Friday, 11 August 2017

RACER BACK TOP


free crochet  racer back pattern

RACER BACK TOP


Racer backs are the new “IN” thing, and obviously, I must make one of these at least .. in my repertoire.. don’t you agree.   Obviously you think so too.. so thanks for joining me once again as we work on and discover this new pattern together. J

Do check my long Pinterest link for all the free patterns I’ve written up over the years right at the bottom of this blog.

And inspired by this photo, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.


Materials usedToday I’ve used ~ 150 gms of Indian Red Rose knitting cotton with a 2.5 mm crochet hook

For Indians : Our lovely Indian Anchor knitting cotton and White rose knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute.  I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you can get all of this with a easy mouse click on the top right hand side of this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)

For Non-Indians : The other international yarns I’ve used of this thickness are Milford Soft knitting cotton, DMC Petra knitting cotton, Aunt Lydia Cotton 10 and Hilaza Rustica Eclat knitting cottons.  Technically the yarn I’ve used would use a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook but I like the extra stretch that a larger hook gives a yarn.

Difficulty level : Intermediate Skill level. 

Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet : To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara Kelly at the link  http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fsc/

Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/ .  In case you are unhappy with this start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start.  However, all instructions are given assuming that you’re using this chainless dc start. 


How to join with single crochet : Check the links below :

How to join with whip stich : Check the links below :


Abbreviations used :  Using U.S Terminology

fsdc : Foundation double crochet                            ch : Chain
dc : Double crochet                                                  sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                                           hk : Hook
lp : Loop(s)                                                                    yo : Yarn Over
sk : Skip                                                                          sc : Single crochet

Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)

The pattern is not my own.  I have used the free pattern from DMC and this is the link.

My notes are only because of the difference in yarn and hook.

This pattern is worked from the bottom up.

free crochet racer back pattern

I find that the stitch count for this pattern is 22. 
I have started with 220 stitches (per pattern) and I have a first round of 39”.
(Edited to add : I hope that using the stitch count repeat will work.  Please do tell if you are adventurous enough to try, so that we can help others for whom the start of 220 does not work. Thanks)

By Round 8, after a few decreases (per pattern), I have a round of 33”

Round 10 seems to have a typo.  We are working in sets of 9-sts each, so the repeats would need to be in sets of 9.  Hence 2 sc in the next dc and dc in the next 9 dc will not work.  I worked 2 sc in the next dc and then dc in the next 8 dc.

Round 12 again I think has a slight error. 
In Round 11, we’ve got an 18-st set, so in Round 12, we should work in the 9th and 18th sts, I think. 
So rather than ch 6, sk 9 (I sk 8 and worked in the 9th st) ; and then I found that the next part worked (i.e ch 6, sk 8 and sl-st into the next st).

I guess if we marked the centre of each set and then worked in that, it would work too. 

I am not sure if I did it all right, as I am not happy that the 2nd set of triangles did not come in the centre, nor that the waves were properly aligned.  I know though, that when worn, this may not show – but .. hmmm

Front (from waist to shoulders)
I worked the instructions per designer, using only the centre 81 sts.  It did not work for me.  The shape is really good but I felt that there was too much shoulder and chest that would show through. 
I therefore ripped out and started again.  This time around, I have put in a template for the front and am going to map this, keeping the pattern in mind…(something I should have done from the start! Live n learn HAH!).  Basically I just re-attached my yarn further up the back and that way with the decreases it seemed to work better.
As I am starting wider off on the first row, I am changing the sc to hdc in the pattern for the front.
I also worked a dc 2-tog at the start and end of the dc row in between the 3 hdc (or sc) rows.  I think that is a minor typo as well… and the designer has worked a decrease on both the dc row as well as the middle sc rows.
Border (around armhole) :
There is a border running around the armhole & straps all around.  The pattern reads 6 dc shell border, but I couldn’t see an explanation for it.  So here’s what I have done.
I first ran a round of ch-2 sps evenly around ensuring I had an even number of spaces around.
I worked 2 dc in the 1st ch-2 sp and sc in the next sp.  Work this sequence all around and join with a sl-st.

Border (around the bottom) :
There is a lovely shelled border that we work after we finish the top, and we work this in a round.  I started with 220 (like the pattern said).  Now the stitch repeat given her is in multiples of 3.. and 220/3 is not an even number. 
So I worked the shell stitch every 5 sts which gives me an even end result.

Skipping 3 sts and working a shell in the 4th st also gives an even number of shells, but I found that the shells were too close – so chose the 5th st instead.

free crochet racer back top pattern

This is just a small thing – but if you want an even number of shells, please check that you get an even number when you divide the number of stitches you start with and the number of stitches you are skipping. 
This means that if you work shell in one st, and sk 4, you will work one shell every 5 sts.  So 5 is your stitch count. Got it?

