This crochet dress looks like it's made with the crochet chevron stitch but while it has the delicate chevron look, it is a totally different stitch. The delicate lacy bodice that gives this neat square neck finish that gradually opens up into this lacy "A"-lined dress is such a beautiful creation. How can one just look at it and not want to make it? I admire the brain of
the designer to come up with this pattern – a chevron, but not quite… awesome. Today I've used some Stylecraft 4-ply baby yarn ~ 100 gms ; with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook. However this yarn is not specific for this pattern. You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this pattern. Thank you for joining me as we explore this creation together.
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Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.
Materials used : Stylecraft 4-ply baby yarn ~ 100 gms ; with a 4 mm (US 6, G) crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns as well as Vardhaman acrylic yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Size : 1 year old – Chest : 20” x Length : 19.5”
Gauge : 2 rows (high) x 5 dc (across) = 1”
You can make this to any size and gauge does not matter.
I have given size so that you can estimate yarn requirement
Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
How to hold your yarn in crochet : https://youtu.be/FwOlCbGdbqY
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Whipstitch to join : at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
dc : Double Crochet yo : Yarn Over
hk : Hook sk : Skip
sl-st : Slip stitch sc : Single Crochet
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
Instructions : (Using
U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
I found this pattern floating on the internet – and as it only has a chart, I am transcribing (so to say) the chart and writing out my pattern for those who need that little bit more of an explanation.
This is not my pattern, and I take no credit for it. (Original pattern : www.korolevstvo-masterov.ru) . The charts attached here are those I found on the original pattern sheets, of the designer (I think).
You can make this dress to suit any size, using any yarn / hook
you want.
Just ensure that you get the stitch count right, and you've got
a beautiful baby dress.
For this creation, we will start from the yoke, and work up to the
shoulders.
We will then go back to that first yoke row and work down for
the skirt portion.
PART 1 : THE YOKE
Note : I’ve made this dress for a 9 -12 month old Size 20 chest, and started with 56 fsc.
So what you need to find is the chart that is for your child's age and work the yoke according to the chart given. Everything else magically falls into place
So say you are looking at 0-6 messes (months), your start will be 54 cadenas (stitches). You will place markers for the corners at 8th st ; 11th st ; 16th st; 11th st.
This chart is designed so that you will have an opening at the back (so 8 + 8 for back and 16 for front) The 11 each side will be the shoulder / armhole opening. Easy enough, right?
I am writing specific instructions according to the size I have made according to the yoke chart I followed below. The instructions for you are the same, just the number of stitches between corners will differ
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Round 1 : Start with 58 fsc. Turn.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
 |
Pattern with a start of 56 sts (ch used here, fsc used by me) |
Round 2 : dc
in the 1st fsc ;
dc in the next 7 fsc ; 2 dc in next fsc
;
(ch 2, 2 dc in same fsc
;
dc in next 11 fsc ; 2 dc in next fsc) ;
dc in next 11 fsc ; 2 dc in next fsc) ;
dc in the next 17 fsc ;
rep from (to) once ;
dc till the end. Turn.
If you've placed markers, remove all markers.
Note : The
(2 dc ; ch 2, 2
dc) marks the corner and we will work this (to) every time in the ch-2 sp for each corner
If you are using any other count start,
ensure that you get the (to) in each corner. Remember that each corner
has this pattern going along, no matter what your stitch count for the
stitches in between corners.
Round 3 : dc
in the 1st 2 dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in
next dc) ;
rep from (to) twice ;
*ch 1, dc in ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ;
ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ;
rep from (to) 7 times ;
ch 1, dc in next dc* ;
rep from *to* twice ;
ch
1, dc in ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc
;
rep from (to) 3 times ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Round 4 : dc
in the 1st 2 dc ;
(dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) ;
rep
from (to) 3 times ;
*2 dc in next ch-1 sp ;
ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ;
ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp ; dc in next dc ;
rep from (to) 10 times* ;
rep from *to* twice ;
2 dc in ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp ;
ch 2, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp ;
dc in next dc ;
rep from (to) 4 times ;
dc in last dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4, ending
with Row 4 , till you have a yoke of length ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of
9.5-10”.
After completion of yoke and
before starting on the skirt portion, I did 2 rows of sc for placket along the
back edge, ensuring I made the ‘eye-holes’ for my buttons on one side, and
then joined the placket at the bottom edge, so it is now easier to
calculate stitches for start of skirt portion.
 |
Detail of corner
|
PART 2 : THE SKIRT
I prefer to start my
dress projects from the centre back as you can work in a neat placket thereafter. For younger children, I prefer to make a larger opening - all the way to waist if needed.
Do remember that the
first row we need to close up the armhole opening - so when you reach the
corner ch-2 sps, you will do one half of the corner st in one ch-2 sp, and the
other half in the other ch-2 sp (i.e assuming you are in the back portion ch-2
sp, and we’re working on a 2dc pair st, you will have one half of the pair in
the back portion, and the next dc in the front half)
The stitch count for our skirt is in
multiples of 8.
So on completion of your yoke, please see that you have multiples of 8 to start. We will work in rounds for the skirt portion of the dress.
Our "V"-st is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
Round 1 : “V”-
st in the 1st st ;
ch 1, sk next 3 sts, (1 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) in
the next st ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the
next st ;
ch 1, sk next 3 sts, (1 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) in the next st* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 2 : sl-st
into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ;
ch
1, (3 dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the
next “V” st ;
ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep
from *to* till end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 3 : sl-st
into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st ;
ch
1, (1 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the
next “V” st ;
ch 1, (1 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 4 : Rep Round 2
Round 5 : sl-st
into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st
;
ch 1, (1 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc)
in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the
next “V” st ;
ch 1, (1 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 6 : sl-st
into the 1st “V” st, “V”- st in the 1st st
;
ch 1, (4 dc ; ch 2, dc)
in the next ch-2 sp ;
*ch 1, “V”- st in the
next “V” st ;
ch 1, (4 dc ; ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep from *to* till
end.
Join with sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 7 : Rep
Round 5
Round 8 : Rep
Round 6
I am sure you’ve got the
pattern now.. every four lines, you’re adding one dc to the group, and every
alternate round you’re moving your group of stitches from one side to the
other.
Basically we will rep
Rounds 5 & 6 – note that the increases have been
indicated by the designer with a darker dc as are the increases in the chains
(the first ch increase coming in Round 9).
And here’s the full
chart .
So you’re all set to
continue now.
Work till you have the length of dress needed.
Right at the bottom there is a border, so check the pattern and if you are
going to work that border in, then work 2 rows less (as that's our
border) than full length needed.
There is a border at the very end ..Now
the designer has reached a “dc-set” of 9 dc’s so in her border, she’s ensured
she has 9 dc’s but they’re in a different ‘set’ – she’s used a [(dc
2-tog) twice, dc, (dc 2-tog) twice] combination.
 |
Chart for the border |
 |
Finished photo of the designer's project
|
And can you believe it.. you’re done ! Great job !
So as usual, fasten off, weave in
ends.. add a set of buttons around the back and beautify with a lovely satin
ribbon !
Wow ! This one was a quick project and I’ve really enjoyed making it –
hopefully so have you.
So ciao, and see you
soon.. in the next blog. Have a good day too
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and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Here are some of my tops
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
Here is a list of my earlier miscellaneous home use projects. Enjoy
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