LAVENDER PINEAPPLE BABY DRESS
My cup overfloweth (of cute baby dresses ;) )..
and here’s another order fulfilled.. A client saw my first red baby dress put
up just a few days ago and said she wanted one “just like that” for a friend’s
first granddaughter. I have just
finished making a white ‘n pink layered baby dress (which she loved too). When I posted my red dress on Facebook,
someone mentioned pineapples and how they looked lovely on baby dresses.. so I
thought I’d add a small pineapple ending to the simple shell and make something
different.
I trolled through Google images and Pinterest
for inspiration, and I found this chart which is “just” what I was thinking of
doing anyway.. now I don’t need to rack my head to get the numbers right. Thank you Google J
The chart I found has this project made. I am going to go in a slightly different
direction with the yoke, playing with the yarn(s) I have in hand, so come along
and let’s see what we are working on today.
As always please read through all
instructions first before you pick up your hook. You can make this dress to
suit any size using any hook and yarn of your choice. My pattern works
on stitch count and round body measurements.
Materials used : Today
I’ve just just under 3 skeins (50 gm each skein) of a really soft unbranded
knitting cotton from Australia ; plus about one ball of our Indian Anchor
knitting cotton for the off white yoked portion , all with a 3.5 mm crochet
hook.
(For the lavender yarn, check details on photo
below)
For Indians : This
lavender yarn is like our Anchor knitting , Red rose or White Rose knitting
cotton. Our lovely Indian Red Rose and
Anchor knitting cotton yarns are a good substitute. I’d also suggest Alize cotton yarn – and you
can get all of this with an easy mouse click on the top right hand side of
this blog (read : Click here to buy yarns Online)
For Non-Indians : This
is just a regular knitting cotton and other international yarns that I have
used in a similar weight/thickness category include Milford soft knitting
cotton , DMC Petra knitting cotton ; Sullivans knitting cotton and Hilaza
Rustica Eclat knitting cotton.
There is no prescribed hook listed for the yarn
I’ve used, but I’d say it would use a 2.5 – 3mm crochet hook. I like the slight stretch a slightly larger
hook affords, and hence my choice of hook
Skill level :
Intermediate to Advanced skill level
Abbreviations used : (Using U.S terminology)
fsc : Foundation single crochet dc
: Double crochet
ch : chain
ch-sp
: chain space
sp : space
rep
: Repeat
sc : Single crochet
Stitches used :
In case you are unhappy with this start, or do
not like it, do continue with the usual ch-2 or ch-3 start. However, all instructions will be given
assuming that you are using the chainless dc start.
Here is a sizing chart for general
neck sizing
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279842061521/
https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279838533503/
How to join
with single crochet : Check the links below :
How to join
with whip stich : Check the links below :
Quick analysis of what we’re going to do here
today. With
this stunningly simple pattern, we’re going to work a raglan like yoke from
the neck down to the chest.
We will then check the stitch count for the
skirt portion of the dress, and work the shell pattern with the lovely
pineapple border to complete this project.
Remember that you need to work a back placket
opening for the child, and I suggest that you keep it open say till the waist
for a younger child. If you are making
this for an older child, and you feel that the neck opening will allow the
dress to slip through without a problem, I’d say you work a few rows back and
forth for the top and then join up and work in rounds. You would, then, not need to work a
placket as you could just attach a hook/eye right at the top.
Part 1 : Front & Back Yoke
Start : with fsc using one the charts given (for the neck sizing)
above depending on the age /size of child you are making this dress for.
As I have you captive here, let
me throw in a few thoughts.
I have been often asked how I
figure out the size using different yarn.
I don’t.. I also do a little bit of trial and error. The charts have been set out and I have found
that the charts that I share here do work (for me) – but what one should
remember is that the age of the child (though important) is not as important as
the size.
So once you get the chest size
(for example) but thanks to the yarn you are using or say the hook size, and
you find that you have not got the length needed - *Do Not Worry* .. this is
where your creativity comes in.. you just continue on till you get the length.
If the chart given for a 0-6m
does not work for your 0-6m child, that is not a worry either.. there
are so many charts on that link.. just work one size up or down to fit your
child.
Sadly, when I am asked a
question about how you can get it to fit, this is all I can say – as I do not
know the size you are looking at /for and even if you do give me those details,
I can only give you ideas – you would have to physically pick up that yarn and
hook and work at it. Experimentation is
a great teacher .. and the creation is a wonderful WOW factor!
