Oh my gosh.. this is such a lovely Off the Shoulder top – I just
love the simple top and then the heavy ostentatious frilly top bit that just
gives this vest that “Ooooh” oomph
I really need to start getting some nice whacky
names for my tops, don’t you think?
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Materials used : Today I’ve used about 175 gms of our Indian Red rose knitting
cotton yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook
For Indians : You can also use Anchor knitting cotton
For Non-Indians : I have used a regular knitting cotton that technically uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook (recommended). I use a larger hook as I like the extra stretch it affords the end product. Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill level : Intermediate to Advanced
The stitches used are all basic, but the calculations and ideas given will require intermediate to advanced crochet skills
Gauge : Gauge is not important. You can make this top for any size.
The stitches used are all basic, but the calculations and ideas given will require intermediate to advanced crochet skills
Gauge : Gauge is not important. You can make this top for any size.
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over rep : repeat
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
trc : Triple / Treble crochet
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/
As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.
Pattern inspiration here
Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern. This is a slightly complicated pattern and I’ve got loads of notes – bear with me.. they’re all useful!
Quick analysis of what we’re going
to do here today.
We will start
from the base of the top and then work up to the shoulders.
We will then work on that lovely frilled top
bit.
Now the beauty of this top bit is
that it is a lot looser / wider than the shoulders.
So you can have it falling off the shoulders,
or you can have it pertly over your shoulders and frilled – for an evening or a
day top, as you see fit
We will do the same pattern for
the front and back of top, and then join the sides and shoulders.
This pattern can be made for any size. Please check the stitch count given, and follow instructions to make it to your preferred size.
The stitch count for today's top is in multiples of 9 + 1.
Now as I look at the chart, I
see that we’re starting from the base of the top, but here’s my two-bit
advice.
IF your bust size and hip size
are equal or about the same, then it doesn’t matter from which end you start (i.e
work upwards from waist or down from neck), but if there is a big difference in sizes, and
your bust is a lot smaller, then I’d suggest you work from the larger size to smaller size, as the pattern looks easy enough to take off and
decrease a few stitches from the end(s).
The finished product may look upside down if you work the other way, but then that’s what
creativity is all about.
We will also be making the same
pattern for the front and back – so follow these instructions below and make
two sets.
We will then join sides and
then work in the top frilly bit.
Please read through all instructions before you start, as I have given lots and lots of ideas and choices. Cheers 😄
Please read through all instructions before you start, as I have given lots and lots of ideas and choices. Cheers 😄
Ok so enough talking.. hooks in
hand.. and let’s go..
Front / Back : Make two
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start : with fsc in multiples of 9 + 1.
You will make a start chain length half the
round waist.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 fsc , sc
in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till end.
Turn.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Row 2 : 4 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch
4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc) in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in
the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ;
4 dc in
the last sc . Turn.
Note : Check that this ‘band’ that you’ve just made is the right
size needed (i.e half the round waist for the person intended). The pattern *may* reduce the width a bit, so
in case you feel this is not right, please stop now and increase stitches (keeping stitch count in mind of course) from start row.
Row 3 : sc in the 1st dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc and sc, sc
in the next ch-4 sp ;
*ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in the next dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next
dc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc and sc, sc
in the next ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc , sc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 4 : 4 dc in the 1st sc ;
sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch
4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc)
in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ;
4 dc in the last sc. Turn.
Rep Rows 3 – 4 till your work
reaches the armhole level, ending with a Row 3
Armhole decrease
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Sl-st all the way from the
first 4 dc to the next (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) set.
In the ch-2 sp of that 1st (to) set, we will work a 4
dc.
We will work all the way to the end
of the row in pattern, and work a 4 dc in the last (to) set once again.
Easy enough?
Decrease Row 1 : sl-st past the 1st two ch-3 sps, 4 dc in the 1st
sc ;
sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4
dc) in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3
sp* ;
rep *to* till the 3rd last ch-3 sp from end ;
4 dc in that
ch-3 sp. Turn.
Row 2 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc and sc, sc
in the next ch-4 sp ;
*ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sc in the next
dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next 3 dc and sc,
sc in the next ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc , sc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 3 : 4 dc in the 1st sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch
4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 4, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
*(4 dc ; ch 2, 4 dc)
in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 4 , sc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ;
4 dc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 4 : sc in the 1st dc ; ch 3, sk next 3 dc and sc, sc
in the next ch-4 sp ;
*ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 3, sc in the next
dc ;
ch 3, sc in the next 3 dc and sc,
sc in the next ch-4 sp* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 3, sk next 3 dc , sc in the last dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 3 & 4 till you
reach the depth needed for your top.
This top has a straight
neckline and we will then add this really thin strap and then a really lovely
large elaborate frill.
When you have completed both sides of your top, use one of the joining methods given below to join the sides.
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
STRAP 1 :
I have two ideas for the strap - so here are some choices and decisions for you.. which one suits you best ?? :)
Let's make the first of the two straps.
