Sunday, 25 September 2016

ONE SKEIN SUPER HAT # 2

free crochet headwear, free crochet cloche pattern, free crochet ladies hat

free crochet headwear, free crochet cloche pattern, free crochet ladies hat
ONE SKEIN SUPER HAT # 2

I just made a poncho for a friend’s mum and thought I would add a small cap  beanie to go along with it.  Coincidentally this pattern was shared on Facebook.  
This link has a neat photo tutorial and these are my notes as I make my own project.
And this was the poncho from yesterday.. so this is the full set


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Stitches used :
Starting slip knot : Here’s how you start with a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/lJcqsVcs8cw 

Starting slip knot 1 or the Sloppy Slip knot : This is a neat new way to start your work without a slip knot.  https://youtu.be/YfC7KmGpifs

What is a chain stitch ? Here is an easy video tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXx5ukBjKkY

What is a slip stitch : Here is a neat video tutorial at https://youtu.be/weB3QNbA8Iw

Magic circle : To refresh your skill, please view this easy video https://youtu.be/ISC39yOqWro

Single Crochet : Sc :
 yo, insert hk into st ; yo (2 lps on hk); yo, draw through both lps.  One sc made.  Check out the video at https://youtu.be/ghACqBpA-3k

First stitch for Single Crochet : This is how I like to start my row of sc. Check out the video at https://youtu.be/6pVYRfsf4_M 

Double Crochet : dc : yo, insert hk into st ; yo (3 lps on hk);
[yo, draw through 2 lps] twice.  One dc made. 
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/xdnjB27zpYo

Chainless start for Double Crochet : I dislike the ch-2 / ch – 3 start, and this is what I do to start my row of dc.
Check out the video at https://youtu.be/wskv3iTjRx0

Abbreviations used :
lp(s) : Loop(s)                  sc : Single crochet
dc : Double crochet         sp : Space                                           
sl-st : Slip stitch               ch : Chain
st(s) : Stitch(es)               hk : Hook
yo : Yarn Over
                                                           
                                   
Instructions : (Using U.S terminology)
Please note that I start all my rows with a ch 1, turning chain for ease.
Please check the top of this blog for easy video tutorials on all stitches used in today's pattern.
Please read through all my notes before you pick up your hook, so you know just where we're heading in our pattern.
In my patterns I work with the principle of stitch count and body measurement.  This means that you need to work the stitch count in pattern, till you get the measurement (length and/or width) that you need for your project. 

free crochet headwear, free crochet cloche pattern, free crochet ladies hat



The link above has a lovely photo tutorial, which is not mine.  I am making my project and writing my notes down here.  You could go straight to this photo tutorial or follow my instructions.  As these photos are already on the link, I am not going to cut paste them here, so please check the link for a visual as you go through my notes.  Thank you.

For head wear, I advise that you make the beret / beanie about an inch smaller than intended, keeping in mind the stretch of your yarn.
Check the head measurement charts at the top of this blog, and read the information below as well before you start working.
1. Hat circumference = measure around the head just above ears and subtract one inch for a nicely fitted finished hat.
2. Crown width = (this is a flat circular top of the hat) you need to divide hat circumference by 3.14 (pi).
3. Hat height = Head circumference / 10 x 4.

So you need to measure circumference of the head (round head measurement) and keep checking the outer circumference of your work.  
There is another trick for measuring circumference (without running your measure tape all around the edge of your circle as you are working). 
This works for a cap that you are working top down, from the crown of the head.
It works by dividing your round head measure by pi (3.14). 
So say your head measurement is 22, divide 22 by 3.14 = 7.  
Remember when calculating diameter, you must account for the stretch of your yarn too.
So once the ‘flat portion’ for the crown (or the first few rounds while you are still increasing) of your cap is 7” diameter, you can stop increases and start increasing just the length (without increasing stitches for the round)
Right then, back to the pattern sheet.

Edited to add : I have completed my project and while I love how it’s turned out, I feel it will be far better to make it in cotton.  So either acrylic does not allow the brim to stand out like the original OR you need to make a longer start fsc chain.  I love the beanie I’ve made though, as does my client.

Materials usedToday I’ve used about 90 gms of our Indian Vardhaman Millennium acrylic with a 4 mm crochet hook

Difficulty level : Easy to Intermediate Skill level. 

We start our hat from the crown of the head and work towards the forehead.  We will work increases every row till we have a diameter that just fits the top of the head (for the person that this cap/hat is intended for).  

This pattern does not have specific sizings.  You will work it depending on whomever you are making it for and working the rounds accordingly.

This pattern, therefore, can be made for any head size

All you need to do is work the increases till the diameter fits the top of the head and then you stop increases and work all the way down till your project reaches the length needed.

