Sweet Nothings Crochet: UNE FLEUR - FLOWER LIKE LADIES TOP

UNE FLEUR - FLOWER LIKE LADIES TOP

Yet another superb pattern that was shared by the lovely +Clara Isabel and with this really superb DMC Petra yarn, I found something unique that I think will do both this pattern and yarn justice.

I think this top looks just like a flower, whatchathink?

Thank you for joining me.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”. Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.

Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog.

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.

Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation. Cheers. Enjoy

To purchase this or similar yarn online, click on the link at the top right of this blog that reads click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon. While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well. This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me. Cheers.

The Pinterest link https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279834864692/

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you... and here's the picture that inspired me to work on this superb top.

Materials used : Today I’ve used the superbly soft DMC Petra (5) knitting cotton yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook

For Indians : DMC Petra is like our superb Indian H.P Peecock knitting cotton or a little thinner than our Indian Red Rose or our Anchor knitting cotton in thickness. With our Red Rose knitting cotton I’d say that some colours vary in thickness.. I found, for e.g. that the black is really much thinner than the other colours.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced.

The stitches, per se, are not difficult at all. The combination of stitches, and the calculations involved though required some Advanced skills.

This is mainly because the chart only gives one basic bit for the yoke, which is a little difficult to explain. I’ve tried my best, so I do hope you’ll have as much fun as I am.

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

dc 3-tog : Double Crochet 3-together

fsc : Foundation single crochet

dc : Double crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Double Triple Crochet : dtrc : wrap yarn three times around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/XyPrnAtOs3U

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today. Our pattern starts at the shoulders and we work our way down yoke of the top to the body.

So we will start with one shoulder, work our way for a few rows down, and then fasten off. We will then work on the second shoulder, work till the same point as for the first side, and then join up and work in rows side to side.

This pattern is the same for the back and front. However, if you wish , you could make the back a lot higher than the front, so you will work from Row 1 with the same pattern.

This is the tweak or difference that will decide your creativity. I am therefore, going to state that you need to make two front pieces and you decide if you want this dipped neckline or you want it straight up to the top for the back.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 20 + 1

FRONT : (Make two)

Start with 21 fsc for one side of your shoulder.

Row 1 : sc in the 1^st fsc ;

(ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc) ;

rep (to) once ; ch 5, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;

rep (to) 2 times. Turn.

Row 2 : (dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the 1^st sc ;

ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, 3 dc in the next sc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, [2 dc, ch 1, dc] all in the last sc. Turn.

Now per this chart, it looks like we’re working a new stitch.

Do bear with me as I try to explain this to you.

Arrow-head stitch : This is not the name of this stitch, and I don’t think such a stitch exists, but this is what we’re going to refer to this stitch as.

Now usually when we do this particular arrow-shaped stitch, we work a set of 4 dc in one row, and then on the following row we will work a dc 4-tog over the 4 dc and make it an arrow head.

However, in this chart, the designer has clubbed both of these movements into one.

So this means that you will first work the 4 dc, TURN

and work the dc 4-tog over the same 4 dc,

turn again and then work in the needed direction for the next stitch.

So remember for this stitch, that I am calling the Arrow-head stitch, we’re working two rows for this one stitch.

Our Arrow-head stitch is worked over 3 dc as follows :

{[dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;

Turn and work dc 4-tog over the same 4 dc just made ; then Turn again}

Double crochet 4-tog as a decrease stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog over 4 sts at https://youtu.be/WjSNi7ithIU

Double crochet 4-tog as a decorative stitch : dc 4-tog : Here is an easy video tutorial for working a dc 4-tog all in the same stitch as a decorative stitch at https://youtu.be/_B0-ye0cClU

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

ch 2, {[dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc] ;

Turn and work dc 4-tog over the same 4 dc just made ; then Turn again} ;

{ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc} ;

ch 3, rep {to} once ;

ch 2, sk next 2 dc, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Great.. we’ve worked a new stitch / creation.

Hence forth, we will call this the Arrow-head stitch and when you read these words, you need to work the 4 dc first, and then work the dc 4-tog over them, all in one swoop.

Yaay.. let’s carry on.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 3, sk Arrow-head st, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sk Arrow-head st , 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

The following row has our new Arrow head stitch again.

Remember it's two rows in one.

This is our neckline edge.

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

(ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 2, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc ;

ch 3, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc ;

ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

From this row on, we’ll use a “V”-st. Our “V”-st for this pattern will be

( 2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc ) all in the same ch-sp.

Row 6 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

ch 3, sk Arrow-head st, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sk Arrow-head st , “V”-st in the last “V”-st ;

ch 3, dc in the last dc.

Ch 51 and fasten off, leaving a small tail for attachment.

We’ve completed one side of the shoulder and the ch-51 will be the ch that goes across the top of the chest.

Now, our pattern repeat remains 20, but the extra sts are for either side of the neckline.

As stated before, I am unable to write a proper stitch count repeat as its given only for one size, which seems to be right for me. I am, however, assuming that if it does not work for you, (i.e if you think ch 51 is insufficient for the neckline), then add 20 sts to it which is one stitch count repeat, and it should work.

Right then. Start with the fsc once again and work Rows 1 – 6 for the other side of the shoulder to neckline.

Remember you are doing a mirror image, so if you are particular about the wrong and right side of your work, you will need to mirror the instructions for Rows 5 and 6. (i.e ensure you get the armhole and neckline sides right, as there are extra stitches only for the neckline side)

Once you’ve done both the shoulders – till Row 6, join the ch-51 to the end of the dc of Row 6 of second side just done.

Fasten off and re-fasten your yarn to the armhole end of Row 6.

We will now work in continuous rows from side to side (i.e armhole to armhole).

