Sweet Nothings Crochet: EXQUISITE FLORAL TOP

EXQUISITE FLORAL TOP

This is yet another lovely pattern off a Pinterest board that had a neat convenient chart along with it. I loved that it looks like a set of complicated motifs, but it is a neat continuous pattern.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used our lovely Indian Red rose knitting cotton yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook .

Same pattern, different yarn and you'll have a totally different end product.. what a difference a yarn makes!
This yarn is not specific for the pattern.
Use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this to any size.

For Indians : You can use Anchor knitting cotton as well

For Non-Indians : I have used a regular knitting cotton that technically uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook (recommended). I use a larger hook as I like the extra stretch it affords the end product. Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced.

Lots and lots of photographs and instructions.. so do come along and we'll work on this together

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat
st(s) : Stitch(es) lp(s) : Loop(s)
sl-st : Slip stitch
yo : Yarn over hk : Hook
fsc : Foundation single crochet
sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet

dc 2-tog : Double Crochet 2-together

dc 3-tog : Double Crochet 3-together

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Slip stitch : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weB3QNbA8Iw&t=1s

Instructions :

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.

This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

The Pinterest link https://www.pinterest.com/pin/470063279836594237/

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.
I have decided to start this top from the waist and then work up towards the neck and shoulders. I am going to start with a foundation double crochet (fdc) and then work the lovely floral yoke pattern.

When done, we will come back to this foundation row and work a little floral pattern at the base of the waist.

So when calculating the length, ensure that you keep the base / border floral pattern bit in mind. This becomes important only if you are strict about the length of your top. In this case, you would need to work a swatch to gauge how many inches make up this floral pattern and then work your top length keeping this in mind.

In all my tops, I first decide what length I want the top. If it is going all the ay down to my hips, then I need the bust, waist and hip measurements. I will then start with the largest measure. As we generally work two halves for our top (one back and one front), we always start with half the round measurement using the largest measure of our body.

Today's pattern is pretty simple. We start at the base and work our way up to the armholes, working in dc all the way. You can choose to work in dc , hdc or sc. We then work the floral "V" pattern for the neckline. Finally we go back down to the starting row and work a floral border to finish.

As I have worked. the body of my work in dc, I started with fdc.

In case you want to work the body in sc , start with fsc.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

In case you want to work the body in hdc , start with fhdc.

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) : This is an easy way to start a row of hdc without the starting chain row.

Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/SEG2UCRfypA

Our stitch count is in multiples of 6 + 1

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start with fdc needed for half the round waist / bust / hip measure. Turn
(whichever is the higher measure).

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fdc and in each fdc till the end. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc and in each dc till the end. Turn.

Rep Row 2 till your project is just under the armhole.

Calculations : Now here’s what I suggest.
Do a quick swatch of the pattern for the neckline to see how many inches make up one pattern repeat.
This way you can then decide where you need to start your pattern and how far under the armhole you will work.

Once I’d worked this out, here’s what I did.
I worked out which was the centre dc of that last row.
I then skipped 2 dc on either side of that centre dc, and placed two new markers. Take off that centre marker now.

Pattern Row 1 : dc in the 1^st dc and each dc till the 1^st marker ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next marked dc,
and in each dc till end. Turn.

Move markers one row up.

We are now going to start on our first flower.
Now each petal of our flower is a dc 3-tog.
We will work till that 1^st marker, or the dc before that ch-3 sp.

In this row, we will work on the first four petals of our flower, which will be in the (to).

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch.

Visit this video tutorial at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCQOBc83Vxo

If this video tutorial does not open, go to https://youtu.be/qlnqXDB3OUM

Pattern Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc and each dc till the dc before ch-3 sp ;

ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog in the earlier dc ;
[dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp] ;

sk next sc, rep [to] once ;
ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog onto the top of the earlier dc 3-tog;
dc in the next marked dc,
and in each dc till end. Turn.

Move markers one row up.

In the following row we will start with our next set of flowers.
So we will first move our markers five dc on either side and place the markers in the next dc.

Pattern Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc and each dc till the 1^st marker ;

(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ;

[ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ;

{ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog} ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc ;

rep (to) once ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Move markers one row up.

In this row, we will work on the first four petals of our flower for the next set, which will be in the (to).

Pattern Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc and each dc till the dc before ch-3 sp ;

{ (ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog in the earlier dc ;

[dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp] ;
sk next sc, rep [to] once ;

ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog onto the top of the earlier dc 3-tog) ;

dc in the next marked dc} ;

ch 5, sk next two ch-1 sps and ch-3 sp, dc in the next dc ;

rep {to} once ;
and in each dc till end. Turn.

Move markers one row up.

In this row, we will work on the first four petals of our flower for the next set, which will be in the (to).

Pattern Row 5 : dc in the 1^st dc and each dc till the 1^st marker ;

(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ;

[ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ;

{ch 3, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog} ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc ;

ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ;

rep [to] once ;

rep (to) once ;
dc in each dc till end. Turn.

This completes one pattern repeat.
Now do you see how we are growing our pattern sideways, adding one flower per row, and neatly making a “V’ shaped front floral yoke every alternate row.

So continue increasing it sideways till you reach the side of the armhole.

Rep Rows 4 & 5 till your pattern reaches the armhole.

Now you need to remember that we need to decrease and shape the armhole.

