Wednesday, 17 June 2015

EXQUISITE CHEVRON GIRL’S DRESS

EXQUISITE CHEVRON GIRL’S DRESS

OOH how beautiful is this for a cute for a little lady ?? Now come on..admit it, you couldn’t resist this either, now could you? J

So with my stash of yarn ready, this one is going to be a beauty…  I already feel it.  There’s just that something about chevrons..

And as usual, as I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.  This is the beautiful dress that had me .. on the first look !



Difficulty level : Intermediate to advanced crochet skills
Materials used : Today I’ve used a light 3 ply acrylic yarn,  with a 3 mm crochet hook
(The white dress above seems to be of a lovely light cotton)

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                    dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                                 ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                                 rep : Repeat
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

“V” - stitch : V-st : (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Small Shell stitch : (dc ; ch 3, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Shell stitch : (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

Picot : (sc, ch 3, sl-st in same sc) all in the same st or ch-sp. 
Pl view instructions at http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-crochet-a-picot-stitch.html for a refresher of what a 3-ch picot is.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  We start this lovely dress from the chest for the yoke, going past the armhole and then upwards to the neckline. We will make two halves and then join the shoulders, and sides of the yoke
We will then come back to this start fsc line, and then work our skirt off this round.  I’d suggest that you work the skirt portion depending on the length you wish and the gauge of the yarn – and not necessarily on the number of repeats shown in the picture or this write up.

Right.. so let’s get started.

YOKE : (Make two)

Start with fsc in multiples of three and with the number of stitches you need for the round chest of person intended (for this creation)… so I’d suggest you measure about 2-3” below the armhole for this measure.

Note : I’ve decided to play with colours, so the first row is in a contrast colour (CC) and then the next two are in the main colour (MC).  If you too decide to use two colours, remember that in the last join up stitch, you bring up both the colours to the top line (working row), so that there is the least amount of trailing thread at the back of your work at all times.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st dc ; V-st in the 2nd fsc ; *sk 2 fsc, V-st in next fsc* ; rep *to* till 2nd last fsc ; dc in the last fsc. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc ; V-st in the next V-st and in each V-st till end ; dc in the last dc. Turn.

Rep Row 2 till you reach the armhole level, (measuring from chest upwards)

Armhole decrease :
This pattern has a really easy armhole decrease.  We will decrease for the first 2 (or 3, depending on which size you are making) rows after armhole. 

Decrease Row : sl-st in the 1st dc and into the ch-1 sp of the 1st V-st , dc in the same V-st ; V-st in each V-st till the last V-st ; dc in last V-st.  Turn.

Rep Decrease once (or twice) till you have a neat armhole shape, and then continue without shaping, till you reach the height needed for your neckline.

Without shaping means that in that 1st st you will do your dc, and then V-sts in all the V-sts till end, ending again with the last dc. 



Neckline decrease :
Again, the neckline decrease for this pattern is really.  As you can see in the chart below, the designer has divided the yoke portion into a neat half – so when you reach half the length needed for the armhole (which is half the round armhole measure), you start the neckline decrease.  You could decide to keep the front lower than the back, ofcourse… but that’s an easy calculation always.
So for the front neckline decrease, count the V-sts you have for front, and find the centre.  Its just the centre three V-sts that make that first row of decrease.  So starting from the armhole edge, you will work all the way till one V-st before that centre marked st , work a dc in that st before centre st, and turn. 
The decrease is exactly the same as armhole but you will only decrease along the centre neckline and not armhole edge.

Decrease one st along the neckline edge for the next few rows (depending on which size you’re making), till you have sufficient V-sts along the shoulder (The designer has ensured there are four V-sts for each shoulder). Once you have the st count, continue working without increase till you reach the total length needed for the yoke till shoulder. 



Fasten off and weave in ends.

Re-attach your yarn at the armhole edge for the back, and work the similar decrease (depending on whether you want the same neckline shape or a higher neckline for back) till shoulder.  When fastening off, leave a tail so that you can sew in your two shoulder bits.

Great.. yoke complete.  So attach the shoulders and sides to finish off the top of your dresss.

For yoke finishing, you can do a round of sc followed by a round of picot all around - and of course all around the armhole too.  

So this is around the front.. 


and then the back

Now for the skirt portion, we will turn our work so that the neckline is now facing us, and will work on the lower part of that first fsc cast on row we’ve made.

SKIRT :
The repeat count for the skirt portion is 10. 

So before we start on our first round, let’s do the following :
a)    Count the fsc you have started with and see if they fit the needed repeat count
b)    Figure how many chevron “pleats” you want in your dress – each repeat will give you one chevron pleat
c)     Work one round of sc into the fsc round, increasing as many sts as needed to get the repeat count as well as the pleats desired.
We will work our skirt in rounds, so at the end of every round, please join with a sl-st.

As we’re working in a chevron pattern and in rounds, there is a small possibility that we’re going to be starting at different points – so please try and follow with the chart as well as the written instructions. 