We start with a fsc chain and work the same pattern on both sides of this fsc chain.
Start with a fsc chain in multiples of 3, that will go from the
top of the vest made to the top and over the shoulder to the other side of the
vest top. Turn
Row 1 : (ch 2 + 2 dc) all in the 1st
fsc ;
sk next fsc, sc in the next fsc ;
*rep (to) in the next fsc ; sk next
fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till the last fsc. (Read note first)
Note : The strap we’ve just created is cute, and you could stop
right here OR you could swing around the edge and work 3 sc in the turning fsc,
and then work the same Row 1 pattern down the fsc chain from the other side
too.
So depending on your decision,
you will have a one sided shelled strap or a two sided on.
You will affix this strap to
the top of your vest.
STRAP 2 :
For the second strap, I have decided just to work a foundation (fsc) chain for the length needed from the front of the top to the back. I then worked a sl-st in each fsc back to the front.
So to start, I attached the yarn to one point on the top, worked it all the way to the point at the back of the top, so by the time I had the length of fsc chain done, I also had it attached to the top. Ensure you attach it firmly, and then work the sl-st all the way back to the starting stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends. If you decide you want a slightly thicker strip here, then you could work a fdc chain, and work either dc or sc in each stitch back. Of course, the lovely shelled pattern given in Strap 1 instructions is your other option.
So to start, I attached the yarn to one point on the top, worked it all the way to the point at the back of the top, so by the time I had the length of fsc chain done, I also had it attached to the top. Ensure you attach it firmly, and then work the sl-st all the way back to the starting stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends. If you decide you want a slightly thicker strip here, then you could work a fdc chain, and work either dc or sc in each stitch back. Of course, the lovely shelled pattern given in Strap 1 instructions is your other option.
FRILL :
For our frill, we will work in
rounds.
We will start with a fsc chain,
join it and then work in rounds.
So what’s the difficulty here? Well,
sizing. You will need to work this in
such a way that it goes just over the shoulders for the person intended. We will then add a tie-cord as well, just in
case you want it tighter around the neck.
Now the pattern starts off with a fsc but if you would like the frill to flop over the shoulders a little longer, then I'd suggest that you work the first start row, and then work a few rows of sc or hdc in each st all around for a few rows.
So how many rows is a 'few rows'?
Let's calculate : The actual frill is about 9 rounds. So calculate how many inches you get in 9 rows of your work (This is called calculating gauge). With this number in hand, you know how much the frilly neckline is - and if you want it longer, you just add that many rows of sc or hdc right at the top. Adding too many plain rows of sc or hdc may not look that good, so you could probably work in a few 'holes' (read : lacy pattern ;) ) by working in a ch-sp every other stitch - which means that you could work a sc /hdc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next st, sc/hdc in the next st all the way around.
In the following round, you will work a sc/hdc in each st and ch-sp all around. This will make this 'extension' look like a pattern too. Got it?
OK then.. onto the actual frill pattern.
Now the pattern starts off with a fsc but if you would like the frill to flop over the shoulders a little longer, then I'd suggest that you work the first start row, and then work a few rows of sc or hdc in each st all around for a few rows.
So how many rows is a 'few rows'?
Let's calculate : The actual frill is about 9 rounds. So calculate how many inches you get in 9 rows of your work (This is called calculating gauge). With this number in hand, you know how much the frilly neckline is - and if you want it longer, you just add that many rows of sc or hdc right at the top. Adding too many plain rows of sc or hdc may not look that good, so you could probably work in a few 'holes' (read : lacy pattern ;) ) by working in a ch-sp every other stitch - which means that you could work a sc /hdc in 1st st ; ch 1, sk next st, sc/hdc in the next st all the way around.
In the following round, you will work a sc/hdc in each st and ch-sp all around. This will make this 'extension' look like a pattern too. Got it?
OK then.. onto the actual frill pattern.
Start with fsc in multiples of 16.
Keeping this fsc chain flat,
join with a sl-st to the 1st fsc.
We will now work in rounds.
Our “V”-st is (dc ; ch 3, dc)
all in the same st or ch-sp
Working a hdc instead of an sc in the following row adds to the length of your frill.
Working a hdc instead of an sc in the following row adds to the length of your frill.
Round 1 : “V”-st in the 1st st ;
*[ch 5 , sk next 4 fsc, sc
in the next 7 fsc] ;
(ch 5, sk next 4 fsc, “V”-st in the next fsc)* ;
rep *to*
till our first “V”-st ;
ch 5, sk last 4 fsc and join with a sl-st to that
“V”-st.
In the following round we will
work 11 dc in the “V”-st.
Now what I’ve
done is work 1 dc on that 1st dc of the “V”-st, work 9 dc in the
ch-3 sp, and then the 11th dc on that 2nd dc of the
“V”-st.
That said, you could opt to work
all 11 dc in the ch-3 sp.
You can use either a dc or a trc in the following row. It will not change the pattern at all. The trc just adds to the length of the stitch.