So let’s get that hook n yarn
going.. shall we?
From the following row on, we
will be working on different sizes – so here’s what I suggest.
You take a look at the neck
sizing chart , see the number of start stitches you need and first mark out the
stitch for the four corners. (“Cadenas”
= stitches / meses = months / anos = years)
I will now give you
instructions on what you will do from one marker to the next.
I suggest that we work from the
centre back, past the armholes to the front and then around the 2nd
armhole to the centre back again in one continuous row. Remember that you will work side to side only
for as long as you want that back opening.
Row 1 : dc in the 1st fsc and in each fsc till the 1st
marker ;
(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the
same 1st marked stitch ;
*dc in each fsc till the next
marker ; rep (to) in the marked stitch* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
You can now remove the
markers. Our corners are the ch-2 sps
that we have just created. We will work
the next 2-dc sets in that ch-2 sp in each row.
Row 2 : dc in the 1st dc and in each dc till the 1st
ch-2 sp;
(2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the
same 1st ch-2 sp ;
*dc in each fsc till the next
ch-2 sp ; rep (to) in the same ch-2 sp* ;
rep *to* till end. Turn.
Rep Row 2 till you have the
shoulder width / chest width / armhole measurements as per the chart or as per
the child measurements.
Once you have got the above
measurements, we will join the two corners under the armhole to then (a) work
in rounds and (b) increase the length of the yoke till the waist level… or the
level you wish to start the skirt portion from.
So to join the front and back
yoke, you will work all the way in dc till the 1st ch-2 corner sp,
skip all the next stitches till the next ch-2 corner sp and join the
1st and 2nd corner sps. You will then work all the way till the 3rd
ch-2 corner sp and once again join the 3rd and 4th
corner sps. In this way, you have a
front and back along with two armholes created all in one go.
Now after a few rows, you will
need to join up to create an armhole opening.
So back to the same neck chart.
There are two charts per age category.
The 2nd one has cms in it, and that’s the length/width of
that section.
So let’s look at the
charts for 0-6 months (meses).
The chart
shows 7 cm for shoulder width, and 8.5 – 9 cm for length from shoulder to
armhole for the round arm opening.
So
this means that once you have 9 cm from top of (folded) shoulder, you
can join the back and front of your work to get the armhole opening.
For joining, you will use the (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) to join the front and back of yoke.
This means that you will first fold the yoke
down, and work 2 dc in one corner ch-2 sp, skip all the stitches in between and work a ch
2, and 2 dc in the next corner ch-2 sp. This will
create one armhole.
You will then work
down the front of the yoke, and repeat (to) in the next 2 set of corners to
create the next armhole opening.
You will now continue
increasing the front length if desired, till you have the length needed till
the waist before you start the skirt portion.
Once again, you need to decide
how long you want this portion – if you want a nice “hipster” dress (i.e skirt
that comes from the hips ;) ), you can continue working this pattern all the
way till the hips. I have worked till
the waist.
So how long do you work? Easy – once
again, do refer to the charts given above for lengths of skirts as well as
regular lengths of yoke etc and make a creative decision.
Part 2 : Skirt portion of dress
For the skirt we will work in
one piece, so ensure that you join the two parts of the yoke back in the last
row of work, in case you have not joined already.
Our stitch count is multiples
of 12. So when you are ready to
start on your skirt, ensure that you have the stitch count right.
As I have said in my blogs before, depending on how much flare you wish for
your skirt, increase the number of stitches (still keeping the multiples right)
so that you get a better flare.
For this pattern too, I’d
suggest that while you work the pattern, work with the few ideas I’ve written
below.
I would also like to add that
though I have indicated number of row repeats, I would suggest that you
work it your own way with these ideas in mind :
a) Work a few rows and see how many inches you get (in length)
per row – i.e work out your gauge
b) Decide how long you want your skirt part and the whole dress
from shoulder down
c) Working with your gauge, figure out how many rows you can
repeat with the pattern. So say I have
indicated 2 rows per increase, you could work more rows if you are not
getting as much as a length increase as needed
d) With this pattern, as with many of my earlier patterns, I
urge you to be creative and explore the pattern a bit.
May I also suggest that you
start at the back of the dress for a neat finish.
For the skirt portion, we have
a “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same st or ch-sp.
