SUPERB DIAMOND YOKE
I am on a roll, I guess. I started on one D.I.Y
yoke and have had such fun with it that I just had to try another one.. and
then another .. So yet another plain t-shirt that is getting D.I.Y-it a
bit. I found this really interesting
diamond pattern as, and I plan on making this as a yoke.
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As I work on this pattern, I’ve
written down my notes that I share with you. https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838785703/
Materials used : Today I’ve used 1 skein of our Indian Anchor knitting cotton yarn
with a 3 mm crochet hook.
Skill level: Intermediate to Advanced.
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Here is a sizing chart for general sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/
Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Instructions : Using U.S terminology
This is a straight simple
pattern. We work one side of the yoke at
a time. The pattern is the same for both
front and back. The only difference (if you so desire) is the depth of the
neckline.
Our first row is worked for
half the round chest / bust measure. As
we’re working a straight sleeve (i.e no decrease and curved armhole), and if
you are working a yoke, you could decide to work a little more than needed for
your chest measure, such that that little *extra* can spill over and become a
little sleeve of sorts.
So what does this mean? Well,
if say your round chest measure is 34”, then ideally you would need to start
with a fsc chain of 17”, right? So
instead if you start with say 19”, then that extra 2” can become the little
sleeve that just falls over your shoulder.
All this means, is that when
you start working for your shoulder, you remember that you’ve worked a
little extra, and then calculate the neckline opening, rather than the shoulder
width.
Got it? Great.. moving on then.
Now you can be adventurous and
make a top with this pattern, and if you are doing that, then the first row you
will work is half the round waist measure (or half the round measure of the
chest /bust, whichever is the larger round measure).
So hooks in hand.. decide if
you’re making a yoke or a top, and bombs away.. (or hook on?)
Our stitch count is in multiples of 21 + 1.
Start : with fsc in
multiples of 21 + 1 for the half the round chest / bust measurement.
Row 1 : sc in the 1st
fsc ;
*ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, dc in the
next 4 fsc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, dc in the next 2 fsc ;
ch 3, sk next 3 fsc, dc in the
next 4 fsc ;
ch 3, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
Row 2 : sc in the 1st
sc ;
*ch 4, 2 dc in the next dc, dc
in the next dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; dc in the next dc ;
2 dc in the next dc ; ch 4, sc
in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Row 3 : sc in the 1st
sc ;
*ch 4, 2 dc in the next dc, dc
in the next dc ;
dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ;
[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc
; dc in the next 2 dc ;
2 dc in the next
dc] ;
ch 3, dc 2-tog over the next 2
dc ;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
ch 4, sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Triple Crochet : trc : wrap yarn twice around hook, insert hk into st ; yo (4 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] three times. One trc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/A0y4BbgDTbs
Chainless start for Triple / Treble Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of trc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/f42MO0cGYC0
Row 4 : trc in the 1st
sc ;
2 dc in the next dc, dc in the
next dc ;
(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc
; dc in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc in the next
dc] ;
ch 3, rep (to) once ;
dc in the
next dc ;
sk both ch-4 sps and sc, 2 dc
in the next 2 dc ;
dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last sc ;
trc in
the last sc. Turn.
Row 5 : dc in the 1st
trc ;
dc in the next 2 dc ;
(dc 2-tog
over the next 2 dc) ;
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc
; dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 11, rep (to) once ; dc in
the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
{ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc
; dc in the next 4 dc ;
2 dc in the next
dc}* ;
rep *to* till last trc ;
dc in
the last trc. Turn.
Row 6 : dc in the 1st
2 dc ;
(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc
; dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ; ch 4, sc in the
next ch-11 sp ;
ch 4, rep (to) once ; dc in the
next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
{ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc
; dc in the next 2 dc ; 2 dc in the next
dc}* ;
rep *to* till last 4 dc ;
rep
(to) once ; dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 7 : dc in the 1st
dc ;
(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ;
*[ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc
; dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3,
rep (to) once ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next dc] ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till last 3 dc ;
rep
(to) once ; dc in the last dc. Turn.
Row 8 : dc in the 1st
2 dc ;
*ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch 3, sc in the next sc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc ; dc
in the next 2 dc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 dc ;
dc in
the last 2 dc. Turn.
