Sweet Nothings Crochet: A REALLY CUTE FLOWER CAP

A REALLY CUTE FLOWER CAP

Inspired by a tulip flower, this is a cute little cap that looks like a lovely bouquet of flowers.

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Materials used : Today I’ve some Oswal & Vardhaman acrylic yarns, with a 4 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle ; sewing needle ; fabric glue to seal ends ; crochet stitch markers ; headband ; tic-tac clips ; rubber band ; hair comb or barrette ; beads n more

For Indians : You could use Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well

General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.

You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.

International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.

Skill level : Intermediate

In this pattern, we will be using multiple coloured yarns.

Abbreviations used :

ch : chain ch-sp : chain space

sp : space rep : Repeat

fsc : Foundation single crochet

dc : Double crochet

Stitches used :

Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

Magic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M

What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY

Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;

yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg

Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.

Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA

Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM

Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI

How to add beads : https://youtu.be/EcpgMgBox8I

How to work with beads in crochet : https://youtu.be/yanbAnF_pr0

Instructions using U.S terminology

Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.

Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too

Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.

I was inspired to make these after I tested for the lovely Pat Ford on Ravelry. Find her fantastic patterns at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/doll-tulips-afghan--pillow.

This cap is made from the crown of the head, down to the forehead.

I suggest that you use one MC for the whole cap, with two CC for the flowers – green being the obvious choice for leaves, so this is CC 1 and then your choice of colour for flowers, which is CC 2.

It is also suggested that when working on your hat, always remember to account for the stretch of your yarn, and make your project 1 – 1.5” less than actual circumference needed.

Before we start, let us visualize what we are about to create here.

We will start our little cap from the crown (top) of the head, and work our way down to the forehead.

Please use the link given above for general head sizing or use the actual measurements for the baby you are working for. There is another head sizing calculator given in the instructions - so read through the notes to get a feel of where we're heading.

Remember that the choice of yarn, hook as well as the tension you work with will all make a difference to the stretch of the yarn, so factor that in as well when making your projects.

OK, so once we reach the forehead for our project, (working in plain hdc till now), we will work a brim in post stitches (fpdc or front post stitches), and finally for the grand finale, we will work a border with the beautiful tulip flowers.

The front post stitches give a beautiful feature to the cap, and you could work it for a longer portion than given in the pattern if desired. I would, suggest though, that you keep the top portion all one colour and only work the tulips in one colour and the leaves in green so that they pop up and show their full beauty.

That said, go ahead, be different and create.

Our stitch count here is in multiples of 9

How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno

How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQ

Start : (Using MC) with a magic circle.

9 hdc in the magic circle.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Pull the circle closed lightly. (9 hdc)

Round 1 : 2 hdc in same 1^st st and in each hdc till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (18 hdc)

Round 2 : hdc in 1^st hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;

*hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ;

rep *to* till last hdc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (27 hdc)

Round 3 : hdc in each st till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (27 hdc)

Round 4 : hdc in 1^st 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;

*hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ;

rep *to* till last hdc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (36 hdc)

Round 5 : hdc in each st till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (36 hdc)

Round 6 : hdc in 1^st 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;

*hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ;

rep *to* till last hdc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (45 hdc)

Round 7 : hdc in each st till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (45 hdc)

Round 8 : hdc in 1^st 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;

*hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ;

rep *to* till last hdc.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (54 hdc)

Rounds 9: hdc in each st till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (54 hdc)

This should be about right for a 0 – 6 month old baby.

If you are making this cap for an older child, please continue repeats of Rounds 8 & 9 increasing 9 stitches every alternate round till you are just above the forehead.

Here's a great way to calculate sizing

1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.

2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).

3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.

So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.

There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).

This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.

It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).

So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.

Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.

So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)

Right then, back to the pattern sheet.

For our border section, we will work 5 rounds. So you need to calculate how many inches you will add in 5 hdc rounds, and then work till you are the same number of inches less. What does this mean?

So say you are adding 1” in 5 hdc rounds, and your final length from crown is 6”, you need to work your increases etc till you are 5” from end, and then work your border of 1” to complete. Got it?

Round 10 : hdc in each st till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. Turn (54 dc)

Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.

