; *ch 5, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 9 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 5, rep (to) once* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 5 and ioin with a sl-st.

Round 9 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 9 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; ch 5, (dc in the next dc ; [ch 1, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 4 times) ; *ch 5, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 9 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; ch 5, rep (to) once* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 5 and ioin with a sl-st.

Round 10 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; ch 5, (2 dc in the next dc ; [ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 4 times) ; *ch 5, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 7 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; ch 5, rep (to) once* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 5 and ioin with a sl-st.

Round 11 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 5 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; ch 3, (2 dc in each of the next 2 dc ; [ch 1, 2 dc in each of the next 2 dc] ; rep [to] 4 times) ; *ch 3, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 5 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; ch 3, rep (to) once* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 3 and ioin with a sl-st.

Round 12 :  dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; ch 3, [2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ; (ch 1, rep [to] once) ; *ch 3, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; ch 3, rep [to] once ; rep (to) 5 times* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 3 and ioin with a sl-st.

Round 13 :  dc in the 1st dc ; dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ; dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 6 dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next 6 dc) ; rep (to) 4 times ; *ch 3, dc in the 1st dc ; dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ; dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 6 dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next 6 dc) ; rep (to) 4 times * ; rep *to* all around ; ch 3 and ioin with a sl-st.

Round 14 :  dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 6 dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next 6 dc) ; rep (to) 4 times ; *ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 6 dc  ;   rep (to) 5 times* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 3 and ioin with a sl-st.

Round 15 :  sc in the 1st st ; (ch 7, sk next 6 dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; *rep (to) 4 times ; ch 7, sc on top of the trc 3-tog ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* all around ; ch 7 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Last Round :  sc in the 1st st ; *7 sc in each ch-7 sp ; sc in each sc*; rep *to* all around ; ioin with a sl-st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Note : I decided to stop my rounds at Round 15 as it fits perfectly and I also love the way the border curls and furls at this point.  Just adding this so you could also stop at any point.. also I have not done the last few rounds myself, just written out the pattern – so hope there are no errors there. 

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

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