In the final round of shells, I have opted to work 7 dc (as against 10 dc) in each ch-sp.. oh and I worked a ch-5 sp all around (as against a ch-7 sp).

I am thrilled that I got my first racer back done.. now to find a model to get this onto social media ;)

Do come back right here for more freebie patterns

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  

I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and link the original pattern link) when you make your own baby dress.  Thanks.

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Have a great day and see you soon. J

Here are some of my older creations.  Have fun with these free patterns too














































Monday, 7 August 2017

CUTE LIL SLING BAG

free crochet bag pattern

free crochet bag pattern

CUTE LIL SLING BAG


This is a really quick project for a friend’s grand daughter – the project itself will not take too long, methinks.. it’s the lining and the zipper that are going to take their toll on me ! LOL

I saw a set of photographs on the net, and am working off those to create this lil sling bag.  Here are my notes as I make my own project.

Materials used : A combination of different coloured polyester purse yarn in cones , with a 3.5 mm crochet hook
For Non-Indians : The polyester purse yarn is available only in India (to my knowledge). This yarn has a 4-ply or sport ply thickness.
You can make this project with any yarn and a hook that suits it.

Skill level : Intermediate. 

Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg
Chainless dc start : Instead of the usual start with ch 2 or ch 3,I’d like to introduce a lovely way of starting a double crochet row.  Do take a look at this self-explanatory super video
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start.  However, all instructions will be given assuming that you are using this chainless dc start.

dc 3-tog : Double crochet 3-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 3 times (4 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 3-tog made.

dc 2-tog : Double crochet 2-tog : [yo, insert hk in st or ch-sp, yo and pull up a lp ; yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times (3 lps on hk) ; yo, draw through all lps on hk.  One dc 2-tog made.

fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below. 
How to work the fpdc :  yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice.  One fpdc complete 


How to carry your yarn along when using more than one colour :  http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-carry-yarn-in-crochet.html


How to make a rounded cord for the handle : View the video link below for a really simple way to make a rounded cord handle for your handbag.  http://vimeo.com/88972371

How to make an I-cord : A neat way to make an I-cord in this video by June at http://www.planetjune.com/blog/how-to-crochet-an-i-cord/

How to line the bag : View the link below to see how to easily line your handbag. http://pattern-paradise.com/2014/06/12/tutorial-how-to-line-a-crocheted-bag/

How to add beads in crochet : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MbLCuyfv-M


Abbreviations used :  (Using U.S terminology)
lp(s) : Loop(s)                                                 sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet                                sp : Space                                 
sl-st : Slip stitch                                         ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)                                         hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over 
                                       

free crochet bag pattern


As usual, before we head off into our project, let’s take a quick look at what we’re working on today. 
For our lil' bag, we will work three rounds.  Two similar rounds will make up the front and the back of your bag, and the third round will become your flap.  Easy enough, right?

You can add beads into your project at any time.  I have not added in any beads, but here’s what I suggest (if you want to add beads in).  Add in your beads before you start your work, and also do a rough calculation of where you’d like them… then just add them on as you go.. else do what I have done several times, and *cheat* - add them in after you have done your project!
As always, please do add in more beads than you need or calculate for .. jus' in case. 

I am planning on using a lot of my stash up and using as many colours as I can find.  As you can work this project in one colour as well, I am just going to let the colour choice be part of your creative process.

Oh and here’s where I got this project from http://orgudantelmoda.com/tig-isi-yuvarlak-cicekli-canta-yapilisi/.  Go here for the designer’s photo tutorial.

Right then.. let’s now waste any more time.

Part 1 : Front & back of our bag
Make two

Free crochet bag pattern

Start with a magic circle and 12 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. Pull lightly to close the magic circle.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st sc ; (ch 1, dc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) all around ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

In the following round, we will use a dc 3-tog.  Please check the top of this blog for a “how to”, if needed.

Round 2 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; dc 3-tog in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;
(ch 2, dc 3-tog in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) all around ; ch 2 and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 3 : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ; 3 dc in the same 1st ch-2 sp ;
3 dc in the next ch-2 sp and in each ch-2 sp all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

In the following round, we will work a dc 2-tog.  Please check the top of this blog for a “how to”, if needed.

Round 4 : sl-st past the 1st dc ,
2 dc in the next dc (which is the centre dc of this 3-dc set) ;
*ch 1, dc 2-tog over the next 2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc in the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; 3 dc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;
3 dc in the next ch-1 sp and in each ch-1 sp all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(ch 1, sk next dc , dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
ch 1, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (36 dc)

Round 7 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; 2 sc in the same ch-1 sp ;
(sk next dc , 2 sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) all around ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (72 sc)

Round 8 : dc in the 1st dc ;
(2 dc in the next dc ; dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (108 dc)

Once again in the following round, we will work between dc and not in the dc
Round 9 : 2 dc in the sp between the 1st and 2nd dc ;
(sk next 2 dc , 2 dc in the sp between the last 2 dc and the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) all around ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.  (108 dc)
Fasten off.

