Sweet Nothings Crochet

This lovely one-row pattern repeat for a child's collared short-sleeved jacket is one you should really try. This jacket can be made to any size, using any yarn with a suitable hook. I am using our (Indian) Oswal Cashmilon acrylic yarn with a 3.75 mm crochet hook.

I love this pattern so much that I've decided to make a beanie as well - so check this out. Oh here are two hooded jacket patterns here and here

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Inspired by this picture that I saw on some Pinterest board, which conveniently has a chart, here are my notes as I make my own project.
May I request you to please read through all my detailed instructions for each section. I take a lot of trouble in giving loads of information, so read along and make a great project. Cheers.

Materials used : Today I’ve used about 100 gm of Oswal Cashmilon acrylic 4-ply yarn with a 3.75 mm crochet hook.

For Indians : You could use Anchor , Red ros e or unbranded knitting cotton as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.

Size made : 0 - 3 months

You can make this to any size. Size only given for rough yarn estimation.

Abbreviations used : Using U.S terminology

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

fdc : Foundation double crochet

dc : Double crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);

[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Children’s sizing chart : http://www.childrenssizechart.com/

Here is a sizing chart for general neck sizing : here or here

Here is a sizing chart for general sizing : here or here or here

Instructions : Using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement. This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project.

Let’s as usual start with our quick analysis of what we’re going to do here today.

We will work 3 rectangles : one for back & 2 for front. We then work in the sleeves and finally work the collar. We can work in dc or hdc (depending on the thickness of yarn and the size you are working for). The pattern is worked from top to bottom (or vice-versa) for the length of the rectangle, and then we work the width of the rectangle needed.

The start row of our rectangle for the back & fronts will be the length of the jacket from shoulder to base and we work our pattern along the width of half chest measurement.

So for back left hand side is the start row and we work till we have half the chest measurement. The two fronts are half the back measurement.

Measurements needed :

1) Full length of jacket (from shoulder to base of jacket)

2) Full length of sleeve (from shoulder to wrist)

3) Round chest

4) Round armhole

There are five parts to this creation, so let's start.

I found this chart that really helped me get my measurements right

Check out this one , this one and this one too

PART 1 : BACK

Make one piece

You can work either in hdc or dc. I have worked in hdc.

Our stitch count is in multiples of 3 + 2.

Note : 1) If you decide to start with regular chain and work in hdc, start with chains in multiples of three + 3, and then turn around, and do your 1^st hdc in the 2nd ch from hk, and then hdc in each ch till end. You will then work Row 2.

2) If you decide to start with regular chain and work in dc, start with chains in multiples of three + 4, and then turn around, and do your 1^st dc in the 3^rd ch from hk, and then dc in each ch till end. You will then work Row 2.

Foundation double crochet (fdc) : https://youtu.be/hjNUYVvyU9k

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) : This is an easy way to start a row of hdc without the starting chain row.

Here is an easy video tutorial https://youtu.be/SEG2UCRfypA

Start Row 1 : with fhdc in multiples of 3 + 2 for the length of your jacket from shoulder to base of jacket . Turn.

Note : I started with 35 fhdc for my 0-3 month old

Remember that if you are using a heavier / thicker yarn, you will end up with a project for a slightly older child.

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Note : If you chose to work in dc, there's a video link above

Row 2 : hdc in the 1^st fhdc ;

*sk next fhdc, 2 hdc in the next fhdc* ;

rep *to* till end ; hdc in the last fhdc. Turn.

Row 3 : hdc in the 1^st st ;

*sk next st, 2 hdc in the next st* ;

rep *to* till end ; hdc in the last st. Turn.

and that's our pattern done !

Rep Row 3 till you have the width you need for the back.

Last row : hdc in the 1st st and in each st till end. Turn

Fasten off and weave in ends.

PART 2 : FRONT

Make two

For the fronts, we will do the same pattern as for the back. We will work half the width needed for front (or half whatever width you have worked for back)

Fasten off and leave a long tail to join.

Repeat this for the other side of the front as well.

If you’ve decided (as I have) to keep this sleeveless, then finish off with one round of sc all around the armhole , else continue onto Part 3 for sleeves

PART 3 : SLEEVES

Make two

For the sleeves, we will do the same pattern as for the back and fronts.

First join the front and back shoulder, leaving about 6 rows at the centre front side for a small front opening. We will work a placket in as well later. Then join the sides, leaving an armhole opening. We will then work the sleeves in rounds. Use one of the joining methods given below

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

Check out this chart for easy reference on sleeve sizing

Round 1 : Work a round of hdc all around the armhole opening, ensuring you have sts in multiples of 3. Remember to work the hdc evenly all around.

Note : In case you are making this for a girl and want a puffed sleeve, work extra sts in the shoulder area of the sleeve. This means that you work extra sts only around the centre top of the sleeve, but remember to keep the stitch count in mind. Instructions for puffed sleeve are after this set of instructions.

The pattern we use is the same as for the body of the jacket but we need to shape the sleeve a bit.

Row 2 : hdc in the 1^st hdc ;

*sk next hdc, 2 hdc in the next hdc* ;

rep *to* till end ; hdc in the last hdc. Turn.

Mark the centre st at the bottom of the armhole (the point where the armhole meets the side of the jacket). Place markers in the sts on either side of this marked st. Remove centre marker.

Row 3 : Decrease row

hdc in the 1^st st ;

*sk next st, 2 hdc in the next st* ;

rep *to* till 1st marked st ;

[hdc in that st ; sk next st, hdc in the next st] ;

rep [to] once (move markers to the new hdc sts) ;

rep *to* till last st

hdc in the last st. Turn.

