BEAUTIFUL FRILLY GIRL BABY LOVEY
I just made a baby lovey for a new born baby
boy, and was asked to make one for a lil girl too. Yet again, I have used two different patterns
to create this lovey.
So once more, one
blog from Sweet Nothings Crochet that leads you to several ideas and patterns.
Do check out the labels on the right hand side of this blog for lots and lots of patterns and ideas.... and then for your convenience, follow me here on Blogger or on Facebook, and all my future posts will come straight to you. Cheers.
Come along and let’s work on this exciting project together.
Materials used :Today I’ve used ~ 150gms
of our local Indian Oswal Cashmilon 3-ply acrylic with a 3 mm crochet hook
For Non-Indians : I’d say you can use
any yarn with a suitable hook to make this lovely project.
Skill level : Advanced
Size made : ~ 10” x 10”
Abbreviations used :
sc
: single crochet rep : Repeat
ch
: chain ch-sp
: chain space
sp
: space
sc
2-tog : Single crochet 2-together
Stitches used :
Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view
this easy video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLuSVyKvoUg
Single crochet 2-together : Sc 2-tog :
Insert
hk into st, yo and pull up a lp (2 lps on hk) ; insert hk into next sc, yo and
pull up a lp (3 lps on hk); yo and draw through all 3 lps. One sc 2-tog complete
Single crochet back loop : sc-blo :
Insert hk into just the back
loop of the stitch and work a single crochet as usual.
Instructions : Using U.S terminology
Get
the free pattern for the cute lovey pattern at https://www.willowyarns.com/product/W00144.do.
With
this project you get the frilly lovey with a cute cuddly Stella the elephant pattern.
If
you want to make the Daisy duck stuff toy in the middle of your lovely like I have, then carry on reading my blog.
For now, go off to the link above and let’s make our lovey. Once you have made the lovey, come back here for the Daisy duck stuff toy.
Daisy duck
For
this lovey, I’ve decided to make the head n arms of a favourite Disney
character Daisy Duck.
I
found this free pattern, which is not in English – and this is what I have done
with it. Do feel free to get the whole
pattern at https://cb4fcf87-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/amigurumies/patrones/babydaisy.pdf
Part 1 : Head
Let’s
start with the Head, using white yarn.
StartRound 1 : with a magic circle and 6 sc in that
circle.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (6)
Round 2 : 2
sc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(12)
Round 3 :
sc in the 1st sc ; 2sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18)
Round 4 :
sc in the 1st 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Round 5 :
sc in the 1st 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30)
Round 6 :
sc in the 1st 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36)
Round 7 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(36)
Round 8 :
sc in the 1st 5 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 5 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42)
Round 9 :
sc in the 1st 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48)
Round 10 :
sc in the 1st 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54)
Round 11 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54)
Round 12 :
sc in the 1st 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60)
Round 13 :
sc in the 1st 9 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 9 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (66)
Rounds 14 - 23 : sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (66)
From
the following round, we will work our decreases using a sc 2-tog. Please check the top of this blog for a “how
to” if needed.
Round 24 :
sc in the 1st 9 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 9 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (60)
Round 25 :
sc in the 1st 8 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 8 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54)
Round 26 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54)
Round 27 :
sc in the 1st7 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 7 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (48)
Round 28 :
sc in the 1st 6 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 6 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42)
Round 29 :
sc in the 1st 5 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 5 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36)
Round 30 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36)
Round 31 :
sc in the 1st 4 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 4 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (30)
Round 32 :
sc in the 1st 3 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 3 sc ; sc 2-tog over the
next 2 sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Part 2 : Beak
Using orange yarn
The
beak is divided into four parts – one upper beak portion, one lower beak
portion and two side portions to give the “smile” to the beak.
Lower beak portion
For
the beak, may I suggest that you start with fsc as we will work down the chain,
and then turn around and work under the chain as well. The fsc will give you lesser holes and a
neater finish.
Start Row 1 : with 11 ch or 10 fsc. Turn.
If
you have started with ch 11, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd
ch from hk.
If
you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.
Row / Round 2 : sc in
the 1st9 fsc ; 3 sc in the next fsc ;
Turn and work
along the bottom of the fsc ;
sc
in the next 9 fsc ; 3 fsc in the next fsc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
From
now on, we will work in rounds.
