“FOR MY STAR” BABY LOVEY
This is a pretty unusual pattern for a
blanket / lovey - a pattern that works up like a star with the really cute and popular cartoon character.
I have used two different patterns to create
this lovey.
Yet again, one blog from Sweet
Nothings Crochet that leads you to several ideas and patterns.
Come along and let’s work on this exciting project together.
Materials used :Today I’ve used ~ 150gms
of our local Indian Oswal Cashmilon 3-ply acrylic with a 3 mm crochet hook
For Non-Indians :I’d say you can use
any yarn with a suitable hook to make this lovely project.
Skill level : Advanced
Size made : 10” x 10”
Instructions : Using U.S terminology
Get
the free pattern for the really lovely lovey pattern at http://www.sewrella.com/the-cuddliest-crochet-bear-lovey/
With
this project you get the star lovey and a cute cuddly teddy bear pattern.
If you want to make the toy I have, then
carry on reading my blog.
For now, go off to the link above and let’s make our lovey.
If you decide you want a larger lovey, just go ahead and work more rounds.
Have fun.. create and spread smiles
Donald duck
For
this lovey stuff toy, I’ve decided to make the head n arms of my all-time favourite character Donald Duck.
I
found this free pattern, which is not in English – and this is what I have done
with it.
Do
feel free to get the whole pattern at https://cb4fcf87-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/amigurumies/patrones/babydonald.pdf
Part 1 : Head
Let’s
start with the Head, using white yarn.
Start Round 1 : with a magic circle and 6 sc in that
circle.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6)
Round 2 :
2 sc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(12)
Round 3 :
sc in the 1st sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18)
Round 4 :
sc in the 1st 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Round 5 :
sc in the 1st 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30)
Round 6 :
sc in the 1st 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36)
Round 7 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(36)
Round 8 :
sc in the 1st 5 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 5 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42)
Round 9 :
sc in the 1st 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48)
Round 10 :
sc in the 1st 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(54)
Round 11 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54)
Round 12 :
sc in the 1st 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60)
Round 13 :
sc in the 1st 9 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 9 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (66)
Rounds 14 - 23 : sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (66)
From
the following round, we will work our decreases using a sc 2-tog. Please check the top of this blog for a “how
to” if needed.
Round 24 :
sc in the 1st 9 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 9 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60)
Round 25 :
sc in the 1st 8 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 8 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54)
Round 26 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54)
Round 27 :
sc in the 1st 7 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 7 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48)
Round 28 :
sc in the 1st 6 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 6 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42)
Round 29 :
sc in the 1st 5 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 5 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36)
Round 30 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36)
Round 31 :
sc in the 1st 4 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 4 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30)
Round 32 :
sc in the 1st 3 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 3 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Part 2 : Beak
Using orange yarn
The
beak is divided into four parts – one upper beak portion, one lower beak
portion and two side portions to give the “smile” to the beak.
Lower beak portion
For
the beak, may I suggest that you start with fsc as we will work down the chain,
and then turn around and work under the chain as well. The fsc will give you lesser holes and a
neater finish.
Start Row 1 : with 11 ch or 10 fsc. Turn.
If
you have started with ch 11, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd
ch from hk.
If
you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.
Row / Round 2 : sc in
the 1st 9 fsc ; 3 sc in the next fsc ;
Turn and work
along the bottom of the fsc ;
sc
in the next 9 fsc ; 3 fsc in the next fsc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
From
now on, we will work in rounds.
Round 3 :
sc in the 1st 10 sc ; 2 sc in
the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the next 10 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)
Round 4 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)
In
the following round, we will decrease, using the sc 2-tog again.
Round 5 :
sc in the 1st 10 sc ; (sc
2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep
(to) once ;
sc
in the next 10 fsc ; rep (to) 2 times.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Fasten
off leaving a tail for attachment. Fold
in half (across the start fsc row) and join the gaping ends.
Upper beak portion
Once
again, I urge you to start with fsc as we will work down the chain, and then
turn around and work under the chain as well.
Start Row 1 : with 9 ch or 8 fsc. Turn.
If
you have started with ch 9, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd
ch from hk.
If
you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.
Row / Round 2 : sc in
the 1st 7 fsc ; 3 sc in the next fsc ;
Turn and work
along the bottom of the fsc ;
sc
in the next 7 fsc ; 3 fsc in the next fsc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (20)
From
now on, we will work in rounds.
Round 3 :
sc in the 1st 8 sc ; 2 sc in
the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the next 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Round 4 :
sc in the 1st 10 sc ; 2 sc in
the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the next 10 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)
Round 5 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)
In
the following round, we will decrease, using the sc 2-tog again.
Round 6 :
sc in the 1st 10 sc ; (sc
2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep
(to) once ;
sc
in the next 10 fsc ; rep (to) 2 times.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
In
the following row, we will work a set of 6 sts in the centre of the lip
that will form a small bump. In case
your stitches do not align and you are not able to get this bump in the centre
of the lip, please adjust as needed. It
does not matter which side has these 6 stitches – whichever side you
work it on becomes the upper lip. Easy
enough, right?
