Thursday, 25 August 2016


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free crochet pattern, free crochet baby dress pattern,

This is my third pattern in quick succession for a baby dress – and as you can see it’s rainin’ baby girls .. and I’m happily going through my ‘to-do’ list.. absolutely no complaints here.  Thanks to this dress (and all the other projects I did during the Ravellenic Games), I won a really neat Gold Medal ! Yaay !

Do check my long Pinterest “to-do” list for little girl’s dresses at

Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. 

Inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes.
Just in case this is the pattern you're looking for, then this was the inspiration.

Materials usedToday I have used ~ 80 gms of our lovely Indian Vardhaman Millennium 4-ply acrylic yarn with a 4 mm crochet hook 
Optional : Stitch marker

Size made : For a 0 - 6 month old

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure.

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing

How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :

Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                               sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                         hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                 yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                       sc : Single crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, working from the chest / waist up.  Now it’s up to you to decide *where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist. 

These instructions are not that important when working for a new born baby dress, but they do when the dress sizing is for a larger child. Remember that you need to ensure that you need to work with the largest of these measures (i.e if you want your yoke starting at waist, but the chest measure is larger, then that’s you will use half the chest measure)

We will then work on the skirt portion of our dress off the bottom of the yoke.

Now there is a link for a set of charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.

There is a pattern that we will work for the corners of our yoke.  I need to give you instructions with numbers, so just for convenience, I am going to write this pattern out for Yoke for a 0 – 6 month baby.
This does not mean that you need to make only this size

You will take a look at the chart for the yokes, and you will work it according to the numbers given for the size on your chart

There is a link given above for chart on square neck sizing. Check that out before you start, in case you do not have a well-fitted outfit of the child you’re making this for.

And  just when you thought we’re going to pick up our hooks, I’m holding you back with more *ideas* and *tweaks*.

As I’ve said before, I love little baby dresses with a little flare and not totally “A”-lined and here’s what I’ve done to add flare in this dress.

When the pattern repeat for the skirt portion is a long/large one, then with the restricted number of stitches for the tiny chest portion, we need to figure a way to add stitches for the skirt… all on that first round.
Remember here that if you alter the pattern repeat given, you need to calculate the number of stitches you are starting with on your own
a)   In the pattern below, it will say “sk … sts” (the … being indicative of number of sts).  So you could reduce the gap and reduce the number of sts skipped.
b)   You keep the number of sts skipped the same, but instead of using 3 sts for the 3 dc in between, on that first round , you work all 3 dc in the 1st st
c)     You combine both (a) and (b)

All this said, I am going to write the pattern instructions as charted and you can tweak it and create your beautiful dress as you please

Part I : Yoke

Start Row 1 :  with fsc for the number of stitches per chart (i.e according to the yoke size you’re making).  Turn.

Place markers for the four corners of your yoke. 
By the chart that we’re referring to now (for the 0-6m), we will count off 7 sts and place a maker on the 8th st for 1st corner, then count off 11 sts and place the 2nd marker, then count of 16 sts and place the 3rd marker, and finally count off 11 sts and place the 4th last marker.

We also have a “V”-st for this part of the yoke which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp

Row 2 :  dc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till the 1st marker ;
“V”-st in the marked st ;
*dc in each fsc till the next marker ; “V”-st in the marked st* ;
rep *to* 2 times till end.  Turn.

Before we move any further, quick note.  You need to decide how much of an opening you need for your buttons at the back.  Depending on how deep that is, you will work back and forth in rows.  Once you have a button placket that you’re happy with, then you will just join with a sl-st at that last st, and work in rounds thereafter.
For little babies, and younger kids, you will work a longer button placket so that we can ease the dress past the babies’ head properly.

Row 3 :  dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the 1st ch-1 sp ;
“V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ;
*dc in each dc till the next ch-1 sp ; “V”-st in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* 2 times till end.  Turn.

Rep Row 3 till we have the yoke size we need.
So what’s our yoke size? It’s right there on the chart.  So the top part of the chart shows you the number of stitches needed, and the lower part is the folded over yoke, and it has the length of shoulder and length from shoulder to base of yoke.  So work according to the sizing you’re creating, and we’ll meet in a bit for the skirt part of the yoke.
I suggest that we work the skirt portion of our dress in rounds. So on that last row for the yoke, go ahead and join the two ends so that we have a neat round to work on.

Part 2 : Skirt

Our pattern repeat here is 10.

So first you need to fold the yoke down and check that between the front and back of the yoke, you have multiples of 10 stitches.

For this section of our skirt pattern, we are going to use a “V” stitch which is different from the “V”-st used for the yoke

Our “V”-st here will be (dc ; ch 3, dc in the same st), which will all be worked in the same st or ch-sp.
Note that when we say “V”-st here on, it’s this and not the “V”-st used before.

Round 1 :  dc in the 1st 3 sts ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 sts, “V”-st in the next st ; 
ch 1, sk next 3 sts, dc in the next 3 sts* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 2 :  sk the 1st dc ; dc in next dc ;
*ch 1, 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp (of “V”-st) ; 
ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; sk next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 :  “V”-st in the 1st dc ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; 
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

The following round, as you’ll see is a lot like our Round 2. We’re just moving the 7 dc a little to get this lovely pattern going.

Round 4 :  7 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; 
ch 1, sk next dc, 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 :  sl-st into the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; 
ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; * ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

And that’s our pattern .. 
Rep Rounds 2 – 6, ending with a Round 2 or 4, till you have a project of the length you need.  

To figure out the general length of dress, do visit the convenient link(s) given right at the top of this blog.

For the last round, you could opt to work a row or picots all around the 7 dc.  As I’m working with a thicker yarn, I’ve decided not to do that, but you work your creative genius and enjoy.

Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your cute lil' baby girl or young lady.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ?? :)

I should also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric.  I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top.  The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?

Finishing : 

1.       You have joined the shoulders and got the armholes in place before we got the skirt portion done so yaay
2.     You need to work the button placket – so I’d suggest we start with one round of sc all around the neckline.
3.     I then worked a small shell border – and in case you want to do this, then work the sc around the neckline in multiples of 3 or 5.
4.     Small shell pattern all around : (Multiples of 3) : sc in the 1st sc ; sk next sc and 3 dc in the next sc ; sk the next sc and sc in the next sc.  Rep this pattern all around for a small shell.  End with a sc or sl-st in last st.
5.     Large shell pattern all around : (Multiples of 5) : sc in the 1st sc ; sk next 2 sc and 5 dc in the next sc ; sk the next 2 sc and sc in the next sc.  Rep this pattern all around for a large shell. End with a sc or sl-st in last st.
6.     Picot finish :  You could end with a small picot (check “how to” on top of blog) and you could do this every alternate stitch – but first you would need to do that round of sc to start.
7.     You can do one of these three finishes around the armhole as well.

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