You can use either a dc or a trc in the following row. It will not change the pattern at all. The trc just adds to the length of the stitch.
Choices & decisions for you ... 😃
Round 2 : 11 dc in the 1st “V”-st ;
*[ch 5 , sk next sc, sc
in the next 5 sc] ;
ch 5, sk next sc, 11
dc in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 5 , sk next sc, sc in the
next 5 sc ;
ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the first “V”-st.
Round 3 : sc in the 1st 11 dc ;
*[ch 5 , sk next sc, sc in
the next sc] ;
ch 5, sk next sc, sc in
the next 11 dc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 5 , sk next sc, sc in the next sc ;
ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the first st.
Round 4 : sc in the 1st 11 sc ;
*[ch 5 , sk next sc, sc in
the next 3 sc] ;
ch 5, sk next sc, sc in
the next 11 sc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 5 , sk next sc, sc in the next 3 sc
;
ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the first st.
Round 5 : sc in the 1st 11 sc ;
*[ch 5 , sk next sc, “V”-st in the next
sc] ;
ch 5, sk next sc, sc in the next 11 sc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 5 , “V”-st in the
next sc ;
ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the first st.
Round 6 : sl-st in the 1st 2 sc ;
*sc in the next 7 sc ; ch
4, dc in the next ch-3 sp,
[ch 2 , dc in
the same ch-3 sp] ;
rep [to] 3 times ;
ch 4, sk next 2 sc, sc in the next 7 sc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the first st.
In the following round we'll use a trc or Triple / treble crochet stitch. You can opt to use the dc as well - it does not affect the pattern - just makes for a shorter stitch ;)
In the following round we'll use a trc or Triple / treble crochet stitch. You can opt to use the dc as well - it does not affect the pattern - just makes for a shorter stitch ;)
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Round 7 : sl-st in the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ;
*(ch
4, sk next 2 sc, trc in the next dc) ;
4 trc in each of the next ch-2 sps ; dc in the next dc ;
[ch 3 , sk next 2 sc , sc in the next 3 sc]* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the
first st.
Round 8 : sl-st till the 1st trc , dc in the same trc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 trc, dc in the next trc
*(ch 3, sk next 2 trc, dc in the next trc) ;
*(ch 3, sk next 2 trc, dc in the next trc) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
[ch 3, sk next 3 trc, dc in the next trc] ;
ch 3, sk next 3 sc, dc in the next trc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
[ch 3, sk next 3 trc, dc in the next trc] ;
ch 3, sk next 3 sc, dc in the next trc* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 4 and join with a sl-st to the first st.
In the following round we’ll work a dc 2-tog, but we will be working it over two dc, skipping 3 chain stitches in the middle.
In the following round we’ll work a dc 2-tog, but we will be working it over two dc, skipping 3 chain stitches in the middle.
dc 2-tog : Double
crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp,
yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo,
draw through all lps on hk. One dc 2-tog
made.
Round 9 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc , skipping the 3 ch in
between ;
*(ch 3, dc 2-tog over the same last dc and the next dc , skipping the 3 ch in between) ;
rep (to)
3 times ;
[ch 3 , sc in the next ch-3 sp]* ;
rep *to* all around ;
ch 4 and
join with a sl-st to the first st.
Note : Just for kicks (and a creative difference), I've decided to work a dc 5-tog in each ch-3 sp 5 times instead of the Special dc 2-tog, and then work the [to] as instructed.
As you can see, the difference is minor, but I love it. So go ahead and see what you'd like to do.. throw in a picot as well if you'd like.. all in the name of creativity and difference :) !
Note : Just for kicks (and a creative difference), I've decided to work a dc 5-tog in each ch-3 sp 5 times instead of the Special dc 2-tog, and then work the [to] as instructed.
As you can see, the difference is minor, but I love it. So go ahead and see what you'd like to do.. throw in a picot as well if you'd like.. all in the name of creativity and difference :) !
How to work a picot stitch : Traditionally for a ch-3 picot, you work (ch 3, sl-st in 3rd ch from hook). For a ch-5 picot, you will do (ch 5, sl-st in 5th ch from hook).
Here’s a great video https://youtu.be/8s3zVaBcn4s
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing :
First attach the straps on to
the top of the vest, and then attach your sides.
Then comes the slightly tricky
part of attaching this round frill to the top of the vest.
What I’ve done is find the
centres (back & front) as well as two sides of the frill, and then pinned it to
the centres and sides of your top.
I
then pinned the frill down from the
centre(s) to the sides along the top edge of the vest, till the armhole.
There will be a free portion that will
overlap over the sides, which gives you that off the shoulder effect.
Fasten off and weave in
ends. Give yourself a big pat on the back
as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from
the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m
sure you’ll agree.
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed !
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Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and a doll’s top..
and some bolero/jacket/vests that will look grand on a top..
I have a few girls dresses, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
For cute hair embellishments and motifs check the links below.
..and some belts..
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
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