Tuesday, 10 October 2017

LOVELY AUTUMN VEST

free crochet vest pattern, free crochet belt pattern, free crochet head band pattern, free crochet flower motif

free crochet belt pattern, free crochet head band pattern, free crochet flower motif

LOVELY AUTUMN VEST

My friend is off to celebrate the 1st birthday of her grandson.  Usually people gift the baby who’s birthday it is.. I am a little weird.. I love to gift the older child (as well).. especially when it’s a first birthday for the 2nd one :O. 
I sneak-peeked into the “To-do” list of my friend’s pins and have chosen one of her pins ;) Sneaaaky, right? But I do hope she appreciates the sneakiness too J

Once again, this is not my pattern but just my notes when I make my own exclusive and individual project.  I have the permission of the lovely Martina, who has designed this project (but does not have a write up for it) to write my notes for this lovely autumn vest

You can make this vest for any size, using any yarn with a suitable crochet hook.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about one skein of our lovely Indian Oswal Cashmilon Variegated Acrylic 3-ply yarn with a 3 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; stitch markers
Other yarns : While I’ve chosen an acrylic yarn, you can make this with a knitting cotton yarn and a 2.5 – 3 mm (or as suggested by yarn company) crochet hook.

Skill level : Intermediate.  

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                 dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                                     ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                    rep : Repeat
sc : Single crochet


Stitches used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg

Body sizing charts : Use these charts for general body sizing



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Pattern Instructions : Using U.S terminology

For this lovely shelled bolero, I have been inspired by this project at http://missganchillo.blogspot.in/2013/08/chaleco-para-nina-con-diadema.html
This project does not have a write up, but I have the permission of the lovely Martina, who has designed this, to write my notes for her creation. 
Please go to this blog to see all her lovely creations.   This is the photograph that inspired me to create my autumn vest and headband / belt



We will work one back and 2 fronts for our little bolero. 
We work bottom up – starting at the waist (or whatever length you want the bolero) and work our way up to the shoulders

PART 1 : BACK
Make one piece

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The stitch count for both back and front is the same.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 6 + 1.
Check the top of this blog for a “how to make an fsc chain”

Start with stitches in multiples of 6 + 1 for half the waist measure

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; 
(ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ; ch 3, sc in the same fsc) ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till the last 3 fsc ; 
sk next 2 fsc, ch 1, dc in the last fsc. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 3, sc in the ch-3 sp ; 
ch 3, sk next dc, (sc in the next dc ; ch 2, sc in the same dc)* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ; 
ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 1, (sc ; ch 3, sc) all in the next sc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep *to* till the last dc ; 
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

.. and that’s our pattern D..O..N..E !

Rep Rows 2 and 3 till you reach the armhole, ending with Row 3. 

We will work a small decrease at that point before we continue on for the shoulders.
Carry on then.. and we’ll meet back shortly.

Armhole Decrease Row : sl-st past the 1st dc ; 1st ch-3 sp ; the 1st 3-dc set and into the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sk next dc, (sc in the next dc ; ch 2, sc in the same dc) ;
ch 3, sc in the ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till the 2nd last ch-3 sp from end ; 
sc in this 2nd last ch-3 sp. Turn.

We have finished decrease.  We will now continue the pattern all the way up to the shoulders. 

We just worked Row 2 of our pattern, so continue now with Row 3 next and then work rep of Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the shoulder.


PART 2 : FRONT
Make two pieces


 The photograph above is the designer's original - not mine.  
As she has used a solid colour, her stitch shows up better than mine does in variegated, and so I share her creation with you.

The stitch count is the same as for the back, but you will work .
Our stitch count is in multiples of 6 + 1

Start with stitches in multiples of 6 + 1 for half of back measure

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc ; 
(ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ; ch 3, sc in the same fsc) ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* till the last 3 fsc ; 
sk next 2 fsc, ch 1, dc in the last fsc. Turn.

