Sweet Nothings Crochet: COQUILLE BOLERO

COQUILLE BOLERO - free crochet pattern from Sweet Nothings Crochet

This oh, so delicate shelled bolero uses two patterns – one is the lovely shell stitch and the other is a basic simple pattern. It is the not-so-easy combination of these two patterns that makes this such a gorgeous top. Throw in some multi colored yarn and you end up with an awesome creation.

Coquille is the French word for Shell, and it seemed apt for this delicate project.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used ~ 400 gms of the gorgeous Indian Hobby India All Seasons acrylic yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; fabric glue to seal ends ; Mod Podge to stiffen motif
Note : Mod Podge will not work / stiffen acrylic

I made a size : 36 (XXL) and the yarn quantity given is just for an approximation.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e ; Red rose metallic or unbranded knitting cotton as well as Oswal or Vardhaman acrylic yarns

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

Size made : 36” (L/XL)

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced Skill level.

The stitches are basic but there are calculations that confusing and not-as-easy.

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Abbreviations used :

lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet

dc : Double crochet sp : Space

sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain

st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook

yo : Yarn Over

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Before we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here today.

As always I request you to please go through all my detailed notes before you pick up your hook. There are ideas and photos galore…. Enjoy!

This is a bottom up creation for the yoke and then a bottom down for the shell pattern.

For this pattern we will start at the yoke of the top and work our way to the shoulders. We then return to this start row and work the lower shelled portion for the body of the project.

We will work one back and two fronts for this bolero.

In case you want to make this into a top, please make two same pieces for front and back. Then work in the sleeves.

Now for sleeves, you do not need to make it a 3/4^th or full length sleeve. You can decide to make just a small capped sleeve, or leave it sleeveless.

Finish that edge (picot advised) and you have a lovely top.

You can make this into a crop top as well. All you do is work the pattern to the length needed and you are done. Work just the yoke and then a smaller length for the shell pattern, then join at the shoulders .. decide on sleeves or not and you have an awesome crop top that will make you the envy of all your friends.

Come along.. so many ideas .. lets’ start.

First calculations :

1. Keep your round bust / round chest / round waist measurements. Use the largest measure.

2. You need to decide the length for your top.

3. You also need a round arm measurement for the sleeves.

4. You need to decide how large a neck opening you want.

5. You can make this to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.

Now that you are armed with these basics, here’s what you need to keep in mind before you start.

The stitch count for our pattern is in multiples of 5 + 1 for yoke and in multiples of 16 + 1 for the shelled body pattern

So how do you work this combination?

I worked the yoke first ensuring that the end calculation is in multiples of 15.

15 works for both yoke and body but when you finish the yoke, you need to add stitches to get it to multiples of 16 + 1.

Easy way to calculate – need to go back to our school math, and calculate the common number in multiples that will work for both 5 and 15 (so say like 60.. which is 5 x 12 and 15 x 4). Got it?

This is what makes this an advanced skill project

Back (Make one)

You will work stitches for half the round body measure. (half waist or half bust.. whatever measure is largest .. remember #1 from notes above)

For the two fronts you will use half the back measure = 1/4^th your round body measure

I am going to give instructions for the basic pattern for yoke. I am working two rectangles for the front and one for the back, without shaping for armhole.

In case you wish to shape, please follow chart below.

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Start : with fsc in multiples of 5 + 1 for half your round bust/ waist measurement.

Turn.

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc ;

ch 2, sk next fsc, sc in the next fsc ;

*ch 2, sk next fsc, dc in the same fsc (from where you worked the ch 2) ;

ch 2, sk next fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn

Now before we work the next row, let’s see what we are doing.

We are creating a mock Solomon stitch – so we will work the same pattern

(as Row 1) using the tops of the first set of sts ..

so the ch 2 + dc is worked on the earlier ch 2 + dc and that gives that Solomon-like stitch. Easy enough, right?

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st sc ; ch 2, sc in the next st ;

*ch 2, dc in the same st (from where you worked the ch 2) ;

ch 2, sc in the next st* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn

and that’s it.. our yoke pattern done. Repeat Row 2 till you reach the neckline level.

At the end of every two rows, you will have a diamond stitch – or faux Solomon-like stitch. Beautiful huh?

Here’s another tweak.. in case you want a lighter / more delicate end result, try this tweak.

Work ch 3 + trc instead of ch 2 + dc.

Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs

As we are working tweaks, here’s another one – instead of reducing and shaping neckline, work a full rectangle till the top for both front and back. If this is a top you are working on, then you will get a nice scalloped boat like neckline. In case you are making a bolero / jacket, then the top bit will just flop down like a collar and look trendy.

I am not writing instructions for the neckline shaping as it is pretty confusing and if you are an advanced crocheter, chances are you can read charts – so go ahead and shape away

Once you are done with the two front and one back portions, join at the shoulders and sides, leaving an armhole opening.

For the lower shelled portion, you can work in two ways.

1) You can leave the two fronts and one back and continue working 2 front and one back in shell pattern. If you decide on this, then do not join sides after completion of yoke

2) You can join front and back at shoulder and sides, and then work one continuous shell pattern for the body. You will still work side to side, but from one front centre, around the back to the other front centre.

3) Either way you need to leave an armhole opening. You can work the sleeve in after you have joined the sides.

Shelled pattern

The lower body of our top has this lovely shelled pattern. So we will head back to that first fsc row and use the other part of the fsc for the first row of shells.

In our shell st, we will use a dc 2-tog. Please check the top of this blog for a ‘how to’ if you need it.

Row 1 : dc in the 1^st fsc ; ch 1, sc in the next fsc ;

*ch 5, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;

ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, dc 2-tog in the next fsc ;

(ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same fsc) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;

ch 5, sk next 3 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;

ch 5, sk next fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;

rep *to* till 2^nd last fsc ;

ch 1, dc in the last fsc. Turn.

In the following row, we will use a decorative picot st.

We will use a ch-3 picot which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3^rd ch from hk).

We will work a dc and then a picot on top of it.

How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).

Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s

Row 2 : sc in the 1^st dc ;

ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*(ch 1, dc + picot on the next st ;

ch 1, dc + picot in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, dc + picot on the next st ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-5 sp, ending with a (to) ;

ch 5, sk the last ch-sp and sc in the last dc. Turn.

Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;

{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.

This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.

Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w

Row 3 : dc in 1^st dc ; ch 1,

dc 2-tog in the same 1^st dc ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*ch 5, sk next 2 picot sts, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 5, sk next picot st, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 5, sk next 2 picot sts, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the next sc ;

(ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same sc) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the last ch-5 sp ;

ch 1, dc 2-tog in the last dc ;

ch 1, dc in the same last dc. Turn.

Put your work down and see what we’ve done.

Subtly, we have moved our shells one step to the right. The shells are those three dc 2-tog sets.. see them?

So you now have the pattern down.. but I’m still gonna hold your hand for a bit longer with instructions …

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st dc ; ch 1, dc + picot in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc + picot in the next st ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*[ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp] ;

rep [to] once ;

(ch 1, dc + picot on the next st ;

ch 1, dc + picot in the next ch-1 sp) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, dc + picot on the next st ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp * ;

rep *to* till the last ch-5 sp ;

ch 1, dc + picot in the next st ;

ch 1, dc + picot in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 1, dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in 1^st dc ; ch 1, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 5, sk next 2 picot sts, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

*ch 1, dc 2-tog in the next sc ;

(ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same sc) ;

rep (to) once ;

ch 1, sc in the next ch-5 sp ;

ch 5, sk next 2 picot sts, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

*ch 5, sk next picot st, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;

ch 5, sk next 2 picot sts, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

and that’s our beautiful shell pattern done. Four line repeat.

Rep Rows 2 – 5, ending with a Row 2 or Row 4

Optional ending row : On Rows 2 and 4, we work a dc + picot and that’s a nice row to end on. For a little difference, you could add a picot on that sc (in the middle of the two ch-5 sts) as well – but then, like I always say and maintain – creativity in your hands! Go create and spread smiles.

SLEEVES:

Once you have the armhole opening ready, we can start working on the sleeves.

For the sleeve, once again you have the same calculations as you have done before – but a little bit easier mainly as you have figured it out once

The stitch count for the sleeve is in multiples of 5, ensuring that you have multiples of 16 at the end.

So the top portion of the sleeve matches the same pattern as we have used for the yoke. At the end of the sleeve you will work in the shelled pattern that you have done for the body of the top.

FINISHING :

For a neat finish, run a row of sc all around the open end of the front, across the back, down the other side of the front and then finally all along the bottom edge.

In case you want buttons, you will need to figure out what size they are and leave an opening along the left hand side placket.

Work in a final row of picot if desired.

Work the finishing around the ends of the sleeve too.

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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/05/shankh-bolero-plus-scarf.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2019/04/makadee-bolero.html