YET ANOTHER CUTE BABY DRESS
This is my third pattern in quick succession for
a baby dress – and as you can see it’s rainin’ baby girls .. and I’m happily
going through my ‘to-do’ list.. absolutely no complaints here. Thanks to this dress (and all the other projects I did during the Ravellenic Games), I won a really neat Gold Medal ! Yaay !
Thank you for joining me.
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little girl’s dresses at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/girls-dresses-to-make/
Inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes.
Just in case this is the pattern you're looking for, then this was the inspiration.
Materials used : Today I have
used ~ 80 gms of our lovely Indian Vardhaman Millennium 4-ply acrylic yarn with
a 4 mm crochet hook
Optional : Stitch
marker
Size made : For
a 0 - 6 month old
Difficulty level
: Intermediate Skill level
Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
How to add beads : Check this video at https://youtu.be/EcpgMgBox8I
How to work with beads in crochet : Check out this video at https://youtu.be/yanbAnF_pr0
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.
This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
So before we set off on our new creative
journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.
We start with the yoke, working from the chest /
waist up. Now it’s up to you to decide
*where* your *waist* is – by that I mean that you can have it just under the
armholes, or you could go way lower to the waist.
These instructions are not that important when
working for a new born baby dress, but they do when the dress sizing is for a
larger child. Remember that you need to ensure that you need to work with the largest
of these measures (i.e if you want your yoke starting at waist, but the chest
measure is larger, then that’s you will use half the chest measure)
We will then work on the skirt portion of our
dress off the bottom of the yoke.
Now there is a link for a set of charts
depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference.
There is a pattern that we will work for the
corners of our yoke. I need to give you
instructions with numbers, so just for convenience, I am going to write this
pattern out for Yoke for a 0 – 6 month baby.
This does not mean that you need to make only this
size
You will take a look at the chart for the yokes,
and you will work it according to the numbers given for the size on your
chart
There is a link given above for chart on square
neck sizing. Check that out before you start, in case you do not have a
well-fitted outfit of the child you’re making this for.
And just
when you thought we’re going to pick up our hooks, I’m holding you back with
more *ideas* and *tweaks*.
As I’ve said before, I love little baby dresses
with a little flare and not totally “A”-lined and here’s what I’ve done to add
flare in this dress.
When the pattern repeat for the skirt portion is a long/large one, then with the restricted number of stitches for the tiny chest portion, we need to figure a way to add stitches for the skirt… all on that first round.
Remember here that if you alter the pattern
repeat given, you need to calculate the number of stitches you are starting
with on your own
a) In
the pattern below, it will say “sk … sts” (the … being indicative of number of
sts). So you could reduce the gap
and reduce the number of sts skipped.
b) You
keep the number of sts skipped the same, but instead of using 3 sts for the 3
dc in between, on that first round , you work all 3 dc in the 1st
st
c) You
combine both (a) and (b)
All this said, I am going to write the pattern
instructions as charted and you can tweak it and create your beautiful dress as
you please
Part I : Yoke
Start Row 1 : with fsc for the number of stitches per chart
(i.e according to the yoke size you’re making).
Turn.
Place markers for the four corners of your
yoke.
By the chart that we’re referring to now (for
the 0-6m), we will count off 7 sts and place a maker on the 8th st
for 1st corner, then count off 11 sts and place the 2nd
marker, then count of 16 sts and place the 3rd marker, and finally
count off 11 sts and place the 4th last marker.
We also have a “V”-st for this part of the yoke
which is (dc ; ch 1, dc) all in the same st or ch-sp
Row 2 : dc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc
till the 1st marker ;
“V”-st in the marked st ;
*dc in each fsc till the next marker ; “V”-st in
the marked st* ;
rep *to* 2 times till end. Turn.
Before we move any further, quick note. You need to decide how much of an opening you
need for your buttons at the back.
