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Wednesday, 17 September 2014

NOT YOUR REGULAR CHEVRON DRESS


NOT YOUR REGULAR CHEVRON DRESS

Just look at this beautiful creation .. how can one just look at it and not want to make it ?
I admire the brain of the designer to come up with this pattern – a chevron, but not quite… awesome.

This is not my pattern, and I take no credit for it. (Original pattern : www.korolevstvo-masterov.ru)



I found this pattern floating on the internet – and as it only has a chart, I am transcribing (so to say) the chart and writing out my pattern for those who need that little bit more of an explanation.

The charts attached here are those I found on the original pattern sheets, of the designer (I think).

This pattern is made in two parts.  The first part is the yoke, and we start off at the neck and move down towards the waist. 

Materials used : Stylecraft 4-ply baby yarn ~ gms ; with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook
For Indian yarn users : The yarn I am using is a  little thicker than our 3 ply yarn and a little thinner than our unbranded / Oswal 4 ply yarns (that we get in hanks).  So try and match gauge.

Size : 1 year old – Chest : 20” x Length : 19.5”
Gauge : 2 rows (high) x 5 dc (across) = 1”

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainelss dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.
“V”- stitch : “V”-st : (dc, ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet                                                 sc : Single Crochet
dc : Double Crochet                                                      yo : Yarn Over
hk : Hook                                                                     sk : Skip
sl-st : Slip stitch

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

PART 1 : THE YOKE

Note : I’ve made this dress for a 9 -12 month old Size 20 chest, and started with (14 sts x 3 sides) + (7 sts x 2 for back) = 56 fsc.  The chart below is the original one, for information.  The stitch count in the chart would probably work for a 3 yr old child.  I have also attached below a chart for starting with 56 fsc (from another pattern) – so choose your yoke size and let’s carry on.

Round 1 : Start with 56 fsc.  Turn.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st fsc ; dc in the next 5 fsc ; 2 dc in next fsc ; *ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc ; dc in next 12 fsc ; 2 dc in next fsc* ; rep from *to* twice ; ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in the last 6 fsc.  Turn.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) twice ;
*ch 1, dc in ch-2 sp ; ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; rep from (to) 7 times ; ch 1, dc in next dc ; rep from *to* twice ; ch 1, dc in ch-2 sp ; ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; rep from (to) 3 times ; dc in last dc.  Turn.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) ; rep from (to) 3 times ; *2 dc in next ch-1 sp , ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; rep from (to) 10 times* ; rep from *to* twice ;
2 dc in ch-2 sp ; ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ; rep from (to) 4 times ; dc in last dc.  Turn.

Rep Rows 2 and 3, ending with Row 3 ,  till you have a yoke of length ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of 9.5-10”.
After completion of yoke and before starting on the skirt portion, I did 2 rows of sc for placket along the back edge, ensuring I made the ‘eyeholes’ for my buttons on one side, and then joined the placket at the bottom edge, so it is now easier to calculate stitches for start of skirt portion.  
Pattern with a start of 56 sts (ch used here, fsc used by me)

Detail of corner
This is the chart from the original designer


PART 2 : THE SKIRT


I prefer to start my dress projects from the centre back, but this should work even if you re-attach and start from under the arm.  Do remember that the first row we need to close up the armhole opening - so when you reach the corner ch-2 sps, you will do one half of the corner st in one ch-2 sp, and the other half in the other ch-2 sp (i.e assuming you are in the back portion ch-2 sp, and we’re working on a 2dc pair st, you will have one half of the pair in the back portion, and the next dc in the front half)

Finally, our skirt is in multiples of 8. So on completion of your yoke, please count and see that you have an even multiple of 8 to start.

Round 1 : “V”- st in the 1st st ; ch 1, sk next 3 sts, (1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next st ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next st ; ch 1, sk next 3 sts, (1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next st* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.



Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; ch 1,  (3 dc, ch 2,  dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.



Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; ch 1, (1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; ch 1, (1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.



Round 4 : Rep Round 2



Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; ch 1, (1 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; ch 1, (1 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.



Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ; ch 1, (4 dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the next “V” st ; ch 1,  (4 dc, ch 2,  dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ; rep from *to* till end.  Join with sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 7 : Rep Round 5

Round 8 : Rep Round 6



I am sure you’ve got the pattern now.. every four lines, you’re adding one dc to the group, and every alternate round you’re moving your group of stitches from one side to the other.  So here’s the full chart – note that the increases have been indicated by the designer with a darker dc as are the increases in the chains (the first ch increase coming in Round 9).

So you’re all set to continue now. J

There is a border at the very end ..Now the designer has reached a “dc-set” of 9 dc’s so in her border, she’s ensured she has 9 dc’s but they’re in a different ‘set’ – she’s used a  [(dc 2-tog) twice, dc,  (dc 2-tog) twice] combination. 

Chart for the border

Finished photo of the designer's project
And can you believe it.. you’re done ! Great job !
So as usual, fasten off, weave in ends.. add a set of buttons around the back and beautify with a lovely satin ribbon ! J

Wow ! This one was a quick project and I’ve really enjoyed making it – hopefully so have you.

So ciao, and see you soon.. in the next blog.  Have a good day too J