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Sunday, 13 November 2016

MAISIE’s BABY DRESS


crochet baby dress
crochet baby dress

MAISIE’s BABY DRESS

This is yet another really special project for a friend’s niece.  This yarn has been gifted to me and has been in my stash for quite a long time.. guess this was the place it had to go to.. and I am thrilled that I’m making this lovely creation for this new baby girl.

I take the trouble of giving LOTS of information through my blog, so may I request you to please  go through it all before you start.  Thank you.

Do check my long Pinterest list for little girl’s dresses at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/girls-dresses-to-make/, in case you'd like me to design something specially for your lil one.

Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Inspired by this photo with its attached graph / chart , here are my pattern notes.






Materials usedToday I’ve used about 120 gms of Bernat Baby Softee with a 3.5 mm crochet hook ;
Optional : Stitch marker

Yarn info for Indians : For a similar soft finish for your dress, I'd recommend Vardhaman Baby Soft with a 3.5 mm crochet hook OR Our Indian Oswal Cashmilon 3 or 4-ply with a 3.5 mm crochet hook.

The yarn I’ve used : Bernat Softee baby http://www.yarnspirations.com/yarn/softee-baby.html

Size made : Chest : 18” ; Length 15” for a 0-3 month old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level
The stitches used are regular ordinary ones – the combinations used are complicated.  
That said, the only “complication” lies in the joining of the yoke, and if you’ve made this square / rectangular yoke before, then this is totally easy-peasy for you.

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

How to do a picot stitch : A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

There is a super pin that I found for sizing of neck / yokes for young kids at https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/



Abbreviations used :

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                               sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                        hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                      sc : Single crochet


Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.

We start with the yoke, which is worked like a square / rectangle.  Two parts of this square / rectangle will be the armhole sections, and the other two parts will make the front and back of the yoke.

As usual, here are your choices. You need to decide if you are using a button placket around the back, and if you are, you need to figure out how long that placket is going to be. If you are working it for the full length of the yoke, then you will work back and forth for the yoke.

If however, you want only a single button around the back, then you will work back and forth for the first few rows, join up and then work in rounds.

Now there is a link for a set of charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference to start on our yoke.

Once we complete the yoke, we will then work the skirt portion of the dress off two sides of this yoke, and the other two sides will be the armhole.

Now for the yoke, depending on what size chest you’re working with, please follow the really easy link for chest sizes (square yoke) given above.  You will then calculate the pattern repeats given for the skirt, and work accordingly.

Part I : Yoke



Now for the yoke, depending on what size chest you’re working with, please follow the really easy link for chest sizes (square yoke) given above.  You will then calculate the pattern repeats given for the skirt, and work accordingly.

Start :  with fsc as per the chart given above for square / rectangular yokes.  The chart also gives the number of stitches per side. Please place markers to mark the four corners of your yoke.

We’re going to work in rows from the centre back so that there is an opening for the button placket.



Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc and each fsc till the 1st corner marker ; 
(3 dc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next corner fsc) ; 
*dc in the next fsc and each fsc till the next corner marker ; 
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* 2 times ; dc in each fsc till the end.  Turn.

From this row on, we really do not need our corner markers , as the ch-1 sps are our corners.

Now let’s understand where our armholes are coming in. We started at the centre back, and then came to our 1st corner.  The section between that 1st and 2nd corner will form the first armhole section.  The next armhole section is between the 3rd and last corner.
So obviously, the section between our 2nd and 3rd markers is the front chest of the dress.  Got it?

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the last dc
before the next corner ch-1 sp ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
*sk next 3 dc, (3 dc in the corner ch-1 sp ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-1 sp) ;
sk next 3 dc, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in each dc till the last dc before the next corner ch-1 sp ; 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.

Now remember that we’re probably working on different baby girl dress sizes here. The button hole that you want at the back will differ, so ensure that you work back and forth in rows till you are satisfied with the opening you have, and then you will just join up at the last st and work in rounds.
You could work back and forth in rows all through the yoke and join only at the last row too, giving you a nice long button placket as well, but you’re well aware of that too.
When you decide you’ve had a long enough button hole opening, please join with a sl-st and you will now work in rounds here on.

crochet baby dres


Rep Row 2 till your yoke is of the length you require.

So how do you know when your yoke is the length required?

1.       Fold your yoke in half at the neckline, such that you have both halves of your yoke together.  You now have a shoulder strap and then the yoke falling neatly down, such that you can measure it.
2.     Measure the yoke down from the shoulder blades (straps) to the bottom of the yoke.  This is the length of your yoke
3.     The above measurement is also the round armhole measurement
4.     I would suggest that you check round armhole measurement as the measure you need, ensuring that you are also getting the round chest measure at the same time.
5.     Your Round Chest or Across Front measure is the measurement from the right hand side to the left hand side of your work.  You will double (or multiply by 2) this Across Front measure to check if you have the round chest measurement for the child you’re making this dress for
6.     As I always say, the best way to ensure you’re doing this just right (especially if you’re doing it for the first time), is to keep a well fitting garment of the child you are making this dress for as a template to work off.

Now once you’re done with your yoke, I’d suggest we work in rounds, if you have not already started working in rounds before this.  So on the last round, we will need to create our armhole, so let’s get that last round written down, shall we? 

