Inspired by a tulip flower, this is a cute
little cap that looks like a lovely bouquet of flowers.
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Materials used : Today I’ve some Oswal & Vardhaman acrylic yarns, with a 4 mm crochet hook ; embroidery needle
For Indians : You could use Red rose , 4-ply knitting cotton , or unbranded knitting cotton or White Rose or bamboo knitting cotton , Milk cotton ; Silk yarns ; Baby soft acrylic yarn , Ganga Spectrum as well
General yarn info : The yarn used today is not specific to this pattern.
You can use any yarn with a suitable hook to make this project to any size.
International yarns : Among the international yarns I have used in this thickness, I’d suggest Aunt Lydia Cotton 10, Aunt Lydia Bamboo-Viscose 10, DMC Petra, Sullivans knitting cotton (Australia), Milford Soft, Hilaza Rustica Eclat , Alize cotton yarn and Alize bamboo yarn , Lily Sugar n' Cream cotton yarn, Caron Simply Soft , Bernat Softee chunky.
Skill level : Intermediate
In this pattern, we will be using
multiple coloured yarns.
Abbreviations used : Using U.S terminology
ch : chain ch-sp : chain space
sp : space rep : Repeat
fsc : Foundation single crochet
dc : Double crochet
Stitches used : Using U.S terminology
Starting slip knot : https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw
Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs
Single Crochet : Sc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps. One sc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k
First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M
Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk); [yo, draw through 2 lps] twice. One dc made. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo
Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0
Whipstitch to join : https://youtu.be/wZ-9LNzftMA
Invisible join : https://youtu.be/a6XZQ6VzJFM
Single crochet to join : https://youtu.be/6FXoW_47_dI
How to add beads : https://youtu.be/EcpgMgBox8I
How to work with beads in crochet : https://youtu.be/yanbAnF_pr0
Instructions using U.S terminology
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern. For your convenience there video tutorials through the blog too
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
I was inspired to make these after I tested for the lovely Pat Ford on Ravelry. Find her fantastic patterns here
This cap is made from the crown of the head, down to the forehead.
I suggest that you use one MC for the whole cap, with two CC for the flowers – green being the obvious choice for leaves, so this is CC 1 and then your choice of colour for flowers, which is CC 2.
It is also suggested that when working on your hat, always remember to account for the stretch of your yarn, and make your project 1 – 1.5” less than actual circumference needed.
Before we start, let us visualize what we are
about to create here.
We will start our
little cap from the crown (top) of the head, and work our way down to the
forehead.
Please use the link given
above for general head sizing or use the actual measurements for the baby you
are working for. There is another head sizing calculator given in the instructions - so read through the notes to get a feel of where we're heading.
Remember that the
choice of yarn, hook as well as the tension you work with will all make a
difference to the stretch of the yarn, so factor that in as well when making your
projects.
OK, so once we reach the forehead for our project,
(working in plain hdc till now), we will work a brim in post stitches (fpdc or
front post stitches), and finally for the grand finale, we will work a border
with the beautiful tulip flowers.
The front post stitches give a beautiful feature
to the cap, and you could work it for a longer portion than given in the
pattern if desired. I would, suggest
though, that you keep the top portion all one colour and only work the tulips
in one colour and the leaves in green so that they pop up and show their full
beauty.
That said, go ahead, be different and create.
Our stitch count here is in multiples of 9
How to change colors seamlessly : https://youtu.be/fRzSBja9jno
How to carry your yarn when using two colors : https://youtu.be/NuascBU3pxQMagic circle : https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro
Half Double Crochet : Hdc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk) ;
yo, draw through all 3 lps. One hdc made.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/sDiELJdB2Dg
Chainless start for Half Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 start, and this is what I do to start my row of hdc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/lWXpl1KdbZ8
What is a slip stitch : https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw
Start : (Using MC)
with a magic circle.
9 hdc in the magic
circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
Pull the circle closed lightly. (9 hdc)
Round 1 : 2 hdc in same 1st
st and in each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (18
hdc)
Round 2 : hdc
in 1st hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;
*hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ;
rep *to*
till last hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (27
hdc)
Round 3 : hdc
in each st till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (27
hdc)
Round 4 : hdc in 1st
2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;
*hdc in next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ;
rep *to* till last hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(36 hdc)
Round 5 : hdc
in each st till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (36
hdc)
Round 6 : hdc
in 1st 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;
*hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ;
rep *to* till last hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(45 hdc)
Round 7 : hdc
in each st till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (45
hdc)
Round 8 : hdc
in 1st 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc ;
*hdc in next 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc* ;
rep *to* till last hdc.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st.
(54 hdc)
Rounds 9: hdc
in each st till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54
hdc)
This should be about right for a 0 – 6 month old
baby.
If you are making this cap for an
older child, please continue repeats of Rounds 8 & 9 increasing 9 stitches
every alternate round till you are just above the forehead.
Here's a great way to calculate sizing
1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.
So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working).
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14).
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.
For our
border section, we will work 5 rounds. So you need to calculate how many inches
you will add in 5 hdc rounds, and then work till you are the same number of
inches less. What does this mean?
