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Tuesday, 8 March 2016

SUCHI’s lil SKIRT






SUCHI’s lil SKIRT

I was recently gifted this really lovely cotton yarn and I thought it would be just perfect if I could make something and gift it back.  Getting just the right pattern that would do yarn justice and reduce wastage is always a challenge, and I’m hoping my choice here suffices. J

As I work on this pattern, I’ve written down my notes that I share with you.



Materials used : Today I’ve used a really lovely combination of one ball of Aunt Lydia’’s Crochet 10 100% cotton & about a ball of Indian locally available Red Rose knitting cotton with a 3 mm crochet hook.



For Indians : Our Indian Red rose or Anchor knitting cotton yarns will be the same *thickness* as the yarns I’ve used.  I’d say I’ve used just over 100 gms of yarn.

Skill level : Intermediate.

Size made : I have made this for a 2  yr old. 

Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet                                   dc : Double crochet
ch : chain                                                                      ch-sp : chain space
sp : space                                                                      rep : Repeat
dc 3-tog : Double Crochet 3-together
fpdc : Front post double crochet
bpdc : Back post double crochet

Stitches used :

fdc : Foundation Double Crochet : This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double crochet stitches.  Thismakes your whole project neat and even..in a way that you need to do once, to agree!  If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder why you never used this start before !

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row.  Do take a look at this self explanatory super video http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.

How to crochet the treble / triple 3-together (trc 3-tog) : If you’ve worked a dc 3-tog, then this is a lot like that, just that you work it with a trc.
*yo two times, insert hk into st ; yo and pull up a lp ; [yo, draw through 2 lps] ; rep [to] once ; rep *to* 2 more times ; yo and draw through all 4 lps on hk.  One trc 3-tog complete.
This video will also clarify https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6yhJC7idQM or

How to picot : (sc, ch 3, sl-st in same sc) all in the same st or ch-sp. 
Pl view instructions at http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-crochet-a-picot-stitch.html for a refresher of what a 3-ch picot is.

Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.  We start at the waist of our skirt and work down. I will be giving instructions as if we’re all working in rounds. 

 I’ve made this for a two year old slender girl, but this pattern is so lovely that one can make it in any size.. all the way through to adults, I’d say.
As always, I will be offering you lots of choices and links, so may I suggest that you please read through it all before you make decisions, to avoid ripping n frogging. Cheers.

Right then.. first we need to measure the waist and hips of the little kid we’re working this skirt for, and then we will work that first row with the hip measurement (unless the difference between the two is too high). In case the difference is too high, may I suggest one of two options :
Work with the hip measurements and then add either an elastic around the top or add loops so that you can loop in a belt to cinch it ; or
Ensure you work in a gradual increase by adding 2 dc’s in the 1st st for the first few rows on either ends, so that you get the width needed for hips.J


If you are working a skirt for someone who has a big difference between hip and waist measurements, and are going to do the increase gradually, please note that you will be working in rows, and should then add 3 dc each end.  Working in rows will mean that you are going to work two halves separately for a bit, add in the 2 dc at each end and give it the shape desired, then join the sides when you feel that you have a measure that will go easily around hips, and then work the scalloped / shelled frilly bits in rounds.

Finally, you could also work just the first few rows back and forth (so you will need to add those extra sts for the back placket addition as well) and then join up after a few inches and work in rounds.

While I’ve made this skirt for a child, you can actually make this for an adult as well, as long as you’re ready for some calculations and ready to read through this long-winded blog J

And here are a few handy charts for (general) kid body size measures

Pattern repeat given below is for working in rounds

Our pattern repeat is 14. 

Part 1 :

Start Round 1 : with fdc needed for round waist / hip measure in multiples of 14. Join with a sl-st to the 1st fdc.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st fdc ; dc in each fdc till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.
dc in the 1st fdc ; dc in each fdc till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in each dc till end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

Now here’s the beauty of this pattern , because right from the start your creativity can come to play.  We will be repeating Round 3 for a bit, but it’s here that you can decide how long you want to make it.  So you can either work this plain dc set all the way from the waist to the hips, or you can work just a few rows of plain dc and then start on the shelled / scalloped pattern right off.  Just in altering the number of scalloped rounds you have will make it a totally different looking skirt.. now isn’t that just fabulous.

