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Friday, 3 June 2016

CHANDRA’S FRILLED DRESS




CHANDRA’S FRILLED DRESS

If you’re following my blogs, you’ll know that recently I met with some old friends, and after all the superb food, I was also gifted all of this lovely yarn.  The young lovely daughter of our host immediately dove in on some of this yarn and said “I love this” – so here’s what I’m making for her J

Thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together.

Inspired by the photo, here are my pattern notes 



Materials usedToday I’ve used a combination of yarns. I have used 100 gms of this Baby show cotton yarn , and just under 100 gms of Traditional 5 Plus knitting cotton with a 3 mm crochet hook ;
Optional : Stitch marker


  
For Indians : The Baby show cotton yarn is a lot like our Indian Laura knitting cotton.  The Traditional 5 plus is a little thicker than our Anchor knitting cotton.
I’d suggest using Anchor knitting cotton for this project, if using cotton, else a good 3 or 4 ply acrylic will work too.. with a 3 or 3.5 mm crochet hook, depending on looseness / tension

Size made : Chest : 22” ; Length 24”

Difficulty level : Intermediate to Advanced level
The stitches used are regular ordinary ones – the combinations used are complicated.  This is not one of the projects that you can do watching T.V .. well, not for parts of it anyway.  But it’s a beauty, so come along.

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

How to do a picot stitch :A neat video link to refresh this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GGlzZZl3I8

There is a super pin that I found for sizing of neck / yokes for young kids at https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838234527/



Abbreviations used :

fsc : Foundation single crochet                            ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                  sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                            hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                    yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                          sc : Single crochet
trc : Treble / Triple crochet

So before we set off on our new creative journey, let’s take a quick look at what we’re creating here today.



We start with the yoke, which is worked like a square.  Two parts of this square will be the armhole sections, and the other two parts will make the front and back of the yoke.

As usual, here are your choices. You need to decide if you are using a button placket around the back, and if you are, you need to figure out how long that placket is going to be. If you are working it for the full length of the yoke, then you will work back and forth for the yoke.

If however, you want only a single button around the back, then you will work back and forth for the first few rows, join up and then work in rounds.

Now there is a link for a set of charts depending on age of child and I’d suggest we use that as a reference to start on our yoke.
However, we will only use that for the first row, and then we will move off into the pattern for this dress.

The yoke, on this dress, as you will see, has a simple dc section for the front and back of the yoke, and from the 2nd row of the yoke onward, we work a really lovely shelled pattern for the sleeves.

Once we complete the yoke, we will then work the skirt portion of the dress off two sides of this yoke, and the other two sides will be worked with a really cute sleeve pattern.

Now for the yoke, depending on what size chest you’re working with, please follow the really easy link for chest sizes (square yoke) given above.  
You will then calculate the pattern repeats given for the skirt, and work accordingly.

This one is going to be a bit troublesome to write out.. let’s hope we get it right .. of course that said, creativity and tweaks are what make each project individual and exclusive
J

Part I : Yoke





Start:  with fsc as per the chart given above for square yokes.  
The chart also gives the number of stitches per side. 
Please place markers to mark the four corners of your yoke.

We’re going to work in rows from the centre back so that there is an opening for the button placket.

Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc and each fsc till the 1st corner marker ; 
(2 dc in the next fsc ; ch 2,  2 dc in the next fsc) ; 
*dc in the next fsc and each fsc till the next corner marker ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* 2 times ; dc in each fsc till the end.  Turn.

Move markers to the ch-2 sp which will be our new corners.

Now let’s understand where our armholes are coming in. We started at the centre back, and then came to our 1st corner.  
The section between that 1st and 2nd corner will form the first armhole section.  
The next armhole section is between the 3rd and last corner.
So obviously, the section between our 2nd and 3rd markers is the front chest of the dress.  Got it?





Here’s also where this gets a little tricky just for this first row. 

1. We’re going to work ch-5 sps for the first part of our shelled pattern.  Now as we’re all working with different counts here, I am not going to be able to write this down exactly. I am just going to write down what is written per chart.
This calculation may not work for you. So what do you do? Well, I suggest that you count the number of dc you have on each side, and divide it equally such that you have an equal number of ch-5 sps. So what will differ is the number of sts that you sk in between the ch-5 sps.  The more sts between the ch-5 sps, the less the number of shells
2. For the front and back sections of the yoke, (if you look at the pattern / dress made), you will see that we are slowly increasing it by 1 dc at each end. This means that you must count each row for front and back sections of the yoke, ensuring that you are increasing it by 2 sts to get that pattern in.

Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the 1st marker ; 
(ch 5, sk next 4 dc, sc in the next dc) ; rep (to) till the 2nd marker ; 
dc in each dc till the 3rd marker ; rep (to) once ; dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Now remember that we’ve got to get that front and back shape .. and the shaping will only be at the armhole sides.. so at the end of each row, before you start on the shell pattern, you need to check that you have got the stitch count increased as needed.