So say you
are adding 1” in 5 hdc rounds, and your
final length from crown is 6”, you need to work your increases etc till you are
5” from end, and then work your border of 1” to complete. Got it?
Round 10 : hdc in each
st till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st. Turn (54 dc)
Front Post Double Crochet : fpdc : Post stitches are stitches worked around the post of a stitch of the row below.
How to work the fpdc : yo, hk into sp between posts of st from row below – going from back of stitch, around st and into the front of the st ; yo, pull yarn through the sps (3 lps on hk), (yo & pull through 2 lps) twice. One fpdc complete
View the video at https://youtu.be/9tL5XiqKi14
What is a chain stitch ? https://youtu.be/pXx5ukBjKkY
Round 11 : ch 1
(turning ch), fpdc in 1st hdc, and each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54 fpdc)
Round 12 : ch 1, fpdc
in 1st hdc, and each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54 fpdc)
Round 13 : ch 1, fpdc
in 1st hdc, and each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st st. (54
fpdc)
We will now start on our tulip flowers.
Attach CC1 or colour for leaves, Do not cut
the MC.
Round 14 : (Using CC
1, working on right side) :
hdc in the 1st 8 sts ;
(sc in the
next st ; ch 8, sc in same st ;
ch 10, sc in same st ; ch 8, sc
in same st) all in same next st ;
*hdc in next 8 sts, rep (to) once* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st. Fasten off CC1. Turn.
Round 15 : (Using MC,
working on ‘wrong’ side) :
ch 1, (this is behind the leaves set), sk the
two ch-8 and one ch-10 sps and
hdc in the 1st 8 hdc ;
*ch 1, sk the two ch-8 and one ch-10 sps, hdc in
the next 8 hdc* ;
rep *to* all around.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st. Turn
In this round, we will attach our ch-8 sps
down.
In Round 14, we have worked two ch-8 and one
ch-10 sp.
So in this round we will only
work on attaching the ch-8 sps, leaving the ch-10 sps for now.
So visualize how we’re working this ‘stitch
down’.
There’s a ch-8, then ch-10, then ch-8 sp. You will start on the left hand side of one
ch-8 sp, so you will stitch down that left hand side ch-8 sp first, but as
you’re working away from it, it will be behind you.
Then you will work hdc along till the next ch-8
sp which is ahead of you, and then you will grab and stitch down that ch-8 sp
which is ahead of you and which is the ‘right hand side’ ch-8 sp of the
next set. Got it?
In the following round, we will add a few
stitches so that we get a little bit of a brim all around.
Please note though that the diagrams above do not show the increased stitches, so use the chart for reference only and not to calculate the stitch count.
So here’s a thought : I have increased about 2
sts between two of our tulip flowers (and I’m working for a 0-6 m size, so this
is just right for me). So if you feel
you want a larger brim, increase more stitches and see if that works for you if
you’re working on a larger sized cap.
After all, it’s tweaks like this that get designs made ;)
Remember though that the stitch that we must
use for the petal is the one bang behind the ch-10 sp , or the stitch
that you placed in the ch-1 sp from Round 15. I would suggest , especially if you are going
to play around with the stitch count, then you mark that ch-1 sp now.
Round 16 : (Using MC,
working on the right side) :
hdc in the 1st hdc, hdc through the
ch-8 lp just before this hdc ;
*[2 hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next hdc] ;
rep [to] once ;
hdc through the next ch-8 lp and in next hdc ;
hdc in next ch-1 sp ; sk ch-10 lp, hdc in next
hdc ;
hdc through the next ch-8 lp and in next hdc*;
rep * to* till end.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st
st.
Round 17 : (Using MC)
:
hdc in the 1st hdc and each hdc till end.
Join with a sl-st to 1st st.
Note : You will
end right at the centre (ch-1 sp) behind the ch-10 sp.
We will now work with our Contrast colour for
the flower petals, so you will attach that in now and we will work all our
stitches through the ch-10 sp attaching it to this round (just like we attached
our two leaves in Round 16). You will
work all 6 dc through the hdc and into the st instructed.
Finally we are going to use both the CC2
Contrast colour, as well as your MC Main colour, so you will carry your
unused yarn along. Please check the
top of this blog for a “how to” if needed.
Round
18 :
(Using CC 2) :
6 dc all in next hdc
through the ch-10 lp ;
(change to
MC, taking the CC 2 along) sc in the next 8 sts ;
*(Using CC
2) : 6 hdc in the next st, going through
the ch-10 lp ;
(Using MC)
: sc in the next 8 sts* ;
rep *to* all
around till end.
Join with a sl-st to
the 1st st.
Fasten off both MC and CC 2. Weave in ends.
Have fun creating something beautiful and hope
the recipient loves it too.
If you have tweaked anything here, do add your
notes to the comments, so that we can incorporate it for the next set of
visitors who use this pattern… and of course, you will be credited for your
input(s). Cheers
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Here are some of my other headwear creations. Have fun with these patterns too
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Here are some of my other headwear creations. Have fun with these patterns too
with a matching scarf https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cup-cake-scarf
with a matching cowl https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/teer-cowl
with a matching scarf https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lehar-scarf
with a matching cowl https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tircha-cowl
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