Friday 3 July 2015

CLIP ON MOCK CAMISOLE

modeled photo of the clip on mock camisole
CLIP ON MOCK CAMISOLE
My sister in law saw my Kurti or Kurta Yoke pattern and gave me this idea.  I am sure this is going to be a big hit as it’s a great must-make idea.   Thank you Shantha. 

So how often do you find that ‘oh so lovely’ tee shirt or top, and then wonder if you can wear it because it is a bit too low and revealing?  And then need to wait forever till we can find ‘just that right cami’ to add the right blend of modesty as well as pizzazz? 

No more waiting.. We’ll make this little camisole top bit, and then attach it onto the bra strap – neat, don’t you agree?  

Yes, Of course I know this is not my original  idea – the strapping to the bra bit – but using this pattern to make that mock camisole, come on.. give me that! 

Thank you for joining me.

In case you have just joined me, know that you can access all of my earlier creations by checking under ‘categories’ on the right hand side of this blog under “Labels”.  Then, for your convenience, follow me here or on Facebook, You Tube, Pinterest, Twitter or Instagram.

Check out all my social media handles at the bottom of this blog

Oh, and may I add that the fastest way to find any of my blogs is via Pinterest.


All my blogs can be printed.  Find the printer friendly (green) link at the bottom of this blog.  You can also hit Control P (or Command P for Mac) on your keyboard, and the blog will go directly to the connected printer.

Remember that you only print if absolutely essential.  Save paper – Save Our Earth. 


Do remember to add my blog URL when you make and show off your creation. 

Just copy the link on the search bar above - that's the blog URL.


To purchase this or similar yarn online, click here to buy your yarns online via Amazon.  While you will still pay the same, I may get paid by Amazon as well. 

This is a free blog - so do pay it forward for me.  Cheers.


As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.

Materials used : Today I’ve used our Indian Red rose cotton yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook
For Indians : You could use Anchor or Red Rose metallic knitting cotton as well
International yarns :  I have used a regular knitting cotton that technically uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook (recommended).  I use a larger hook as I like the extra stretch it affords the end product.  Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
ch : chain                      ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                     rep : Repeat
dc : Double crochet       sl-st : Slip stitch
ch : Chain                      st : Stitch
hk : hook                        lp : Loop
sk : Skip                         sc : single crochet
ch-sp : chain space
fdc : Foundation double crochet                                 

Stitches used : Using U.S. terminology
Starting slip knot :  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot :   https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
What is a chain stitch ?  https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Instructions :  Using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

So unlike most of the other patterns, we don’t really need a “Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today” – let’s just dive straight in.  
I was reminded by someone who is just starting to work on this, that I should mention that this is a Bottom Up construction.

After having made this a few times, I have a few  thoughts.

I feel that when you are thinking about the length of the cami, work it longer than the bottom of your bra.  That way it will not pop out every time you raise your hand.
OR You could also make a long chain on either side of the bottom row, which you can use to *tie up* to the bra strap (so if you are gong to tie, I'd say make a chain long enough to along the bottom and tie on the sides, say under the arm - so this will need to be a long tie.)
OR you can make the cami long such that you can tuck a bit of it under the bra, once again so that it does not pop out.  

None of this affects the pattern - but I guess if you are making it longer, you could well start with 15 fdc, so that you just tuck that little bit under the centre of the bra.

Right then, have fun.. and do remember to tag me when done.

Start : with fdc in multiples of 13 + 2, depending on how many diamonds you want for your camisole.  Turn.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st 2 fdc ; 
(ch 1, sk next fdc, dc in the next fdc) ; 
*dc in the next 10 fdc ;
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last fdc ;
dc in the last fdc.  Turn.