Round 7 :
sc in the 1st 14 sc ; hdc in
the next sc ;
dc
in the next 4 sc ; hdc in the next sc ; sc in the last 4 sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Fasten
off and leave a long tail for attachment.
The
side you have worked the last set of “different” stitches will form a small
bump which will be the top of the beak.
Side portions
Make two
We
will work on two extensions at the side of the beak – we will attach it to the
top part of the beak that we have just made.
For
this, find and place a marker for the side of the beak.
Where
do you place marker? This is where we get creative ;)
The
bump marks the centre top – so if you find the point that is at the side of the
beak and evenly space away from the centre bump, you’re about right J
Start Row 1 : Re-attach your yarn at one of the markers. 2 sc in that marker ; 2 sc in the next st.
Turn. (4)
Rows 2 - 9 : sc in all 4 sc.
Turn. (4)
Once
again we will use the sc 2-tog to decrease.
Row 10 :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.
(2)
Fasten
off leaving a tail for attachment.
Repeat
all these instructions for the other side of the beak as well.
Beak attachment :
We
have two parts for the beak – the top with the 2 side extensions and the
bottom.
a) Fold the
side extensions and attach to form a roll
b) Fold the top
and bottom parts of the beak (along the start fsc row), and together
c) Sew a little
along the sides of the beak to reduce the gaping hole of the beak and give it a
little more of a definite duck beak shape.
Part 3 : Eyebrows
Using white
Start Row 1 : with 9 ch or 8 fsc. Turn.
If
you have started with ch 9, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd
ch from hk.
If
you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.
Row 2 :
sc in the 1st 3 fsc ; 2 sc in
the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ; 3 sc in the last 3 fsc. Turn. (10)
Row 3 :
sc in the all 10 sc. Turn. (10)
Row 4 :
sc in the 1st 3 sc ; (sc
2-tog over the next 2 sc) ; rep (to) once ; sc in the last 3 sc. Turn. (8)
Fasten
off and leave a tail for attachment
Repeat
instructions for the 2nd eyebrow.
Part 3A : Eyes
Use
blue and black felt to create the eyes and keep them ready for attachment onto
face. I drew the eyes out on paper
first, but then that’s obvious, isn’t it?
Part 4 : Arms
Make two - using white for arms and blue for sleeves
Start Row 1 : (using white) : with 5 ch or 4 fsc. Turn.
If
you have started with ch 5, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd
ch from hk.
If
you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.
Once
again we will work till the end of the fsc row, and then turn and work in the
same stitches from under the row. Got
it?
Row / Round 2 : sc in
the 1st 3 fsc ; 3 sc in the next sc ;
Turn and work
along the bottom of the fsc ;
sc
in the next 3 fsc ;
3
sc in the last 3 fsc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12)
Round 3 :
sc in the 1st 4 sc ; 2 sc in
the next 2 sc ;
(sc
in the next 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc) ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
Round 4 :
sc in the 1st 7 sc ; 2 sc in
the next sc ;
sc
in the next 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the last sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18)
Round 5 :
sc in the 1st sc ; and in
each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18)
Round 6 :
sc in the 1st 7 sc ; sc 2-tog
over the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the next 7 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the last sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
Rounds 7 – 10 : sc in
the 1st sc ; and in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
At
this point, we will attach the blue yarn for the sleeves. Fasten off white yarn.
Round 11 : (Using
blue yarn) : sc in the 1st sc
in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
Now
for the contrast yellow, we will attach our yellow yarn.
Keep
the blue yarn for the next round.
Round 12 :(Using
yellow yarn) : sc in the 1st
sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
Fasten
off yellow yarn.
Rounds 13 - 19 : (Using blue yarn) : sc in the 1st sc in each sc all
around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
Fasten
off and leave a tail for attachment.
Rep
these instructions for the other arm as well.
Part 5 : Collar
The collar flaps behind the head (back of head) - not seen in photo
Start
(using blue) with 14 fsc or 15 chain.
Keeping the chain flat, join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn.
If
you have started with ch 15, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd
ch from hk.
If
you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.
Row 1 :
sc in the 1st fsc and in each
fsc till end. Turn. (14)
Rows 2 - 5 : sc in
the 1st sc and in each sc till end. Turn. (14)
Rows 6 - 11 : sc in
the 1st 3 sc. Turn. Leave the rest of the sts unworked. (3)
Row 12 :
sc in the 1st sc ; sc 2-tog
over the next 2 sc. Turn. (2)
Row 13 :
sc 2-tog over the 2 sc. Turn. (1)
Fasten off. Weave in ends for this side.
Re-attach yarn at the other end of Row 5, and rep instructions for Rows 6 – 14 for the 2nd side of the collar
We
will now run a round of sc all around using yellow. Fasten off blue yarn and attach yellow yarn.
