Sweet Nothings Crochet: SARI BLOUSE

SARI BLOUSE

With all the varied creations I’ve made over the year, an Indian sari blouse was on the cards for a long time – and eventually I’ve decided to see if I can make one of these. I have not found a pattern or chart for this, so am going to make something simple and plain and see how this works out… before I add a pattern (hopefully) in my next creation.

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Materials used : Today I’ve used bout 100 gms of our Indian Red Rose metallic knitting cotton yarn, with a 3 mm crochet hook to make a Size 34" chest sari blouse.

For Indians : I bought this yarn at Crawford Market, Mumbai, but I think +Pradhan Stores can procure this for you too. I've then had this lined professionally.

Abbreviations used :

sc : single crochet dc : Double crochet

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot. https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot. https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Foundation Single Crochet : fsc : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this video https://youtu.be/mcT85fwh4mA

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Whipstitch to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the whipstitch at https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the embroidery needle and whipstitch to get an invisible join at https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : Here’s a quick tutorial on how to join using the single crochet at https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today. We will start from the base of the sari blouse and then work up to the shoulders. We will do the same pattern for the front and back of top, and then join the sides and shoulders.

We start with a fdc and at the waist. We will work till the armhole, then shape the armhole and work till the neckline and shoulder.

Now after we’re done with this, we will work a small border at the base of the blouse, arms and neckline. Neat, right? Let’s get started

Now before you pick up your hooks, a few decisions need to be made.

Decide if you’re keeping this a front open or back (I’ve written it for back open, as that’s the rage these days). If you decide on front open, no biggie – you just work two fronts and one back piece per pattern.

Decide on how deep you want your neckline and whether or not you want sleeves.

The instructions are written for a back open. The pattern is the same for front and back, and after you’ve worked the front, the back (two pieces) seem easy enough.

As you may be making different stitch combinations, may I suggest that you keep a running log of what you’re working with – starting with the number of fdc.

So let’s get to it.

Front:

Our stitch count is in multiples of 7.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches. Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Start : with a fdc chain length in multiples of 7

(We are working our blouse from the bottom to the shoulders, so the length of this chain should equal half the round chest where the lowest part of the blouse will reach.).

Row 1 : dc in the 1^stfdc ; dc in each fdc till end. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Our “V”-st in this pattern is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) all in same st or ch-sp.

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

(sk next dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

*dc in the next 2 dc ; rep (to)* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; dc in the next 2 dc;

*dc in the next 2 dc ;

rep (to) once ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 6 - 7 : Rep Row 5 .

In the following row, we'll increase on both ends. Now in case you feel that you are happy with the slight increase that has been worked in thanks to the "V" st (which has 'invisibly' added a few stitches) and you have reached half the round bust / chest measure, you do not need to increase. You will then just carry on with pattern till you reach the armhole or neckline level and then follow the instructions there on.
Please note however that there will be a difference in the instructions (for you) due to the difference in the number of stitches (i.e as you have not increased) - but this does not change the pattern. You will just have to disregard the start and end number of stitches, but I'm sure you get that and can easily figure that bit out.

Row 8 : Increase Row : 2 dc in the 1^st dc ; dc in the next dc ;

(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

dc in the next 2 dc ;

*dc in the next 2 dc ;

rep (to) once ;

dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

2 dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 9 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ;

dc in the next 2 dc ;

*dc in the next 2 dc ;

rep (to) once ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 10 : Rep Row 8 .

Row 11 : dc in the 1^st 4 dc ;

(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

*dc in the next 2 dc ;

rep (to) once ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

Rep Row 11 (without increase) till your sari blouse reaches the neckline / armhole level

Note : Please check that the increases work for you. If you do not need the second increase, do not do that row, and continue without increase till armhole.

If, however, you need a further increase, then maybe you work the increases one after another, (i.e. without the non-increase row in between).

Now you also need to decide how ‘deep’ you want your neckline.

If that level is before your armhole level, then here’s what I’ve done.

Neckline decrease

So here's where your creativity comes in.

The neckline has several options.
1. The simplest is to keep it a square neck. In this case, you will just work till the last st (marker that you have kept for the neckline) and work straight up to the shoulder.
2. If you want a "U" neck, then you will work a dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc (i.e the marked st and the one next to it. Depending on how sharp or shallow you want this "U" shape, I'd suggest working a two rows of dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts only on the neckline side and then continuing straight on to the shoulders.
3. If you want a "V" neck, then you will work all the way to the centre of the blouse, and then work dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts for 3 - 4 rows, till you get a neat "V" shape, ensuring that you keep the required number of stitches for the width of your shoulder.

