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Saturday, 9 August 2014

STUNNING DRESS





STUNNING DRESS DE-MYSTIFIED

This is just an explanation of what I’ve done with the pattern for this dress.  This original creation has been thought out in detail by some other genius, and I take absolutely no credit for it.  However, the original stunner is written in Russian(?) and after going through the chart, this is how I made the dress – so I thought I’d just explain it out here.

I’ve cut – pasted the original pattern chart below, and then added my notes 

This dress is worked in two parts – we start with the yoke, which is from just under the armhole to the shoulders, and the neck is a squared one. 

For the frilly lower part of the dress, we reattach to the first start line, and continue downwards.

Useful link  for how to measure children http://www.leenas.com/English/measure_children.html and if you want to figure out how to increase/decrease this square neckline, check this out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuZOjy1WfDM

Materials used : 4-ply baby wool from Woolcraft Baby Care, with a 4 mm (US 6 , G) crochet hook.  ~ 1.6 skeins , 160 gms

Note : I found this yarn is almost similar to the Indian Oswal 4-ply regular yarn.

Gauge : Yoke : 2 dc rows x 5.5 dc stitches across = 1”  ; Skirt : 2 shells (rows) x 1 shell (across) = 1”

I’ve made this dress for a Size 28-30 chest, and started with (19 sts x 3 sides) + (9 sts x 2 for back) = 75 fsc, as per the chart given below.  In the chart below, the ‘circles’ represent ch and the other symbol is for dc.

This pattern has not been tested after I’ve written it down.

Please note however, that I’ve substituted the start ch line with fsc.

fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, pl view the superb video by Tamara Kelly at this link below http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

                                                                             
So start with 75 fsc for Size 23 - 24 chest (which is what I used for this dress above), and I’ve found that starting with 56 fsc worked for a Size 20 chest.

For start with 75 fsc : ch 2 in 1st fsc (counts as 1st dc), followed by dc in the next 7 fsc, 2 dc in the next fsc ;
*ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in the next 17 fsc, 2 dc in next fsc* ; 
rep from * to * twice till last 9 fsc ; 
ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in each fsc till end.  Turn. (8 sts increased)

Row 2 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) ; 
rep from (to)  4 times ; dc in ch-2 sp (at corner), ch 2, dc in ch-sp ; 
*dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc ; rep from (to) 9 times, dc in next dc, ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; rep from (to) 5 times till end. Turn.

Row 3 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) ; rep from (to) 4 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2 ; *2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 12 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch-2* ; rep from *to* twice ; 2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 5 times, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 five times = yoke of ~ 5” and width of 11 – 11.5”.

For start with 56 fsc : ch 2 in 1st fsc (counts as 1st dc), 
followed by dc in the next 5 fsc, 2 dc in the next fsc ; 
*ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in the next 13 fsc, 2 dc in next fsc* ; 
rep from * to * twice till last 7 fsc ; ch 2, 2 dc in next fsc, dc in each fsc till end.  Turn. (8 sts increased)

Row 2 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) ; 
rep from (to)  3 times ; dc in ch-2 sp (at corner), ch 2, dc in ch-sp ; 
*dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc ; rep from (to) 6 times, dc in next dc, ch-1, dc in next dc ; ch 2* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; rep from (to) 3 times till end. Turn.

Row 3 : ch 2, (dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep from (to) 3 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2 ; 
*2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 10 times, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, ch-2* ; 
rep from *to* twice ; 2 dc in ch-2 sp, rep from (to) 4 times, dc in last 2 dc. Turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 five times = yoke of length ~ 3.75 - 4” and width of 10”.

After completion of yoke and before starting on the skirt portion, I did 2 rows of sc for placket along the back edge, ensuring I made the ‘eyeholes’ for my buttons on the left hand side, and then joined the placket at the bottom edge, so it is now easier to calculate stitches for start of skirt portion.  




Skirt :
In the chart below:  the ‘dots’ are ch sts ; the ‘lines’ are dc ; shells are (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc all in the same st or ch-sp) ; the ch (in pineapples) = ch-5
The pattern is an 8 stitch repeat, so ensure that you have a multiple of 8 stitches (in the last row of your yoke).  If short, add these stitches even between the back, centre front and two under arm (armhole) areas.

The first row of your skirt is a *dc in dc ; ch 1, sk next dc, shell in next dc ; ch 1, sk next dc , dc in next dc ; ch 1, sk next dc *. (Follow the self explanatory chart below )

I did 18 rows of shell (= 11”) before starting on the pineapple section, so my skirt portion was 17.5”, and dress from shoulder to bottom of border ~24.5”



Border : So I figured the lovely border is a 3-step combination. 
Row 1 : 5 dc in dc or ch-2 sp (of shell).  Turn
Row 2 : 2 dc in 1st dc, dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in last dc. Turn. (7 dc)
Row 3 : *picot , sc in next dc * ; rep from *to* 3 times, picot in last dc.

Picot : I made a ch-3 picot (which is ch 3, sl-st into the top of the dc)

Following the chart given, you either make this border st in the next shell st ch-2 sp, or sk two ch-5 sps and make this border st in the next dc all around.  This means that from a Row 3, you come down to a row two rows below, so your border slopes sideways (photo shows what I mean)

Photo for border 





Finishing: Pass a ribbon through the ch-sps of the last row of yoke, attach buttons, and weave in ends.  I suggest a light lining of light satin, light chiffon or net for the skirt portion to enhance beauty of dress.

I do hope this explanation is useful.  I plan on writing a similar explanation for all non-English patterns I encounter, and would love clarification of errors/typos.

I have used this link for the pattern and chart http://www.stranamam.ru/post/6101602/