Row 9 : dc in the 1st
dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
*[ch 3, (dc 2-tog over the next
2 dc) ;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the
next dc ;
ch 4, sc in the next sc ;
ch 4,
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once] ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till last 2 dc ;
2 dc
in the next dc ; dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 10 : dc in the 1st
2 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
*[ch 3, (dc 2-tog over the next
2 dc) ;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the
next dc ;
ch 4, sc in the next sc ;
ch 4,
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once] ;
{rep (to) once ; dc in the next
2 dc ;
rep (to) once}* ;
rep *to* till last 2 dc ;
2 dc
in the next dc ; dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 11 : dc in the 1st
3 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc ;
*[ch 3, (dc 2-tog over the next
2 dc) ; dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the
next dc] ;
sk both ch-4 sps and sc, {2 dc
in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ; rep (to) once} ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc
in the next 4 dc ; 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till last 2 dc ; 2 dc
in the next dc ; dc in the last dc.
Turn.
Row 12 : trc in the 1st
dc ;
[(dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc)
;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next
dc] ;
*{ rep (to) once ; dc in the
next 4 dc ; rep (to) once} ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ;
rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till last dc ;
trc in
the last dc. Turn.
Row 13 : sc in the 1st
trc ;
Ch 4, [(dc 2-tog over the next
2 dc) ;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the
next dc] ;
*{ rep (to) once ; dc in the
next 2 dc ; rep (to) once} ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 11, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till last trc ;
ch 4, sc
in the last trc. Turn.
Row 14 : sc in the 1st
sc ;
Ch 4, [(dc 2-tog over the next
2 dc) ;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the
next dc] ;
*rep (to) 2 times ; {ch 3, 2 dc
in the next dc ; dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ; ch 3, sc in the
sc ;
ch 4, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till last sc ;
ch 3,
sc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 15 : sc in the 1st
sc ;
Ch 4, [(dc 2-tog over the next
2 dc) ;
dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the
next dc] ;
*rep (to) once ; dc in the next
2 dc ;
rep (to) once ;
{ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc
in the next dc ;
rep (to) once ;
ch 4, sc in the ch-11 sp ;
ch
4, rep [to] once* ;
rep *to* till last sc ;
ch 4,
sc in the last sc. Turn.
Row 16 : sc in the 1st
sc ;
*ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch
3, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 3, dc in the next 4 dc ; ch
3, sc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* till end ;
ch 3, sc in
the last sc. Turn.
Phew.. this was one long
repeat, but I know you have figured it out… and see how beautiful this is.
Our pattern repeats are Rows 2- 16.
So here’s where you start
making decisions.
What are you creating? If you are creating a top, and have started with the base (waist), then you continue in pattern till you reach the neckline.
If you are working a yoke, then
you need to decide how deep you want your yoke and then work till your
neckline.
Either way, we meet at the neckline.
Either way, we meet at the neckline.
We’re working a straight armhole
and will not be decreasing for the armhole.
Neckline decrease
ideas
Now it really doesn’t matter
which row you end at, as the pattern is basically the same. So here’s what I’ve done.
As we’re working a straight
armhole, if there is any excess (in waist / bust
measure), then that will neatly spill over into the sleeve (of sorts). So
rather than have my shoulders fall off, I’ve decided where I want my neckline. Mark the two sides of the neckline and also
the ends of the shoulders (this is especially if you’re working just a yoke,
and have worked a little more than needed for your chest measure, so that you
get that little sleeve of sorts)
Our pattern is a beautiful set
of diamonds – and its all in neat dc’s.
So rather than fool around with the pattern, all I did was follow the
pattern and make a neat square neck.
As we’re probably making
different projects (i.e a top or a yoke) and different sizes, I’m going to just
give you an idea and let you work your magic.
So what I’ve done is work one pattern repeat and then divide for neckline / shoulders.
So I worked till the last dc of
the 2nd diamond, and then turned.
I worked straight in pattern,
ensuring that I just went back and forth till that last marked stitch till I
reached the shoulders.
Once I had one side done,
fasten off and re-attach yarn for mirroring the second side of the shoulder.
This pattern is easy enough for a neat square neckline.. so off you go too.
Once you’re done with both
sides of your neckline till shoulder, fasten off and weave in ends.
Make a second part to your yoke, if desired and then attach both yokes at the shoulders.
Just for a difference, you
could make just one yoke, and pop that onto the back of a tee-shirt and pile
your hair high up so you can show that hard work off.. what d’you think?
And can you believe how
beautiful this project is !
You can give yourself a huge
pat in the back, as though this is a really easy pattern, this one has been a
real fun one – and you’ve figured it out too. So yaay !!
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come
back right here for more freebie patterns
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my older creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
I have a few tops already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those
free patterns, check out this link https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/vests-and-tops-made-by-me/
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