Note for back : These are instructions for the Front of your top. If you wish to do the same for the back with a deep neck, then great, you follow instructions exactly. If not, then you will start with the pattern repeat for back and work the pattern all the way from the shoulder down – attaching the shoulders for front and back as usual.

In the following row, we will work on the stitches of one side of the shoulder, and then we will work on the 51 chain made, and then the stitches on the other side of the shoulder. For convenience, I will call all of the chains in this 51-ch sp “stitches” or sts.

Row 7 : dc in the 1^st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ;

{ch 2, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc ;

ch 3, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc} ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 2, work “Arrow-head st” over the next 3 sts ;

[ch 3, sk next 3 sts, dc in the next sc ;

ch 5, dc in the same st] ;

(ch 3, sk next 3 sts, sc in the next st) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in the next st ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

rep [to] once ;

ch 3, sk next 3 sts, work “Arrow-head st” over the next 3 sts ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep {to} once ;

ch 2, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 8 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

{ch 3, sk Arrow-head st, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sk Arrow-head st , “V”-st in the next “V”-st} ;

ch 3, sk next sk Arrow-head st, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next two ch-2 sps and sc , 3 dc in the next sc ,

ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 3, 3 dc in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep {to} once ;

ch 3, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1 , dc in the last dc.

Row 9 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

{ch 2, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc ;

ch 3, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc} ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep {to} 4 times ending with ch 2, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 10 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;

{ch 3, sk Arrow-head st, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sk Arrow-head st , “V”-st in the next “V”-st} ;

ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next two ch-2 sps and sc , 3 dc in the next sc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next sc ;

ch 3, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep {to} once ;

ch 3, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1 , dc in the last dc.

Row 11 - 12 : Rep Rows 9 and 10

Row 13 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-1 sp ; “V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ;

{ch 2, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc ;

ch 3, work the Arrow-head st over the next 3 dc} ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep {to} 4 times ending with “V”-st in the last ch-1 sp. Turn.

Row 14 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V’-st ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 3, sk next arrow-head st, 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 3, sk next arrow-head st, (“V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 2, 2 dc in the same “V”-st)* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 15 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V’-st ; “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ;

*ch 3, sc in the next dc ;

(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) 3 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 16 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

*ch 3, sk the next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) 2 times ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 17 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

*ch 3, sk the next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 18 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ; ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp ,

[dc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the same sc] ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

*ch 3, sk the next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp , rep [to] once ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 19 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

(ch 2, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

[ch 1, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 5, dc in the same ch-3 sp] ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, “V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

*ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 20 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

(ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc) ;

*ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;

rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* till end ;

ch 3, “V”-st in the last “V”-st. Turn.

We’ve now completed the yoke portion of our top and will proceed for the lower repeated portion.

Now for convenience, I’m going to start renumbering our rows .

Please note for all repeat Row instructions given under, it is a repeat of these new rows we’re working on now.

Please do not confuse them with the instructions given for yoke. Thanks

Body of top

Row 1 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

*ch 5, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ;

(ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc) ;

ch 3, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ;

ch 5, 2 dc in the next “V”-st ; ch 2, 2 dc in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 2 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-2 sp , dc in the same ch-2 sp ;

ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-2 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*ch 4, sk Arrowhead st, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 4, sk next Arrowhead st, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 4, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ;

ch 4, sk next 2 dc , sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till end, ending with 2 dc in the last “V”-st ch-2 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same last ch-2 sp. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc , ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

*ch 5, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ;

(ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc) ;

ch 3, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ;

ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st * ;

rep *to* till end,

ending with 2 dc in the last ch-sp ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*ch 4, sk Arrowhead st, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc ;

ch 4, sk next Arrowhead st, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till end, ending with 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 5 - 22 : Rep Rows 3 and 4 to work the pattern for the body of the top, ending with a Row 4.

Now here’s where it gets a little tricky.

Take a look at the finished pattern.

There’s a largish pineapple pattern that completes the base of this top. So I’ve worked as per pattern and worked till Row 23 on body, and find that this works great for me. However, if you find that you want a longer length for your top, may I suggest that you repeat Rows 3 and 4 till you thinkg you have the length you need. Remember though that we will be adding 12 rows for the large pineapple border, so may I suggest you check your gauge and see how many inches make up 12 rows for you and decide on the number of repeats (for Rows 3 & 4) accordingly.

Meanwhile, let’s carry on with the tail end of our pattern.

Row 23 : dc in the 1^st dc , dc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, 2 dc in the same ch-1 sp ;

*ch 5, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ;

(ch 3, dc in the next dc ; ch 5, dc in the same dc) ;

ch 3, work the Arrowhead-st over the next 3 dc ;

[ch 5, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same “V”-st] * ;

rep *to* till end, ending with 2 dc in the last ch-sp ;

ch 1, dc in the same last ch-1 sp ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 24 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-sp , “V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ;

*ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, sk next Arrowhead st, 9 dc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, sk next Arrowhead st, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 4, “V’-sts in the next two ch-2 sps * ;

rep *to* till end, ending with a “V”-st in the last ch-1 sp.Turn.

From the following row, we’ll work one pineapple “V” at a time. So we will work back and forth on the first set of pineapple stitches, complete this first set, fasten off and then re-attach to work the next pineapple.

The ‘dividing’ point will be the two “V’-sts that come between the 9 dcs. The 9 dc’s obviously will work out each pineapple pattern.

Row 24 : sl-st into the 1^st ch-sp , “V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ;

ch 5, dc in the next dc ;

(ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) 7 times ;

ch 5, “V’-st in the next “V’-st. Turn

Row 25 : “V”-st in the 1^st “V”-st ;

ch 5, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) 6 times ;