Depending on how much flare you
wish for your skirt, you can either continue with the same “V”-st or work 2
more dc, so your “V”-st could also be (3 dc ; ch 2, 3 dc) all in the same st or
ch-sp. This also means that you can
start with the 1st “V”-st which is (2 dc ; ch 2, 2 dc), and then
change to a “V”-st that has 3 dc in it. However,
as this is only an idea, and not per chart, I will leave this choice to you.
Round 1 : “V”-st in the 1st
dc ;
*ch 1, sk next 3 dc, “V”-st in
the next dc* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 1 and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
From this round on, we will
always be working a “V”-st in the ch-2 sp of the earlier “V”-st.
Rounds 2 - 4 : sl-st into the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st in the same
1st “V”-st ;
*ch 1, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 1, and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 5 : sl-st into the 1st “V”-st , “V”-st in the same
1st “V”-st ;
*ch 2, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st* ;
rep *to* all around ; ch 2, and
join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Now here’s where we will all
need to make a few calculations.
Stop and check the length of your skirt and/or the project from shoulder
down. See how long you wish to make your
dress.
We have a pineapple border that
is a total of 15 rows. So here’s what
you need to do.
You need to see how many inches
you are adding in 15 rows. So let’s
assume 15 rows = 4.5”, and you are working a length of 16”, then you will work
rep of Round 5 till your project (from shoulder) is 11.5” leaving 4.5” that
will be your border. Got it?
So continue working Round 5
till you reach the length you need before the border. We’ll meet back shortly to work the border
pineapple together.
And welcome back.. so let’s now
work on the final few rounds for the pineapple border.
For convenience, I am going to continue
numbering from Round 5, so though you have obviously done a lot more rows,
as they were all the same pattern, I’m going to number the next one as Round
6.
Round 6 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 5, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 7 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 2, 2 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; ch 2, “V”-st in
the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the end ; ch 2,
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 8 - 9 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
*ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; ch 3, “V”-st in the
next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the end ; ch 3
and join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 10 : (dc ; ch 5, dc) in the 1st “V”-st ; ch 4, “V”-st
in the next “V”-st ;
*ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc ; ch
4, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch 4, rep (to) once ; ch 4,
“V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 11 : dc in the 1st dc ; 7 dc in the next ch-5 sp ; dc
in the next dc ;
*ch 4, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ; ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 4, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 4, (dc in the next dc ; 7 dc
in the next ch-5 sp ; dc in the next dc) ;
ch 4, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 12 : dc in the 1st dc ; (ch 1, dc in the next dc) ;
rep (to) 7 times ;
*ch 2, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ; ch 4, dc in the next 2 dc ;
ch 4, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ; ch 2, dc in the next dc ; rep
(to) 8 times* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 13 : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the same
ch-1 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp) ;
rep (to) 6 times ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ; ch 3, dc in the next dc ;
[ch 4, dc in the next dc] ; ch
3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 7 times* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 14 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same
ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 5 times ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
[ch 3, dc in the next dc ; 5 dc
in the next ch-4 sp ; ch 1, dc in the next dc] ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 6 times* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 15 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same
ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp)
rep (to) 4 times ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ; [ch
1, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 5 times* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 16 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same
ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 3 times ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ; [ch
1, dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 4 times* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 17 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same
ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) 2 times ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, dc in the next dc ; [ch 2,
dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 3 times* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 18 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same
ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
rep (to) once ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; [ch
2, 2 dc in the next dc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) 2 times* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 19 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same
ch-3 sp ;
(ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc ; [ch
2, dc in the next 2 dc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Round 20 : sl-st into the 1st ch-3 sp ; sc in the same
ch-3 sp ;
*ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc
in the next dc ;
[ch 2, 2 dc in the next dc ; dc
in the next dc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next
“V”-st ;
ch 3, sc in the next ch-1 sp* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Now we end here at the sc, but
we need to be in the previous “V”-st as we are going to now join the first two
“V”-sts together. So what I have done is
turn my work and work along the back or wrong side and sl-st to get into
the previous “V”-st ; sc in that “V”-st and then turn back again to
face the right side so that we are now working the way we should. Got it?
I am sure there may be an easier way to get this done, but any way that gets
you into the last “V”-st before the end … that’s good as long as it it works
for you J
So get into that ch-sp of the last
“V”-st..