At this point, I have a circle of 9” diameter which I think is just right for my project, so I am stopping now.

Go ahead to work on the 2nd half of the project.


Part 2 : Flap for the bag

free crochet bag pattern

For the flap, we will start with a flower at the centre, and then work the flap around the flower.

Start with a magic circle and 8 sc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc. Pull lightly to close the magic circle.

Round 1 : dc in the 1st sc ; (ch 1, dc in the next sc) ;
rep (to) all around ; ch 1 and join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

Round 2 : First round of flower petal : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ;
(hdc ; dc ; hdc) all in the  1st ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp and in each ch-1 sp all around ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st sc.

The next petal is worked over two rounds.
In the next round will be worked from under the earlier round, so we will work a front post stitch around the dc of Round 1, and making a preparatory round for the next round of petals.
To get to the dc on Round 1, work a ch 1 first, and this does not count as a stitch, and it will be hidden by the petal later, so don’t worry.

Round 3 : Second round of flower petal : ch 1 ;
fpdc around the dc of Round 1 ;
*ch 2, fpdc around the next dc of Round 1* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 2, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 4 : Second round of flower petal : sl-st into the 1st ch-2 sp ;
(hdc ; 3 dc ; hdc) all in the  1st ch-2 sp ;
rep (to) in the next ch-2 sp and in each ch-2 sp all around ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

The last petal is again worked over two rounds. 
This time we will work the fpdc around the dc of Round 3.

Round 5 : Third round of flower petal : ch 1 ;
fpdc around the dc of Round 3 ;
*ch 3, fpdc around the next dc of Round 1* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 3, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 6 : Third round of flower petal : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ;
( sc ; hdc ; 5 dc ; hdc ; sc) all in the  1st ch-2 sp ;
rep (to) in the next ch-3 sp and in each ch-3 sp all around ;
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

We have finished with the petals of our flower and we will start with the rest of our flap.  Once again, we will work the fpdc around the dc of Round 5.

Round 7 : ch 1 ; fpdc around the dc of Round 5 ;
*ch 5, fpdc around the next dc of Round 5* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 5, and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 8 : sl-st into the 1st ch-5 sp ; 9 dc in the same 1st ch-5 sp ;
9 dc in the next ch-6 sp and in each ch-5 sp all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Rounds 9 - 10 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 11 : dc in the 1st 2 dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next 2 dc) ;
rep (to) all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

Round 12 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp , 3 dc in the same 1st ch-1 sp ;
3 dc in the next ch-1 sp and in each ch-1 sp all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.

At this point, the flap has a diameter of 7” and I am going to stop now.  Just for contrast, I worked a round of sc all around to finish the flap.

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Part 3 : Finishing

free crochet bag pattern


To join the front and back, use one of the joining techniques given at the top of this blog.
If working with different coloured yarns, work with a contrast here, so that it looks like a pattern, while holding the bag together at the same time J

So to join the base of the bag, place your two (bag) circles down, and place 2 markers that will be the mark the opening on either side, and then you will join the two parts together.

Now that you have the lower part of the bag done, we can attach the flap.

Fold the flap just above the flower, and pin the lower part of the flap circle down along the back of the bag.  Then attach it down.

For the strap, use one of the methods given at the top of the blog. I have used two colours of the bag for the strap. 

What I have done is work an fsc chain for the length needed, and then work sl-st or sc down the fsc chain using the other colours.  Before starting the chain and at the end, I have left a small length of yarn, which becomes our tassel.

free crochet bag pattern

For the rest of the tassel, just decide on the length you want for the tassel, and then cut a length of the coloured yarn double that length.  So say you want the dangling tassel to be 4” total, you will cut a yarn of 8” length.  Holding all your tassels together, fold in half and run a bit of yarn through the centre of them all.  Once they are held together in a bundle, you can neatly attach them along the side of the bag
Use one of the methods given at the top of the blog to line and add a zipper to your bag as needed. 
Attach on a button and you’re ready to go. 
Oh, you could add a few beads after I completed the project and I love the end product.

We’re ready to show off this lovely creation too.

Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right here for more freebie patterns J

If you're visiting me here for the first time, and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail box.  
I’d also appreciate if you could credit this blog when you complete your project.

Check out my awesome pins on Pinterest at https://in.pinterest.com/shyamanivas/ 



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Have a great day and see you soon. J

You may want to take a look at some more beautiful and unusual bag / purse patterns.