Row 4 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (sk next dc, “V”-st in the next dc ; sk next dc, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
In the following row, we'll increase on both ends. Now in case you feel that you are happy with the slight increase that has been worked in thanks to the "V" st (which has 'invisibly' added a few stitches) and you have reached half the round bust / chest measure, you do not need to increase. You will then just carry on with pattern till you reach the armhole or neckline level and then follow the instructions there on.
Please note however that there will be a difference in the instructions (for you) due to the difference in the number of stitches (i.e as you have not increased) - but this does not change the pattern. You will just have to disregard the start and end number of stitches, but I'm sure you get that and can easily figure that bit out.
1. The simplest is to keep it a square neck. In this case, you will just work till the last st (marker that you have kept for the neckline) and work straight up to the shoulder.
2. If you want a "U" neck, then you will work a dc 2-tog over the last 2 dc (i.e the marked st and the one next to it. Depending on how sharp or shallow you want this "U" shape, I'd suggest working a two rows of dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts only on the neckline side and then continuing straight on to the shoulders.
3. If you want a "V" neck, then you will work all the way to the centre of the blouse, and then work dc 2-tog over the last 2 sts for 3 - 4 rows, till you get a neat "V" shape, ensuring that you keep the required number of stitches for the width of your shoulder.
Each change that you make will give you a different end product. Isn't that just neat?
Now assuming that your neckline decreases start at this row, we're going to work from the armhole to the neckline and back.
Re-attach your yarn for the second side of the front, and then work that side to mirror whatever you have worked in this other side.
If you want a full closed back, then work all the way in pattern to the shoulders.