Last Yoke Round : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the 1st ch-sp ; sk all sts between the 1st and 2nd ch-sp(which now forms the 1st armhole) ;
and dc in the next dc (which will be your front yoke) ;
dc in each dc all the way to your 3rd ch-sp (which is the end of your front yoke) ; sk all sts between the 3rd and 4th ch-sp (which will be the next armhole) ;
dc in each dc till end.



Now before you head off.. count your stitches as we need multiples of 10 for the skirt portion.  Please also read on before you work any further.

We will now work in rounds here on.

If you are deciding to change colours, please re-attach new coloured yarn.
Though it does not matter where you start your new colour from, I always find that it is neatest if you join it at the centre back.

PLEASE read through till * below BEFORE you attach your yarn, whether you’re changing your yarn color or not.

Our pattern repeat for the skirt section is 12, so ensure you have it in these multiples, or tweak it such that you get multiples of 12 J

* Now here’s where this gets a little tricky, and this is mainly because we have this pretty big number as a stitch count / pattern repeat.

So here’s what I suggest before you join your yarn.
1.       Count your stitches from one side to the other and ensure that you have multiples of 12. 
2.     For the skirt portion, you remember our chat a little earlier, about how we’re going to section off our armholes.  So check that little note (above) again, and mark off your armholes. 
3.     If you are running short of just a few sts for the skirt, then you could always add them as a small chain or extra dc’s under the armhole i.e in that ch-sp just before you join your armholes. So this means that in your last row, calculate how many stitches you are running short of, and add them as a chain under the armhole, between the two ch-sps that are the armholes.

Right, you have your work cut out for you.
Re-attach your yarn as suggested, and let’s carry on.

Skirt instructions :

crochet baby dress



For our skirt portion we have two sets of “V”-sts. 
Our small “V”-st is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or sp.
Our large “V”-st is (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same st or sp.

Round 1 : Large “V”-st in the 1st dc ;
*(ch 3, sk next 5 dc, Small “V”-st in the next dc ;
ch 3, sk next 5 dc, Large“V”-st in the next dc )* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 2 : Large “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; Small “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; Large“V”-st in the next “V”-st )* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 3 : Large “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc and ch-3 sp, dc in the next dc (of the Small “V”-st) ; 4 dc in the ch-1 sp (of the Small “V”-st) ; dc in the next dc (of the Small “V”-st) ; ch 3, sk next sc and ch-3 sp, Large“V”-st in the next “V”-st )* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

In the following round, we will use a decorative picot stitch.  Our picot stitch is a ch-3 picot, which is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk).
We will also use a dc 2-tog. So check the top of this blog for a “How to” if needed.

Round 4 : Large “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*(ch 2, sk next dc , dc 2-tog in the next dc ; (ch 1 + picot + ch 1, dc 2-tog in the next dc) ; ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next dc ; rep (to) once ; ch 2, Large “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 5 : Large “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 3, sk next two dc 2-tog and picot , Small “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 3, sk next two dc 2-tog and picot, Large “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

And just like that, we’ve completed one pattern repeat. 
Here are a few ideas. 
Please read through all of the notes before you start on the next set of repeats.

Our Rep Rounds are 2 – 5, so you could rep Rounds 2 – 5 till you have the skirt length needed for your cute little dress.

OR  you could make a small difference or addition from Rounds 3, 4 & 5, where we add a dc 2-tog in each set.  So let’s take a look at that too… and you can then work whichever pattern suits you.
For convenience, I’m going to just number our rows with an A.

One quick note : Our increases in the dc 2-tog will be made in the ch-sp of the Small “V”-st. Now in case you are unable to add a 3rd dc 2-tog in that ch-1 sp, then I suggest you make it a ch-2 sp.  In this case then, the Small “V”-st will be (dc ; ch 2, dc), all in the same st or ch-sp.

Note that as usual, to add to the "frilliness" of a dress, you could increase the space between stitches ; and similarly to decrease the "laciness" and/or make it look a little more compact, you could decrease space between stitches.
Play around with this and make something unique and beautiful.

Right then.. let’s carry on with our pattern.

Round 3 A : Large “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*(ch 3, sk next sc and ch-3 sp, 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp (of the Small “V”-st) ;
[ch 3, 2 dc in the same ch-2 sp] ; rep [to] once ; ch 3, sk next sc and ch-3 sp, Large“V”-st in the next “V”-st )* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 4 A : Large “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*(ch 2, sk next 2 dc , dc 2-tog in the next ch-3 sp ; (ch 1 + picot + ch 1, dc 2-tog in the same ch-3 sp) ; rep (to) once ; ch 2, dc 2-tog in the next ch-3 sp ; rep (to) 2 times ; ch 2, Large “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st. 

Round 5 A : Large “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 4, sk next three dc 2-tog and picot , Small “V”-st in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 3, sk next three dc 2-tog and picot, Large “V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

You now have two sets of ideas – so you will either rep Rounds 2 – 5 OR rep Rounds 2, 3A, 4A & 5A once more, before we work the small border.

So let’s go our separate ways till we reach the length needed.

Border Round 1 : sl-st into the 1st Large “V”-st , sc in the same in the 1st “V”-st ;
*(ch 5, sc in the next picot) ; rep (to) 4 times ; ch 5, sc in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Border Round 2 : sc + picot in the in the 1st sc ;
(ch 3, sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your young lady.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ?? J

I should also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric.  I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top.  The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon. J


I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J