LATTICED CROCHET TOP
This is a pretty simple pattern and it works up
pretty quickly. I found this chart and
thought that it was a really nice pattern for someone who was just starting out
with crochet to work on.
Just for your information, I have done this same
stitch before as a jacket / bolero pattern too and you can get that free
pattern at https://shyamanivas.blogspot.in/2015/04/full-sleeved-lattice-bolero.html - so you can make a matching set .. of sorts.
Come along then on our journey as we discover
this new pattern together. J
Do check my long Pinterest link for all the free
patterns I’ve written up over the years right at the bottom of this blog.
And inspired by
this photo / chart, here are my pattern notes as I work on my project.
Materials used : Today I’ve
used ~ 150 gms of our lovely Indian Red Rose knitting cotton yarn with a 3.0 mm
crochet hook
To purchase this or
similar yarns, do click on the top right hand side of this blog
(read : Click
here to buy yarns Online)
For Non-Indians : I have used
a regular knitting cotton that technically uses a 2 – 2.5 mm crochet hook
(recommended). I use a larger hook as I
like the extra stretch it affords the end product. Among the international yarns I have used in
this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn.
Size : I have made this for a size S-M (34")
Difficulty level
: Intermediate Skill level.
Stitches used :
fsc : Foundation Single Crochet
: To refresh your skill on the fsc, please view this superb video by Tamara
Kelly at the link http://www.mooglyblog.com/foundation-single-crochet-fdc/
fdc : Foundation Double Crochet
: This is a unique way of starting a project directly with a row of double
crochet stitches. This makes your whole
project neat and even.. in a way that you need to do once, to agree! If you are familiar with fsc, you’ll wonder
why you never used this start before !
Chainless dc start :
Instead of the usual dc row start with ch 2 or ch 3, I’d like to introduce this
lovely new way of starting a dc row. Do take a look at this self explanatory
video at http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/
In case you are unhappy with this
start, do continue with the usual ch 2 or ch 3 start. However, all instructions are given assuming
that you’re using this chainless dc start.
fpdc : Front Post Double Crochet
: Post stitches are stitches worked around the post
of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below –
going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull
yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
yo, hk into sp
between posts of st from row below – going from front of stitch, around st and
into the back of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo
& pull through 2 lps) twice. One
bpdc complete
Here is a sizing chart for general
sizing https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837597366/ and https://in.pinterest.com/pin/470063279837560772/
How to join
with single crochet : Check the links below :
How to join
with whip stich : Check the links below :
Abbreviations used : Using U.S Terminology
fsc : Foundation double crochet ch
: Chain
dc : Double crochet sp(s) : Space(s)
st(s) : Stitch(es) hk
: Hook
lp : Loop(s)
yo
: Yarn Over
sk : Skip
sc
: Single crochet
trc : Triple / treble crochet
fdc : Foundation double crochet
fpdc : Front post double crochet
Instructions : (Using U.S Terminology)
We will start
this pattern from the base of the top – so first you need to decide how long
you want the top, and check out the measurements for that part of the body – so
if you are taking this top all the way down to the waist, you will need to work
half the round waist measure for your starting line – and if you are working it
only till the mid-riff.. yup, you got it.. it’s the half mid-riff measure you
will start with.
Also note
that in patterns like this, you will need to take the largest body measure
for your start count. This means that if
your chest measure is slightly more than the waist measure, that’s the measure
(chest) you will use.
Please
read through the entire pattern sheet before starting to see what you would
like to make as there are many ideas given here, as usual. J
This is
not my pattern – I found this chart and inspiration photograph – and these are
my notes as I work on my pattern.
Part 1 : Front
and Back
We will
work two identical halves for this pattern – so one each for front and
back.
If you
decide you want to make this into a crop top, then I’d suggest you make two
rectangles – one each for the front and back.
The rectangle base will be half the waist/chest measure as indicated
above, and the length (of the rectangle) will be however long you wish your
crop top.
There is
no decrease for armhole (no shaping).
Once done
with your two rectangles, you will attach the shoulders and then the
sides. You will automatically get a
small magyar sleeve of sorts. Run a
round of sc all around the neckline, armhole and base of the top (after you join
the sides) and you will have a neat crop top ready.
May I
suggest that if you are using this pattern to create a crop top, keep it a
little loose, so that it will fashionably fall over the shoulder and look
trendy ;)
If you
want it to be a slightly longer top, you just continue with the pattern a
little more, till you reach the level you wish for this top. Easy enough, right?
Finally for my project, I’ve decided to start with fdc and I have also worked a small fpdc (front post double crochet) border.
As it is a
border, we will work it right at the end – so don’t worry why the fpdc has not
shown up in Row 1.
That said you could start with a fdc row, and then work several rows of fpdc and then bpdc to start. (When you work in rows, one row will be fpdc, and the following row must be in bpdc. Check the top of this blog fora "how to")
If you are starting with the fpdc-bpdc rows, ensure that you keep notes and work the same number of rows for the 2nd side of your top too.
You could also decide to start the pattern right from the start base row, in which case you
can start either with fsc or fdc – the choice of stitch does not matter, as long
as you keep the stitch count and round measurements right.
Start : with fdc in multiples of 6
+ 1 for half the round chest / bust / waist measure. Turn.
Row
1 :
dc in the
1st fdc ; ch 3, sk next fdc, sc in the next 3 fdc ;
*ch 5, sk
next 3 fdc, sc in the next 3 fdc* ;
rep *to*
till the last 2 fdc ; ch 3, sk next fdc, dc in the last fdc. Turn.
For this pattern,
may I suggest that you work the sc into each stitch of the ch-sp and not
around it, like we usually do. This will
just fix the stitch neatly in the centre of the ch-sp, which will make your top
look great. That said, for the pattern,
it does not matter where you work your stitch – i.e into the chain or around
it.
