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Tuesday, 19 July 2016

OFF THE SHOULDERS TOP


free crochet top patternfree crochet top pattern

OFF THE SHOULDERS TOP

Oh my gosh.. this is such a lovely top – just love the simple top and then the heavy ostentatious frilly top bit that just gives this vest that “Ooooh” oomph J

I really need to start getting some nice whacky names for my tops, don’t you think?  

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.



Materials used : Today I’ve used about 175 gms of our Indian Red Rose knitting cotton yarn,  with a 3 mm crochet hook 

Skill level :  Intermediate to Advanced.
The stitches used are all basic, but the calculations and ideas given will require intermediate to advanced crochet skills

Gauge :  Gauge is not important.  You can make this top for any size.

Abbreviations used :
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                   dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                      ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                      rep : Repeat


Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  We will start from the base of the top and then work up to the shoulders.  We will then work on that lovely frilled top bit.  
Now the beauty of this top bit is that it is a lot looser / wider than the shoulders.  So you can have it falling off the shoulders, or you can have it pertly over your shoulders and frilled – for an evening or a day top, as you see fit

We will do the same pattern for the front and back of top, and then join the sides and shoulders. 

This pattern can be made for any size. Please  just check the stitch count repeat given, and follow instructions to make it to your preferred size.

Now as I look at the chart, I see that we’re starting from the base of the top, but here’s my two-bit advice.  IF your bust size and hip size are equal or about the same, then it doesn’t matter from which end you start (i.e work upwards from waist or down from neck), but  if there is a big difference in sizes, and your bust is a lot smaller, then I’d suggest you work from the larger size to smaller size, as the pattern looks easy enough to take off and decrease a few stitches from the end(s).  The finished product may look upside down if you work the other way, but then that’s what creativity is all about.

We will also be making the same pattern for the front and back – so follow these instructions below and make two sets.  We will then join sides and then work in the top frilly bit.
Please read through all instructions before you start, as I have given lots and lots of ideas and choices.  Cheers ;)

Ok so enough talking.. hooks in hand.. and let’s go..

Front / Back :  Make two






Start : with fsc in multiples of 9 + 1.  
You will make a start chain length half the round waist.



Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ; 
*ch 3, sk next 3 fsc , sc in the next fsc* ; rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : 4 dc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 4 dc in the last sc . Turn.

Note : Check that this ‘band’ that you’ve just made is the right size needed (i.e half the round waist for the person intended).  The pattern *may* reduce the length a bit, so in case you feel this is not right, please stop now and increase one pattern repeat from start row.

Row 3 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc and sc, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; 
*ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sc in the next 3 dc  and sc, sc in the next ch-4 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end ; ch 3,  sk next 3 dc , sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 4 : 4 dc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 4 dc in the last sc. Turn.

Rep Rows 3 – 4 till your work reaches the armhole level, ending with a Row 3

Armhole decrease
Sl-st all the way from the first 4 dc to the next (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) set.  
In the ch-2 sp of that 1st (to) set, we will work a 4 dc.  
We will work all the way to the end of the row in pattern, and work a 4 dc in the last (to) set once again.  Easy enough?

Decrease Row 1 : sl-st past the 1st two ch-3 sps, 4 dc in the 1st sc ; 
sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till the 3rd last ch-3 sp from end ; 4 dc in that ch-3 sp. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc and sc, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; 
*ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sc in the next 3 dc  and sc, sc in the next ch-4 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end ; ch 3,  sk next 3 dc , sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 3 : 4 dc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end ; 4 dc in the last sc. Turn.


Row 4 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc and sc, sc in the next ch-4 sp ; 
*ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sc in the next dc ; 
ch 3, sc in the next 3 dc  and sc, sc in the next ch-4 sp* ; 
rep *to* till end ; ch 3,  sk next 3 dc , sc in the last dc. Turn.

Rep Rows 3 & 4 till you reach the depth needed for your top. 

This top has a straight neckline and we will then add this really thin strap and then a really lovely large elaborate frill.


STRAP 1 :
I have two ideas for the strap - so here are some choices and decisions for you.. which one suits you best ?? :)

Let's make the first of the two straps.  
We start with a fsc chain and work the same pattern on both sides of this fsc chain.


Start with a fsc chain in multiples of 3, that will go from the top of the vest made to the top and over the shoulder to the other side of the vest top.  Turn

Row 1  : (ch 2 + 2 dc) all in the 1st fsc ; sk next fsc, sc in the next fsc ; 
*rep (to) in the next fsc ; sk next fsc, sc in the next fsc* ; 
rep *to* till the last fsc. (Read note first)

Note : The strap we’ve just created is cute, and you could stop right here OR you could swing around the edge and work 3 sc in the turning fsc, and then work the same Row 1 pattern down the fsc chain from the other side too.

So depending on your decision, you will have a one sided shelled strap or a two sided on.

You will affix this strap to the top of your vest.


STRAP 2 :

For the second strap, I have decided just to work a foundation (fsc) chain for the length needed from the front of the top to the back.  I then worked a sl-st in each fsc back to the front.

So to start, I attached the yarn to one point on the top, worked it all the way to the point at the back of the top, so by the time I had the length of fsc chain done, I also had it attached to the top.  Ensure you attach it firmly, and then work the sl-st all the way back to the starting stitch.  Fasten off and weave in ends.  If you decide you want a slightly thicker strip here, then you could work a fdc chain, and work either dc or sc in each stitch back.  Of course, the lovely shelled pattern given in Strap 1 instructions is your other option.  