So while our pattern continues in the centre, I’m just going to write out the armhole decrease as well.

Armhole decrease Row 1 : Sl-st into the 1^st 5 dc ;
dc in the next dc and each dc till we reach the centre pattern section ;
work the pattern section as per the instructions above ;
dc in each dc after pattern till the last 5 dc, sk last 5 dc. Turn.

Armhole decrease Row 2 : dc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 dc
and each dc till the centre pattern section ;
work the pattern section as per the instructions above ;
dc in each dc after pattern till the last 2 dc,
dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.

Armhole Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc and each dc till the centre pattern section ;
work the pattern section as per the instructions above ;
dc in each dc after pattern till the last dc. Turn.

We will now continue without further armhole decrease and with just the centre pattern growing with each alternate row.

Rep the pattern row and with a straight armhole side, till you reach the neckline level.

For the neck, what I’ve done is mark the centre of the top for the neckline and then worked the pattern only till that point, and then turn.

We will then work only one side of our top to the shoulder, and then come back to work the other side of the front.

There is one pattern here for the back, and another pattern for the base of the top. The two patterns are similar, but they give a different result. Look through both to decide which one you wish to use where.

BACK

The back for this top starts in the same way as the front.
You will work the plain dc’s all the way past the armhole section and then we will only work the pattern just off the shaping for the armhole.

So once the plain dc bit is done, let’s work the pattern.

Pattern Row 1 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc 3-tog in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ;

[ch 3, sk next 2 dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc] ;

*rep (to) once ;
rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end,
ending with a (to). Turn.

In this row, we will work on the first four petals of our flower for the next set, which will be in the (to).

Pattern Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next dc) ;
{ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog in the earlier dc ;
[dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp] ;
sk next sc, rep [to] once ;
ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog onto the top of the earlier dc 3-tog ;
dc in the next dc}* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ending with a rep (to). Turn.

Pattern Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ;

{[ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ;
ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same dc 3-tog ; ch 1, dc in the next dc}* ;

rep *to* till end ;
ending with a rep (to). Turn.

Pattern Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*{ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog in the earlier dc ;
[dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp] ;

sk next sc, rep [to] once ;

ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog onto the top of the earlier dc 3-tog ;
dc in the next dc} ;

(ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next ch-1 sp, dc in the next dc)* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ending with a rep (to). Turn.

Pattern Row 5 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*{[ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ;
ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same dc 3-tog ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc} ;
(ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc)* ;

rep *to* till end ;
ending with a rep (to). Turn.

LOWER BORDER OF TOP :

For this lower part of top, we’re working in a round, so join the sides first and then follow pattern instructions.

Our pattern repeat is at 6.

Pattern Round 1 : dc in the 1^st 5 dc ;

(ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc 3-tog in the next dc ;
ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same dc ; ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ;

[dc in the next 4 dc] ;

*rep (to) once ;
rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till end,
and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Pattern Round 2 : sl-st into the 1^st dc ; dc in the same 1^st dc ;
dc in the next 2 dc ;

*sk next dc, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc* ;

rep *to* till end,
and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

In this row, we will work on the first four petals of our flower for the next set, which will be in the (to).

Pattern Round 3 : dc in the 1^st dc 3-tog ;

*(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next dc 3-tog) ;

{ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog in the earlier dc ;
[dc 3-tog in the next ch-3 sp] ;

sk next sc, rep [to] once ;

ch 3, turn and dc 2-tog onto the top of the earlier dc 3-tog ;
dc in the next dc 3-tog}*;
rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Pattern Round 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

*(ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, dc in the next dc) ;

{[ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next dc 3-tog] ;
ch 3, dc 3-tog in the same dc 3-tog ;
ch 1, dc in the next dc}* ;

rep *to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1^st dc.

I’ve decided to work a beaded row.

Optional last round : sc in the 1^st st ;

*ch 3, sl-st into the next sc ;
ADD BEAD ; sl-st into the same sc* ;

rep *to* all around ;
ADD BEAD, sl-st into the 1^st st.

Note : You could decide to do the border round that we’ve done around the neckline and armhole instead of the Optional last round above as well.

So let your creativity flow and have fun.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing :

For a neat border around the neckline and armhole, here’s what I’ve done.
I’ve run a round of sc first, and then a little shelled border all around.

You could work work a reverse sc / crab stitch border too

Crab Stitch or Reverse Single Crochet stitch : Here’s an easy video tutorial at https://youtu.be/cG3crwyHPnk

Attach your yarn at the shoulder on either side, and we’re working a round of ch-3 sps all around. Now around certain parts of the neckline and armhole, it may be difficult to see how you get the ch-3 sps, so just wing it and ensure that you get an even sized set of spaces.
The number of spaces do not matter, so go ahead and have fun.

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Round 1 : sc in the 1^st st ;
(ch 3, sc in the horizontal bar end of the next st) ;
rep (to) all around
and join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 2 : ch 3 + 2 dc all in the same 1^st sc ; sc in the 1^st ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3 + 2 dc all in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
* sl-st into the next sc ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all the way around,
and join with a sl-st to the 1^st sc.

Note : I’ve decided to use a pearl bead in this round.
So, I’ve done the ch 3 + 3 dc in the sc, and then added the bead, and then sc in the ch-3 sp. See if this works for you too.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/gulabi-top.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/08/vibhinna-top.html