Row
2 :
sc in the
1st dc ;
*ch 3, sk
next sc, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to*
till the last dc ; ch 3, sc in the last dc. Turn.
Row
3 :
sc in the
1st sc ;
*ch 5, sk
next sc, (sc in the next ch-5 sp ; sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-5 sp)*
; rep *to* till the last sc ; ch 5, sc in the last sc. Turn.
Row
4 :
sc in the
1st sc ;
ch 3, sc
in the next ch-5 sp ;
*ch 3, sk
next sc, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to*
till the last sc ; ch 3, sc in the last sc. Turn.
Row
5 :
trc in the
1st sc ;
ch 3, (sc
in the next ch-3 sp ; sc in the next sc ; sc in the next ch-3 sp) ;
*ch 5, sk
next sc, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to*
till the last sc ; ch 3, trc in the last sc
Row
6 :
sc in the
1st trc ;
*ch 3, sk
next sc, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to*
till the last sc ; ch 5, sc in the last trc. Turn.
And that’s
our one pattern repeat complete.
Rep Rows 3
to 6 till you reach the armhole or neckline level, whichever comes first ,
ending with either a Row 3 or 5.
Remember
if you are working a crop top with the straight boat-like neckline, then you
will work two rectangles without any decrease.
Part 2 : Armhole
shaping
In case
you want a slight armhole shaping, here’s what you need to do.
For the
shaping of the armhole, you will first need to decide how deep you want this
opening.
Decrease
Row :
sl-st past
the 1st ch-5 sp, next 3 sc and the next 3 ch (of the next ch-5
sp).
You will
now work the pattern as directed all the way till the 2nd last ch-5
sp from the other end ; till you reach the neckline level.
Part 3 : Square
neckline shaping
At this
point you will need to decide how deep you want your neckline. Once you’ve got that figured, here’s what you
need to do.
Count off
from the centre to the side of the square and place a marker at the side 3-sc
set. Of course you need to decide how
wide you want your neckline
1.
Once you
have both the depth and width figured, count off and place two markers to mark
the two sides of your neckline
2.
You will
now work from one side of your armhole to this side marker and then back
to the armhole.
3.
You will
work all the way from armhole to neckline till you reach the shoulder
4.
Once you
reach the shoulder, fasten off
5.
Re-attach
your yarn at the 2nd marker for the other side of the neckline to
shoulder portion and work all the way from neckline to armhole till you reach
the second shoulder. Fasten off.
You have
successfully completed the front or one side of your top.
Work all
these instructions for the back or other side of your top.
Remember that you may not want the
same depth for the back of your neckline, so you will need to re-work the depth
and width of your back neckline.
IF you
decide to have a completely high neckline, then you will work from armhole to
armhole, side to side all the way to the shoulder.
Part 4 : Sleeve
idea
While I
have not made a sleeve, you could. So
once you have joined the shoulders and sides, you have an armhole.
You can
work in a sleeve with both the rectangle finish as well as the shaped armhole
finish.
If you are
working in a sleeve, ensure that the armhole is slightly loose, so that there
is a little *give* along the top of the sleeve – i.e when you attach on the
sleeve, it should not hurt the wearer when they lift the arm… but then this is
a general rule for all sleeve attachments.
The stitch
count here will be in multiples of 6 and you will work in rounds. You will run a round of sc all around
ensuring you get the stitch count needed.
Round
1 :
sc in the
1st sc ; ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next 3 sc ;
*ch 5, sk
next 3 sc, sc in the next 3 sc* ;
rep *to*
till the last 2 sc ; ch 3, sk next sc, dc in the last sc.
Join with
a sl-st to the 1st st.
Round
2 :
sc in the
1st sc ;
*ch 3, sk
next sc, sc in the next sc ; ch 3, sk next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp* ;
rep *to*
till the last dc ; ch 3, sc in the last sc.
Join with
a sl-st to the 1st st.
Now follow
the pattern using Rows 3 – 6, but working in rounds and joining at the end with
a sl-st everytime.
Rep Rounds
3 to 6 till you reach the sleeve length you desire, ending with either a Row 3
or 5.
For the final
finishing please check ideas in Part 5.
Part 5 : Finishing
Once you
have completed both the front and the back pieces, you will join your two
shoulder bits and then the sides to finish off the top. I suggest that you run a round or two of sc
all around the neckline as well as the armhole / end of sleeve for a neat
finish.
Now if you
decide you want that slight border along the base (and neckline / armhole),
here’s what I have done.
Once I’d
attached both front and back (along sides and shoulders), I worked 2-3 rounds
of fpdc all around the bottom of the top.
As the sides are attached, it worked out neatly and I loved that there
is not attachment that shows for the joining of the sides. Work fpdc for as many rows as you think you
need to get a flat base. Once again,
these rows do not really affect the pattern, so go ahead and create.
If you so
decide, work the same fpdc around the neckline and armhole too.
Fasten off
and weave in all ends. Block as required
per yarn instructions.
Enjoyed this ?? I sure did.. come back right
here for more freebie patterns
If you're visiting me here for the first time,
and have liked the experience, do add me to your mailing list (for your
convenience) , and all my future free patterns will come straight to your mail
box.
I’d appreciate if you could credit my blog (and
link the original pattern link) when you make your own creation. Thanks.
Do also visit me at http://www.craftsy.com/user/2573073/pattern-store?_ct=cx-buvjdql&_ctp=my-pattern-store,manage
And please join me on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Sweet-Nothings-Crochet/248919438644360 for
more patterns.
Have a great day and see you soon. J
Here are some of my older creations.
Have fun with these free patterns too
