Friday, 19 June 2015

KURTA OR KURTI YOKE

KURTA OR KURTI YOKE

After all the tops, vests and girl clothing, I thought of doing something a little different. Here’s a yoke that can be affixed to the top of a dress or vest etc.. Loved how multi-faceted this pattern is .. and there’s a chart available … so yaay.

So for us in India, this would make a swell addition to the neckline of a kurta or kurti.. and this particular pattern would work for both a totally Indian as well as Western outfit.

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you http://tierraindiartesanal.blogspot.in/.  
Yet again I'll point out the difference a yarn can make to the finished creation.  


Difficulty level : Intermediate to advanced crochet skills.
This is an easy pattern stitch-wise, but there are a complicated set of stitch combinations

Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Red Rose knitting cotton yarn,  with a 2.5 mm crochet hook

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                   dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                      ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                      rep : Repeat

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.
This is the basic dc 2-tog
  
Picot : (sc, ch 3, sl-st in same sc) all in the same st or ch-sp. 
Pl view instructions at http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-crochet-a-picot-stitch.html for a refresher of what a 3-ch picot is.
While this is the basic picot stitch, in our pattern here, we'll use a combination picot.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.   The pattern repeat is 18. The original pattern starts with a ch row and then dc, but I’m going to start with fsc as per my usual choice.
We will work back and forth in rows.
There are a lot of brackets / parenthesis used to define different elements of the pattern.  So if working with the pc, I'd suggest that you mark them in different colours for convenience.. 
Well, that's what I do ..

Right.. so let’s get started.

Start with fsc in multiples of 18.  I started with 90 fsc. Mark the centre of this fsc row.
Now there’s a little calculation you need to do here – this pattern has two 3 petal creations on each side , with a five petalled flower in the centre.  So depending on how ‘deep’ you want the neckline, and / or how many 3 petal creations you want each end, you will need to work the multiples and start row stitches.
  
Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; *ch 2, sk next 2 fsc , dc in the next fsc* ; rep *to* till marker ; ch 5, dc in the same marked stitch ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

The following row is a little tricky – so let me explain what we’re doing here.
In this row, we will create the lovely three petalled and five petalled creations.  Now for each little petal we will work a line of 9 ch and then double back or turn and work a few stitches on this chain we’ve just created.  As we want all the three (or five) petals to emerge from the same point, we need to remember this when reading the instructions below.
So we'll have our three petalled creations around the sides of the yoke, and the centre five petals will emerge from the centre ch-5 sp.

So here's the two three  petals along the sides and then the centre five petalled creation

Right then, lets carry on folks..  

Row 2 : sc in the 1st dc ; *(2 sc in the next ch- 2 sp ; sc in the next dc) ; rep (to) once ; 2 sc in the next ch-2 sp ; [ch 9, turn and working on this ch-9 , sk 1st 3 ch, sc in the next ch ; hdc in the next ch ; dc in the next 3 ch, and hdc in the last ch] ; sc in the next  dc ; {rep [to] once ; sc in the same dc} ; rep {to} once ; rep (to) 4 times* ; rep *to* once till the ch-5 sp ; rep [to] 5 times in same ch-5 sp ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

And phew! You’ve done the most difficult part of this pattern.. so now its easy peasy through to the end.

In the following row, we will be using the ch-3 sps that are the ‘top’ of the ch-9 sps of the previous row, to ‘hold’ our petals in place.

Row 3 : sc in the 1st sc ; 
*(ch 5 , sc in the next ch-3 petal sp ; ch 7, sc in the next ch-3 petal sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 petal sp ; ch 5, sk 2 dc and sc in the next dc ) ;   rep (to) once* ; 
[ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 petal sp] ; 
rep [to] once ; {ch 7, sc in the next ch-3 petal sp} ; rep {to} once ; rep [to] once ; 
ch 5, sk 2 dc and sc in the next dc ; rep *to* till end.  Turn

