Wednesday, 17 September 2014

NOT YOUR REGULAR CHEVRON DRESS

free crochet baby dress, free crochet dress pattern


NOT YOUR REGULAR CHEVRON DRESS


Just look at this beautiful creation .. how can one just look at it and not want to make it ?
I admire the brain of the designer to come up with this pattern – a chevron, but not quite… awesome.

This is not my pattern, and I take no credit for it. (Original pattern : www.korolevstvo-masterov.ru)




I found this pattern floating on the internet – and as it only has a chart, I am transcribing (so to say) the chart and writing out my pattern for those who need that little bit more of an explanation.

The charts attached here are those I found on the original pattern sheets, of the designer (I think).

This pattern is made in two parts.  The first part is the yoke, and we start off at the neck and move down towards the waist. 

Materials used : Stylecraft 4-ply baby yarn ~ gms ; with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook
For Indian yarn users : The yarn I am using is a  little thicker than our 3 ply yarn and a little thinner than our Oswal 4 ply yarns (that we get in hanks).  

Size : 1 year old – Chest : 20” x Length : 19.5”
Gauge : 2 rows (high) x 5 dc (across) = 1”

Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainelss dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.
“V”- stitch : “V”-st : (dc, ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet                                                 sc : Single Crochet
dc : Double Crochet                                                          yo : Yarn Over
hk : Hook                                                                                sk : Skip
sl-st : Slip stitch

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
You can make this dress to suit any size, using any yarn / hook you want.  Just ensure that you get the stitch count right, and you've got a beautiful baby dress. 

For this creation, we will  start from the yoke, and work up to the shoulders.  We will then go back to that first yoke row and work down for the skirt portion.

PART 1 : THE YOKE

Note : I’ve made this dress for a 9 -12 month old Size 20 chest, and started with (14 sts x 3 sides) + (7 sts x 2 for back) = 56 fsc.  The chart below is the original one, for information.  The stitch count in the chart would probably work for a 3 yr old child.  I have also attached below a chart for starting with 56 fsc (from another pattern) – so choose your yoke size and let’s carry on.  

Please also check the top of this blog where there are links for neck sizing.  The chart(s) come with age and standard sizes. So say you are looking at 0-6 messes (months), your start will be 54 cadenas (stitches).  You will place markers for the corners at  8th st ; 11th st ; 16th st; 11th st.  This chart is designed so that you will have an opening at the back (so 8 + 8 for back and 16 for front)  The 11 each side will be the shoulder / armhole opening.  Easy enough, right?

 I am writing specific instructions according to the size I have made.  

Round 1 : Start with 56 fsc.  Turn.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st fsc ; dc in the next 5 fsc ; 2 dc in next fsc ; 
*ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc ; dc in next 12 fsc ; 2 dc in next fsc* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in the last 6 fsc.  Turn.
Note : The (2 dc in next fsc ;  *ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc) marks the corner.  If you are using any other count start, ensure that you get the (to) in each corner.  Remember that each corner has this pattern going along, no matter what your stitch count for the stitches in between corners.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) twice ;
*ch 1, dc in ch-2 sp ; ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
rep from (to) 7 times ; ch 1, dc in next dc* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; ch 1, dc in ch-2 sp ; ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; 
rep from (to) 3 times ; dc in last dc.  Turn.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ; *2 dc in next ch-1 sp , ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; rep from (to) 10 times* ; rep from *to* twice ;
2 dc in ch-2 sp ; ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; rep from (to) 4 times ; dc in last dc.  Turn.

Rep Rows 2 and 3, ending with Row 3 ,  till you have a yoke of length ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of 9.5-10”.
After completion of yoke and before starting on the skirt portion, I did 2 rows of sc for placket along the back edge, ensuring I made the ‘eyeholes’ for my buttons on one side, and then joined the placket at the bottom edge, so it is now easier to calculate stitches for start of skirt portion.  
Pattern with a start of 56 sts (ch used here, fsc used by me)

Detail of corner
This is the chart from the original designer


PART 2 : THE SKIRT


I prefer to start my dress projects from the centre back, but this should work even if you re-attach and start from under the arm.  
Do remember that the first row we need to close up the armhole opening - so when you reach the corner ch-2 sps, you will do one half of the corner st in one ch-2 sp, and the other half in the other ch-2 sp (i.e assuming you are in the back portion ch-2 sp, and we’re working on a 2dc pair st, you will have one half of the pair in the back portion, and the next dc in the front half)

Finally, our skirt is in multiples of 8. 
So on completion of your yoke, please count and see that you have an even multiple of 8 to start.  

Round 1 : “V”- st in the 1st st ; ch 1, sk next 3 sts, (1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next st ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next st ; ch 1, sk next 3 sts, (1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next st* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.



Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; ch 1,  (3 dc, ch 2,  dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.



Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; ch 1, (1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; ch 1, (1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.



Round 4 : Rep Round 2



Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; 
ch 1, (1 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; ch 1, (1 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.



Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; 
ch 1, (4 dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; ch 1,  (4 dc, ch 2,  dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : Rep Round 5

Round 8 : Rep Round 6



I am sure you’ve got the pattern now.. every four lines, you’re adding one dc to the group, and every alternate round you’re moving your group of stitches from one side to the other.  
Basically we will rep Rounds 5 & 6  – note that the increases have been indicated by the designer with a darker dc as are the increases in the chains (the first ch increase coming in Round 9).
And here’s the full chart .  

So you’re all set to continue now.   Work till you have the length of dress needed.   Right at the bottom there is a border, so check the pattern and if you are going to work that border in, then work 2 rows less  (as that's our border)  than full length needed.J

There is a border at the very end ..Now the designer has reached a “dc-set” of 9 dc’s so in her border, she’s ensured she has 9 dc’s but they’re in a different ‘set’ – she’s used a  [(dc 2-tog) twice, dc,  (dc 2-tog) twice] combination. 

Chart for the border

Finished photo of the designer's project
And can you believe it.. you’re done ! Great job !
So as usual, fasten off, weave in ends.. add a set of buttons around the back and beautify with a lovely satin ribbon ! J

Wow ! This one was a quick project and I’ve really enjoyed making it – hopefully so have you.

So ciao, and see you soon.. in the next blog.  Have a good day too J

Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ 



And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360  for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


I have a few similar creations already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go