Monday, 25 June 2018

“FOR MY STAR” BABY LOVEY


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“FOR MY STAR” BABY LOVEY


This is a pretty unusual pattern for a blanket / lovey - a pattern that works up like a star with the really cute and popular cartoon character.  
I have used two different patterns to create this lovey.  
Yet again, one blog from Sweet Nothings Crochet that leads you to several ideas and patterns.

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Come along and let’s work on this exciting project together.

Materials used :Today I’ve used ~ 150gms of our local Indian Oswal Cashmilon 3-ply acrylic with a 3 mm crochet hook
For Non-Indians :I’d say you can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this lovely project. 

Skill level : Advanced

Size made : 10” x 10”


                  
InstructionsUsing U.S terminology

Get the free pattern for the really lovely lovey pattern at http://www.sewrella.com/the-cuddliest-crochet-bear-lovey/

With this project you get the star lovey and a cute cuddly teddy bear pattern.  
If you want to make the toy I have, then carry on reading my blog.

For now, go off to the link above and let’s make our lovey.  
If you decide you want a larger lovey, just go ahead and work more rounds.  
Have fun.. create and spread smiles
  

Donald duck
For this lovey stuff toy, I’ve decided to make the head n arms of my all-time favourite character Donald Duck.
I found this free pattern, which is not in English – and this is what I have done with it. 

Part 1 : Head
Let’s start with the Head, using white yarn.

Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 6 sc in that circle. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6)

Round 2 : 2 sc in each sc all around.
 Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12)

Round 3 : sc in the 1st sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18)

Round 4 : sc in the 1st 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)

Round 5 : sc in the 1st 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30)

Round 6 : sc in the 1st 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36)

Round 7 : sc in each sc all around.
 Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36)

Round 8 : sc in the 1st 5 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 5 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42)

Round 9 : sc in the 1st 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48)

Round 10 : sc in the 1st 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (54)

Round 11 : sc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54)

Round 12 : sc in the 1st 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60)

Round 13 : sc in the 1st 9 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc in the next 9 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (66)

Rounds 14 - 23 : sc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (66)

From the following round, we will work our decreases using a sc 2-tog.  Please check the top of this blog for a “how to” if needed.

Round 24 : sc in the 1st 9 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc in the next 9 sc ;  sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60)

Round 25 : sc in the 1st 8 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc in the next 8 sc ;  sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54)

Round 26 : sc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54)

Round 27 : sc in the 1st 7 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc in the next 7 sc ;  sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48)

Round 28 : sc in the 1st 6 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc in the next 6 sc ;  sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42)

Round 29 : sc in the 1st 5 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc in the next 5 sc ;  sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36)

Round 30 : sc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36)

Round 31 : sc in the 1st 4 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc in the next 4 sc ;  sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30)

Round 32 : sc in the 1st 3 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc in the next 3 sc ;  sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)


Part 2 : Beak
Using orange yarn 
The beak is divided into four parts – one upper beak portion, one lower beak portion and two side portions to give the “smile” to the beak.

Lower beak portion
For the beak, may I suggest that you start with fsc as we will work down the chain, and then turn around and work under the chain as well.  The fsc will give you lesser holes and a neater finish.

Start Row 1 : with 11 ch or 10 fsc.  Turn.

If you have started with ch 11, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd ch from hk. 
If you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.

Row / Round 2 : sc  in the 1st 9 fsc ; 3 sc in the next fsc ; 
Turn and work along the bottom of the fsc ;
sc in the next 9 fsc ; 3 fsc in the next fsc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)

From now on, we will work in rounds.
Round 3 : sc  in the 1st 10 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc ; 
sc in the next 10 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)

Round 4 : sc  in each sc all around.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)

In the following round, we will decrease, using the sc 2-tog again.
Round 5 : sc  in the 1st 10 sc ; (sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep (to) once ; 
sc in the next 10 fsc ; rep (to) 2 times.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Fasten off leaving a tail for attachment.  Fold in half (across the start fsc row) and join the gaping ends.


Upper beak portion
Once again, I urge you to start with fsc as we will work down the chain, and then turn around and work under the chain as well. 

Start Row 1 : with 9 ch or 8 fsc.  Turn.

If you have started with ch 9, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd ch from hk. 
If you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.

Row / Round 2 : sc  in the 1st 7 fsc ; 3 sc in the next fsc ; 
Turn and work along the bottom of the fsc ;
sc in the next 7 fsc ; 3 fsc in the next fsc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (20)

From now on, we will work in rounds.
Round 3 : sc  in the 1st 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc ; 
sc in the next 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)

Round 4 : sc  in the 1st 10 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc ; 
sc in the next 10 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)

Round 5 : sc  in each sc all around.  
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)

In the following round, we will decrease, using the sc 2-tog again.
Round 6 : sc  in the 1st 10 sc ; (sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep (to) once ; 
sc in the next 10 fsc ; rep (to) 2 times.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)

In the following row, we will work a set of 6 sts in the centre of the lip that will form a small bump.  In case your stitches do not align and you are not able to get this bump in the centre of the lip, please adjust as needed.  It does not matter which side has these 6 stitches – whichever side you work it on becomes the upper lip.  Easy enough, right?