Each change that you make will give you a different end product. Isn't that just neat?

So first we need to find the centre of your work - so fold your work in half and mark the centre. Decide how deep you wish your neckline (maybe two sets of 4 dc and one “V”-st, and mark these side points as well. These will be your new markers, and you’ll work till here, and then divide for the front.

We will then work in a row from the side of your sari blouse to the centre neckline (and back to the armhole side), till you reach the armhole level.

Finally if you have a neckline and armhole decrease at the same level, then you are going to be working halfway to the centre point (for the neckline) and back for the armhole, working both the armhole and neckline shaping at the same time.

Armhole decrease

So we will sl-st all the way past the first 8 sts = first 4 dc ;

the next 2 dc of the "V"-st, and ch-1 sp of the 1^st“V”-st ;

and sl-st in the next dc,

*dc in the next dc ; dc in the next 4 dc ;

“V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;

rep *to* till the last 8 sts, (which will be the 1st dc of that last“V”-st) ;

dc in the 1^st dc of the last “V”-st (skipping all remaining sts till end). Turn.

Now assuming that your neckline decreases start at this row, we're going to work from the armhole to the neckline and back.

Decrease Row 1 : dc 2- tog over the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ;

*“V”-st in the next “V”-st ; dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* till 2 dc before the marker ;

dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st 2 dc ;

*“V”-st in the next “V”-st ; dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* till the end. Turn.

Decrease Row 3 : dc 2-tog over the 1^st 2 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

*”V”-st in the next “V”-st ; dc in the next 4 dc* ;

rep *to* till 2 dc before the marker ;

dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 4 : Rep Row 2.

Yet again, you need to figure out if you’re good with the curve of the armhole. If you want a deeper armhole, then repeat the Decrease Row 3 once more.

If you are OK with the curve, then work without decrease repeating Row 2 , till your sari blouse reaches the shoulder point.

Fasten off and weave in ends when you reach the shoulder level.

Re-attach your yarn for the second side of the front, and then work that side to mirror whatever you have worked in this other side.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Front of blouse completed. Great job!

BACK

The pattern for the back is similar to the front.

We will be making two halves, so we start with half the number of fdc that you started the front with.

Our pattern repeat is still 7.

However, as we need a small button placket, we will add 2 fdc on each side.

So for the back, our pattern repeat is 7 + 2

Start : with a fdc chain length of 7 + 2 (which equals half front just made).

Row 1 : dc in the 1^stfdc ; dc in each fdc till end. Turn.

So this side will be the centre back, and the extra 2 sts will be worked at this end.

Your armhole then, will be at the other end of this row.

Row 2 : dc in the 1^st3 dc ;

(ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc ) ;

rep (to) till end. Turn.

Row 3 : dc in the 1^st dc ;

(dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;

rep (to) till last 3 dc ;

dc in the last 3 dc. Turn.

Our “V”-st in this pattern is (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc)

Row 4 : dc in the 1^st4 dc ;

(sk next dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc) ;

*dc in the next 2 dc ;

rep (to)* ;

rep *to* till end. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1^stdc ;

(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

*dc in the next 2 dc ;

rep (to) once ;

dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

Row 6 : Rep Row 4.

Decision time again. Decide how deep you want your back neck and depending on that, you will work the shape accordingly. If you decide to make a “U” neck as we have for the front, then you will do the decreases as you have for the front.
If you want a full closed back, then work all the way in pattern to the shoulders.

I have decided to work a square back, and will be working this pattern accordingly. So for my back neckline, I’ve decided to work the pattern till the same “V”-st that I have worked in front (wonder if this makes sense?) but I hope that the photo below makes more sense.

Row 7: Rep Row 5.

Row 8 : Increase Row : dc in the 1^st4 dc ;

(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

*dc in the next 2 dc ;

rep (to) once ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

2 dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 9 : dc in the 1^st 3 dc ;

(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

*dc in the next 2 dc ;

rep (to) once ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

dc in the last dc. Turn.

Row 10 : Rep Row 8 .

Row 11 : dc in the 1^st 4 dc ;

(“V”-st in the next “V”-st) ; dc in the next 2 dc ;

*dc in the next 2 dc ;

rep (to) once ; dc in the next 2 dc* ;

rep *to* till end ;

dc in the last 2 dc. Turn.

Rep Row 11 (without increase) till your sari blouse reaches the neckline / armhole level

Finishing :

Fasten off and weave in ends. Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been yet another great project .. and so different from the others we’ve worked on together.. and once again, totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed !

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