Row 2 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 
ch 7, sk next ch-sp and 2 dc, dc in the next dc ; 
*dc in the next 8 dc ;
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last dc ;
2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 3 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-7 sp) ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 7 dc ;
rep (to) once* ;
 rep *to* till last ch-sp ; 
 ch 3, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 4 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 5 dc ;
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  
ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 5 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  
ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 6 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next 5 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  
ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next 5 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 7 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next 5 sc) ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next dc ;  dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last sc ; 
ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 8 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next 3 dc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next 3 sc) ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next 3 dc ;  dc in the next ch-3 sp;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last sc ; 
ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next 3 dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 9 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next 5 dc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next sc) ; 
*ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next 5 dc ;  dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last sc ;  
ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next 5 dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 10 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next 7 dc ; dc in the next ch-3 sp ; 
*sk next sc and 1st ch-3 sps, dc in the next ch-3 sp ;
dc in the next 7 dc ;  dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till last sc ; 
sk next sc and both ch-3 sps ;
dc in the next 7 dc, 2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Rows 1-10 form one pattern repeat. 
In case you are happy with the height of this yoke, great.. ignore Row 11 instruction and carry on to finishing instructions please.
If you wish to increase the yoke for a further pattern repeat, please do Row 11 first and then see the pattern repeat instructions.

Row 11 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next 7 dc ; 
(ch 7, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next dc) ; 
*dc in the next 6 dc ;
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last dc ;
2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 12 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next 8 dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-7 sp) ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 5 dc ;
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  
ch 3, sc in the next ch-7 sp ;
ch 3, sk next dc, dc till the last dc ;
2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 13 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next 7 dc ;
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last ch-sp ; 
ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next dc, sc till the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, dc till the last dc ;
2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 14 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next 7 dc ; 
(ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ; 
*ch 3, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till last ch-sp ;  
ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next dc, dc till the last dc ;
2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

Row 15 : 2 dc in the 1st dc ;
dc in the next 7 dc ;
(ch 3, sk next dc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next 5 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
*ch 2, sk next dc, sc in the next dc ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till last ch-sp ; 
ch 3, sk next dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the next 5 sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next dc, dc till the last dc ;
2 dc in the last dc.  Turn.

This length / height should definitely suffice, so we’ll end here. 
Now as we have a dc + sc ending top row, you could either do a row of sc / hdc all around and end off with the finishing instructions below, OR you could also do a row of picot on the top, and then work the two side strips for attaching onto the bra.

chart for the clip on mock camisole

close up photo of the clip on mock camisole

photo of the cami inside a tee shirt

Finishing : So once you’re happy with the height achieved, I thought a line of hdc or sc all around would be a good finish.  So before you fasten off, do a neat row all around – so that’s around the top and sides – just adding that little bit more for the sides so that it won’t peep through the “V” of the top or tee shirt.  You could also add a row of picot on the top edge of this yoke.  Read instructions on how to picot at the top of this blog.

Now another thing that we need to do is attach a button strip to the top of this mock camisole.  So here’s two ways you can do that.

photo of the full clip on camisole

photo of the clip on camisole inside a deep V necked tee shirt

Option 1 :
Work a fdc chain for the length needed to attach the top of your mock camisole to your bra strap.  SO for this, you will need to measure this camisole yoke and work this as there is no formula or specific sizing chart.
Fasten the end off leaving a tail to sew in.  Sew in this end to the top end of your camisole.  You will then attach a button to the other end of this fdc chain in such a way that you are able to loop around your bra strap.
Repeat this for the other end as well.

Option 2 :
While working that last finishing row of sc or fdc around the top edge or your yoke, when you reach the last dc (corner dc) make a long chain that will equal the length needed to attach to your bra strap.  You will then turn 90˚ and work hdc or sc in each ch all the way back on this chain just made , back to that corner dc ; thus having made your first bra strap attachment.
You will then continue down and around the camisole yoke till you reach the other side top corner dc and repeat the instructions for making that second strap.
So this option gives you a few less ends to weave in , but is a bit more complicated. 

Fasten off and weave in ends.  Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! 

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. Come back right here for more freebie patterns

Remember to share this blog post when you share your photos with me on Facebook.  I’d love to feature your photos on my FB page.  Cheers.

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation.  Thanks.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/


Join me on YouTube at https://youtube.com/shyamanivas

And on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/ for more patterns.

Do follow me on Twitter https://twitter.com/ShyamaNivas


Find me on Ravelry at ravelry.com/projects/shyamanivas/

Have a great day and see you soon. 


I have another yoke made - of a different kind, and here's what this looks like

Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too








































and if here are some tops.. that a bolero would look swell over..