Half double crochet 3-tog : hdc 3-tog : https://youtu.be/E-WbOP531a4

Row 4 : Decrease row

hdc in the 1^st st ;

*sk next st, 2 hdc in the next st* ;

rep *to* till 1st marked st ;

hdc 3-tog over the marked st and the next 2 sts (move markers) ;

rep *to* till last st

hdc in the last st. Turn.

Move marker to the 2 sts on either side of the hdc 3-tog

Row 5 : Decrease row

hdc in the 1^st st ;

*sk next st, 2 hdc in the next st* ;

rep *to* till 1st hdc 3-tog st ;

hdc in the marked st ;

[sk next st, hdc in the next st] ;

rep [to] once (move markers) ;

rep *to* till last st

hdc in the last st. Turn.

Row 6 : hdc in the 1^st st ;

*sk next st, 2 hdc in the next st* ;

rep *to* till 1st marked hdc st ;

hdc in the marked st and the next 2 hdc (remove markers) ;

rep *to* till last st

hdc in the last st. Turn.

Sleeve complete. You may want to run a round of sc all around.

In case you are working a puffed sleeve for a girl then you work the same pattern you have worked for the body of the jacket and work it for as long as you want the puffed sleeve.

In the last round, work in sc and add in elastic. This is the thin elastic that is used when stitching in. In case this does not work for you, then you can add in the slightly thicker elastic by sewing it in by hand. Note that the thicker elastic does catch on the baby's arm so the crochet version works better. Check the video below.

Working with elastic : https://youtu.be/T5Qc3q2N0ds

PART 4 : COLLAR

We have the body and the sleeves done with a neck opening. Let's start the collar

With the front facing you, re-attach yarn at the right placket corner.

Work 2 hdc in the corner st and then 1 hdc in each st all around till the other corner ; work 2 hdc in the 2nd corner st. Turn.

Note : Ensure that you have multiples of 3 + 2 when done. In case you need to add sts, add them in the centre back of jacket.

Now 5 rows in pattern for the collar. We're using the same pattern as we did for the body and sleeves - which you know very well by now. The only difference is that we will work 2 sts every time in the corner stitch. So our first and last st are 2 hdc in the same st. This gives the collar that diagonal shape.

There is one other thing to remember : IF you reach the end of the row and have 3 sts left : Work hdc in the 2nd last st and work 2 hdc in the last st. In the following row you will go back to pattern, starting with 2 hdc in the 1st st, working the pattern all the way to the end and then 2 hdc in the last st.

In some rows you will manage the pattern without a change, and in some rows you may need to add that hdc. Just remember the 2 hdc to start and end and work 5 rows for collar. Once you are finished you do not have to cut yarn, continue to work the placket.

PART 5 : FRONT PLACKETS

There are two ways to start the front placket

1) As mentioned above, when you finish working on the collar, do not cut yarn, but sl-st along the side of the collar till you reach the neck corner st where you can start working the placket neatly ;

2) In case working sl-st along the sides of collar is too tricky for you or you are almost at the end of your yarn anyway, then fasten off and re-attach your yarn at the corner of the neck to start one side of the placket.

Work hdc all the way down from the top of placket to the base, keeping count of how many sts you use (so you can replicate for the other side)

Then work a three more rows till you reach the top neckline and fasten off, weaving in ends.

Re-attach yarn for the second side and repeat for four rows.

Remember which side over laps for boys and girls and sew in press buttons accordingly.

IN CASE YOU ARE USING BUTTONS AND BUTTON HOLES :

The only difference here is that you need to pay attention to which side buttons are added (different for boys and girls) and work button holes in the other side of the placket. For girls buttons are on left side ; for boys buttons are on right side - so loops will be the opposite side - video below

To work the button holes, first decide how many buttons and what size of button you're using. Then work the side of placket that you will be attaching buttons onto so you can count sts between buttons. Once you have decided this, you need to work button holes on the other placket

placket detail showing collar finish and button holes

For the button hole side of placket :

1) work 1 hdc in the 1st st ; ch 2, sk next 2 sts, hdc in the next st (this is the 1st button hole). Work hdc in each st till the marked st (which is where you are going to place the next button) ; and work this all the way till the end of the placket.

2) Work hdc in each hdc and 2 hdc in each ch-2 sp all the way to the end.

3) Work hdc in each st till end. Fasten off

Another easy way to work this is to work loops on one side and button on the other

Once again decide on the buttons (size and placement) and work the placket pattern as given. In the last row we will work a button loop along one placket. For this, work hdc in the 1st st (neckline edge) ; ch 3, sl-st in the same 1st st (one button hole loop made) ; hdc in each st till the marked st (which is where you are going to place the next button) ; and then ch 3 and sl-st in the same st (next button hole loop made) ; repeat this till the end. Fasten off.

OPTIONAL IDEAS

The original idea was to use one solid color, but I decided to use two colors and using the exact same pattern, I just worked 2 rows per color and I loved this end result too.

How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

If you are working two rows at a time, then all you need to know is how to change colors seamlessly at the end of every second row.

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

But if you decide you want to change colors every other row, you will need to know how to carry your yarn with you and then this video helps.

The other idea in using 2 or more colors is by ensuring that you have a good color combo first (this is specially when you are trying to use up bits of yarn). Then you just work the pattern all the way till you finish one color and then attach the next one.

This pattern is very versatile.. and I've worked it with so many combinations.. mixing colors and having real fun.

These were some of the beanies I've made for a local charity

beanies made for a charity using the same jacket pattern

another idea for a baby jacket - a hooded jacket

and as mentioned before,I've used this similar construction to make this jacket here

Whatever pattern you decide, I can guarantee that the recipient will be really happy. So have fun, enjoy and spread smiles.

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