FRILL :


For our frill, we will work in rounds.  We will start with a fsc chain, join it and then work in rounds.
So what’s the difficulty here? Well, sizing.  You will need to work this in such a way that it goes just over the shoulders for the person intended.  We will then add a tie-cord as well, just in case you want it tighter around the neck.

Now the pattern starts off with a fsc but if you would like the frill to flop over the shoulders a little longer, then I'd suggest that you  work the first start row, and then work a few rows of sc or hdc in each st all around for a few rows.  

So how many rows is a 'few rows'?
Let's calculate :   The actual frill is about 9 rounds.  So calculate how many inches you get in 9 rows of your work (This is called calculating gauge).  With this number in hand, you know how much your frilly neckline is - and if you want it longer, you just add that many rows of sc or hdc right at the top.  Adding too many plain rows of sc or hdc may not look that good, so you could probably work in a few 'holes' (read : lacy pattern ;) ) by working in a ch-sp every other stitch - which means that you could work a sc /hdc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next st, sc/hdc in the next st all the way around.
In the following round, you will work a sc/hdc in each st and ch-sp all around.  This will make this 'extension' look like a pattern too.  Got it?

OK then.. onto the actual frill pattern.


Start with fsc in multiples of 16.
Keeping this fsc chain flat, join with a sl-st to the 1st fsc.
We will now work in rounds.

Our “V”-st is (dc ; ch 3, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Working a hdc instead of an sc in the following row adds to the length of your frill.

Round 1  : “V”-st in the 1st st ; 
*[ch 5 , sk next 4 fsc, sc in the next 7 fsc] ; (ch 5, sk next 4 fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc)* ; 
rep *to* till our first “V”-st ; ch 5, sk last 4 fsc and join with a sl-st to that “V”-st.  

In the following round we will work 11 dc in the “V”-st.  Now what I’ve done is work 1 dc on that 1st dc of the “V”-st, work 9 dc in the ch-3 sp, and then the 11th dc on that 2nd dc of the “V”-st.  That said, you could opt to work all 11 dc in the ch-3 sp.

You can use either a dc or a trc in the following row.  It will not change the pattern at all.  The trc just adds to the length of the stitch.  Choices & decisions for you ...  ;)

Round 2  : 11 dc in the 1st “V”-st ; 
*[ch 5 , sk next sc, sc in the next 5 sc] ; ch 5, sk next sc,  11 dc in the next “V”-st* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 5 , sk next sc, sc in the next 5 sc ; ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the first “V”-st.

Round 3  : sc in the 1st 11 dc ; 
*[ch 5 , sk next sc, sc in the next sc] ; ch 5, sk next sc,  sc in the next 11 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 5 , sk next sc, sc in the next sc ; ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the first st.

Round 4  : sc in the 1st 11 sc ; 
*[ch 5 , sk next sc, sc in the next 3 sc] ; ch 5, sk next sc,  sc in the next 11 sc* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 5 , sk next sc, sc in the next 3 sc ; ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the first st.

Round 5  : sc in the 1st 11 sc ; 
*[ch 5 , sk next sc, “V”-st in the next sc] ; ch 5, sk next sc, sc in the next 11 sc* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 5 , “V”-st in the next sc ; ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the first st.

Round 6  : sl-st in the 1st 2 sc ; 
*sc in the next 7 sc ; ch 4, dc in the next ch-3 sp,  [ch 2 , dc in the same ch-3 sp] ; 
rep [to] 3 times ; 
ch 4, sk next 2 sc,  sc in the next 7 sc* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the first st.  

In the following round we'll use a trc or Triple / treble crochet stitch.  You can opt to use the dc as well - it does not affect the pattern - just makes for a shorter stitch ;)

Round 7  : sl-st in the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ; 
*(ch 4, sk next 2 sc, trc in the next dc) ; 4 trc in each of the next ch-2 sps ;  dc in the next dc ;
[ch 3 , sk next 2 sc , sc in the next 3 sc]* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the first st.

Round 8  :  sl-st till the 1st trc , dc in the same  trc ; ch 3, sk next 3 trc, dc in the next trc
*(ch 3, sk next 2 trc, dc in the next trc) ;  rep (to) 2 times ; 
[ch 3, sk next 3 trc, dc in the next trc] ;  
ch 3, sk next  3 sc, dc in the next trc*  ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the first st.

In the following round we’ll work a dc 2-tog, but we will be working it over two dc, skipping 3 chain stitches in the middle.
dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

Round 9  : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc , skipping the 3 ch in between ; 
*(ch 3, dc 2-tog over the same last dc and the next   dc , skipping the 3 ch in between) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ; [ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp]* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the first st.

Note :   Just for kicks (and a creative difference), I've decided to work a dc 5-tog in each ch-3 sp 5 times instead of the Special dc 2-tog, and then work the [to] as instructed.  
As you can see, the difference is minor, but I love it.  So go ahead and see what you'd like to do.. throw in a picot as well if you'd like.. all in the name of creativity and difference :) !

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing :
First attach the straps on to the top of the vest, and then attach your sides.

Then comes the slightly tricky part of attaching this round frill to the top of the vest.

What I’ve done is find the centres (back & front) as well as two sides of the frill, and then pinned it to the centres and sides of your top.  
I then pinned  the frill down from the centre(s) to the sides along the top edge of the vest, till the armhole.  
There will be a free portion that will overlap over the sides, which gives you that off the shoulder effect.


free crochet top pattern

Fasten off and weave in ends.  Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

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