Round 7 : sc  in the 1st 14 sc ; hdc in the next sc ;
dc in the next 4 sc ; hdc in the next sc ; sc in the last 4 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for attachment.

The side you have worked the last set of “different” stitches will form a small bump which will be the top of the beak.


Side portions
Make two
We will work on two extensions at the side of the beak – we will attach it to the top part of the beak that we have just made.
For this, find and place a marker for the side of the beak.

Where do you place marker? This is where we get creative ;)
The bump marks the centre top – so if you find the point that is at the side of the beak and evenly space away from the centre bump, you’re about right J

Start Row 1 : Re-attach your yarn at one of the markers.  2 sc in that marker ; 2 sc in the next st. Turn. (4)

Rows 2 - 9 : sc in all 4 sc.  Turn.  (4)

Once again we will use the sc 2-tog to decrease.
Row 10 : sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc.  Turn.  (2)
Fasten off leaving a tail for attachment.

Repeat all these instructions for the other side of the beak as well.


Beak attachment :
We have two parts for the beak – the top with the 2 side extensions and the bottom.

a)   Fold the side extensions and attach to form a roll
b)   Fold the top and bottom parts of the beak (along the start fsc row), and together
c)     Sew a little along the sides of the beak to reduce the gaping hole of the beak and give it a little more of a definite duck beak shape.


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Part 3 : Eyebrows
Using white

Start Row 1 : with 9 ch or 8 fsc.  Turn.

If you have started with ch 9, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd ch from hk. 
If you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.

Row 2 : sc  in the 1st 3 fsc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ; 3 sc in the last 3 fsc. Turn. (10) 

Row 3 : sc  in the all 10 sc. Turn. (10) 

Row 4 : sc  in the 1st 3 sc ; (sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc) ; rep (to) once ; sc in the last 3 sc. Turn. (8) 
Fasten off and leave a tail for attachment
Repeat instructions for the 2nd eyebrow.


Part 3A : Eyes
Use blue and black felt to create the eyes and keep them ready for attachment onto face.  I drew the eyes out on paper first, but then that’s obvious, isn’t it?



Part 4 : Arms
Make two - using white for arms and blue for sleeves

Start Row 1 : (using white) : with 5 ch or 4 fsc.  Turn.

If you have started with ch 5, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd ch from hk. 
If you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.
Once again we will work till the end of the fsc row, and then turn and work in the same stitches from under the row.  Got it?

Row / Round 2 : sc  in the 1st 3 fsc ; 3 sc in the next sc ;
Turn and work along the bottom of the fsc ;
sc in the next 3 fsc ;
3 sc in the last 3 fsc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12) 

Round 3 : sc  in the 1st 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc ;
(sc in the next 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc) ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16) 

Round 4 : sc  in the 1st 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
sc in the next 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc ;
sc in the last sc. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18) 

Round 5 : sc  in the 1st sc ; and in each sc all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18) 

Round 6 : sc  in the 1st 7 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
sc in the next 7 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the last sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16) 

Rounds 7 – 10 : sc  in the 1st sc ; and in each sc all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16) 

At this point, we will attach the blue yarn for the sleeves.  Fasten off white yarn.

Round 11 : (Using blue yarn) : sc  in the 1st sc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16) 

Now for the contrast yellow, we will attach our yellow yarn. 
Keep the blue yarn for the next round.

Round 12 :(Using yellow yarn) : sc  in the 1st sc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16) 

Fasten off yellow yarn.

Rounds 13 - 19 : (Using blue yarn) : sc  in the 1st sc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16) 

Fasten off and leave a tail for attachment.
Rep these instructions for the other arm as well.


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Part 5 : Collar
The collar flaps behind the head (back of head) - not seen in photo

Start (using blue) with 14 fsc or 15 chain.  Keeping the chain flat, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  Turn.  
If you have started with ch 15, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd ch from hk. 
If you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.

Row 1 : sc  in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till end. Turn. (14)

Rows 2 - 5 : sc  in the 1st sc and in each sc till end. Turn. (14)

Rows 6 - 11 : sc  in the 1st 3 sc. Turn. Leave the rest of the sts unworked. (3)

Row 12 : sc  in the 1st sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc. Turn. (2)

Row 13 : sc 2-tog over the 2 sc. Turn. (1)

Fasten off. Weave in ends for this side.