Round 3 :
sc in the 1st 10 sc ; 2 sc in
the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the next 10 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)
Round 4 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)
In
the following round, we will decrease, using the sc 2-tog again.
Round 5 :
sc in the 1st 10 sc ; (sc
2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep
(to) once ;
sc
in the next 10 fsc ; rep (to) 2 times.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Upper beak portion
Once
again, I urge you to start with fsc as we will work down the chain, and then
turn around and work under the chain as well.
Start Row 1 : with 9 ch or 8 fsc. Turn.
If
you have started with ch 9, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd
ch from hk.
If
you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.
Row / Round 2 : sc in
the 1st 7 fsc ; 3 sc in the next fsc ;
Turn and work
along the bottom of the fsc ;
sc
in the next 7 fsc ; 3 fsc in the next fsc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (20)
From
now on, we will work in rounds.
Round 3 :
sc in the 1st 8 sc ; 2 sc in
the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the next 8 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Round 4 :
sc in the 1st 10 sc ; 2 sc in
the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the next 10 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)
Round 5 :
sc in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)
In
the following round, we will decrease, using the sc 2-tog again.
Round 6 :
sc in the 1st 10 sc ; (sc
2-tog over the next 2 sc) ;
rep
(to) once ;
sc
in the next 10 fsc ; rep (to) 2 times.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Round 7 :
sc in the 1st 14 sc ; hdc in
the next sc ;
dc
in the next 4 sc ; hdc in the next sc ; sc in the last 4 sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (24)
Fasten
off and leave a long tail for attachment.
The
side you have worked the last set of “different” stitches will form a small
bump which will be the top of the beak – as you have probably guessed.
Side portions
Make two
We
will work on two extensions at the side of the beak – we will attach it to the
top part of the beak that we have just made.
For
this, find and place a marker for the side of the beak.
Where
do you place marker? This is where we get creative ;)
The
bump marks the centre top – so if you find the point that is at the side of the
beak and evenly space away from the centre bump, you’re about right J
Start Row 1 :Re-attach your yarn at one of the markers. 2 sc in that marker ; 2 sc in the next st.
Turn. (4)
Rows 2 - 9 : sc in all 4 sc.
Turn. (4)
Once
again we will use the sc 2-tog to decrease.
Row 10 :
sc 2-tog over the 1st 2 sc ; sc 2-tog over the last 2 sc. Turn.
(2)
Fasten
off leaving a tail for attachment.
Repeat
all these instructions for the other side of the beak as well.
Beak attachment :
We
have two parts for the beak – the top with the 2 side extensions and the
bottom.
a) Fold the
side extensions and attach to form a roll
b) Fold the top
and bottom parts of the beak (along the start fsc row), and together
c) Sew a little
along the sides of the beak to reduce the gaping hole of the beak and give it a
little more of a definite duck beak shape.
Part 3 : Eyebrows
Using white
Start Row 1 : with 9 ch or 8 fsc. Turn.
If
you have started with ch 9, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd
ch from hk.
If
you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.
Row / Round 2 : sc in
the 1st 3 fsc ; 2 sc in the next sc ; 3 sc in the last 3 fsc. Turn.
(10)
Row 3 :
sc in the all 10 sc. Turn. (10)
Row 4 :
sc in the 1st 3 sc ; (sc
2-tog over the next 2 sc) ; rep (to) once ; sc in the last 3 sc. Turn. (8)
Fasten
off and leave a tail for attachment
Repeat
instructions for the 2nd eyebrow.
Part 3A : Eyes
Use
blue and black felt to create the eyes and keep them ready for attachment onto
face. I drew the eyes out on paper
first, but then that’s obvious, isn’t it?
Part 4 : Arms
Make two - using white for arms and pink for sleeves
Start Row 1 : with 5 ch or 4 fsc. Turn.
If
you have started with ch 5, you will work your 1st sc in the 2nd
ch from hk.
If
you have started with fsc, follow instructions below.
Once
again we will work till the end of the fsc row, and then turn and work in the
same stitches from under the row. Got
it?