Round 21 : “V”-st in the 1st “V”-st ;
sk next 2 ch-3 sps and sc,
“V”-st in the next “V”-st ;
*ch 3, dc in the next 3 dc ; [ch
2, dc in the next 3 dc] ; rep [to] 5 times ;
ch 3, “V”-st in the next “V”-st
;
sk next 2 ch-3 sps and sc,
“V”-st in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Read Note before you
work this last round.
Last Round 22 : dc 2-tog in the 1st “V”-st ;
dc 2-tog in the next “V”-st ;
*ch 5, dc 3-tog over the next 3
dc ; [ch 6, dc 3-tog over the next 3 dc] ;
rep [to] 5 times ;
ch 5, dc 2-tog in the next
“V”-st ;
sk next 2 ch-3 sps and sc, dc
2-tog in the next “V”-st* ;
rep *to* till the end. Join with a sl-st to the 1st st
Note : You could decide to work a picot in each dc 2-tog and / or
dc 3-tog set.
If you want a nice heavy base
that will hold well, you could decide to take the trouble to run a round of sc
all around (so that will then be Round 23), working 1 sc in each ch, and 1 sc +
picot in every dc 2-tog & 3-tog set as well.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part 3 : Sleeves
For the sleeves, I’m going to
give you two options. I’ve decided to
make them a thin sliver of lavender, but you choose your sleeve.
In both cases, first run a
round of sc all around the armhole edge.
Remember as usual, that you will work one sc in each st, and 2 sc per
horizontal bar of dc. Ensure that you
have an even number of sc when you finish.
Once again, depending on how
puffy and full you want your sleeve, work the distance between your first round
of stitches. The closer you work this 1st
round, the more puffy it will be.. so this means that if you sk 3 sc, you will
get it less puffy , and if you sk just 1 sc, it will be more puffy. Got it?
If you are working the simple
sliver of a sleeve, then we do not want too much of puffiness.
So first let’s see how I’ve
worked the Simple Sliver Sleeve.
Round 1 : (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc)
in the 1st sc ;
*sk next 2 sc, rep (to) in the
next sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
In the following row, we will
work in each “V”-st except the 1st and last “V’-sts.
Row 2 : sl-st past the 1st
“V”-st and into the next ch-1 sp of the next “V”-st ; “V”-st in that same
“V”-st ;
“V”-st in each “V”-st till the
2nd last “V”-st from end.
Turn.
Once again, in the following
row, we will work in each “V”-st except the 1st and last “V’-sts.
Row 3 : Rep Row 2.
Fasten off and weave in
ends. Rep these instructions for the 2nd
sleeve as well.
Puffed Sleeve
.. and now for the puffier
puffed sleeve (which I have not made, but do let me know how this works out –
and of course when you make this, do tag me when you share your creation)
Round 1 : (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc)
in the 1st sc ;
*sk next 2 sc, rep (to) in the
next sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Rounds 2 - 4 : sl-st into the 1st
ch-1 sp ; (2 dc ; ch 1, 2 dc) in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
rep (to) in the next ch-1 sp
and in each ch-1 sp all around ;
and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
In our following decrease row,
we will work an sc in the ch-sp and one sc in the sp between 2 sts, avoiding
all the dc stitches all around.
Round 5 : (Decrease row) : sl-st into the 1st ch-1 sp ; sc in the 1st ch-1 sp ;
*sk the next 2 dc, sc in the sp between the next 2 sts ;
sk the next 2 dc, sc
in the next ch-1 sp*
rep *to* all around ; and join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Note : Check to see if you think the round arm will fit the baby or
will be too loose, and work a further decrease row accordingly.
Round 6 : (Decrease row) : sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ;
*sc 2 tog over the next 2 sc* ;
rep *to* all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Note : Check to see if you think the round arm will fit the baby. If you think this is too tight, then go back
and change the decrease a bit… work a sc 2-tog over every alternate set of
stitches and see if that works for you.
Round 7 : hdc in the 1st
sc and in each sc all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round 8 : hdc in the 1st
hdc and in each hdc all around and join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Fasten off and weave in
ends. Repeat for the 2nd
armhole as well.
Part 4 : Finishing
Run a round of sc all around
the neckline, with contrasting colour, if you have used two colours. Fasten all ends and block as per yarn
instructions.
Part 5 : Accessories
Do also check out this link and for some fun stuff for hair.. and which little girl doesn’t like stuff for hair.. right? ;)
And that’s done.. yet another
project brilliantly executed ! J
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Have a great day and see you soon. J
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