Sweet Nothings Crochet: LOZENGE TOP

LOZENGE TOP

Did you know the other meaning of lozenge.. I thought it was the generic term for the cough tablet.. but hmm, we learn something every day. Thanks Wikipedia ;) And now you’ll know why I chose this name for the top.

Lozenge : a rhombus or diamond shape.

Lozenge patterns : the patterns comprise of mosaics, lozenges and crosses

This is a simple pattern that looks a lot more complicated than it is. There is one row of slightly difficult work – but once you work one row, you’ll see it is not that hard. Come along then, and let’s get this top figured out.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 200 gms of some Anchor knitting cotton and an unbranded knitting cotton with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic ; 4-ply knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 34” (M/L)

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.

The pattern and the stitches itself are easy, but one of the rows will be a bit tricky the first time around. That said, do come along and you may just realize you are able to do more than you thought you could!

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a crochet slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/ and

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

As always, my notes are chockablock with ideas and you need to think a few things through for your individual project.

Take a look at the photograph here and try to follow my notes.

This is not meant to be a fitted top, but it does fit around the waist and sleeves if you’d like that.

We will work our pattern as two rectangles – one each for the front and back, and then we will join the two parts up.

For this pattern we will start at the base or bottom of the project and work our way to the, shoulders – so instead of working as we usually do from the side to side of our project, we will be working up to down and vice versa from base to shoulders and back.

We will work two rectangles in pattern.

After we finish the two rectangles, we will work a border all around the neck then join the two rectangles.

Then we will join the sides, leaving a space for the armholes and work a small sleeve edging. We will finally work a finish along the bottom edge as well.

So calculations :

1. Keep your round bust / round chest / round waist measurements. Use the largest measure.

2. You need to decide the length for your top.

3. You need a round arm measurement for the sleeves.

4. You need to decide how large a boat neck opening you want.

Now that you are armed with these basics, here’s what you need to keep in mind before you start.

1. You need to decide how wide a base border pattern you want. The base border pattern is that little bit that is worked all around the base of your top and is not in the same pattern as the body of your top. This pattern is just plain sc or hdc (depending on the thickness of your yarn) and will be worked after you have joined the sides of your top – part of the final finishing. This width needs to be deducted from the full length you want for your finished top.

2. You need to decide how much of a shoulder / neckline bit you want. This width too needs to be deducted from the full length you want for your finished top.

3. So say you want a finished length of 21” for your top – and you want the shoulders of 2” + base of 3”, you will work a rectangle of 16” only (21 – 5). This sorts out the length for the top.

This means that you can make this into a crop top as well - just keep the length shorter.

4. You will work the pattern repeat till you get the width you want for your garment. So if you need say a round measurement of 34", you'd work 17.5" for the width. (This is an approximation - you need to calculate according to the stretch of your yarn as well as how loose or baggy you'd like it across the body)

You can make this to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.

Here are the charts that I worked this pattern from.

The stitch count for our pattern is in multiples of 12 + 7 for the length you want for your garment.

Make two rectangles one each for front and back

Start : with fsc in multiples of 12 + 7. Turn.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc ;

*ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;

ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next fsc ; dc in the next 6 fsc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn

We will now work our lozenge pattern in the “V” of the ( ch-3, sc, ch-3 sp).

And what’s our lozenge pattern?

Pretty easy – you will work 3 dc in the second set of ch-3 first, and then you will work ch 1, turn around ; and work 3 dc in that first skipped set of ch-3.

It does not matter if you work the second set of dc over or under the first set of dc.

All you need to remember is to work them the same way every time… and this is only if you are OCD (obsessive compulsive, as I think one must be to some extent about finishing and neatness of work, by the way ;) )about how things look.

So basically, you will skip the 1^st ch-3 sp, work 3 dc in the 2^nd ch-3 sp ; ch 1, then turn around and work 3 dc in that 1^st skipped ch-3 sp. Clear enough?

This whole combination of 6 dc + ch 1 (worked over two 3-dc sets) will be called a lozenge stitch.

The ch 1 is important as it will be the stitch that holds this shape up.

Do not forget it – it will also help you turn around!

We will always work our lozenge stitch in these two ch-3 spaces.

Our pattern will move up and down a bit, so that we can offset our lozenge stitches – but the way we work the stitch stays constant.

Right then, let’s carry on.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

* “Lozenge stitch” over the next two ch-3 sps ;

sc in the next 7 dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 2, sk next 3 dc of Lozenge st, sc in the next sc of Lozenge st ;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc of Lozenge st, dc in the next 7 dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

See how the criss cross diamond has magically formed.. and how beautiful it looks.

Now that you have this figured, I am not going to say “of Lozenge st” over and over.. you know what I mean ;)

Right.. so we will now ‘move’ our Lozenge stitches and work them over the 7-dc set.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next sc ;

2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; dc in the next dc ;

ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;

ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 5 : sc in the 1^st 7 dc ;

*Lozenge st over the next two ch-3 sps ; sc in the next 7 dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Once again we’re working to make this into the diamond shape, so we will work only in the sc in the middle of our Lozenge stitches.

Row 6 : dc in the 1^st 7 sc ;

*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next sc;

ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc in the next 7 dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

and magically we’ve shifted our Lozenge stitches.

Two sets of Lozenge rows, and see the pattern has shifted so beautifully.

I know you have got the pattern down but let’s work the next row together to get an easy pattern repeat.

Row 7 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 6 dc* ;

rep (to) till end. Turn

and just like that we have completed one pattern repeat.

Rep rows 2 – 7 till you have the width of your pattern, ending with a Row 4 or 6.

Remember : Width here will be your half round bust / chest / waist measure.

Now if you remember, we're making this lozenge pattern only for the body of the top. The top and bottom portions are of a different stitch pattern.

So once you have finished the two lozenge rectangles / squares, work a few rows of plain sc/ hdc or dc all the way through from one end to another.

In case you want a neckline, you will need to shape that - else work it as a rectangle, then join the shoulder bits and you will get a scooped boat-neck like neckline.

For shaping neckline, fold your work in half and find the centre. Place marker

Then decide how wide you want it and place markers for either end.

Start working in any plain stitch (sc / hdc or dc) from the armhole to this marker and then work back to armhole.

Continue like this till you reach shoulders.

So how do you know when you have reached shoulder?

You know the length you want for your top, right?

So if you want a small section at the bottom as well, then subtract the full length of your top from the section already made with lozenge stitch, as well as the width you want for the bottom bit and then you will know how many inches till your shoulders.

To put this in numbers :

Say full top length is 22" ; lozenge rectangle length is 16" ; you have 6". So I'd say 3" for the base bit and 3" for the shoulders.

Got it?

For the base border : I have worked alternate rows of all dc and all fpdc stitches.

So I worked Row 1 all dc from end to end ;

Row 2 : fpdc end to end.

You could also work Row 1 fpdc end to end and

Row 2 bpdc end to end.

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Back Post Double Crochet : bpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. Here is an easy video tutorial for the bpdc at https://youtu.be/l9Nt3miOs3s

Sleeve ideas :

In case you want a sleeve, once you have completed back and front, join the shoulders and sides.

Then using any plain stitch (sc /hdc or dc) work all around the armhole and then continue to work the same plain stitch for about 3".

I'd suggest you use whatever stitch you used for that top portion of your top all around the sleeves as well.

And that's it.. we're done

One beautiful Lozenge top ready to go !

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Here are some of my other top creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/all-diamonds-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/03/snazzy-chevron-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2022/02/choco-strawberry-ripple-crop-top.html