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Saturday, 18 May 2019
SHANKH BOLERO plus SCARF
This
oh, so beautiful shank bolero uses two patterns – one part is for the simpler
bolero and the other for the long scarf.It is the easy combination of these two patterns that makes this such a
gorgeous creation.Throw in some multi
colored yarn and you end up with an awesome creation.
Shankh
is the Hindi word for Shell – so now you know why I named this project.
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Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Before
we head off to the project, let’s get an idea of what we’re creating here
today.
As
always I request you to please go through all my detailed notes before
you pick up your hook.There are ideas
galore…. Enjoy!
This
is a bottom up creation.For this
pattern we will start at the base of the top and work our way to the shoulders.We will work one back and two fronts for this
creation.
Here
are ideas to make this into a top.
As
we are working with the easy rectangle presentation, you will get a nice
off-the-shoulder bit that works as a smallish sleeve.Finish that edge and you have a lovely top.
You
can make this into a crop top as well.All you do is work the pattern to the length needed and you are
done.Working a smaller set of
rectangles, joining at the shoulders and not working any sleeves will give you
an awesome off the shoulder loose crop top that will make you the envy of all
your friends.
Today
however, we’re making a bolero plus scarf.
So
for the back, we will work one rectangle in Pattern 1.
We
will then work two rectangles in the Shelled pattern (Pattern 2) for the scarf
portion.
We will attach our yarn in the
centre back and then work one half each for the two front scarf bits.
These will then go across the back and fall
across the front as well.
The length of
the scarf will depend on how long you want it (or as much yarn you have).I wanted to use up all my yarn, and this is
the length I ended up with – but you could easily make it longer.
In
my case then, this is like an ‘uneven bolero’ (like the uneven tops and uneven
dresses that have the front short and back long? Here my front is long and the
back a bit shorter ;) )
1.Keep
your round bust / round chest / round waist measurements.Use the largest measure.
2.You
need to decide the length for your top.
3.You
need to decide how long you’d like your scarf.
You
can make this to any size, just ensuring that you get the stitch count right.
The recipient has worn it differently - and she has promised to send me photos or a video of how she wore it this way - she seems to have put the scarf bit around the bottom, hasn't she.. hmmm yet another drape, huh?
... but this is the way it was 'intended' by the designer
PART 1 : Back
The
stitch count for our pattern 1 is in multiples of 9 for the width you
want for your bolero.Remember #1 from
notes above.
For this back pattern, there are two charts – so two ways to make it.
I
suggest you start with fdc, but if you are still struggling with it, work a fsc
chain and then work dc all the way to the end.
If
you are struggling with fsc as well, then start with ch in multiples of 9 + 2
and work a dc in the 3rd ch from hk.Ensure that you have the stitch count at the end of your first row.
The first way (that I’ve chosen) is to work a dc 2-tog.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
“Split dc 2-tog” st :The
dc 2-tog is, however, worked over three stitches skipping 2 sts in between.So you work the first half of your dc 2-tog
over one stitch, sk the next st and work the 2nd half of the
dc 2-tog over the next st.
As we’re
splitting this stitch, let’s call this our “Split dc 2-tog” st.
In
case you find this tedious or not as neat, choose to use the other method.In this method you will work a ch-5 sp over 3
sts per the chart below.The ch-5 sp is
the same as the Split dc 2-tog and is worked every alternate row.
For
every other row we will work a dc all through and the pattern is the same
whether you use the ch-5 sp or the Split dc 2-tog.
I
am writing my instructions as per what I have done.
If you choose the ch-5
pattern, please follow the chart
above.
Double Crochet : dc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
ch 1, Split
dc 2-tog over the same 1st fdc , sk the next st and next fdc
;
*ch
3, skipping the st in the middle of the next 3 fdc, work Split dc 2-tog over
the next st, and the next st* ;
rep
*to* till end ;
ch 1, dc in the same last fdc.Turn
Row 2 :dc
in the 1st dc ;dc in the
next ch-1 sp ;
*sk
the next st ; 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep
*to* till end ;
dc in the last dc.Turn.
Check
that you have the same number of sts that you started with.
We
will now start with our Split dc 2-tog stitch.