As
a thumb rule, we will work one sc in each st down the sides, and 3 sc for the
two corners.
Row 14 :
(Using yellow) sc in the 1st12 sts ; 3 sc in the corner st ; sc in
the next 13 sts ; 3 sc in the corner st ; sc in the next 13 sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part 6 : Cap
Start
(using blue) with 7 fsc or 8 chain.
Keeping the chain flat, join with a sl-st to the 1st st. Turn.
If
you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.
Once
again we will work till the end of the fsc row, and then turn and work in the
same stitches from under the row.
Row / Round 1 : sc in
the 1st 6 fsc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
Turn and work
along the bottom of the fsc ;
sc
in the next 6 fsc ;
2
sc in the last fsc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
We
will now work in rounds.
Round 2 :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in
the next 5 sc ;
2
sc in each of the next 3 sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ;
2
sc in each of the next 2 sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (22)
Round 3 :
2 sc in the 1st sc ; sc in
the next 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
(sc
in the next sc ; 2 sc in the next sc);
rep
(to) once ;
sc
in the next 6 sc ;
[2
sc in the next sc ; sc in the next sc] ;
rep
[to] once ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)
Round 4 :
sc in the 1st 2 sc ; 2 sc in
the next sc ;
sc
in the next 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
(sc
in the next 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc);
rep
(to) once ;
sc
in the next 7 sc ;
[2
sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 2 sc] ;
2
sc in the last sc ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (34)
Round 5 : 2
sc in the 1st sc ;
sc
in the next 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
(sc
in the next 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc);
rep
(to) once ;
sc
in the next 8 sc ;
[2
sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 3 sc] ;
rep
[to] once ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (40)
Round 6 : sc
in the 1st sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the next 13 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the next 3 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the next 13 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the last 2 sc ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36)
We
will now work up and down in rows.
Row 7 : sc
in the 1st13 sc. Turn. (13)
Row 8 : sc
2-tog over the 1st2 sc ; sc in the next 9 sc ;
sc
2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn. (11)
Rows 9 - 11 : sc in all the 11 sc. Turn. (11)
Row 12 : sc
2-tog over the 1st2 sc ; sc in the next 7 sc ;
sc
2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn. (9)
Rows 13 - 15 : sc in all the 9 sc. Turn. (9)
Row 16 : sc
2-tog over the 1st2 sc ; sc in the next 5 sc ;
sc
2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn. (7)
Row 17 : sc
in all the 7 sc. Turn. (7)
We
will now work all around the cap and then work in rounds.
Round 18 :
sc in the 1st 2 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 3
sc ;
Now
turn your work and work along the side ;
sc
in the next 12 sts ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sts ;
[sc
in the next 2 sts ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sts] ;
(sc
in the next 3 sts ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sts) ;
rep
(to) 3 times ;
rep
[to] once ;
sc
in the next 12 sts ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Row 19 : sc
in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Row 20 : sc
2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 9 sc ;
(sc
2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 9 sc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Row 21 :
sc in the 1st 4 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
(sc
in the next 8 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep
(to) 4 times ; sc in the last 4 sc
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st
Row 22 : sc
2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 7 sc ;
(sc
2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 7 sc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st
Row 23 :
sc in the 1st2 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
(sc
in the next 2 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep
(to) all around ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st
Row 24 : sc
2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc in the next 8 sc ;
(sc
2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the next 8 sc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st
Row 25 - 26 : sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Part 7 : Amigurumi ball for stuffing :
Instead of stuffing my toys directly with polyfill, I prefer to use a stocking net and stuff the net with the stuffing. I then make a little ball (stitch up both ends of the stocking net) and use these balls for stuffing. You can decide to use several small balls or one large ball for each piece. So just measure out the length of stocking net you'd need by holding the net un-stretched against the feature (say the face). Use a little more than the actual feature as once the net is stuffed, even with its stretch, it needs space for the stuffing.
Then sew in one side of the net and stuff it with your polyfill.
Check that you have as much stuffing as you need, stretching out the net slowly as you fill it up. Once you have a nice neat ball, sew in the second edge as well.
This ball ensures that all the polyfill stays inside and does not peep out through the crochet stitches during washing.
Part 8 : Finishing and assembly
1.
Stuff
the head. I used an amigurumi ball for stuffing.
2.
Attach
on the beak
3.
Sew
on the eyes.
4. Attach the
neck collar to the bottom of the head
5.
Attach
the two arms under the collar
6. Now that
your little Donald Duck head is ready, attach this onto the lovey as desired.
7.
Finally you could attach on a cute bow onto Donald Duck’s collar. If you decide to do this, check my blog on Daisy duck for bow pattern.
Ta da ! One devastatingly cute
I
am sure you enjoyed this! I know I did.
Please remember to
credit the original designer when you share your work, and if you have gained
anything from my blog write up, I’d appreciate a thumbs up credit as well J
Do
come back right here for more freebie patterns
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Have
a great day and see you soon. J
Here are some of my
older creations. Have fun with these
free patterns too
