Wednesday, 6 July 2016

SUPERB DIAMOND YOKE



SUPERB DIAMOND YOKE

I am on a roll, I guess. I started on one D.I.Y yoke and have had such fun with it that I just had to try another one.. and then another .. So yet another plain t-shirt that is getting D.I.Y-it a bit.  I found this really interesting diamond pattern as, and I plan on making this as a yoke.

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838785703/

Materials used : Today I’ve used 1 skein of our Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook.

Skill level: Intermediate to Advanced.

Abbreviations used : Using U.S terminology
fdc : Foundation double crochet                                dc : Double crochet
ch(s) : chain(s                                                                ch-sp : chain space
sp(s) : space(s)                                                              rep : Repeat
hk : hook                                                                         yo : Yarn over
sk : Skip                                                                            lp(s) : Loop(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)


Stitches used : Using U.S terminology
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.



Instructions : Using U.S terminology
This is a straight simple pattern.  We work one side of the yoke at a time.  The pattern is the same for both front and back. The only difference (if you so desire) is the depth of the neckline.

Our first row is worked for half the round chest / bust measure.  As we’re working a straight sleeve (i.e no decrease and curved armhole), and if you are working a yoke, you  could  decide to work a little more than needed for your chest measure, such that that little *extra* can spill over and become a little sleeve of sorts.

So what does this mean? Well, if say your round chest measure is 34”, then ideally you would need to start with a fsc chain of 17”, right?  So instead if you start with say 19”, then that extra 2” can become the little sleeve that just falls over your shoulder.

All this means, is that when you start working for your shoulder, you remember that you’ve worked a little extra, and then calculate the neckline opening, rather than the shoulder width. 
Got it?  Great.. moving on then.

Now you can be adventurous and make a top with this pattern, and if you are doing that, then the first row you will work is half the round waist measure (or half the round measure of the chest /bust, whichever is the larger round measure).

So hooks in hand.. decide if you’re making a yoke or a top, and bombs away.. (or hook on?)




Our pattern repeat is 21 + 1.

Start : with fsc in multiples of 21 + 1 for the half the round chest / bust measurement.

Row 1 : sc in the 1st fsc ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the next 4 fsc ; ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, dc in the next 2 fsc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, dc in the next 4 fsc ; ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 4, 2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 3, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next dc ; ch 4, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 3 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 4, 2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next dc ; dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;  dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 3, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 4, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end.  Turn.

Row 4 : trc in the 1st sc ;
2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next dc ; (dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;  dc in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
ch 3, rep (to) once ; dc in the next dc ;
sk both ch-4 sps and sc, 2 dc in the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last sc ; trc in the last sc.  Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st trc ;
dc in the next 2 dc ; (dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;  dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ;
ch 11, rep (to) once ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
{ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;  dc in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc}* ;
rep *to* till last trc ; dc in the last trc.  Turn.

Row 6 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;  dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ; ch 4, sc in the next ch-11 sp ;
ch 4, rep (to) once ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
{ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;  dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc}* ;
rep *to* till last 4 dc ; rep (to) once ; dc in the last 2 dc.  Turn.

Row 7 : dc in the 1st dc ; (dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ;  dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, rep (to) once ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till last 3 dc ; rep (to) once ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 8 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; *ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 dc ; dc in the last 2 dc.  Turn.

Row 9 : dc in the 1st dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;  
*[ch 3, (dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;  dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 4, sc in the next sc ; ch 4, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once] ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till last 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 10 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; 
*[ch 3, (dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;  dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 4, sc in the next sc ; ch 4, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once] ;
{rep (to) once ; dc in the next 2 dc ; rep (to) once}* ;
rep *to* till last 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 11 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; 
*[ch 3, (dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;  dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
sk both ch-4 sps and sc, {2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once} ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 12 : trc in the 1st dc ;
[(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;  dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
*{ rep (to) once ; dc in the next 4 dc ; rep (to) once} ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ; rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till last dc ; trc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 13 : sc in the 1st trc ;
Ch 4, [(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;  dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
*{ rep (to) once ; dc in the next 2 dc ; rep (to) once} ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ; ch 11, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till last trc ; ch 4, sc in the last trc.  Turn.

Row 14 : sc in the 1st sc ;
Ch 4, [(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;  dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
*rep (to) 2 times ; {ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ; ch 3, sc in the sc ; ch 4, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till last sc ; ch 3, sc in the last sc.  Turn.

Row 15 : sc in the 1st sc ;
Ch 4, [(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;  dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
*rep (to) once ; dc in the next 2 dc ; rep (to) once ;
{ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once ;
ch 4, sc in the ch-11 sp ; ch 4, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till last sc ; ch 4, sc in the last sc.  Turn.

Row 16 : sc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch 3, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end ; ch 3, sc in the last sc.  Turn.

Phew.. this was one long repeat, but I know you have figured it out… and see how beautiful this is.

Our pattern repeats are Rows 2- 16.

So here’s where you start making decisions.

What are you creating? If you are creating a top, and have started with the base (waist), then you continue in pattern till you reach the neckline.
If you are working a yoke, then you need to decide how deep you want your yoke and then work till your neckline.
Either way, we meet at the neckline.

We’re working a straight armhole and will not be decreasing for the armhole.

Neckline decrease ideas

Now it really doesn’t matter which row you end at, as the pattern is basically the same.  So here’s what I’ve done. 

As we’re working a straight armhole, if  there is any excess (in waist / bust measure), then that will neatly spill over into the sleeve (of sorts). So rather than have my shoulders fall off, I’ve decided where I want my neckline.  Mark the two sides of the neckline and also the ends of the shoulders (this is especially if you’re working just a yoke, and have worked a little more than needed for your chest measure, so that you get that little sleeve of sorts)

Our pattern is a beautiful set of diamonds – and its all in neat dc’s.  So rather than fool around with the pattern, all I did was follow the pattern and make a neat square neck.

As we’re probably making different projects (i.e a top or a yoke) and different sizes, I’m going to just give you an idea and let you work your magic.

So what I’ve done is work one pattern repeat and then divide for neckline / shoulders.
So I worked till the last dc of the 2nd diamond, and then turned.
I worked straight in pattern, ensuring that I just went back and forth till that last marked stitch till I reached the shoulders.
Once I had one side done, fasten off and re-attach yarn for mirroring the second side of the shoulder.

This pattern is easy enough for a neat square neckline.. so off you go too.

Once you’re done with both sides of your neckline till shoulder, fasten off and weave in ends.

Make a second part to your yoke, if desired and then attach both yokes at the shoulders.

Just for a difference, you could make just one yoke, and pop that onto the back of a tee-shirt and pile your hair high up so you can show that hard work off.. what d’you think?

And can you believe how beautiful this project is !

You can give yourself a huge pat in the back, as though this is a really easy pattern, this one has been a real fun one – and you’ve figured it out too. So yaay !! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

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 Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few yokes already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J



















I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns, check out this link https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/vests-and-tops-made-by-me/ J