Row 3 :Split
dc 2-tog over the 1st 3 dc , (so using the 1st dc,
skipping the 2nd dc and using the 3rd dc) ;
*(ch
3, Split dc 2-tog over the next 3 dc)* ;
rep
*to* till the end ;
ch
1, 2 dc in the last ch-1 sp ; dc in the last dc.Turn.
Row 4 :dc
in the 1st dc ;3 dc in the
next ch-3 sp ;
*sk
next st ; 3 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep
*to* till end.Turn.
Check
that you have the same number of sts that you started with.
Row 5 :dc
in the 1st dc ;
ch 1, Split
dc 2-tog over the same 1st fdc , sk the next st and next dc ;
*ch
3, Split dc 2-tog over the next 3 sts* ;
rep
*to* till end ; ch 1, dc in the same last dc.Turn
Put
your work down and admire what you have created.
We’ve completed one pattern repeat.
Rep
Rows 2 – 5 for as many times as you’d like, ending with an all-dc Row 2 or 4
till you reach the shoulders.
When
you are done, you will have one large rectangle which is the back or your
bolero.Now for the front we will work a
slightly different pattern and two smaller rectangles.
FRONT PATTERN 2 :
This is what the designer intended the front to look like
This is what the recipient has done and she says this works for her too :)
For
the front, we will work the Shell or Shankh pattern.
Once
again let’s take a look at what we need to do here.The diagram shows that there is one back and
two front rectangles.It has two colours
for the front – the green bit seems to be a repeat of the back pattern, and the
peach/pink bit seems to be the shell pattern.
So
in case that’s what you wanna do, then you will work two shelled halves for the
front rectangles that way.The green bit
is a repeat of the back pattern which you then work as an ‘edging’ all around
the shell pattern and then attach the two rectangles together to the back bit.
I
am going to work the shell pattern for the front – working one long
rectangle.So basically I’m gonna work a
shell patterned scarf and then attach that on to the back bit.
The
stitch count for the Shell pattern is in multiples of 16.
Startwith fsc for the width you’d like for your scarf in stitch count multiples.Turn
Single Crochet : Sc :yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Row 1 :
sc in the 1st fsc ;
ch 4, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;
(ch
4, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc) ;
rep
(to) till end.Turn.
Row 2 :
dc in the 1st sc ;
ch 2, sc in the 1st ch-4 sp ;
*(ch
4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; 7 dc in the next ch-4 sp ;
sc in the next ch-4 sp ;
ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) till end.Turn.
Row 3 :
dc in the 1st dc ; ch 2, sc in the 1st ch-4 sp ;
*(ch
1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
ch
1, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next dc*
rep
*to* till end.Turn.
In
the following row, we will work a dc 3-tog.
I
have chosen to work a dc 3-tog, but the pattern chart shows a trc 3-tog.
Row 4 :
sc in the 1st dc ; ch 1, dc 3-tog in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*(ch
3, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 4 times ;
ch
1, sc in the next dc ;
ch 1, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp*
rep
*to* till end.Turn.
Row 5 :
dc in the 1st sc ; ch 2, sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*(ch
5, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
7 dc in the
next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, dc
in the next sc*
rep
*to* till end.Turn.
This
row, as you may have noticed, is the same as Row 2.
So we have successfully finished one
beautiful shell pattern and one repeat.
Rep Rows 3 – 5 for as many rows as are needed for the length of your scarf.
How do you measure how long a scarf you need?
So
the scarf is divided into three lengths.There is one length that is fixed – the one that needs to behind for the
width of back bit you’ve just made ; and then there’s the front length , which
again is fixed as it should be as long as the back that you’ve made and then is
the free bit that is longer and the scarf-like bit.So this rectangle will go over the top of the
back and down the sides of the back rectangle and then hang down for as long as
you want.
Once
you complete this scarf bit, come back so we can attach it and finish it all
up.See you soon.
FINISHING :
For
a neat finish, run a row of sc all around the open end of the front, across the
back, down the other side of the front and then finally all along the bottom
edge.
In
case you want buttons, you will need to figure out what size they are and leave
an opening along the left hand side placket.
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Have
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