SOAP DISPENSER COVER 6
FRILLY MAGYAR SLEEVED DRESS
If you have been following my blog you’ll know
that my latest craze has been soap dispenser covers. I got an order for one, and have been tripping along making several, to
give my client a good choice.
Come along .. let’s work on this together.
Thank you for joining me.
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Materials used : Just
a little bit of Oswal Cashmilon acrylic 3 and 4-ply yarn, with a 4 mm crochet
hook.
You can work in knitting cotton too – I just had
the coolest little bits of acrylic handy so am using up my little bits and
bots.
You can make this project with any yarn
and a hook that suits it.
Skill level : Easy
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Abbreviations used :
(Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)
sc
: Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp
: Space
sl-st : Slip stitch ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
fsc : Foundation Single crochet
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
I found a
photograph but am unable to find any written pattern for it.
Inspired by this photo, here are my notes for
what I have done.
Before we start
off, there are a few measurements we need to take.
1.
Measure
your bottle(s) and figure out what approx length and width you’d like.
2.
Find
the halfway (or just above halfway)point of your bottle, which will be the
‘waist’ of our dress. Just like a dress
or top that you’d make for a human, check the measurement for the base of your
bottle too – so you can decide which way you will dress up your bottle. Ensure that you make your first row a little
more than the half round measure of the largest part of your bottle – for ease
of slipping the bottle in.
3.
Check
the round ‘neck’ (neck of bottle) measure for your bottle.
For our dress
we will start at the ‘waist’ and head up to the neck. We will then come back down to this waist
start row and work down for the skirt portion of our dress.
This pattern is
easy to follow when you have a slightly more ‘straight-line’ bottle. You also need to use a little bit of logic
and calculation.
If your bottle
tapers a lot around the ‘neck’ of the bottle and then is steadily large around
the lower part, then I’d suggest you keep your ‘yoke’ a little less – that way
you will get a nice frilly long dress and still not have to calculate too much.
The upper
portion of the dress has no stitch count – you can work in sc / hdc or dc,
without affecting the pattern. We will
work one front and one back for the upper part of our bottle.
The lower part
of the dress has a stitch count in multiples of 3. We will be working this part in a round, in
one piece.
Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA
Start Row 1 : with as many fsc as you’d need for half the
‘waist’ measure of your bottle in multiples of 3.
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Row 2 : dc in the 1st fsc ;
(ch 1, sk next fsc, dc in
the next fsc) ;
rep (to) all till
end. Turn.
We have now
made a small hole row into which you can thread your ribbon to cinch and hold
the waist together.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(dc in the next ch-1 sp ;
dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all
till end. Turn.
Now check your
gauge. See how many inches you have
worked in these two rows. This will tell
you how many more inches you need to get to the ‘neck’ of your bottle. As I said before, if there is a huge gradient
between the neck and whichever part you are starting your 1st row,
you either need to lessen the yoke portion, or you need to decrease.
Double crochet 2-tog : dc 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ;
{yo, draw through 2 lps on hk} 2 times. One dc 2-tog made.
This video tutorial at https://youtu.be/1_oPlUfN5eg shows you how to use the dc 2-tog to decrease.
Sometimes we work the dc 2-tog in the same stitch, to use as a decorative stitch. Visit this video tutorial at https://youtu.be/lLUXOJ1sY9w
To decrease along body : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sts ;
dc
in each dc till the last 2 sts ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts.
Rep either Row 3 or work a
decrease row and then rep Row 3 till you are one row away from the neck of your
work.
For the neck of the bottle, find the halfway
point and calculate how many stitches you need to skip on both sides of this
centre point to allow your bottle nozzle to slip through the neck of your
dress. Place markers on these two side
points.
To decrease for neck : dc in each dc till 2 sts from the 1st
marker ;
dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts.
Turn and leave the rest of the stitches unworked.
Check if this
opening is sufficient for the bottle nozzle, else repeat a further decrease
Decrease
row : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sts ;
dc
in each dc till end.
In case you find the opening is large enough, then do not
decrease.
Next row : dc in each dc till end.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Re-attach your
yarn at the 2nd marker for the other side.
To decrease for neck for the other
side of front of work :
dc
2-tog over the 1st 2 sts from the 2nd marker ;
dc in each
dc till end. Turn
In case you
have decreased for side 1, you will need to mirror and decrease here again.
In case you
have not decreased, then you just work a dc in each dc till end. Fasten off and
weave in ends.
One side done – let’s call this the Front yoke of your dress.
Repeat all these instructions for the back yoke of your dress too.
Once done,
attach your yokes along the shoulder and leaving an ‘armhole’ opening, attach
along the sides too.
You now have the yoke done. Let’s work on the
frilly base of the dress.
For the base you can work in one color or two. It totally depends on you.
Now turn your
work away from you and go back to working on that first fsc row. We will work on the other side of this first
fsc row. As back and front are joined,
we will work in one round.
Part 2 : Skirt of dress
We will use a Shell stitch which is (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
Start Round 1 : by re-attaching your yarn in any fsc ;
Shell st in that fsc ;
(sk next 2 fsc
; Shell st in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) till
end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp of the 1st
Shell st ;
Shell st in
that same 1st ch-2 sp ;
Shell st in
each Shell st all around ;
Join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
Rep Round 2
till you are one row before the length you need for your dress.
Now before we
work that last round, here’s another tweak.
In case you
want more of a flared skirt base, increase one dc in the Shell st – so that
means you will work (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) all in the same sp.
For our final
round, you may want to change colour. If you do, then use this contrast colour
for this border, as well as the sleeves, the edging of neck and the lacing that
goes around waist.
Last Round : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp of the
1st Shell st ;
7 dc in that
same 1st ch-2 sp ;
(sc in the
space between the 2 Shell sts ;
7 dc in the next ch-2 sp of the next Shell st)
; rep (to) all around ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
neck finishing : Re-attach your
contrast yarn (if using contrast) to any stitch in the neck. Sc in that st and in each st all around. Use this round to neatly weave in all your
ends and hide them away.
Armhole
finishing :
Re-attach your
contrast yarn (if using contrast) to any stitch in the armhole (preferably
right in the bottom centre).
Work a
round of sc all around in multiples of 3
Now let’s work a round of Shell st all around.
Shell st in the
1st sc ;
(sk next 2 c ;
Shell st in the next fsc) ;
rep (to) till
end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Waist cord : You can either make one with the contrast
yarn, or just get a satin ribbon that you will pass through the hole row
between yoke and skirt portion of your dress.
In case you are
making it, then just work a sc chain for as long as you need to go around the
body of you dress and have sufficient to make a nice bow. Then work a sc in each st all the way back to
the end to give your cord a little body.
A simpler way
would be to work a fsc chain for the length needed for your cord. If you work
the fsc chain, you just finish off and weave in ends when you have got the
length needed. Weave it neatly through
the holes and make a lovely bow.
Weave in all
ends and glue them all down.
Ta da ! One
absolutely beautiful dressy soap dispenser cover ready!
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