My friend is
off to celebrate the 1st birthday of her grandson. Usually people gift the baby who’s birthday
it is.. I am a little weird.. I love to gift the older child (as well)..
especially when it’s a first birthday for the 2nd one 😆 So I'm making this little crochet vest/jacket for the older grand daughter here today.
I sneak-peeked
into the “To-do” list of my friend’s pins and have chosen one of her pins ;)
Sneaaaky, right? But I do hope she appreciates the sneakiness too 😉
Thank you for joining me.
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Once again,
this is not my pattern but just my notes when I make my own exclusive
and individual project. I have the
permission of the lovely Martina, who has designed this project (but does
not have a write up for it) to write my notes for this lovely autumn vest
You can make
this vest for any size, using any yarn with a suitable crochet hook.
General yarn info :
Use any yarn with a suitable hook
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Skill level :
Intermediate.
Stitches used :
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8 dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk. One dc 3-tog made.
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s) sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet sp : Space
sl-st : Slip stitch st(s) : Stitch(es)
hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over ch : Chain
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-together
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog (as well as through the blog) for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.
Body sizing charts : Use
these charts for general body sizing here and here
Pattern Instructions : Using U.S terminology
For this lovely shelled bolero, I have been
inspired by this project here
This project does not have a write up, but I
have the permission of the lovely Martina, who has designed this, to write my
notes for her creation.
Please go to this blog to see all her lovely creations. This is the photograph that inspired me to create my autumn vest and headband / belt
We will work one back and 2 fronts for our
little bolero.
We work bottom up – starting at the waist (or
whatever length you want the bolero) and work our way up to the shoulders
PART 1 : BACK
Make
one piece
The stitch count for both back and front is the
same.
Our stitch count is in multiples of 6 + 1.
Start Row 1 : with fsc in multiples of 6 + 1 for half
the waist measure
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st
fsc ;
(ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;
ch 3, sc in the same
fsc) ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ;
rep
(to) once* ;
rep *to* till the last 3 fsc ;
sk next 2 fsc, ch 1, dc in the last
fsc. Turn.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Row 3 : sc in the 1st
dc ;
*ch 3, sc in the ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next dc, (sc
in the next dc ; ch 2, sc in the same dc)* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ;
ch 3, sc in the last
dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st
sc ;
*ch 1, (sc ; ch 3, sc) all in the next sc ;
ch
1, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ;
ch 1, dc in the last
sc. Turn.
.. and that’s our pattern D..O..N..E !
Rep Rows 3 and 4 till you reach the armhole,
ending with Row 3.
We will work a small decrease at that point
before we continue on for the shoulders.
Carry on then.. and we’ll meet back shortly.
Armhole Decrease Row :
sl-st past the 1st dc ; 1st ch-3 sp ; the 1st
3-dc set and into the next ch-3 sp ;
sc in the same ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sk next dc, (sc in the next dc ; ch 2, sc
in the same dc) ;
ch 3, sc in the ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till the 2nd last ch-3 sp
from end ;
sc in this 2nd last ch-3 sp. Turn.
We have finished decrease.
We will now continue the pattern all the way
up to the shoulders.
We just worked Row 2 of our pattern, so continue
now with Row 3 next and then work rep of Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the
shoulder.
PART 2 : FRONT
Make
two pieces
The photograph above is the designer's original - not mine.
As she has used a solid colour, her stitch shows up better than mine does in variegated, and so I share her creation with you.
The stitch count is the same as for the back,
but you will work .
Our stitch count is in multiples of 6 + 1
Start Row 1 : with fsc in multiples of 6 + 1 for half
of back measure
Row 2 : dc in the 1st
fsc ;
(ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, sc in the next fsc ;
ch 3, sc in the same
fsc) ;
*ch 1, sk next 2 fsc, 3 dc in the next fsc ;
rep
(to) once* ;
rep *to* till the last 3 fsc ;
sk next 2 fsc, ch 1, dc in the last
fsc. Turn.
Row 3 : sc in the 1st
dc ;
*ch 3, sc in the ch-3 sp ;
ch 3, sk next dc, (sc
in the next dc ; ch 2, sc in the same dc)* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ;
ch 3, sc in the last
dc. Turn.