Depending on how deep that is, you will work back and forth in
rows. Once you have a button placket
that you’re happy with, then you will just join with a sl-st at that last st,
and work in rounds thereafter.
For little babies, and younger kids, you will
work a longer button placket so that we can ease the dress past the babies’
head properly.
Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc
till the 1st ch-1 sp ;
“V”-st in the same ch-1 sp ;
*dc in each dc till the next ch-1 sp ; “V”-st in
the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* 2 times till end. Turn.
Rep Row 3 till we have the yoke size we need.
So what’s our yoke size? It’s right there on the
chart. So the top part of the chart
shows you the number of stitches needed, and the lower part is the folded over
yoke, and it has the length of shoulder and length from shoulder to base of
yoke. So work according to the sizing
you’re creating, and we’ll meet in a bit for the skirt part of the yoke.
I suggest that we work the skirt portion of our
dress in rounds. So on that last row for the yoke, go ahead and join the two
ends so that we have a neat round to work on.
Part 2 : Skirt
Our stitch count is in multiples of 10.
So first you need to fold the yoke down and
check that between the front and back of the yoke, you have multiples of 10
stitches.
For this section of our skirt pattern, we are
going to use a “V” stitch which is different from the “V”-st used for the
yoke
Our “V”-st here will be (dc ; ch 3, dc in the
same st), which will all be worked in the same st or ch-sp.
Note that when we say “V”-st here on, it’s this
and not the “V”-st used before.
Round 1 : dc in the 1st 3 sts ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 sts, “V”-st in the next st ;
ch
1, sk next 3 sts, dc in the next 3 sts* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st dc.
Round 2 : sk the 1st dc ; dc in next dc ;
*ch 1, 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp (of “V”-st) ;
ch
1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ; sk next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 3 : “V”-st in the 1st dc ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ;
ch 1,
sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st
to the 1st st.
The following round, as you’ll see is a lot like
our Round 2.
We’re just moving the 7 dc a little to get this lovely pattern
going.
Round 4 : 7 dc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ;
ch 1, sk
next dc, 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the
1st st.
Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st 2 dc ; dc in
the next 3 dc ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 dc, “V”-st in the next dc ;
ch
1, sk next 2 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; * ;
rep *to* all around and join with a
sl-st to the 1st st.
And that’s our pattern ..
Rep Rounds 2 – 6,
ending with a Round 2 or 4, till you have a project of the length you
need.
To figure out the general length of dress, do visit the convenient link(s) given right at the top of this blog.
For the last round, you could opt to work a row
or picots all around the 7 dc. As I’m
working with a thicker yarn, I’ve decided not to do that, but you work your
creative genius and enjoy.
Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet
another beautiful dress made for your cute lil' baby girl or young lady.
Ta da..
isn’t this just beautiful ?? :)
I should
also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink
beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely
as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a
little fabric. I then sewed in the beads
onto that little fabric top. The base of
the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I
think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?
Finishing :
1.
You have joined the shoulders and
got the armholes in place before we got the skirt portion done so yaay
2.
You need to work the button placket –
so I’d suggest we start with one round of sc all around the neckline.
3.
I then worked a small shell border –
and in case you want to do this, then work the sc around the neckline in
multiples of 3 or 5.
4.
Small shell pattern all
around :
(Multiples of 3) : sc in the 1st sc ; sk next sc and 3 dc in the
next sc ; sk the next sc and sc in the next sc.
Rep this pattern all around for a small shell. End with a sc or sl-st in last st.
5.
Large shell pattern all
around :
(Multiples of 5) : sc in the 1st sc ; sk next 2 sc and 5 dc in the
next sc ; sk the next 2 sc and sc in the next sc. Rep this pattern all around for a large shell.
End with a sc or sl-st in last st.
6.
Picot finish :
You could end with a small picot (check “how to” on top of blog) and you
could do this every alternate stitch – but first you would need to do that
round of sc to start.
7.
You can do
one of these three finishes around the armhole as well.
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Have a great day and see you soon.
I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go
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