Re-attach yarn at the other end of Row 5, and rep instructions for Rows 6 – 14 for the 2nd side of the collar

We will now run a round of sc all around using yellow.  Fasten off blue yarn and attach yellow yarn.

As a thumb rule, we will work one sc in each st down the sides, and 3 sc for the two corners.

Row 14 : (Using yellow) sc in the 1st12 sts ; 3 sc in the corner st ; sc in the next 13 sts ; 3 sc in the corner st ; sc in the next 13 sts.  Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part 6 : Cap

Start (using blue) with 7 fsc or 8 chain.  Keeping the chain flat, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  Turn.
 If you have started with ch 8, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd ch from hk. 
If you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.

Once again we will work till the end of the fsc row, and then turn and work in the same stitches from under the row.

Row / Round 1 : sc  in the 1st 6 fsc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
Turn and work along the bottom of the fsc ;
sc in the next 6 fsc ;
2 sc in the last fsc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16) 

We will now work in rounds.

Round 2 : 2 sc  in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ;
2 sc in each of the next 3 sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ;
2 sc in each of the next 2 sc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (22) 

Round 3 : 2 sc  in the 1st sc ; sc in the next 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
(sc in the next sc ; 2 sc in the next sc);
rep (to) once ;
sc in the next 6 sc ;
[2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc] ;
rep [to] once ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28) 

Round 4 : sc  in the 1st 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
sc in the next 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
(sc in the next 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc);
rep (to) once ;
sc in the next 7 sc ;
[2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 2 sc] ;
2 sc in the last sc ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (34) 

Round 5 :  2 sc in the 1st sc ;
sc in the next 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
(sc in the next 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc);
rep (to) once ;
sc in the next 8 sc ;
[2 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 3 sc] ;
rep [to] once ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (40) 

Round 6 : sc in the 1st sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
sc in the next 13 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
sc in the next 3 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
sc in the next 13 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
sc in the last 2 sc ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36) 

We will now work up and down in rows.
Row 7 : sc in the 1st13 sc.  Turn. (13)

Row 8 : sc 2-tog over the 1st2 sc ; sc in the next 9 sc ;
sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc.  Turn. (11)

Rows 9 - 11 : sc in all the 11 sc.  Turn. (11)

Row 12 : sc 2-tog over the 1st2 sc ; sc in the next 7 sc ;
sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc.  Turn. (9)

Rows 13 - 15 : sc in all the 9 sc.  Turn. (9)

Row 16 : sc 2-tog over the 1st2 sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ;
sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc.  Turn. (7)

Row 17 : sc in all the 7 sc.  Turn. (7)

We will now work all around the cap and then work in rounds. 

Round 18 : sc in the 1st 2 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ;
Now turn your work and work along the side ;
sc in the next 12 sts ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sts ;
[sc in the next 2 sts ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sts] ;
(sc in the next 3 sts ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sts) ; 
rep (to) 3 times ;
rep [to] once ;
sc in the next 12 sts ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Row 19 : sc in each sc all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Row 20 : sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 9 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 9 sc) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Row 21 : sc in the 1st 4 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
(sc in the next 8 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep (to) 4 times ; sc in the last 4 sc 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st

Row 22 : sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 7 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 7 sc) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st

Row 23 : sc in the 1st2 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
(sc in the next 2 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st

Row 24 : sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 8 sc ;
(sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 8 sc) ;
rep (to) all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st

Row 25 - 26 : sc in each sc all around. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 7 : Amigurumi ball for stuffing : 

Instead of stuffing my toys directly with polyfill, I prefer to use a stocking net and stuff the net with the stuffing.  I then make a little ball (stitch up both ends of the stocking net) and use these balls for stuffing.  You can decide to use several small balls or one large ball for each piece.  So just measure out the length of stocking net you'd need by holding the net un-stretched against the feature (say the face).  Use a little more than the actual feature as once the net is stuffed, even with its stretch, it needs space for the stuffing.
Then sew in one side of the net and stuff it with your polyfill.  
Check that you have as much stuffing as you need, stretching out the  net slowly as you fill it up.  Once you have a nice neat ball, sew in the second edge as well. 
This ball ensures that all the polyfill stays inside and does not peep out through the crochet stitches during washing.

Part 8 : Finishing and assembly

1.        Stuff the head.  I used an amigurumi ball for stuffing. 
2.      Attach on the beak
3.      Sew on the eyes.  
4.     Attach the neck collar to the bottom of the head
5.      Attach the two arms  under the collar
6.     Now that your little Donald Duck head is ready, attach this onto the lovey as desired.
7.      Finally you could attach on a cute bow onto Donald Duck’s collar.  If you decide to do this, check my blog on Daisy duck for bow pattern.

Ta da ! One devastatingly cute








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