Row 4 : dc in the 1st
sc ;
*ch 1, (sc ; ch 3, sc) all in the next sc ;
ch
1, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ;
ch 1, dc in the last
sc. Turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 till you reach the armhole /
neckline, ending with Row 3.
Carry on then.. and we’ll meet back shortly.
Armhole Decrease Row :
sl-st past the 1st dc ; 1st ch-3 sp ; the 1st
3-dc set and into the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the same ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, sk next dc, (sc in the next dc ; ch 2, sc
in the same dc) ;
ch 3, sc in the ch-3 sp* ;
rep *to* till the 2nd last ch-3 sp
from end ; sc in this 2nd last ch-3 sp. Turn.
We just worked Row 2 of our pattern, so continue
now with Row 3 next and then work rep of Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the
neckline decrease point.
For neckline, we will decrease once, on the side
opposite from the armhole. When working on the neckline point, check the width
you’d need for the shoulder. As we are
only going to decrease once, ensure that when you have decreased, you have the
shoulder width.
Also remember that we are working a small
border, which will add to the width of shoulder (both armhole and neck sides).
Neckline Decrease Row :
sl-st past the 1st dc and
into the 1st ch-3 sp ;
sc in the 1st ch-3 sp ;
*ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ;
ch 1, (sc ; ch
3, sc) all in the next sc* ;
rep *to* till the last dc ;
ch 1, dc in the last
sc. Turn.
We just worked Row 3 of our pattern, so continue
now with rep of Rows 2 & 3 till you reach the shoulder level.
Once you reach the shoulder, fasten off.
Rep all these instructions for the other side of
the front as well.
Once you are done with both the fronts and one
back, attach the shoulder straps and the sides.
We will then work a small border all around the
front and back lapels, in one continuous move.
We will work the same border around the sleeve openings as well
(armholes).
Right then, let’s get on with it and we’ll meet
shortly.
PART 3 : BORDER
Once we have finished attaching the sides and
shoulders, we are ready to work the lovely shelled border.
Before we start, let’s run a round of sc all
around.
Remember the thumb rule, to work 1 sc in each sc
; 1 sc in each ch-1 sp ; and 2 sc in each horizontal bar of each dc all around.
Our stitch count for our border is in multiples
of 6
We will work a 5-dc shell all around, and work 9
dc in each corner.
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Border round : sc
in the 1st sc ;
(sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc ; sk next 2
sc, sc in the next sc) ;
*rep (to) till next corner ; work 9 dc in the
corner ;
then work (to) till the next corner* ;
rep *to* all around and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
PART 4 : FLORAL HEADBAND / BELT
and this is the designer's original photograph
This cute accessory can be used as either a
headband or a belt.
We make a few tiny
flower motifs, and then attach it on to a fsc chain.
FLOWER MOTIF PATTERN
There are two ways to make this little
flower.
METHOD 1 : EASY
Start Round 1 :
with a magic circle and 5 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st and pull lightly to close.
Round 2 : (sc , ch 2
, 3 dc , ch 2, sc) all in the 1st sc ;
and in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
METHOD 2 : SLIGHTLY TOUGHER
Start Round 1 :
with a magic circle and work (sc , ch 2 , 3 dc , ch 2) x 6 times, all in that
circle ; sc and join with a sl-st and pull lightly to close.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
FINISHING
a) Decide
what you are making this into and accordingly measure the round head size (for
headband) or round waist (for belt)
b) Work
a fsc chain for the measurement you just took
c) Turn
and work a sl-st or sc in each st all the way back to the start to thicken and
keep your belt/headband firm.
d) Fasten
off and weave in ends
e) Using
an embroidery needle, neatly attach on your flowers onto the headband / belt
f) Add
in a small pearl bead in the centre of each flower, if desired.
g) Add
a small flower at the end of the fsc chain, using the same pattern, if desired
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right
here for more freebie patterns
Please remember to credit my blog AND link the
designer’s blog when you make your own project and show off on social
media. Thanks.
If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.
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Have a great day and see you soon.
Here are some of my other creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
and here are a few skirt patterns that you can use your belt for..
Here are some of my tops
Here are some of my bolero / jacket / vest creations. Have fun with these free patterns too
Here is a list of my earlier miscellaneous home use projects. Enjoy
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