Round 1 : dc in the 1st 2 sc ; *ch 3, sk next 3 sc ; V-st in the next 2 sc ; ch 3, sk next 3 sc, dc in the next 2 sc* ; rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.
(In the last rep, you will join to the 1st 2 sc, which will be the last 2 dc on your last rep)

We will use our small shell st in all the V-sts here.  Shell stitch : (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Round 2 : sc in the 1st dc , sk next dc ; *ch 3, Shell st in the next 2 ch-1 sps (of V-sts) ; ch 3, sc in the next 2 dc* ; rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.
(In the last rep, you will join to the 1st 2 sc, which will be the last 2 dc on your last rep)

Round 3 : sc in the 1st dc ; *ch 3, sk next sc , Shell st in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 5, Shell st in the next ch-1 sp ; ch 3, sc in the next sc* ; rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sl-st till the 1st ch-sp (of the shell st) ; Shell st in the same ch-1 sp ; 
*ch 3, dc in the ch-5 sp ; ch 3, Shell st in the next ch-1 sp ; sk the ch-sps and sc, Shell st in the next ch-1 sp * ; rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

In this round, we’ll use the Small Shell stitch : (dc ; ch 3, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.

Round 5 : sl-st till the 1st ch-sp (of the shell st) ; V-st in the same ch-1 sp ; 
*ch 3, Small Shell st in the next dc ; ch 3, V-sts in the next 2 ch-1 sps * ; 
rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

In the following round we’ll do a dc 2-tog, but instead of doing it over 2 dc’s as we usually do, we’ll do it over 2 V-sts. So for this, we’ll do one part of the dc 2-tog in the ch-sp of the 1st V-st and the second part of the dc 2-tog in the ch-sp of the next V-st.

Round 6 : sl-st till the 1st ch-sp (of the shell st) ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 V-sts ; 
*ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 5, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc 2-tog over the next 2 V-sts * ; 
rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 7 : sl-st till the 1st 2 dc’s ; 2 dc in the 1st dc , dc in the next dc ; *ch 3, dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, sc in the next dc 2-tog ; ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc* ; rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 8 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; *sk next 2 ch-sps, dc in the next 3 dc ; ch 3, V-st in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc* ; rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 9 : sl-st into the 1st dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; 
*ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; V-st over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 10 : sl-st into the 1st dc, dc in the next dc ; 
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ; ch 3, dc in the next dc, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ; dc in the next dc* ; 
rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 11 : sl-st into the next dc set,  dc in the next 3 dc ; 
*ch 3, small shell st in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ; ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 12 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; *(ch 3, 2 dc in next dc ; ch 3, 2 dc in next dc) ; [ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ; ch 2, sk dc-tog , dc in the next 3 dc]* ; 
rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 13 : dc 2-tog in the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ;  
*ch 3, 2 dc in next dc ; ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp ; ch 5, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc ; [ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc , dc 2-tog over the next 3 dc, dc in the next 2 dc]*;  
rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 14 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ; dc in the next dc ;  *ch 3, dc in next 3 dc ; ch 3, Small shell in next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ; [ch 3, dc in the next dc ; dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ; dc in the next dc ]*;  rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 15 : dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ; 
*ch 3, dc in next 3 dc ; (ch 3, 2 dc in next dc ; ch 5, 2 dc in the next dc) ; ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ; ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc*;  
rep *to* till end and a dc join to the 1st st.

Round 16 : dc in the 1st dc ; *ch 2, sk dc-3 tog , dc in next 3 dc ; (ch 3, 2 dc in next dc ; dc in the next dc ; ch 3, dc in the ch-5 sp ; ch  3, dc in the next dc , 2 dc in the next dc) ; ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc*;  rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 17 : dc 2-tog in the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ; 
*ch 3, dc in next 3 dc ; ch 3, small shell in next dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; [ch  3, dc in the next 2 dc , dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc , dc in the next 2 dc] *;  
rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 18 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc ; *ch 3, dc in next 3 dc ; (ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; ch 5, 2 dc in the next dc) ; [ch  3, dc in the next dc , dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc , dc in the next dc]*;  rep *to* till end and join to the 1st st.

Round 19 : dc 3-tog over the 1st 3 dc ; 
*ch 3, dc in next 3 dc ; (ch 3, 2 dc in next dc ; ch 3, dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc) ; ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ; ch 3, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc*;  
rep *to* till end and a dc join to the 1st st.

So we’ve come to the third chevron point and it’s a good time to look at what we’ve made thus far.  As you can see, our pattern has grown one round with each chevron.  So for our first, we used six rounds, then 7 and now 8 rounds to reach our chevron point.  In the following rounds, we will add one round each to reach our chevron point.

Round 19 is similar to (but not exactly like) Round 15.

Using the basic idea from Round 16 then, we’ll work our next round. So before I let you go and work the rest of the chevrons for your lovely dress, let’s quickly analyze how the pattern works out.
The chevron has two parts – one is the pointed top edge, and the other is the two starting bits.  The starting bits start with a dc, and then the small shell ; and as you work your fresh new chevron, you’re basically finishing off the earlier one.  Each new chevron, as I’ve already mentioned grows every round – which is why it is difficult to write out the complete pattern... as all of us are making differently sized lengths.


Now armed with this information and the full chart.. enjoy completing your lovely dress too.


I’ve also attached the chart for the last finishing row.  Frankly with chevrons, you can just finish off with any round, and it’ll still look perfect – but as there is a chart for it.. here goes.



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Have a great day and see you soon. J

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