Row 2 : sc in the 1st dc ;
*ch 3, sc in the ch-3 sp ; ch 3, sk next dc, (sc in the next dc ; ch 2, sc in the same dc)* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ; 
ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1st sc ;
*ch 1, (sc ; ch 3, sc) all in the next sc ; ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ; 
rep *to* till the last dc ; 
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

Rep Rows 2 and 3 till you reach the armhole / neckline, ending with Row 3. 

Carry on then.. and we’ll meet back shortly.


Armhole Decrease Row : sl-st past the 1st dc ; 1st ch-3 sp ; the 1st 3-dc set and into the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sk next dc, (sc in the next dc ; ch 2, sc in the same dc) ;
ch 3, sc in the ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till the 2nd last ch-3 sp from end ; sc in this 2nd last ch-3 sp. Turn.

We just worked Row 2 of our pattern, so continue now with Row 3 next and then work rep of Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the neckline decrease point.

For neckline, we will decrease once, on the side opposite from the armhole. When working on the neckline point, check the width you’d need for the shoulder.  As we are only going to decrease once, ensure that when you have decreased, you have the shoulder width.
Also remember that we are working a small border, which will add to the width of shoulder (both armhole and neck sides).


Neckline Decrease Row : sl-st past the 1st dc  and into the 1st ch-3 sp ;
sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 1, (sc ; ch 3, sc) all in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ; 
ch 1, dc in the last sc. Turn.

We just worked Row 3 of our pattern, so continue now with rep of Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the shoulder level.
Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off.

Rep all these instructions for the other side of the front as well.

Once you are done with both the fronts and one back, attach the shoulder straps and the sides.

We will then work a small border all around the front and back lapels, in one continuous move.  We will work the same border around the sleeve openings as well (armholes).

Right then, let’s get on with it and we’ll meet shortly.


PART 3 : BORDER

Once we have finished attaching the sides and shoulders, we are ready to work the lovely shelled border.

Before we start, let’s run a round of sc all around.
Remember the thumb rule, to work 1 sc in each sc ; 1 sc in each ch-1 sp ; and 2 sc in each horizontal bar of each dc all around.

Our stitch count for our border is in multiples of 6
We will work a 5-dc shell all around, and work 9 dc in each corner.

Border round : sc in the 1st sc ;
(sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc ; sk next 2 sc, sc in the next sc) ;
*rep (to) till next corner ; work 9 dc in the corner ; 
then work (to) till the next corner* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.


PART 4 : FLORAL HEADBAND / BELT

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 and this is the designer's original photograph
This cute accessory can be used as either a headband or a belt.  We make a few tiny flower motifs, and then attach it on to a fsc chain.

FLOWER MOTIF PATTERN

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Check the top of this blog for “how to work a magic circle”

There are two ways to make this little flower. 

METHOD 1 : EASY

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Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 5 sc in that circle.  
Join with a sl-st and pull lightly to close.

Round 2 : (sc , ch 2 , 3 dc , ch 2, sc) all in the 1st sc ; 
and in each sc all around. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

METHOD 2 : SLIGHTLY TOUGHER

free crochet vest pattern, free crochet belt pattern, free crochet head band pattern, free crochet flower motif

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and work (sc , ch 2 , 3 dc , ch 2) x 6 times, all in that circle ; sc and join with a sl-st and pull lightly to close.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.


FINISHING
free crochet vest pattern, free crochet belt pattern, free crochet head band pattern, free crochet flower motif


a)   Decide what you are making this into and accordingly measure the round head size (for headband) or round waist (for belt)
b)   Work a fsc chain for the measurement you just took
c)     Turn and work a sl-st or sc in each st all the way back to the start to thicken and keep your belt/headband firm.
d)   Fasten off and weave in ends
e)    Using an embroidery needle, neatly attach on your flowers onto the headband / belt
f)     Add in a small pearl bead in the centre of each flower, if desired.
g)    Add a small flower at the end of the fsc chain, using the same pattern, if desired

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my earlier vest patterns.  Have fun with these free patterns too






















.. and if you want to take a look at my earlier dress patterns, here you go.