In the following row, please note that the instructions are general.. and may not suit the number of ch-5 sps you’ve got exactly. So just ensure that the first ch-5 sp as well as the last ch-5 sp for the armhole (i.e the ones that are just after the front yoke and before the back part and vice-versa) have the 10 dc set on them.  That last ch-5 sp should not be empty – so if needed, rip back a row, and add a ch-5 sp in so that you get it to the required number. 
Unfortunately, I am unable to figure out a ‘formula’ for this bit – but this is the last hurdle for the sleeve pattern (fingers crossed J )

Row 3 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
2 dc in the last dc before the ch-5 sp ; 
(10 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp) ; 
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in each dc along the front of yoke till the last dc ; 
2 dc in that last dc ; rep (to) once ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in each dc till end.

Before you start on the next row, please place a marker on that 1st dc and the last dc of the ch-5 sp for each armhole side.  So you have two markers that show you the start and end dc for the armhole.

Row 4 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
2 dc in the last dc before the ch-5 sp ; 
(10 dc in the next ch-5 sp and in each ch-5 sp for the armhole) ; 
2 dc in the next dc ; dc in each dc along the front of yoke till the last dc ; 
2 dc in that last dc ; rep (to) once ; 2 dc in the next dc ; dc in each dc till end. Turn.

Row 5 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the 1st ch-5 sp ; 
2 dc in the 1st marker ;
*(ch 5, sk next 3 dc and 2 ch-1 sps, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ; 
rep (to) 2 times ; [ch 5, sk next 2 dc and sc, sc in the next ch-1 sp]* ; 
rep *to* till the next marker, 2 dc in the next dc ; 
dc in each dc till the next dc and 2 dc in that 3rd marker ; 
rep *to* till the last marker ; 2 dc in that last marker and dc in each dc till end.  Turn.

Rep Rows 4 and 5 three times ; adding three ch-5 sps followed by one large shell every two rows - till your yoke is of the length that you want, ending with a Row 5.
Note : For all the following Row 5 repeats, ensure that you skip 3 dc and two ch-1 sps, and also that you have three extra ch-5 sps from the last time you did this repeat and you’re going the right way.

Now once you’re done with your yoke, I’d suggest we work in rounds.  For that I’ve joined the two armholes at the 2 dc sts. 

Ensure that this section fits around the chest of the little child, else you could add  a few stitches around the armhole – as you can see in the original photograph.

If you are deciding to change colours, please re-attach new coloured yarn.
I’ve decided to start from the centre back.

Our pattern repeat for the skirt section is 9, so ensure you have a multiple of 8, or tweak it such that you get a multiple of 9   J



Skirt instructions :

Part 1 : Belt






We will be working on the other side of the first start fdc row for the skirt.  This first section is like a belt – and we will get the frilly portion thereafter.

Round 1 : sc in the 1stfdc ; ch 1, sc in the next fdc ; 
*sk next 3 fdc, 7 dc in the next fdc ; sk next 3 fdc , sc in the next fdc ; 
ch 1, sc in the next fdc*; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following row, we’ll use a dc 2-tog. Please check under “stitches used” for a ‘how-to’.

Round 2 : dc 2-tog in the 1stch-1 sp ; 
(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) once ; 
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, sc in the next dc ; ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; rep (to) 2 times* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following row, we will work our 7 dc on top of the centre dc 2-tog set – i.e the 2nd dc 2-tog in this set of three dc 2-togs. 

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp and 7 dc on top of the centre dc 2-tog ; 
*sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 1, sk next sc and sc in the next ch-2 sp ; 
sk next dc 2-tog and 7 dc on the next dc 2-tog* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : sl-st into the 4th dc [of this 7-dc set] ; sc in that same dc ;  
*ch 2, sk next 3 dc, dc 2-tog in the next ch-1 sp ; 
(ch 2, dc 2-tog in the same ch-1 sp) ; rep (to) once*; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp and 7 dc on top of the centre dc 2-tog ; 
*sk next dc 2-tog, sc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 1, sk next sc and sc in the next ch-2 sp ; 
sk next dc 2-tog and 7 dc on the next dc 2-tog* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : Rep Round 2.

There is a flat belt-like portion on the pattern, but I am not quite sure what it’s doing there.. hmmm.. don’t quite like it.. so in my creation, I’m going to take that bit off.. and I’m going to work the frilly portion of the skirt right away.

Part 2 : Frilly skirt portion of the dress :



Just for convenience, I am going to re-start numbering for this skirt portion.

Our pattern repeat for this portion is 6.