Row / Round 2 : sc in
the 1st 3 fsc ; 3 sc in the next sc ; sc in the next 3 sc ;
3
sc in the last 3 fsc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (12)
Round 3 :
sc in the 1st4 sc ; 2 sc in
the next 2 sc ;
(sc
in the next 4 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc) ;
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
Round 4 :
sc in the 1st7 sc ; 2 sc in
the next sc ;
sc
in the next 7 sc ; 2 sc in the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the last sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18)
Round 5 :
sc in the 1st sc ; and in
each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18)
Round 6 :
sc in the 1st7 sc ; sc 2-tog
over the next 2 sc ;
sc
in the next 7 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ; sc in the last sc.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
Round 7 :
sc in the 1st sc ; and in
each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
Rounds 8 - 10 : sc in
the 1st sc ; and in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
At
this point, we will attach the yarn for the sleeves. I’ve chosen to work a pink set of sleeves.
We
will also work in the back loops of the stitches for this round. Check the top
of this blog for a “how to work a sc-blo”
Round 11 :
sc in the 1st sc ; sc-blo in
the next sc and in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
I
have now changed the pattern a bit. The
original pattern has straight sleeves and I wanted a puffed sleeve – so I am
increasing a few stitches in the following round.
Round 12 :
(Increase round) sc in the 1st
3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (20)
If
you want a puffier sleeve, increase once more, else continue working just on
these 20 stitches.
Round 13 :
(Increase round) sc in the 1st
3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
*sc
in the next 3 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (25)
Rounds 14 - 17 : sc in
the 1st sc and in each sc all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (20 or 25)
We
will now decrease the stitches we’ve just added to get back to just 16 sts.
So
if you have increased twice, you will decrease twice.
Obviously,
if you only worked one row of increase, just one row of decrease will get you
back to 16 sts.
You
need to have a total of 19 rounds for arm.
Round 18 :
(Decrease round) sc in the 1st
3 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 3 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (20)
Round 19 :
(Decrease round) sc in the 1st
3 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2 sc ;
*sc
in the next 3 sc ; sc 2-tog over the next 2sc* ;
rep
*to* all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (16)
Fasten
off and leave a tail for attachment.
Rep
these instructions for the other arm as well.
Part 5 : Neck
Make
one - using white , with pink edging
Start
with 28 fsc or chain. Keeping the chain
flat, join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
If
you are not comfortable with the fsc start, follow Optional Round 1 below
Optional Round 1 : sc
in the 1st ch and in each ch all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (28)
If
you started with fsc, come straight to Round 2.
Round 2 :
sc in the 1st2 sc ; 2 sc in
the next sc ;
(sc
in the next sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (42)
Round 3 : sc
in the 1st 5 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
(sc
in the next 5 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (49)
Round 4 :
sc in the 1st6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
(sc
in the next 6 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (56)
Round 5 :
sc in the 1st2 sc ; dc in the next 3 sc ;
sc
in the next 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next sc ;
(sc
in the next2 sc ; dc in the next 3 sc ; sc in the next 2 sc ; 2 sc in the next
sc) ;
rep
(to) all around.
Join
with a sl-st to the 1st st. (63)
Fasten off and leave a tail for attachment.
Part 6 : Finishing and assembly
1.
Stuff
the head
2.
Attach
on the beak
3.
Sew
on the eyes. For the long lashes, I
applied a little glue onto my black yarn and sewed it under the top of the
eyes. I then neatly attach the eyebrows
on top.
4. Attach the neck
collar to the bottom of the head
5.
Attach
the two arms under the collar
6. Now that
your little Daisy Duck head is ready, attach this onto the lovey as desired.
7.
Finally
attach on a cute bow onto the top of Daisy Duck’s head. You an either use a satin ribbon for this or
work a crochet one as desired.
Crochet bow for Daisy Duck’s head :
For
the bow, all you need to do is work a neat rectangle for the width and length
you think you want your bow.
So say you
want it 4 sts wide and about 16” across (4” for eg), then you start with 4 fsc
and work 16 rows. Once done, fasten off
and weave in ends.
You
then re-attach your yarn in the centre of this rectangle and wind the yarn
round the centre several times to get that centre of the bow. Fasten and secure the centre bit.
You
will then attach this centre bit to the top of the head as desired.
I
am sure you enjoyed this! I know I did.
Please remember to
credit the original designer for the lovey base when you share your work, and if you have made this Daisy duck lovey from my blog write up, I’d appreciate credit as well J
Do
come back right here for more freebie patterns
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Have
a great day and see you soon. J
Here are some of my
older creations. Have fun with these
free patterns too