So continue the repeat till your dc portion is the length you want. We will make a ‘holey’ row for the last one, so let’s get that done.

Last Round : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, sk next dc, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) all around ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.





Part 2 :

Frill Pattern Instructions
The frill instructions stay the same for each layer. 

Round 1 : dc in the 1st dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc ; 
*ch 5, sk next two ch-1 sps and dc ; sc in the next dc ; ch 5, sk next two ch-1 sps and dc , 
[dc in the next dc ; dc in the next ch-1 sp ; dc in the next dc] ; 
ch 1, sk next ch-1 sp, rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around ; ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 
*(ch 3, sc in the next ch-5 sps ; ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 3, dc in the nexxt 3 dc) ; 
ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around, ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 
*(ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next ch-3 sps ; ch 4, sk next ch-3 sp, dc in the next 3 dc) ; 
ch 5, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around, ch 5 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, we will use a “V”-st in the ch-5 sp.  Our “V-st is [dc ; ch 3, dc in the same ch-sp]

Round 4 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 
*(ch 2, sc in the next ch-4 sps ; ch 2, sk next sc , sc in the next ch-4 sp) ; ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc ; 
[ch 2, “V”-st in the next ch-5 sp] ; ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around, ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 
*(ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-2 sps ; ch 3, sk next sc , dc in the next 3 dc) ; 
ch 2, 7 dc in the next ch-3 sp ; ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around, ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : dc in the 1st 3 dc ; 
*(ch 1, sk next two ch-3 sps and sc, dc in the next 3 dc) ; ch 2, dc in the next dc ; 
[ch 1, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 5 times ; ch 2, dc in the next 3 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around, ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, we will use a dc 2-tog as well as the trc 3-tog.
We will also use our ch-3 picot.
Check “stitches used” at the top of the blog for a “how to”.

Round 7 : dc 2-tog over the 1st 2 dc ; 
*(sk next 2 dc and ch-sp, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc) ; 
ch 2, sk next dc , trc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp ; 
[ch 2 + picot + ch 2, sk next dc , trc 3-tog in the next ch-2 sp] ; 
rep [to] 4 times ; ch 2, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc* ; 
rep *to* all around, ch 3 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.




We’ve done with one round of scallops and to work the next set, we will need to work a set of (dc ; ch 1, dc) spaces all around.
So this set of (to) is also a regular repeat for each set, and each set is worked under the scallops just worked.

Part 3 :

Re-attach your yarn to any dc from the Last Round of Part 1.
This first round will be a little tricky, and all rounds after this will be easy-peasy. We will need to work this first set of dc’s around the post, but we’re not really working post stitches.

The second thing that we’re doing here is adding a few stitches so that there will be more scallops in the next round.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) all around ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 2 : Increase round : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ; rep (to) all around ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Ensure that at you have dc in multiples of 7 or better still, count all  your dc and ch-1 sps and ensure that you have sts in multiples of 14, which is our pattern repeat.

Calculations :  So how do you decide how many multiples you need for the second round.  Well, Elementary my dear Watson (as Sherlock would say?)
So every set of 14 sts gives you one scallop.  So say you started with 140 sts, you should have 10 scallops on that first round.  So if you want 14 scallops, you will need ( 14 x 14 = 196 sts ).
196 sts means dc + ch-1 sps combined. 

So yet again, I have offered you a decision and choices for your creativity.  Enjoy.

Continue increasing till you have stitches as per the calculations above, and then work without any further increase till you have a total of 7 rounds.

You will then work one set of scallops / frills – so instructions of Part 2, Rounds 1 – 7.

Rep Part 3 and Part 2 till your skirt is of the length desired, ending with Part 2.



  
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Give yourself a big pat on the back as this one has really been a great project – but totally worth it, I’m sure you’ll agree.

So if the skirt gets short for your lil baby girl, but her waist size still fits, then just add one round of frills, and voila! you have yourself a new skirt.. so howzatt for a last idea before we say good bye J

And that’s done.. yet another project brilliantly executed ! J

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did..come back right here for more freebie patterns

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

I have a few lil girl’s clothes already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J

Oh and I do have some skirt patterns too.. for young ladies.. so do visit my blog for those.