Round 1 : Work sc in the stitches and ch-sps in multiples of 6 all around.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 2 : 5 dc in the 1st st ; 
*ch 2, sk next 2 st, sc in the next st ;  ch 2, sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in the next st* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (dc in the next dc ; ch 2, dc in the same  dc) ; 
dc in the next 2 dc ; 
*ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; rep (to) once ; dc in the next 2 dc* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.


Round 4 : sl-st into the 1st 2 dc ; 
(2 dc in the next dc ; 2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 2, 2 dc in the same ch-2 sp ; 2 dc in the next dc) ; 
*ch 1, sk next 4 dc, rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 2 dc ; 
(3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-2 sp) ; 
*sk next 4 dc, dc in the next 2 dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : sl-st into the 1st 2 dc ; dc in the next 3 dc ; 
(3 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-2 sp) ; 
*sk next 4 dc, dc in the next 3 dc ; rep (to) once* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following row, we will be in between 2 dc. Usually we work in / on a st, but in this row, we will work our trc or treble / triple crochet st between 2 dc.

Round 7 : sl-st into the 1stch-2 sp ; 
(2 dc in the next ch-2 sp ; ch 5, 2 dc in the same ch-2 sp) ; 
*ch 2, sk next 6 dc, trc in the space between this dc and the next dc ; rep (to) once* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following last round for this frill, we will do a lovely decorative round of picots. We will use a ch-3 picot.
Our picot is (ch 3, sl-st in the 3rd ch from hk)

Round 8 : sc in the 1st 2 dc ; 
[(sc + picot in the next ch-5 sp) ; rep (to) 4 times all in the same ch-5 sp] ; 
*sc in the next 2 dc ; ch 5, sk next trc, sc in the next 2 dc ; rep [to] once* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

And as you can see, we’ve finished one beautiful frilly round for our lovely dress.

For all the next sets of frills, we will follow the same 8 rounds.



We will, however, start our first round under this set of frills, and the first two rounds of will be ‘hidden’ under this set of frills.

So go ahead and re-attach your yarn from under these frills to the stitches of Row 2.
I have therefore attached my yarn from underneath to that first set of 5 dc.

Part 3 : Attachment of base for the next set of frills


Remember that our first row is being worked from under and around the first round of stitches.  So you will be basically using a sl-st to fix this first round of stitches on, and this will form the base for your second round of frills.

Just so that we don’t get confused with the earlier Round for the frills, I am going to label these rounds 1a – 4a

Round 1a : sl-st in the 1st st ; 
*ch 2, sl-st in the next sc ; ch 2, sl-st in the next 5-dc set* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We now have our base secure.  Now we will work a row of dc off this base Round.

Round 2a : dc in the 1st st ; 
*ch 2, dc in the next st* ; 
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3a – 7a : Rep Round 2.

We have now completed the base of the second row of frills.  You can now work the second set of frills off this base row, using Rounds 2 – 8 of Part 2 – Attachment of frills.

The only difference (which I am sure I need not even mention, but I’m going to anyway) is that when we work Round 2 for the next sets, we will just be working on each of the dc’s – as we already have our ready-made ch-2 sps separating them.. so one dc will have the 5 dc set, and the next dc will be the sc (of Round 2).  Sounds a bit confusing, but once you start working the next set, you will totally understand what I mean.
OK better still.. let me just write out that New Round 2 again..

New Round 2 : 5 dc in the 1stdc ; *ch 2,  sc in the next dc ;  ch 2, 5 dc in the next dc* ; rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st dc.

The following Rounds 3 – 8 are unchanged.




For the third set of frills, you will first do Part 3, which is the base for the attachment of frills (i.e Rounds 1a – 7a), followed by the New Round 2 (above) and then Rounds 3 – 8 from Part 2 – Attachment of frills. 

So continue this repeat for each set of frills till you have the length of dress needed.

Oh Phew.. I did tell you at the start that this one was going to be a really wordsy one, and a little confusing, but YAAY we got through it.. and all in all, I’m fantastically thrilled with the end result. Hope you have lots of fun creating your little dress too.

Oh just for kicks (and because I had matching beads), I’ve added beads on that last round with the picots – but then that’s what creativity is all about.. doing something just a little bit different. Have fun creating, and remember to tag me when you’ve made your beautiful dress.



Fasten off and weave in ends.. and Voila ! Yet another beautiful dress made for your young lady.

Ta da.. isn’t this just beautiful ?? J


I should also share a new idea I had for the button. I had these lovely little pink beads that I’d already used on that final row, and thought they’d look lovely as a button. So first I took a regular shirt /pant button and covered it with a little fabric.  I then sewed in the beads onto that little fabric top.  The base of the button was easy to attach on, as there is the fabric to hold on to.. and I think the end result is pretty amazing.. what do you think?


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I have a few girls dresses already made, and just in case you want a dekho at those free patterns … here you go  J