For general usage, check the Hat Sizing Chart as a reference given above.  

Part 1 : Crown to forehead

free crochet headwear, free crochet cloche pattern, free crochet ladies hat

free crochet headwear, free crochet cloche pattern, free crochet ladies hat
See what a difference time of day and background make to a project - same project, different lighting!

Start : with a magic circle and 6 hdc in that circle.
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (6 sts)

Round 1 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (12 sts)

Round 2 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in the next hdc ; 
*2 hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next hdc* ; 
rep *to* till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (18 sts)

Round 3 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in the next 2 hdc ; 
*2 hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next 2 hdc* ; 
rep *to* till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (24 sts)

Round 4 : 2 hdc in the 1st hdc ; hdc in the next 3  hdc ; 
*2 hdc in the next hdc ; hdc in the next  3 hdc* ; 
rep *to* till end. 
Join with a sl-st to the 1st hdc. (30 sts)

So you get what we’re doing here.  We’re increasing 6 sts every round and we will continue this till we have 72 sts.

Rounds 5 - 11 : Rep Round 4, increasing 6 sts every round. (72 sts)

Now remember before you go away to complete these rounds, check to see how wide your diameter is getting and stop when it reaches the size needed. 

Round 12 : hdc in the 1st hdc and in each hdc all around.  (72 sts)

Rep Round 12 for the next 8 cm or till it is the size needed to cover the head till the forehead.

Fasten off and leave a tail for attachment.

So few ideas here yet again – 
As I said before, we can make this to fit any size head, which means little kids heads as well.  
The only differences will be (a) the number of increase repeats you will make to get the crown size (so that first circle that covers the top) ; (b) the number of repeats or cms that you will work to get it to come till the forehead level and (c) the length of the brim.

Once your non-repeat portion is either 8 cm or the length needed, you will then come back here to check out what we’re doing to make that brilliant brim.

Part 2 : Brim



For the brim we will be working a long strip which we will then attach to the cap.  Before we start, decide on how long you want your brim.  Remember that the longer it is, the floppier it will be.  As I said at the start of my blog, my creation did not stand out as much as the original – but I think that is due to the use of acrylic yarn.  If using acrylic, please try to start with a longer fsc chain.  If that works, please do add your comments, along with your start stitch count, so we can help someone else along. Thanks.

So for our brim, we’re working a strip that we will work side to side – depending on how wide you want it.  We will then measure it against the last round of our cap and attach the brim later.

Start : with 8 fsc.  Turn
Note :  See how long 8 fsc is for you with your yarn and tension.  
Add or subtract depending on how long you want your brim.

We will work in back loops only.  You can work in sc or hdc depending on your yarn thickness and the effect you want.  It does not matter which stitch.  So may I suggest you do a few rows and see what looks good for you.

Row 1 : (working in back loops only) : sc or hdc in each st till end.  Turn.

Rep row 1 till you have a long strip that goes around the circumference of your cap.
Quick idea to measure how long you think you’d need to make this strip : After the first few rows up and down the 8 fsc, hold the piece against the brim and see how many stitches you cover.  You know how many stitches you have on that last round, so accordingly you can calculate how many rows you need to make.
So for eg : If your last round of hat has 72 rows, and 4 rows of fsc equal 4 rows along the edge, then you will work 72 rows for your strip and neatly attach it around.  Got it?  Off you go then..

When strip complete, fasten off and leave a tail to attach.

Part 3 : Brim  attachment
Pin the brim lightly around the bottom edge / circumference of the cap.  Using one of the attachment methods given above, attach your brim to the hat.  Then attach the two ends of your brim to complete that round. 
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 4 : Brim strip / band
1.       To cover the attachment of brim and cap, let’s work in a neat little strip.
2.     For this Start with a fsc length that will go around the base of your cap, where you’ve just attached the brim.  Join to the 1st st and make a round.
3.     Now work say 3 rounds of hdc in each st all around to make this a 1 – 1.5” wide round.  Fasten off and leave a tail to attach it to the brim.
4.     Pin this strip / band in place and neatly attach it down. 
5.     Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part 5 : Bow on brim


If you decide to make small bow for the brim, here’s what you do
1.       Start with a 10 fsc.  Turn
2.     Working in back loops only, work an sc or hdc in each st till end.  Turn
3.     Work a total of about 11 or 13 rows till end.  Fasten off and weave in ends.
4.     Find the centre of this little strip.  Using a long strip of yarn and an embroidery needle, pass the thread around the centre bit of this strip to bring it together like a bow.  With the embroidery needle, attach this cute bow to the brim of your cap.  Fasten off and weave in ends. 

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Have a great day and see you soon

Here are some of my other headwear creations.  Have fun with these patterns too



























































































































































































 








 









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