In the following row we’ll be using a dc-2 tog.  Now for this stitch, we will have the first half of the stitch on one ch-5 sp, and the second half of the same dc 2-tog over the next ch-5 sp.  As it will be really difficult to write all this down in the instruction below, do note that this is what is meant by the dc 2-tog that follows. The other thing to remember is that after we complete our dc 2-tog, we are in the next ch-5 sp, so we will work that next set of sts in this 2nd ch-5 sp
Please follow the chart as well.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st sc ; [ch 1 , dc] 2 times in the next ch-5 sp ;
*rep [to] 4 times in the next ch- 5 sp ; ch 1, dc in the next sc (in the centre petal) ; ch 3, dc in the same sc ; rep [to] 4 times in the next ch-5 sp ; rep [to] once in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 1,  dc 2-tog over the next two ch-5 sps ; rep [to] once in the next ch-5 sp* ;  
rep *to* once ;
{rep [to] 5 times in the next ch- 5 sp ; ch 1, dc in the next sc (in the 2nd  petal of the 5 petals in the centre of work) ; ch 3, dc in the same sc ;
rep [to] 5 times in the next ch-7 sp ;
rep [to] 5 times in the next ch-7 sp ; ch 1, dc in the next sc (in the 4th petal of the centre 5 petals) ; ch 3, dc in the same sc ;
rep [to]  times in the next ch- 5 sp ;
rep [to] once in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 1,  dc 2-tog over the next two ch-5 sps ; rep [to] once in the next ch-5 sp } ;
rep *to* till end.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc ; [ch 1 , dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 7 times ; ch 1 , dc in the next ch-3 sp , ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 sp ; rep [to] 5 times ; 
*ch 7, sk next 2 dc and dc 2-tog, rep [to] 6 times ; ch 1 , dc in the next ch-3 sp , ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 sp ; rep [to] 5 times ; ch 1 , dc in the next ch-3 sp , ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 sp ; rep [to] 5 times*; 
rep *to* till end.
In the last rep, you do [to] all the way to the last dc.

To get the lovely “V” –shape of this yoke, we need to increase the spacing in the centre 5-petalled flower, and so the instructions are a little different just for that section, from this row on.
If you want a more circular finish (as against a “V”, then you just do the *to* till end and that’s what you’ll get.  How do I know that.. well I made that ‘mistake’, didn’t I ? J )

Row 6 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; [ch 1 , dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 7 times ; ch 1 , dc in the next ch-3 sp , ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 sp ; rep [to] 3 times ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the same ch-5 sp ; ch 2, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ; rep [to] 3 times ; ch 1 , dc in the next ch-3 sp , ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 sp ; rep [to] 3 times* ; 
rep *to* once ;
{ch 5, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the same ch-5 sp ;  ch 5, sk next dc, dc in the next dc} ; rep [to] 5 times, ch 3, dc in the same dc ; rep [to] 4 times ;
rep *to* till end.
In the last rep, you do [to] all the way to the last 2 dc ; dc 2-tog in the last 2 dc.



Row 7 : Rep Row 6

In this final row we’ll use an unusual picot – In the ch-sps of our last row, we will do a triple (or three) sets of picots.  The picot is the regular (ch 3, sl-st in the 1st ch), but instead of doing one picot and then sc or dc into the st, we will do Picot 1, followed by Picot 2 and then Picot 3 all in the same ch-sp and then dc in the next dc. So for instructions below, Picot denotes the combination of three picots done together.

Row 8 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; [ch 1 , dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 7 times ; ch 1 , dc in the next ch-3 sp ; Picot and dc in the same ch-3 sp ; rep [to] 2 times ; *ch 3, sk next 2 dc, Picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc ; rep [to] once ; ch 1 , dc in the next ch-3 sp , Picot and dc in the same ch-3 sp ; rep [to] 2 times* ; rep *to* once ;
{ch 5, sk next 2 dc, Picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, Picot in the next ch-5 sp ;  ch 3, Picot in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 2 dc} ; ch 1 , dc in the next ch-3 sp ; Picot and dc in the same ch-3 sp ; rep [to] 2 times ;
rep *to* till end.
In the last rep, you do [to] all the way to the last 2 dc ; dc 2-tog in the last 2 dc.

Right then.. as usual, once done, fasten off.. weave in all ends…


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Have a great day and see you soon. 


And just a quick look at some of my other free patterns.









http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/02/starry-purse.html

http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/10/all-pineapples-skirt.html

http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2014/08/simply-lovely-skirt.html

 http://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/06/stunning-doiley.html