How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete

View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14

Round 11 : ch 1 (turning ch), fpdc in 1^st hdc, and each hdc till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (54 fpdc)

Round 12 : ch 1, fpdc in 1^st hdc, and each hdc till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (54 fpdc)

Round 13 : ch 1, fpdc in 1^st hdc, and each hdc till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. (54 fpdc)

We will now start on our tulip flowers.

Attach CC1 or colour for leaves, Do not cut the MC.

Round 14 : (Using CC 1, working on right side) :

hdc in the 1^st 8 sts ;

(sc in the next st ; ch 8, sc in same st ;

ch 10, sc in same st ; ch 8, sc in same st) all in same next st ;

*hdc in next 8 sts, rep (to) once* ;

rep *to* all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. Fasten off CC1. Turn.

Round 15 : (Using MC, working on ‘wrong’ side) :

ch 1, (this is behind the leaves set), sk the two ch-8 and one ch-10 sps and

hdc in the 1^st 8 hdc ;

*ch 1, sk the two ch-8 and one ch-10 sps, hdc in the next 8 hdc* ;

rep *to* all around.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st. Turn

In this round, we will attach our ch-8 sps down.

In Round 14, we have worked two ch-8 and one ch-10 sp.

So in this round we will only work on attaching the ch-8 sps, leaving the ch-10 sps for now.

So visualize how we’re working this ‘stitch down’.

There’s a ch-8, then ch-10, then ch-8 sp. You will start on the left hand side of one ch-8 sp, so you will stitch down that left hand side ch-8 sp first, but as you’re working away from it, it will be behind you.

Then you will work hdc along till the next ch-8 sp which is ahead of you, and then you will grab and stitch down that ch-8 sp which is ahead of you and which is the ‘right hand side’ ch-8 sp of the next set. Got it?

In the following round, we will add a few stitches so that we get a little bit of a brim all around.

Please note though that the diagrams above do not show the increased stitches, so use the chart for reference only and not to calculate the stitch count.

So here’s a thought : I have increased about 2 sts between two of our tulip flowers (and I’m working for a 0-6 m size, so this is just right for me). So if you feel you want a larger brim, increase more stitches and see if that works for you if you’re working on a larger sized cap. After all, it’s tweaks like this that get designs made ;)

Remember though that the stitch that we must use for the petal is the one bang behind the ch-10 sp , or the stitch that you placed in the ch-1 sp from Round 15. I would suggest , especially if you are going to play around with the stitch count, then you mark that ch-1 sp now.

Round 16 : (Using MC, working on the right side) :

hdc in the 1^st hdc, hdc through the ch-8 lp just before this hdc ;

*[2 hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next hdc] ;

rep [to] once ;

hdc through the next ch-8 lp and in next hdc ;

hdc in next ch-1 sp ; sk ch-10 lp, hdc in next hdc ;

hdc through the next ch-8 lp and in next hdc*;

rep * to* till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Round 17 : (Using MC) :

hdc in the 1^st hdc and each hdc till end.

Join with a sl-st to 1^st st.

Note : You will end right at the centre (ch-1 sp) behind the ch-10 sp.

We will now work with our Contrast colour for the flower petals, so you will attach that in now and we will work all our stitches through the ch-10 sp attaching it to this round (just like we attached our two leaves in Round 16). You will work all 6 dc through the hdc and into the st instructed.

Finally we are going to use both the CC2 Contrast colour, as well as your MC Main colour, so you will carry your unused yarn along. Please check the top of this blog for a “how to” if needed.

Round 18 : (Using CC 2) :

6 dc all in next hdc through the ch-10 lp ;

(change to MC, taking the CC 2 along) sc in the next 8 sts ;

*(Using CC 2) : 6 hdc in the next st, going through the ch-10 lp ;

(Using MC) : sc in the next 8 sts* ;

rep *to* all around till end.

Join with a sl-st to the 1^st st.

Fasten off both MC and CC 2. Weave in ends.

Have fun creating something beautiful and hope the recipient loves it too.

If you have tweaked anything here, do add your notes to the comments, so that we can incorporate it for the next set of visitors who use this pattern… and of course, you will be credited for your input(s). Cheers

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Here are some of my other headwear creations. Have fun with these patterns too

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Here are some of my other headwear creations. Have fun with these patterns too

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2020/04/easy-slim-seeded-headband.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2020/04/easy-slim-crossed-headband.html

https://shyamanivas.blogspot.com/2020/04/easy-cinched-headband.html